golf.007 Posted May 16, 2017 Share Posted May 16, 2017 Hi mate, I found those secret jarden lodge tents to be a major pain to keep the compartments light proof from each other. I gave up with the inner wall in the end, it's a good idea but in practice as soon as the exhaust fan is running it pulls at it and you get tiny light leeks. In flower i ran a 250hps and a 150hps at the same time with no probs, that's obviously without the wall. also ran a ds60 with a 250hps with no probs for years. good luck with it dude. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iggle Posted May 16, 2017 Author Share Posted May 16, 2017 Thanks, @golf.007. TBH, the only reason I'm going for that particular tent is that it's the only one I could find that will fit between the eaves in our attic. The divider might end up being useful but it also might end up being pulled out and chucked into a dark corner. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Satchitananda Posted May 17, 2017 Share Posted May 17, 2017 Have you seen the Green Cube - Roof Cube tents? They might suit better? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iggle Posted May 18, 2017 Author Share Posted May 18, 2017 21 hours ago, ananda said: Have you seen the Green Cube - Roof Cube tents? They might suit better? Way too big, I'm afraid. Our house isn't symmetrical and the space I've got to work in is really more like the space underneath a long, shallow sloping roof. I'm calling it an attic but really it's more like a sodding great big cupboard which you walk into from our bedroom. (There's a proper connecting door between the two rooms now but before it was boarded out etc we used to access it through a door at the back of my wardrobe!) So 135 x 90 is as big I can go without completely turning the loft upside down. Just as importantly, this a nice shady little corner which is kind of hidden under the first beam so anyone who might happen to casually stroll in probably wouldn't ever notice anything there. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Satchitananda Posted May 18, 2017 Share Posted May 18, 2017 The L90 is probably the best bet then, but like @golf.007 said, I think you can expect light leaks from one compartment to the other. But you can remove it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iggle Posted May 18, 2017 Author Share Posted May 18, 2017 Just now, ananda said: The L90 is probably the best bet then, but like @golf.007 said, I think you can expect light leaks from one compartment to the other. But you can remove it. From what I can tell, it's either that or I get busy with the MDF! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Satchitananda Posted May 18, 2017 Share Posted May 18, 2017 Yea, tent is easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iggle Posted May 18, 2017 Author Share Posted May 18, 2017 And much quicker to dismantle if we need to get anyone in to do any work up there too! The combi boiler is actually on the other side of the room but, like I said, provided the fans etc were off and the smell was contained, you'd never spot anything hidden away in the shadows surrounded by boxes of old crap, particularly if I slung a blanket or something over it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BomShiva Posted February 21, 2021 Share Posted February 21, 2021 On 5/16/2017 at 2:24 PM, Satchitananda said: Metal Halide is not the same as Ceramic Metal Halide. You need to search for 210w CMH or CMD ballasts. I know this is a very old thread, But you can acquire retro fit, E40 CMH bulbs very easily if shop around, for a 2 foot x 2 foot area/tent this is a better option than a 315 Watt CMH or a 250 HPS/MH lamp ;-) As long as you have a 250 watt Magnetic ballast! Much lower heat output than a normal HPS/MH lamp and myself i prefer the 4000k/4200k versions over the 3000k/3100k lamps on offer. This is one i rate as a retro fit 250 watt lamp GE Tubular Ceramic Metal Halide Clear 250W E40 Cool White from GE (Model: CMH250/T/U/942/E40) A Cool White Tubular Ceramic Metal Halide Lamp designed to offer a reliable, high output solution for Street and Commercial Lighting applications. This 250 watt lamp lasts an impressive 24000 hour and is an easy retrofit for High Pressure Sodium or High Pressure Mercury Lamps. Technical Specifications for GE Tubular Ceramic Metal Halide Clear 250W E40 Cool White Cap/Base 39-40mm GES/E40 Cap/Base Type Edison Screw Colour Rendering Index 80 Colour Temp 4200 K Diameter 48 mm GE Part Code 62356 GE Part Code CMH250/T/U/942/E40 Length 211 mm Light Bulb Type Tubular Light Colour Cool White (840/845) Lumens 25000 lm Manufacturer GE Manufacturers Average Lamp Life 10000 hrs Technology Metal Halide Type Light Bulb Wattage 250 W A much cheaper option to buying a new 315 watt CMH light, and if you look you will find them on the E40 screw fitting in 150 250 and 400 watt versions, by various manufactures, i just like the GE versions price tag! BomShiva! 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Satchitananda Posted November 24, 2023 Share Posted November 24, 2023 Bumping an old thread again.... I have 250w magnetic ballast (I assume it is, it's made by Sunmaster and is a heavy brick) - so that could run a " GE Tubular Ceramic Metal Halide Clear 250W E40 Cool White "? That would be handy. Also cheap at the moment from a shop that rhymes woth "oh well" is a 315w CMH kit for £69. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norbinyo Posted November 24, 2023 Share Posted November 24, 2023 I use led in my small tent 60x60x90 ac infinity ionboard S22 100w and it do the job 124£ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Satchitananda Posted November 24, 2023 Share Posted November 24, 2023 On 21/02/2021 at 10:30 AM, BomShiva said: Much lower heat output than a normal HPS/MH lamp and myself i prefer the 4000k/4200k versions over the 3000k/3100k lamps on offer. I think my 250w ballast is magnetic so I am interested in these! Why do you prefer the cooler versions? Is it because you can veg and flower with the one bulb? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KC Posted November 24, 2023 Share Posted November 24, 2023 2 hours ago, Satchitananda said: so that could run a " GE Tubular Ceramic Metal Halide Clear 250W E40 Cool White It should do, all my magnetic ballasts can run mh and hps. If it's sunmaster then it will probably have Venture running gear. I don't think a 315w cmh would be suitable for a 60x60 more an 80x80. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Satchitananda Posted November 24, 2023 Share Posted November 24, 2023 24 minutes ago, KC said: It should do, all my magnetic ballasts can run mh and hps. If it's sunmaster then it will probably have Venture running gear. (it does) I don't think a 315w cmh would be suitable for a 60x60 more an 80x80. Yes, but can a 250w magnetic ballast run a 250w CMH? It seems like they might be able to. I have ordered the "KRC250/CMH/830/T/H/E40" to test the theory - this will give me 250w CMH in a DR60, which is exactly what I want. If the bulb doesn't work I can send it back and keep using the ballast for ordinary HPS and MH 250w. I could have tried the cooler "GE CMH250/T/U/942/E40 4,200K" for similar money and I think that;s the one BomShiva uses. If it all works to plan I have cheap 250w CMH lights. I agree 315 in a 60x60 is a bit much, I nearly did it though, until I found this blast from the plast. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KC Posted November 25, 2023 Share Posted November 25, 2023 I think the fitting for the cdm/cmh is different to an e40 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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