recommendations for beginners please

[Guest]

Hi all what dp strain is good for a beginner to go with please?? actic grow with a 600 has n rhino filter thanks 

 

Edited March 8, 2018 by bubbleguppie

[toongrow]

Try night queen or glueberry og both from Dutch passion mate the glueberry og is a lovely smoke and a haven’t tried the night queen yet they have a week to go

[Guest]

1 hour ago, toongrow said:

Try night queen or glueberry og both from Dutch passion mate the glueberry og is a lovely smoke and a haven’t tried the night queen yet they have a week to go

 Thanks toon, was also thinking about in vesting in two 10 ltre air pots i plan on running 1 auto  (dinafem white widow xxl )along side them. with the night queens being photo am i best of starting them in my standard 7.5 ltre pots or just go balls out with the air pots? Also is john immens number good issih soil to be useing thanks

[toongrow]

On 09/03/2018 at 10:37 AM, bubbleguppie said:

 Thanks toon, was also thinking about in vesting in two 10 ltre air pots i plan on running 1 auto  (dinafem white widow xxl )along side them. with the night queens being photo am i best of starting them in my standard 7.5 ltre pots or just go balls out with the air pots? Also is john immens number good issih soil to be useing thanks

Nb mate av never done autos before but am sure you put them straight in the final pots an for the night queens a start with small pots and pot them up each time there is a nice rootball. A think it’s john Inness number 2 mate and am sure it’s got sand in could be wrong a use Mother Earth from my local gardening centre works for me good luck mate

Edited March 13, 2018 by toongrow

[AutoMaster]

Bubbles hi mate;............. if this is your first grow ever ?????

 

And its in your loft correct ????

 

And you have a 600HPS correct ???

 

Then i would guess the height of your canna tent will not be 1.8 to 2m ??? correct ??

 

Then lets just suppose you do have 1.8 meter from floor to top of tent ok.

 

1.8m minus pot height 500mm = 1.3m, minus the light arrangement at 400mm =  900mm growing space. minus growing plant canopy clearance for HPS, say 300mm. That leaves you with 600mm growing space. In those circumstances i would go for a fem, rather than an auto. As a fem can be "Multipley Topped" to improve harvest and keep height within the given space below the hot HPS. To close and you will burn your canopy.

 

Topping a plant is a method of restricting the final height of the plant. Achieved between day 21 of veg, and the 12/12 switch of light pattern into the flowering mode, around day 30-35. To top the plant, just pinch out the centre shoot / shoots of the plant. Above the 3rd internode, and upto 12/12. This shortens the plant, and bushes it out, as energy is redirected into the overall frame of the plant. And not the centre colas only.....

 

A 600HPS in a small tent in a loft. With a standard 400ltr/hr rhino extractor. Will result in a temperature spike during summer weeks, with the sun heating up the un vented loft to 20c, during the day. In the eve at 6pm the HPS fires up, pushing that standing temp up to and above 35c.  Unless you can pump hot air straight out of the loft, separately, that is produced by the sun on roof convection, and the HPS heat.

 

You may find issues with growing ok. Run a 100mm white cheap plastic duct to the top of your roof void (Use an old fishing rod to push it up there) where heat collects, and pump hot air at the ridge space, out of an eves soffit vent with an inline 180m2/hr inline 100mm bathroom extractor fan, on 24/7 28w about 12 quid. take a 240v feed from a cieling rose, if you dont have a socket in loft.

 

To keep heat down during the day and early night period ok. keeping a stable environment, for growing canna, in a hot loft in summer is a right challenge....... but one that can be managed. I dont recommend using a 600w HPS in a confined un-vented roof loft space. As temps in the tent can rise above 35c to 40c all to easily..... even if you run you HPS at night...... the loft will still be very hot from the days summer sun....

 

Therefore i recommend a sativa strain, as they love it at 25 to 35c !!, and responds to topping with gleee..... and dose not mind low relative humidity, another factor of hot dry roof spaces........ you will have a "Central Heating 30ltr" header tank in the loft space somewhere.

 

Use a small water feature pump 500-100ltr/hr. To pump your water to a 25ltr feed bucket, in the loft, you make your feeds up in. That way you aint trundling ltrs of water up a loft ladder, allways a no no with the misses !! You can use the small pump also to turn over the water in your 25ltr feed res bucket, to mix your feeds fast, and set ph easily.

 

Hope that gets your mind in gear over the excess heat issues in a loft grow mate. Personally i would use "Led's" in the loft grow, much safer, and 80% less heat produced from Led, (Summer grow) comp to 600HPS, used in a winter grow, when the heat is handy to have etc. it will be fine to run 2no fems under one 600w HPS, no trouble, you double the harvest for the same dow on lecky....... when topped they form a "Scrog" a heavy yielding method of topping. That restricts height..... which is what we need with your sit rep.

 

600HPS, at the neck end of the bulb (Envelope) runs at 600 to 800c + loft ambient !!........ enough said.... wack a couple of smoke alarms in the loft, and get a 15ltr extinguisher nearby !!  good luck with the grow, if the heat extraction from the loft during the day, lights out summer, and the HPS heat during the night is also pump "Out" of the loft, it can be managed safely.

 

To a great harvest of Power Plant, in it's 20th anniversary year this year, and a great reliable allrounder, with a punch of a smoke..... you cant go wrong, a stable F10+ strain, that can take the heat, in the kitchen, and the topping out, and the nutes to go with it !! Recommended Power Plant sativa F10+ and hardy.   Any Qs, drop into my blog, "20th anniversary power plant", and i'll gladly guide you through it all, to harvest, safely.  Automaster

Edited March 16, 2018 by AutoMaster

[Guest]

@AutoMaster not my first grow but i want one i can sucseed mind you last time i done the pp from dp i managed to get a oz of each one in small pots and with out topping. Alltough i may very well look into it . There is a air in and air out within the loft as well the air out is running through my rhink filter mind. I have 2 meters of ducting for both of these. As well as 4 working plug sockets that where taken from a seperate fuse board. As the itnernet conection and various wites wehere in there all ready we took a feed off there. To a junction box in the room then ran 2 double sockets to each side of the room. I plan to use a 400 watt metal halide in veg and then up the anti to the 600 hps. I ideally am looking at ordering the pp (power plant ) in the enxt week or so i was thinking of topping as you said and then every 3 weeks after so over all veg time will be 2 to 3 month before i switch the light. Current lights on temps are 31 degress with a humidty of 45 I have no idea why i need smoke alarms or fire extingushires the loft is a steady tempo and humidty it has been trialed run. As i say im going wrong some where as ive only ever manged to sucseed well and get 3 oz over all from 4 dps i just dont know where im going wrong

[bearukc]

Glueberry OG

[AutoMaster]

On 17/03/2018 at 1:32 PM, bubbleguppie said:

I have 2 meters of ducting for both of these.

one taking air from "Outside the loft" the other, pumping the hot air out of loft ? as if both 2m pipes remain in loft, the loft will heat up, the hot air is best pumped out of the loft, rather than into it.

On 17/03/2018 at 1:32 PM, bubbleguppie said:

4 working plug sockets that where taken from a seperate fuse board. As the itnernet conection and various wites wehere in there all ready we took a feed off there. To a junction box in the room then ran 2 double sockets to each side of the room.

The 4no single or double sockets, are in a new 2.5mm twin and earth wire in a "Ring" ?? if you have taken 4 sockets of of a radial wire, longer than 15mtrs, it will cause an ac current, which is not good. Hope you run a ring main round the loft both tails running back to a 32amb MCCB RCD new consumer unit 30mahr trips ??

On 17/03/2018 at 1:32 PM, bubbleguppie said:

i was thinking of topping as you said and then every 3 weeks after so over all veg time will be 2 to 3 month before i switch the light. Current lights on temps are 31 degress with a humidty of 45

 3 months veg time ???........ i run a max veg time of 35 days 5 wks. As long veg periods are usually for a mother plant etc....  i run 5wk veg 10wk flowering period 100 days to max harvest. To see what that looks like zip over to me PP aniversary blog to see the outcome.  31-33c is fine for quality sativas they love it AM

 

Re 1oz per plant, two plants topped out in a 1.2m x 1.2m x 1.8m high cab, 3 oz each. you need some gold label special mix 2 bags, and the PP beans fems, pref 5no, or three if you prefer, 5no 5litre pots to hatch em, 2no 20ltr airpots, gold label soil 2 part nute pack and PK booster, Ph down, Ph up,  1 bag of perlite and clingfilm for over the 5no hatch pots if you get 5 pp beans. so we pick the best 2 of 5 to go on to the grow and pot out into the 20ltr airpots with 60cm trays under them 45mm deep for run off capture. ill b back dudes AM

 

 

 

 

[Rufus Brown]

On 17/03/2018 at 3:28 PM, bearukc said:

Glueberry OG

 

I've just finished an auto Glueberry and after 11 days drying , got my first bud in my hand ready to have first vape of it .

 

 

 

[AutoMaster]

On 17/03/2018 at 1:32 PM, bubbleguppie said:

Current lights on temps are 31 degress with a humidty of 45 I have no idea why i need smoke alarms or fire extingushires the loft is a steady tempo

 

The reason it is better to be "Safe" than sorry, is "HPS" 600. As mentioned, When this lamp is correctly cooled, such as in a "Cool Tube"... even then, the neck end of the bulb, temperature is 500-600c. Thats in an ambiunt grow room of 26c. You state above, during the "Winter" test. The temp was 31c.

 

31c as stated, is 5c above normal temps for indica cannabis at 26c. The 31c you state above, is with an outdoor "Night Temp" of 5-7c at the moment feb march, at night, ("Coolest period + economy 7"). So in summer when your outdoor night temp is what 16c ?? Your cab in loft will rocket to 31c plus ambiunt, you will be up in the high 30's Celsius. As you are pumping air into loft from cab, and not "Out Of It".

 

The effect on your "HPS" high presure !..... will be to push its ambiunt up, to a level, where it aint safe to run it. If the neck pops, as is known to do in right excessive heat, (Loft Sited).... then by the time the glass hits the floor it will be 200 ? 300 ? 400c ? it was 500c when it popped. Hit the floor at 300c, that is instant combution temperature.  FIRE EXTINGUISHER, IF YOU CAN GET TO IT FAST ENOUGH !! AFTER THE BATTERY TYPE FIRE ALARM HAS LET YOU KNOW THE SHIT HIT THE FAN WITH HPS.

 

How to solve the risk then. Associated with loft HPS grows ???........ You pump cold summer night air 12-16c, into the cab from outside the loft. And pump out the hot air out of the loft altogether.

 

During 18/6 veg, your lights come on at "6pm" run through night to midday the next day, and go off at midday. That way if during the morning to midday the sun is on roof heating it up, and the air is warmer the closer you get to midday. Then a small temp spike 2-3hrs before lights out, at midday, = 18/6 veg window, during the 5wks veg period, can be expected.

 

So even if your loft temp in loft is above outdoor (Central heating on) night or roof heat day, it wont matter a jot. As you are pumping cool air at night into cab and out of the loft. This will keep cab temp down to around 26-28c. That is a shite load safer than current sit rep.

 

Rig it up this way then, with any luck, your 'Eves" or "Soffit Board" will have 85mm round vents fitted for basic venting. If not, you will have to cut a 100mm hole in soffit and fit a 100mm bathroom extractor vent grille 5 quid each. I take it your duct is 100mm !!. Fit one to the rear of house (Vent Out From Cab), one to front of house (Air Intake Into Cab)........

 

Fit the carbon filter in the roof of the cab, next to it, connect the "Thermostatic 480Ltr/Hr" rhino fan 100mm, set at 26c trigger temp, behind the fan. The out flow ducting from the fan, ducted to the rear soffit vent (The Air Out Flow Vent).

 

The intake duct, taking air from the front soffit grille vent 100mm, at the front of the house, run that into a sock input, (With Draw Strings) in the cab "At The Top" of the cab, as cold air drops into the hot !!

 

This way you are cooling the HPS correctly with low temp night air, and pumping hot air out of loft, so it dose not heat up the loft, therefore the cab temp as well........ !! pushing temps above 36c............. above 32c......... the plant shuts down to prevent "Dehydration"... and growth slows right down, as vapor pressure differential (VPd) is wey to high for normal plant respiration ok. So very important to get right from the off yes. Loft grows demand 100% more environmental control and monitoring with max and min thermometer.

 

Now, if you have a "Combination Boiler" rather than a "Gravity Central Heating System". You will not have a 30ltr heating header tank in the loft, nxt to your 200ltr water tank. But if you do have active water tanks in loft, you wont have to lug up and down feed water, at a rate of 20ltr per 7 days !! You can pump out to a 30 ltr bucket your feed water while in the loft, and make up to the feed. If you dont have a gravity fed heating system or are on storage heaters, you are going to have to hump up the water weekly 30kg's.

 

You begin to see the input for a loft grow..................... Automaster

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[AutoMaster]

On 13/03/2018 at 11:50 AM, toongrow said:

Thanks toon, was also thinking about in vesting in two 10 ltre air pots i plan on running 1 auto  (dinafem white widow xxl )along side them. with the night queens being photo am i best of starting them in my standard 7.5 ltre pots or just go balls out with the air pots? Also is john immens number good issih soil to be useing thanks

 

Bubba mate you probly want 2no 15 0r 20ltr air pots and 60cm trays under. To get best weights. Root ball dictates that weight mate ok.

 

So you can have a read of the Ph of feed. And factors relating to the making up of a feed. As this is your first grow :), there a bit of basics to get your teeth into Bubba mate;... So i have put a few words togeather on the subject, to give you an idea of where to target your reading on the area of Ph (Potenz Of Hydrogen). here a starter Bubba gups;

 

Ph & its effects on nutrient ad-absortion rate, at different temperatures and Ph's An Automaster lecture;

 

First out of the gate; Bubba gups,... pH (Range), at temps between 19c & 35c, affects plant growth and nutrient availability. pH can affect the availability of nutrients. pH can affect the ab-absorption of nutrients by plant roots. pH values above 7.5 cause iron, manganese, copper, zinc and boron ions to be less available to plants. pH values below 6 cause the solubility of phosphoric acid, calcium and magnesium to drop. pH values between 3 and 5 and temperatures above 26 degrees Celsius encourage the development of fungal diseases.

Why pH Varies The ratio in uptake of anions (negatively charged nutrients) and cations (positively charged nutrients) by plants may cause substantial shifts in pH. In general, an excess of cation over anion leads to a decrease in pH, whereas an excess of anion over cation uptake leads to an increase in pH. As nitrogen (an element required in large quantities for healthy plant growth) may be supplied either as a cation (ammonium - NH4+) or an anion (nitrate - NO3), the ratio of these two forms of nitrogen in the nutrient solution can have large effects on both the rate and direction of pH changes with time.

 

This shift in pH can be surprisingly fast. Daylight photosynthesis produces hydrogen ions which can cause the nutrient acidity to increase (lowering the pH). At dusk photosynthesis stops and the plants increase their rate of respiration and this coupled with the respiration of micro organisms and the decomposition of organic matter uses up the hydrogen ions so the acidity of the solution tends to decrease ( pH rises )

Most varieties of vegetables grow at their best in a nutrient solution having a pH between 6.0 and 7.5 and a nutrient temperature between 20 and 22 degrees Celsius

In low light ( overcast days or indoor growing environments) plants take up more potassium and phosphorous from the nutrient solution so the acidity increases (pH drops). In strong intense light (clear sunny days) plants take up more nitrogen from the nutrient solution so the acidity decreases (pH rises). pH can be controlled in two ways.

Extremes in pH can result in precipitation of certain nutrients. For plant roots to be able to absorb nutrients, the nutrients must be dissolved in solution. The process of precipitation (the reverse of dissolving) results in the formation of solids in the nutrient solution, making nutrients unavailable to plants. Not all precipitation settles to the bottom of the tanks, some precipitates occur as very fine suspension invisible to the naked eye. Plants can tell us their problems through leaf symptoms (e.g. iron [Fe] deficiency) when it's too late.

 

Iron (Fe) is one essential plant nutrient whose solubility is affected by pH which is why it is added in a chelated form (or daily), Fe deficiency symptoms occur readily. At pH values over 7, less than 50% of the Fe is available to plants. At pH 8.0, no Fe is left in solution due to iron hydroxide precipitation (Fe(OH)3 - which eventually converts to rust). As long as the pH is kept below 6.5, over 90% of the Fe is available to plants.

 

Varying pH of summer lettuce nutrient solutions also affects the solubility of calcium (Ca) and phosphorus (P). Due to calcium phosphate precipitation (Ca3(PO4)2) the availability of Ca and P decreases at pH values above 6.0. All other nutrients stay in solution and do not precipitate over a wide pH range. Poor water quality could exacerbate any precipitation reactions that may occur. Generally in the pH range 4.0 to 6.0, all nutrients are available to plants. Precipitation reduces Fe, Ca and P availability at pH 6.0 and over .

Adjusting pH The addition of acids or alkalis to nutrient solutions is the most common and practical means to adjust pH, and can be easily automated. There are ways to minimise pH variations and they are worth some consideration. Nitrogen is the essential inorganic nutrient required in the largest quantity by plants. Most plants are able to absorb either nitrate (NO3-) or ammonium (NH4+) or both. NH4+ as the sole source of nitrogen or in excess is deleterious to the growth of many plant species.

 

Some plants yield better when supplied with a mixture of NH4+ (ammonium) and NO3- (nitrate) compared to NO3- alone. A combination of NH4+ and NO3- can be used to buffer against changes in pH. Plants grown in nutrient solution containing only NO3- as the sole nitrogen source tend to increase solution pH, hence the need to add acid. But when approximately 10%-20% of the total nitrogen is supplied as NH4+, the nutrient solution pH is stabilised at pH 5.5.

 

NH4+ ammonium concentration needs to be monitored as it has been shown recently that micro-organisms growing on plant root surfaces can convert the NH4+ to NO3- Nitrate, liquid fertilizer ooh ahh. Since hand-held ion-selective electrodes for measuring both NH4+ and NO3- are now available, it should be possible to accurately monitor and maintain a predetermined NO3-/NH4+ ratio throughout the life of the crop, in soil mediums, sliding probe into the wet medium to take the ballance of power !!.

 

Phosphorus PO4+ is required in large amounts by plants. As is K, magnesium, Interestingly, there are two forms of fertilisers containing both K and P - KH2PO4 mono-potassium phosphate (MKP) and K2HPO4 di-potassium phosphate. Equal quantities of both can be used to maintain the pH at 6.5 to 7.0, in the soil, as a measured pre mix, per 10ltr of soil etc, experiment with it, start at 0.25g a ltr of high drainidge soil etc peat with vermicky in etc... Using a higher proportion of K2HPO4 increases pH. MKP can be used to lower the solution pH. Buffers are solutions which resist pH change and are used to calibrate pH electrodes.

 

Buffers can be added to nutrient solutions in an attempt to maintain pH stability. One such buffer is called 2-(N-morpholino) ethanesulfonic acid - abbreviated to MES. I use the mes, quarter ml ltr, when i have to leave a res tank for 2 days post making it up. Otherwise allways best to feed nutes fresh after making up to correct 6.5Ph. Water temp around 22c not hotter than 24c for summer nute feed.

 

Many of the companies who claim better pH control with their 'specially' formulated nutrient solutions add MES to their mixes. It is important to remember when using MES, that after MES addition the pH is low and needs to be adjusted to your required level with an alkali such as potassium hydroxide (KOH).Is pH Adjustment Critical? pH is not as critical as most hydroponic viticulturists believe. The main point is to avoid extremes in pH ranges. Plants grow on soils with a wide range of pH 5.5 to 7.2 .

 

For most plant species there is an optimum pH in the region of pH 5 to pH 6. Cannabis is essentially erricacious like slightly acidic soils and nutes around 6.5 in culture soils with high drainidge such as peat etc.... with a slight tendancy to be acidic 6.5, special mix a case in point, 6.5Ph on water tests etc.

 

End of lecture bubba gups bruva......... now av a butcher below mate;;;;

 

Automaster.........

Here is a DesFran;.......... 108 days overall, trich pack, propped up with 10mm canes !! very ripe, but the nute chronology & water prep is what led to the weight........ 108 day overall and 68 days in flower after the 12/12 photo trigger light switch from veg at 18/6... from my harvest last week bubba chups mate; Danko;   AM

 

 

Edited March 29, 2018 by AutoMaster

[Guest]

@AutoMaster your knowledge bud blows my mind  ( so vast and with far more exprince then my self ) and im beginning to undersdtand where ive been going wrong on a few places. FFirstly not my first ever grow but ive been fuking up with the yields and haveing a poor run of luck i have both input (for cold air ) and out put. im using about 2 meters of reflective ducting (the tin foil lookings tuff ) on ach end i also have a cool tube to handl As well as investing in some new yo yos. I have found both my 400 mh as well as my 400 hps.  Because im not in the uk but some where near France shipping stuff like pots etc down here is risky including even pips for that matter. 

 

Plus as well with the mortgage and the nipper money is a bit tight right now to be honest.  The ballast i have is a fusion switchable which i have been useing both the intake and outtakes ere professionally done as well as the wireing in the loft, (but i here ya on the fire extinguish front ) ive got some 7.4 litre pots with loads of drilled holes that im using im doing it completely soil

 

After reading your comments and disgusting what your saying  i have a hell of a lot to do to that space so i best start into it as money is tight i was thinking of painting the walls and floor white (saves spending on mylar ).  I can run a fan during the day re desk fan 4 inch while every one is out also to help keep the temps etc. 

As for nutes ive been useing hessi starter pack and getting good soil over here is pricey and also hard to come by i was thinking of useing some of the living tions multi purpose stuff as found john immens just dired up way to quickly yet again thanks for your input on the matter

Bubble

 

Edited March 29, 2018 by bubbleguppie

[AutoMaster]

On 29/03/2018 at 5:54 PM, bubbleguppie said:

as money is tight i was thinking of painting the walls and floor white (saves spending on mylar ).  I can run a fan during the day re desk fan 4 inch while every one is out also to help keep the temps etc. 

 

 Na problem bubbs....... glad to halp with any advice if i can advise you to a better harvest etc, thenglad to help.........

 

Painting walls ??........ sounds like a small back room bubbs yea ??.................. wouldn't bother painting, better to thermal line out the space to retain / reflect heat back into space. And reduce any condensation the other side of space walls etc............ can lead to black mold, not good for chest etc ok..... reflected light for what it's worth, a bit of a waste of time....... metal halide will be 60cm above plants, or a height that gives you 24c at the canopy ok........

 

How big is the space mate ?? 2.5m long 2m wide 2.3m high ???........... and you say cold air in to space from outside, and hot air out professionally done bubbs yea ??.......... 

 

We can do 2no dames under a 400MH/HPs........... but you need 15ltr minimum pots, can you make some up ?? or fill a compo bag with 20ltrs and put it in a tray, under it ??........... then make a few 10mm holes in bag side to let air in etc..??........ root ball size dictates yield bubbs mate, you need 15ltr minimum, better 20ltrs though...................

 

Did you get the jist of the Ph ranges for best outcomes above Bubbs mate ??............... your nutes, have you got Ph down and Ph up bubbs mate ??......... and a Ph and Ec electronic pen water testers mate ??, if moneys tight, and you dont have test kit,............ you will have difficulty setting up feeds and water quality & Ph bubbs mate.   Without god nute and Ph control, is where you might have missed the yield on your last grow if you did not set up water before feeds etc mate ???......... do you have Ph & Ec test pens mate ?? AM

Edited April 3, 2018 by AutoMaster

[Guest]

@automaster

 I may have to nominate you as my guide in this and get it right yes to the space size (its massive ) and also yes to both proffesionaly haveing the wiring done and air in and air out , i ran the 600 hps and it topped at 32.3 last night which is underneeth the 600 wt hps.  

No to the ph range and i do have a huge 20 ltre pot which i customised but never go round to useing and them grow bags sound like a good idea . But yet again which ones do i roll with ??

Also npo to the ph range readings  I do also havr the pens in which you speak but have no idea how to use them (ill use google )  Also thinking of maybe down gradeing to a 400 hps as those temps were just nuts but im off to local building supplies today (wed) and going to get some kingspan etc on the go and se how that maps out ( re the build ).

The ducting goes strauight through  the outside of the walls (kiting the loft was the first thing i did when i bought the house )

Ill be ordering my pips from attitude next week deffos going for dp pp 

My last question for now is do i try and run the hps 600 again with useing a 4 inch extractor as a air in and see how i get on ?? I ask as i need a quiet one that i can run while im a kip. As i dont want any noise issues Many thanks yet again

[AutoMaster]

On 04/04/2018 at 10:43 AM, bubbleguppie said:

I do also havr the pens in which you speak but have no idea how to use them

 

Thats good bubbs mate,........... save anymore costs etc........... i will teach you how to use these to great effect ok.......  you may need to get some Ph 7.0, Ph pen calibration fluid for the Ph pen ok.  is the "Ec Pen", a pen or the bluelab trunchion bubbs mate ??....

 

On 04/04/2018 at 10:43 AM, bubbleguppie said:

them grow bags sound like a good idea . But yet again which ones do i roll with ??

 

To save cost, it is possible to use the two plastic bags that the "Gold Label" special mix 50ltr will arrive in !!! just fill them till you are 60cm above the bottom of the bag ok,   get a pen and puncture holes 15cm apart 3 runs around the middle of the bag ok.  You will need 5no 3 to 5ltr seedling pots, to germ the "Power Plant" fems into. % pots 5 bean pack, 5 pack recomended, as the best 2 seedlings at day 12-15 go forward to the 2no grow bags or pots, if you buy 15ltr pots etc ok.

 

On 04/04/2018 at 10:43 AM, bubbleguppie said:

yes to the space size (its massive ) and also yes to both proffesionaly haveing the wiring done and air in and air out , i ran the 600 hps and it topped at 32.3 last night which is underneeth the 600 wt hps.  

 

Bubbs mate, you say the space is massive, but one 600w HPS is heating to 32c. Is that 32c temp taken at the floor height ? middle height of space ? or at or near the ceiling bubbs ?? or was it taken below the light, 70-80cm below bulb ??Ccan you give me the room size LxWxH bubbs mate please ? so i can figure the thermal dynamic etc........ the air out of room is ducted out near the cieling bubbs ?? sucking out the hot air collecting at ceiling height bubbs ??..........

 

PLANNING YOUR NEEDS;

Lets just say you smoke 2g a day bubbs, a 100 day grow, plus 10 day dry and cure. Your harvest will need to give you in that case 200g dry, or 7oz. I usually hit 2.5 to 3oz per plant, so 6 oz is a smidge short if you smoke 2g a day average bubbs ok.... can you get bye on 168g 6oz over 115 day mate ??.................. if you need one or two oz spare for friends and or the odd binge, you will need to do 3 plants bubbs ok.  That will mean the 600w HPS for defo mate ok............. 2no under 400w is ok, will give 5oz no trouble.

 

Do not buy standard compost bubbs, the Ph is to low ok, and drainage is very poor, unless you add in 30-40% perlite, to improve drainage. In which case, add that cost to compost. Your better off getting sent in by courier the 2no 50ltr gold label special mix bags. If not pos, then a basket and tub peat based light weight compost will have to do, with perlite added to give high drain flow through the medium ok. Important as high flow of "Oxygen" also ok.......... draining water sucks down oxygen into medium.... IMPORTANT

 

Your nutes will have to do, if cost prohibit you buying the gold label A+B soil and PK booster trio, (Prefered) as matched by Ph to the gold label soil (Key).....

 

Ans, Qs above mate............. along we go..............  order the power plant beans "Direct" from dutch passions website bubbs ok...... wont go into why right now ok............... a 5 pack will do the job safe     Automaster