bongme Posted June 19, 2002 Author Share Posted June 19, 2002 hi Splan mate How are you today ok ? Na thats should be ok, its just a lot of Commercials in the grow its self, but i know your grow will be fine, thank you Splan Bongme :fuck: me no football today rrrrrrrrr!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
splan Posted June 19, 2002 Share Posted June 19, 2002 No worries then mate, a little sample will be heading your way at the weekend! No football - AAAAAAAAAAAAAARRRRGGGGGGGGGGGHHHH That means no valid excuse to skive half the day! Might just do it anyway! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ICaneBud Posted June 19, 2002 Share Posted June 19, 2002 OT1 - I'm curious because you've confirmed what I've always thought, that plants do better when potted on in a succession of pot sizes, but I read recently that there is an increased probability of any given seed turning out female if the tap root doesn't hit any obstruction in the first six inches of growth. This could be total b0ll0cks of course but perhaps there is some additional stress through hitting the bottom of the pot? Also, do you think landracers/Sativas would prefer to be planted straight into large pots/plots and that only stuff bred for indoor growing needs the potting on treatment on the basis of what the plant is genetically disposed to in its environment? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldtimer1 Posted June 19, 2002 Share Posted June 19, 2002 ICB Most plants are dioecious ie either fem or male plus a few % of variable dominance in between’s. For breeding or keeping to mum/dad up you only want plants that under most conditions always show as pure fems or males. Nothing you do to them will change this they will be what their genes make them. With cuttings I always recommend clipping the tap root when pricking out, we have found that plants this is done to give higher yields. If a seedling plant will turn male because its tap root is cramped the dam thing is to unstable for you to want to keep anyway! Its genes remain the same throughout its entire life/cuttings generations, they can’t be changed by environmental factors. ie: if its makeup is such that that it reacts to a certain level of environmental stress it will do just the same at any other stage. So had you given it the so called good treatment and it looked like a solid fem. Get half way through flowering and give some stress like disrupted lighting or water shortage and it would be bananas every where. Equatorial types are much more prone to this than the more commonly grown indica dominant types normally grown under lights nowadays. On the compost thing, it is precisely because compost is made with large reserves of fertilisers, ph balancing additives as well as wetting agents, that it can quickly go bad once made thoroughly wet in a container. On the other hand if a plant is planted in it and roots through quickly this stabilises the compost and keeps the compost aerobic. Planting seeds or very small plants of any type of plant into large containers of strong compost is just not a good idea. You can just get away with it using peat based multi purpose as they only have a little fert in them and are much more airy but the end results will still not be what they could be. Only enough water is added when compost is made for its ingredients to mix and stabilise. From then on decomposition gets under way and the fertiliser and ph balance slowly change. Compost is made to retain water and air at a certain ratio and not to evaporate, it being enclosed on 5 sides just makes this worse. Even organic composts have a limited life once made up. Take JI compost for instance once it has been mixed and bagged should be used within the first month for the best results, after 2 months the compost will become to acid for some plants and after 3 months both the ph and fert balance will probably be way off. Do the compost manufactures put a use by date on the sacs? No and they have been resisting doing it for years. Natural top soil outdoors works in a totally different way and unless water logged, never goes anaerobic or stagnant. The top soil, ie any thing from 6 inches to 15 inches is where the feeder roots grow, but mostly in the top 6 inches. The tap root goes down to the water table in the subsoil. The only thing that limit the plant is competition from other plants, apart from that the plant can root out as far as it wants. The whole soil is a living environment with a constant progression of air and water through it.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mono Posted June 19, 2002 Share Posted June 19, 2002 Love your posts oldtimer.... my ot1 file is growing and growing...... Blowing away many of my preconceptions you are....just too much for me to change all at once, but I'm trying to take on board bits and pieces of what you been saying.... I never had any problems with seeds or cuttings in the All-Mix though....in fact better for me than any othre medium.... Next stop....ditch the All-Mix and start attempting to mix up my own.....like ot1 says, I guess I'm paying a lot of money for 30% prelite....I not knocking All-Mix....I been using it for the last 18 months....but mixing my own has to give me a better understanding of this soil organism... Still looking good down there bongme???? Mono....x Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chip Posted June 19, 2002 Share Posted June 19, 2002 Hi all but I read recently that there is an increased probability of any given seed turning out female if the tap root doesn't hit any obstruction in the first six inches of growth. This was the topic of my first post on this site and at the time, no one gave me a definite answer. If a seedling plant will turn male because its tap root is cramped the dam thing is to unstable for you to want to keep anyway! Its genes remain the same throughout its entire life/cuttings generations, they can’t be changed by environmental factors. Then along comes OT1 and answers this question and simultaneously puts other thoughts and ideas into perspective. :cool: as Regards Chip PS. Gotta love this site for the simple spread of ideas and knowledge Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongme Posted June 19, 2002 Author Share Posted June 19, 2002 hi Greenies Nice one OT1 Mono i will be sending in some photos vary soon of the bad green day i had, the babies look a lot better now thanks C ya laters Bongme :peace: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotweed Posted June 19, 2002 Share Posted June 19, 2002 OT I am a little confused, The subject of pot size has me slightly perplexed. I try to keep my plants as natural as possible and I find the more you fiddle the greater the chances of plant failure. With this in mind and considering how MJ self seeds in the wild I find the argument for multiple re-potting flawed. I do personally re-pot once but well before the the plant has a chance to occupy all available space. I don't claim to be an expert but I would be interested if anyone else has similiar experience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve The Weed Posted June 19, 2002 Share Posted June 19, 2002 Hi all. One of the finest, and certainly the most informative, threads I've read on the site. I started growing thinking re-potting would create stress. My first grow was based on a starter pot for seedlings, then into a bigger pot to finish off. Now, I may be wrong, and it may change from plant type to plant type, but every time I repot it's like my plants (Northern Lights) have been givn steroids, one/two days to settle then they seem to go into overdrive. My old dad was a great gardener (not mj unfortunately) but he always up'd the pots until the plants were, in his opinion, ready for their final home. It worked for him and its working for me with mj. At the moment I am planning all my grows around 3 pot sizes. Interesting stuff though, just hope it works with my #1 Skunk and Sweet Tooth! Steve The Weed :mad: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldtimer1 Posted June 19, 2002 Share Posted June 19, 2002 scotweed I don’t know what to say. in what way is multiple potting flawed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DeeMaxx Posted June 20, 2002 Share Posted June 20, 2002 scotweed I don’t know what to say. in what way is multiple potting flawed? It's working great for me...I just put my plants into their final pots yesterday and one of them has started to pre flower and i'm pretty sure i see 2 pistals Another day and i will defiantly know.. I've had mine in 3 different pots through the whole grow.. I started the seedlings in the smallest pots i could find in B&Q and used a peat based soil on them at first(all i could get at the time) and when i seen the roots starting to come throught the bottom i changed them to 5 liter pots and then used miracal grow potting soil and now finally changed them to the 7 and half liter pots...and they all are looking healthy and strong...another week and i'm starting them all on 12/12 so hopefully i'll get 4 healthy females scotweed i see where your comming from but i think natural soil out in the wild has less nuites than the soil you buy from your local B&Q that most of has more added.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arnold Layne Posted June 20, 2002 Share Posted June 20, 2002 Holy Karamba! - whatta thread! Great stuff OT1, you have answered so many questions! I am guilty, as charged, of not potting on!!! And in JI.3! I have been getting away with it, I think, because I am really wary of over-watering. I like to let things grow till they start to droop just a tad, then water. However I have been having some probs of late, and I think you may well have provided some directions for exploration... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldtimer1 Posted June 20, 2002 Share Posted June 20, 2002 Arnold in the early days a lot of my American stoner mates used to try and get round the compost going off in big pots by dry loading the pots and watering enough to just wet round the seedling or cutting. It worked to some extent, they used to in those days grow big plants often only one in 10 or 15 gallon pots to a 1k light. I have seen them 8 to 10 ft tall and 6 or 7 ft across, they used to say I was crazy coz I was starting to grow a lot of smaller plants under the same sort of lights, we are going back 25 or 30 years here, nowadays no one thinks anything is wrong with sog or scrog and know of no one who grows full sized plants indoors. Any how we have done several comparative grows to test what works best for us using our specific compost mix and we are 100% sure that what I’ve been saying is right on the money. I will see if I can work out a way of posting pics to show what I am talking about, it depends if I still have the data and pics archived if not it will have to wait until I can take some more. A final but unrelated comment it looks like the B&Q organic compost in its brought form is not much good. In fact the plants in it looked so bad I pulled the whole grow before going to 12/12. So all the plants and the compost they were in have gone to the compost heap for recycling in my veg patch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DeeMaxx Posted June 20, 2002 Share Posted June 20, 2002 A final but unrelated comment it looks like the B&Q organic compost in its brought form is not much good. In fact the plants in it looked so bad I pulled the whole grow before going to 12/12. So all the plants and the compost they were in have gone to the compost heap for recycling in my veg patch. oldtimer that B&Q soil nearly killed one of my plants.. I would never use that again... It took over a week after changing the soil for it to start growing again :curse: Sorry to here you had to dump your plants because of it.. http://www.uk420.com/cgi-bin....;t=3518 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jock Posted June 20, 2002 Share Posted June 20, 2002 Try multi purpose compost from B+Q, its avaliable with perlite and john innes no3 already added. I use this in small 3inch pots to start then repot in 7inch pots with a quater handful of dried chicken shit then on to large 12-15 inch pots with a full handfull of chicken shit a week before flowering. then its liquid seaweed and earth bloom all the way. I started this method as i have been having ph, salt and nutrient probs, using coco. Well that and i was sick of having to measure this that the other and add all kinds of man made products into my crop. 150 litres or 3 bags for a £10, i suggest adding a little coco or ,more perlite to the mix, as the John innes in the mix can indeed be a little too heavy to start them off. I now have had no problems with anything no leaf burn, over or under watering probs, looking good. I dont even check or adjust ph. I already know my water is slightly acidic but the ladies sure dont seem to mind. Its a bloody weed after all, i know most of us treat them as children but these kiddies will almost look after themselves if aloud. Dont be fooled by new bigger better products, remember that the hydro shops have a vested interest in selling expensive hydro products. Anyone else gone back to basics yet, i have and i aint looking back. I am not saying this is the best method just the simplest and everyone knows the simple ways are usually the best. Hydroponics and the use of man made chemical agents, definatly have a place and are here to stay. But in my mind the simplicity and resulting product from bio methods far outways any claims of increased yield with hydro. Anyways however you grow, grow on, respect your fellow man and spread the word 'gardening is great' good for me good for you and good for the environment. Who looses, oh thats right NOBODY Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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