Ph and Ec. First time with coco.

[DreamCatcher]

On 7/16/2020 at 7:55 PM, Green_bhoy said:

uS/cm.

 

That is not a "u", that is the greek M "μ" and it means "micro"siemens/centimeter μS/cm  

You will need to very gradually rise up to 1.2ec (or 1200 on a digital screen like yours) during the first vegetating stage, and then slowly ramp it up as and when the plant tells you it needs it. I myself am feeding my plant at 2.3(2300)EC at the end of 4th week of flower(ive been vegging my plant for 10 weeks thats 14 weeks all together)
Sometimes the manufacturers of nutrients make recommendations that are too strong for the plants, so always measure and adjust accordingly, what i did was put all nutrients in a litre, and if the EC was too high i just added more fresh water until i got to the desired EC.
Keep your PH between 5.7 and 6.1, certain minerals dont get absorbed by the plant if the PH is not in that "safe zone". Remember that the PH down liquids will also increase your EC, so you will have to be extra careful.

DO NOT feed the seedlings , wait until the first set of true serrated leaves appear, which is the second set of leaves you will see, the first being the cotyledons. And yes that is an okay number to go for to begin with. If your water is too hard, buy bottles of "Spring water" it usually contains 40.1mg of calcium and 25mg of magnesium and little bicarbonates and no chlorine, If you are using Mycorrhizae make sure you dont kill them with chlorine. Buying "Spring water" will make the need of calmag redundant (at least it has done for me) but make sure its not "Still water", that contains more bicarbonates and chlorides and about 11.5mg of calcium and 5.6mg of magnesium which is way less than the other one. Gave me early problems with calmag and since switching to Spring water i never had to think about it.

Edited July 17, 2020 by DreamCatcher

[Green_bhoy]

11 hours ago, DreamCatcher said:

That is not a "u", that is the greek M "μ" and it means "micro"siemens/centimeter μS/cm  

You will need to very gradually rise up to 1.2ec (or 1200 on a digital screen like yours) during the first vegetating stage, and then slowly ramp it up as and when the plant tells you it needs it. I myself am feeding my plant at 2.3(2300)EC at the end of 4th week of flower(ive been vegging my plant for 10 weeks thats 14 weeks all together)
Sometimes the manufacturers of nutrients make recommendations that are too strong for the plants, so always measure and adjust accordingly, what i did was put all nutrients in a litre, and if the EC was too high i just added more fresh water until i got to the desired EC.
Keep your PH between 5.7 and 6.1, certain minerals dont get absorbed by the plant if the PH is not in that "safe zone". Remember that the PH down liquids will also increase your EC, so you will have to be extra careful.

DO NOT feed the seedlings , wait until the first set of true serrated leaves appear, which is the second set of leaves you will see, the first being the cotyledons. And yes that is an okay number to go for to begin with. If your water is too hard, buy bottles of "Spring water" it usually contains 40.1mg of calcium and 25mg of magnesium and little bicarbonates and no chlorine, If you are using Mycorrhizae make sure you dont kill them with chlorine. Buying "Spring water" will make the need of calmag redundant (at least it has done for me) but make sure its not "Still water", that contains more bicarbonates and chlorides and about 11.5mg of calcium and 5.6mg of magnesium which is way less than the other one. Gave me early problems with calmag and since switching to Spring water i never had to think about it.

Thanks for the reply dreamcatcher.

 

I didnt know how to put in the micro symbol, so I used the u instead.

 

I'm in soft water area. I'll not give seedlings anything until the first true leaves appear.

 

Thanks again