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the wac6 has a digital version of a transformer called a Triac inside & its this which is responsible for the fan hum, triacs doesn't effect every fan & its a bit hit or miss,

as for the wac1 controller, thats got a real transformer inside it which means you wont get any fan hum at all, tho you have to be careful when pairing up with a fan

as the wac1 can only supply 75w.

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2 hours ago, Joint hogger said:

the wac6 has a digital version of a transformer called a Triac inside & its this which is responsible for the fan hum, triacs doesn't effect every fan & its a bit hit or miss,

as for the wac1 controller, thats got a real transformer inside it which means you wont get any fan hum at all, tho you have to be careful when pairing up with a fan

as the wac1 can only supply 75w.

Thanks joint hogger, explains alot! The 75w limit is what made me try the wac6 in the first place, just incase anyone is wondering, it hums with a 8inch rhino ran :rolleyes:

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Hi folks, first post here after much lurking.

 

Can the Wac1 controller be used with a mixed flow fan, or will the flow switch on the fan conflict with the controller?

 

I am running a 4" highpro TT on its low setting,(21W) but would like to dial it down a bit. Any help gratefully received.

https://www.grow-world.co.uk/highpro-tt-extraction-fan

Edited by jonny00799
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Thanks Joint Hogger.

 

The Wac1 arrived today and I have wired it up without any issues. The question I now have is whether or not it is OK to run with the fans high and low settings. In the fans high switch position I have 5 speeds available via the wac1, then in the fans low setting, I have a further 5 slightly different steps.

 

Fan=high + wac= 2 is about the same as fan=low + wac=4. Is either on preferable or unsafe?

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Have the fan set on the highest setting before you use the wac1, then you should try the fan on the different settings starting from 5 going down to 1,

tho just to point out, setting on is only 32w of the power draw & it can be too low for some fans to turn, so if the fan doesn't turn have setting two as the lowest

as that supplies a bit more juice at about 40w & should be enough power to run the fan.

 

did you wire up the fan direct into the wac1 or did you use a trailing socket ?

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Do you need to wire a socket on the other side or can you wire the fan straight into the controller then use a plug with a 5A fuse from the wall to the controller ? 

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10 hours ago, Joint hogger said:

Have the fan set on the highest setting before you use the wac1, then you should try the fan on the different settings starting from 5 going down to 1,

tho just to point out, setting on is only 32w of the power draw & it can be too low for some fans to turn, so if the fan doesn't turn have setting two as the lowest

as that supplies a bit more juice at about 40w & should be enough power to run the fan.

 

did you wire up the fan direct into the wac1 or did you use a trailing socket ?

Basically yes, I wired the fan side of the Wac1 into a spare single socket face plate mounted in a surface fixed backbox. The fan then plugs into that. The supply side of the Wac1 is wired to a normal plug on a length of 3 core flex and plugged into a mains wall socket.

 

The reason I wanted to dial down the fan is that I am using a Migro 100 LED and heat output is low. High fan speeds meant my room temps were struggling to get over 20.C. This has definetly helped.

 

Thanks for the help.

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5 hours ago, Jay1601 said:

Do you need to wire a socket on the other side or can you wire the fan straight into the controller then use a plug with a 5A fuse from the wall to the controller ? 

 

No you dont but I find it makes it a bit easier in the long run & it helps having the added protection of a 1A fuse in the fans power cable incase there's ever a problem.

 

normally when someone asks about building the wac1's, I normally suggest its easier to but a 1m or a 2m single/twin gang extension cable & simply cut it in half then wire

both ends of the cable into the wac1 itself, it saves you the hassle of buying bits individually to add a trailing socket to the wac1.

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1 hour ago, Joint hogger said:

I normally suggest its easier to but a 1m or a 2m single/twin gang extension cable & simply cut it in half then wire

both ends of the cable into the wac1 itself, it saves you the hassle of buying bits individually to add a trailing socket to the wac1.

 

Which is exactly what I did to wire mine, which now works fine. Thanks JH:thumsup:

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Thanks @Joint hogger 

 

I got a lot of electrical stuff laying around, 2 core, 3 core, sockets, ect... 
 

Will take your advice and add another socket, was trying to find a way to keep the wiring tidy, as all my wires are cable clipped to the wall was just going to add the controller into the existing fan cable 

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On 5/6/2020 at 1:08 PM, Joint hogger said:

 

No you dont but I find it makes it a bit easier in the long run & it helps having the added protection of a 1A fuse in the fans power cable incase there's ever a problem.

 

normally when someone asks about building the wac1's, I normally suggest its easier to but a 1m or a 2m single/twin gang extension cable & simply cut it in half then wire

both ends of the cable into the wac1 itself, it saves you the hassle of buying bits individually to add a trailing socket to the wac1.

 

I just did my second fan in flowering room with help from@Joint hogger 

All wiring hidden and safe, with controller in easy to get to place.

Brilliant stuff!!

Just saying!!

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  • 1 month later...

Hello all,

I have a question. is it possible to wire one of these wac1 controllers up to a honeywell thermostat? So when the temperature rises the fan will change to full speed. Thankyou

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@Gardener173 No, not without completely reconfiguring it. I'm pretty sure the wac1 has a manual slider for changing the speed, you need to have electronic switching if you want it to do that automatically. Theres better solutions out there.

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3 hours ago, argosthewizard said:

@Gardener173 No, not without completely reconfiguring it. I'm pretty sure the wac1 has a manual slider for changing the speed, you need to have electronic switching if you want it to do that automatically. Theres better solutions out there.

after a little bit of searching i found this. got it up and running this evening. 

 

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