D.i.y. Lighting Control Box

[psycho]

and the top view. the diodes should correspond to the switches (left to right-wise), and same for the sockets at the back of the unit.

incidentially, the sheet metal used to make the lid was an old road sign, cut to size cleaned, cut, sanded and sprayed.

[psycho]

strip a whole lot of wires and connect one set of terminals to the other, and the lid is attached! not shown, but there is actually a wire between the earth terminal and the earths from the mains cables. Slipped my mind, but I found it as missing on doing an insulation test, for which you will need a megger. For your own safety, you should test any DIY electronics project. To do this, first clamp one probe to an earth pin on one of the plugs, and touch the side of the case with the other. Start with the outer case and work in, that's my tactic. If you have never used a megger before, be aware that you need to hold the switch to apply the test, i believe it is done with a capacitor discharge. You have to hold this switch on purpose, because it uses up at least one of your hands. Oh yeah, wear rubber shoes. You should have a short (0 reading) between the earth and the case. If not, run a wire from an earth to any bolt connected to the case, like the ones that affix the sockets or switches. The earth plates on these things will do just fine as well. Next try the lid, then the inner components at a minimum. Then check for isolation between the points and earth. If you get a short here, you have a loose wire somewhere that is touching the case or some common conductor.

[psycho]

finished unit.... finished for now that it

[psycho]

shown driving four lamps, three GE SON-Ts and one Orsam SON-T+ (far right)

When wiring lamp bases, remeber live to the centre pin and neutral to the outer screw.

[psycho]

Things to do when I get around to taking it to bits (wish I'd done first time around)::

use rubber grommets around the mains cable holes, this will stop the metal cutting the wire and working its way towards blowing a fuse somewhere.

move the terminal blocks on the lid so that the lid can close (the terminals on the box want to occupy the same space, doh!)

cut holes for some more fans, in the lid, iCube style.. (or whatever that apple box-shaped computer was called)

[Themadhippy]

be aware that you need to hold the switch to apply the test, i believe it is done with a capacitor discharge.

eee modern tecknolage,we had to wind our meggers up,the faster you wound the more the apprentice jumped

one slight consern are you using the 13A socket outlets to connect the lamps? reason for asking is on the inital striking theres 2.5kv+ roaming around ,enough to even break through pvc cables

[psycho]

Costs (if not listed, either lying around my house or found/scavenged)::

(6) Castors - £2.25, local junk shop

(2) 8cm 12v Fans - £4, ebay

(2) Fan guards - £3, ebay

Relay (DPDT 240Vac/10A) + base - £7, maplin

(4) Riser Plates - £2, nuts and bolts

12v 2.1A (0.1A min) transformer (from 240vac) - £5, ebay

(4) 2-plate 13A switches - £8 (expensive!), screwfix

(4) Unswitched 13A sockets - £4, screwfix

45A 2-plate switch, £3, local junk shop

(4) 3.3v LEDs - £1, with resistors below, ebay

(4) 470 ohm resistors

(4) 35uF +/-10% 250vac capacitors - £70, with ignitors and ballasts below

(4) Anti-cycling ignitors

(4) 400w Ballasts

Or a round-about total of £120.

[psycho]

is it really safe?

I certainly hope so

i've intended to test it as far as possible to make sure that I'm not going to kill myself or burn my house down :!:

[psycho]

are you using the 13A socket outlets to connect the lamps? reason for asking is on the inital striking theres 2.5kv+ roaming around ,enough to even break through pvc cables

guilty as charged i'm afraid. It's on plastic castors and I will have to inspect the wire now and again I guess?

BTW, hippy, but you can't (well, shouldn't) shock trainees these days, they don't like it LOLMAO

[psycho]

what was the advantage in going this route other than the price?

well, i got to have the fun of making it, and I have a system with replaceable parts, and parts which I know how to replace. Right down to nuts and bolts When I bought my bench drill, it arrived in pieces, and I was a little irritated at having to assemble it (yes, i was expecting it to arrive ready-to-operate), but having had to assemble myself, I know where all the adjustments are, how to adjust belt tension, headstock position, ... almost feel like I know how it works, too :bush:

in general, i prefer to make things myself I guess