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Driver help.


GreenVision

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Hi all. Was wondering if any LED regs could tell me if drivers ALWAYS run their output wattage, or is their something more to it than that?

 

For example... I have a HLG-240H-C1050b. It says it runs at 249.9 watts. So TWO of those would equate to 500 watts (approx).

 

But in a video by a well know DIY builder I have seen the end result running TWO of these drivers at only 420 watts?.. :huh:

 

 

Someone please tell me what I am missing, because the only single config I can get the PPFD down on the crop seems to want to run 500w per square foot, and that is bloody close to a 600w HPS, not what I would call great numbers.

 

So I am praying there is some kind of ohms law or calculation I am missing that gets those watts down from the socket.

 

 

Cheers again all.

 

 

GV. 

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@GreenVision Has he got a dimmer on it? Also, I think you can turn the drivers down, there's a screw on top I think? 

Edit. Can confirm mine has a " lo ADJ" cap on top

 Noticed some have a " vo adj" which is voltage im guessing

I have the hlg-240h - c1050A which is non dimmable 

Edited by lukio
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A drivers have a pot on the case to turn up or down.

B drivers have wires to connect to external dimmer switch.

Download the pdf for the driver just to double check I'm not fucking this up lol.

Edited by tokenroll
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50w of cob per square foot is more than you need also. You don't need 600w of good led in 1.2m tent to pull the same weight as a 600 hps in the same size tent. My 400w BM just hammered my 600 hps weight wise

Edited by Comrade Stoker
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@lukio @tokenroll  That actually makes a fair bit of sense, I have seen Mau5 adding various controllers and basic dimmers to his gear so maybe there is something more specifically programmable? The Canopy 10 had a very fancy controller I assume for such applications.

 

I was actually concerned there was some kind of calculation that as a basic enthusiast I might have overlooked. Ohms law etc are basic enough, but when you start talking ampreage times by the voltage divided by the power of the sun to the power of 6 squared I start to get a head ache .. lol

 

Maybe running a particular current mixed with a certain Voltage results in different results in the end wattage consumption?

 

 

After reading what you have said I actually feel a little more confident in my design. A 600mh is what is, but with dimming capability I can turn down the current and spread the consumption PER CROP more efficiently. And thinking about it I can also aim the power of the COBS at the plants when they need it most.

 

Nice One  :yep:

 

 

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39 minutes ago, lukio said:

Think I'm wrong! It's watts at board. I need a breather lol

 

No your right mate. I should know this Lukio, I went to college in 1999 to study Electrical engineering. And although I'm pretty handy wiring a house you just forget all the formulas for such things.

 

But Watts is simply a measurement of electricity. And weather the watts are being show as what is on the QB or at the wall they are identical in that they are simply telling what that object (in your case your QB) is using.

 

Watts = Amp X Volts.

 

So for your Quantum Board an example is: The Watts is... 250ma (or 0.25amps) X 100.7 V (which is the minimum Vf or forward voltage) = 25.175. And in the chart on Northern Grow Lights says 25.17 so they have just dropped the decimal, understandably as its only 0.005 watts lol .

 

So in my case, the 12 cobs at 36 volts is 1.05a X 432 v (36v X 12 or one cob each)  = 453 watts. However resistance also plays a factor on the voltage & current and therefore deducts a little from each making the results lower still. I am sure being this to close to the picture I put in there that Mau5 was right and knows how to calculate the final figures past the basic wattage calculation.

 

 

 

GV. 

Edited by GreenVision
cant spell.. .. ..
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3 minutes ago, GreenVision said:

 

No your right mate. I should know this Lukio, I went to college in 1999 to study Electrical engineering. And although I'm pretty handy wiring a house you just forget all the formulas for such things.

 

But Watts is simply a measurement of electricity. And weather the watts are being show as what is on the QB or at the wall they are identical in that they are simply telling what that object (in your case your QB) is using.

 

Watts = Amp X Volts.

 

So for your Quantum Board an example is: The Watts is... 250ma (or 0.25amps) X 100.7 V (which is the minimum Vf or forward voltage) = 25.175. And in the chart on Northern Grow Lights says 25.17 so they have just dropped the decimal, understandably as its only 0.005 watts lol .

 

So in my case, the 12 cobs at 36 volts is 1.05a X 432 v (36v X 12 or one cob each)  = 453 watts. However resistance also plays a factor on the voltage & current and therefore deducts a little from each making the results lower still. I am sure being this to close to the picture I put in there that Mau5 was right and knows how to calculate the final figures past the basic wattage calculation.

 

 

 

GV. 

Well thank God for that! Managed to melt my own brain :) phew 

 

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17 minutes ago, lukio said:

Well thank God for that! Managed to melt my own brain :) phew 

 

 

Really helps with what I had planned mate. I had to go large because the size and shape of my area. But now I can cover the area with a COB every 325cm2 and my total wattage for the entire area has dropped from 1890w (3 X 630 as the HPS ballast actually draws 630w) to a Maximum at full pelt 1359w for the LED. 

 

And I am willing to bet that my Lumens, PAR, PPFD are all at least 33% higher given the reading MAU5 got from a few of his designs.

 

Plus the added extras like no burning my head, no more huge parabolic shades taking chunks out of my skull, and a much more even spread.   :yep:

Edited by GreenVision
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11 minutes ago, GreenVision said:

 

Really helps with what I had planned mate. I had to go large because the size and shape of my area. But now I can cover the area with a COB every 325cm2 and my total wattage for the entire area has dropped from 1890w (3 X 630 as the HPS ballast actually draws 630w) to a Maximum at full pelt 1359w for the LED. 

 

And I am willing to bet that my Lumens, PAR, PPFD are all at least 33% higher given the reading MAU5 got from a few of his designs.

 

Plus the added extras like no burning my head, no more huge parabolic shades taking chunks out of my skull, and a much more even spread.   :yep:

Can't wait to see it all built! Yeah I love how clean led rooms are, no reflectors n shit.

I need to buy a ppf meter. I think you can grab one that does the job for 150 bucks. To know how much light is exactly where would be so bloody handy. Just to throw a potential spanner in the works, you know the qb boards are re stocking tmrw right?  

Edit. Re stock 15th

Edited by lukio
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2 hours ago, lukio said:

Can't wait to see it all built! Yeah I love how clean led rooms are, no reflectors n shit.

I need to buy a ppf meter. I think you can grab one that does the job for 150 bucks. To know how much light is exactly where would be so bloody handy. Just to throw a potential spanner in the works, you know the qb boards are re stocking tmrw right?  

Edit. Re stock 15th

 

 

I didnt know that mate no, have some spare cash about at the moment as well.. :scared:

 

What sort of coverage do they get Lukio?.. I have been on the site, and it seem I would need a case of them?

Edited by GreenVision
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21 minutes ago, GreenVision said:

 

 

I didnt know that mate no, have some money spare cash about at the moment as well.. :scared:

 

What sort of coverage do they Lukio?.. I have been on the site, and it seem I would need a case of them?

4-6 boards per 1.2m2 depending how hard you run em. They work out cheaper than cob.Such an easy build, its two wires...Im REALLY tempted

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