Biohumus

[Pearl]

OK, so I guess the way forward here is to try it and see what happens.  I'll document the grow and see how effective it is.  Thanks peeps. 

[buddy13]

@blackpoolbouncer @botanics i was only kidding dudes

 

tbh I think this is another 1 of natures things that doesn't fit neatly into 1 of our human boxes so will always be see what works for you in your situation and fingers crossed

 

for the record though i have always used it and in quite high amounts and not on just canna and have never seen a plant burned

[Guest icki]

https://thenutrientcompany.com/blogs/horticulture/npk-value-of-everything-organic-database

 

Rock phosphate high in P I presume thats after the worms have done the graft its made available?

Edited August 14, 2020 by icki

[blackpoolbouncer]

2 hours ago, icki said:

https://thenutrientcompany.com/blogs/horticulture/npk-value-of-everything-organic-database

 

Rock phosphate high in P I presume thats after the worms have done the graft its made available?

That's different tackle bud. 

Volcanic/basalt rock dust has an npk of 0-0-0 for the most part. It's natural minerals that it provides. 

 

I may see if I've got a young plant available. I'll pot it up 50/50 with compost in a small pot if I've still got any rock dust kicking about.

 

 

[Pearl]

36 minutes ago, blackpoolbouncer said:

I may see if I've got a young plant available. I'll pot it up 50/50 with compost in a small pot if I've still got any rock dust kicking about.

Is that 50% compost and 50% rock dust?  I'd be interested in seeing how that turns out. 

 

@botanics When your plants suffered from P overfert, were you also feeding bottled nutrients?  It's just that the Biotabs kit I'm planning to use doesn't really require the use of nutrients as such. I mean the tabs themselves contain stuff like feather meal, bone meal, blood etc. but the extras are mainly made up of different types of bacteria and fungi, so any feed should be reasonably slow burning. This makes me think that adding a little dust might not do any harm.  That being said, I'll probably err on the cautious side if I'm adding some to the mix. 

[Guest icki]

53 minutes ago, blackpoolbouncer said:

That's different tackle bud. 

Volcanic/basalt rock dust has an npk of 0-0-0 for the most part. It's natural minerals that it provides. 

 

I may see if I've got a young plant available. I'll pot it up 50/50 with compost in a small pot if I've still got any rock dust kicking about.

 

 

I thought something looked wrong, long day think Im dehydrated best sort that out..

[blackpoolbouncer]

10 hours ago, Pearl said:

Is that 50% compost and 50% rock dust?  I'd be interested in seeing how that turns out. 

Yes. It should equate to a similar or weaker concentration of rock dust than the highly fertile soil you see farmers growing lots of stuff in around the perimeter of volcanos...........without burning those plants lol. 

Honestly. Just Google "volcano farming" or "volcanic soil" and look at what they grow in the surrounding land of volcanos.

I find it quite funny I'm having this discussion about something that is basically an inert medium with an npk that's not even high enough to register or be classed as a fertiliser in all major elements burning plants.

 

There is more bioavailabe nutrients(including P) in a bottle of mineral water to burn plants than in basalt rock dust. 

 

Rock phosphate, however is highly likely to burn your plants with Phosphorous if you don't know what your doing. It has an npk of around 0-30-0 

 

Again though. They are two different things. One is a phosphoric fertiliser, a strong one at that that is immediately bioavailabe. The other is for remineralising soil slowly over a long period, years.

 

Edited August 15, 2020 by blackpoolbouncer

[botanics]

16 hours ago, Pearl said:

Is that 50% compost and 50% rock dust?  I'd be interested in seeing how that turns out. 

 

@botanics When your plants suffered from P overfert, were you also feeding bottled nutrients?  It's just that the Biotabs kit I'm planning to use doesn't really require the use of nutrients as such. I mean the tabs themselves contain stuff like feather meal, bone meal, blood etc. but the extras are mainly made up of different types of bacteria and fungi, so any feed should be reasonably slow burning. This makes me think that adding a little dust might not do any harm.  That being said, I'll probably err on the cautious side if I'm adding some to the mix. 

 

I wasn't mate no, however you're right to think along the lines, I'd say  

 

What I discovered after reading around was that it's all to do with the miccos and how they operate (so technically it's not the rock dust causing it, it's the relationship between the dust and the miccos).  Apparently they are extremely effective at making P available and the rock dust just helps them do it a whole lot better.  Naturally however, they don't favour too high levels of it being already available and this is perhaps a clue as to why I ended up in some P burning on a couple of occasions when using it.    

 

All speculation without proper science of course and I don't know much regarding mycology unfortunately but my plants go into compost (currently with a JI mix) and compost is not soil so the behavioural characteristics are different.  The reasons I've experienced what I have is not down to the rockdust alone and more to do with the relationship between the miccos and Phosphorus  already available within the compost.  Perhaps they just go into overdrive when there's lots of rock dust about and is a potential factor with my experience of P burn if I've been too heavy handed with it   

 

  

[Pearl]

2 minutes ago, botanics said:

Apparently they are extremely effective at making P available and the rock dust just helps them do it a whole lot better.

Yes, makes perfect sense. So to that end, I guess I'll go easy on the guano then?  Thanks for the reply.

[InTheSystem]

Agree with @blackpoolbouncer - use it heavily as slow release of trace minerals in the soil and also apply as a foliar and wash the leaves off next day. Can contain minor (I mean minor) amounts of mag, soluble potash, iron, sodium and phosphoric acid but will never burn your plants. Rock dust is also inorganic, but since the microbes consume the fine dust without any worries - they will discharge it bio-available.  

[Guest icki]

On 14/08/2020 at 1:38 PM, botanics said:

 

Nothing to sort out mate.  Rock dust adds mineral content and when used in combination with miccos it is very effective for providing good strong root systems.  However too much of it and you get P burn, is my experience.

 

I've done some reading around on the topic and it's all very interesting stuff that we know little about really.  Thus I do my thing and learn accordingly, others do theirs and that's up to them  

Im sure ive put 8 litres rock dust in around 72 litre mix....Last run was sweet tbf.

 

 

Edited August 17, 2020 by icki

[Guest icki]

Sorry my bad need to correct above statement it was 4 litres for the above mix.

 

8 litres of Bio Char dont hold me to that.

 

Which is 2 years old been in out doors used as an ash tray, back door wedge on a trolley.Performing well again indoor just add RO water.

 

No cover crop either might regret that.

Edited August 22, 2020 by icki

[buddy13]

13 hours ago, icki said:

Which is 2 years old been in out doors used as an ash tray, back door wedge on a trolley.