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Flushing


ghengas

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Nothing has changed, natural land and land farmed with good organic principles, means leaching is virtually zero, no different to how it has been for millions of years, the Rothampstead experiment is still ongoing as far as I know and as true today as it ever was.

This is very different to the impact of chemically farmed land where millions of tons of soluble chemical salt fertilisers are applied every year, or industrial farming practises, where animals are kept in huge numbers on small areas of land or battery conditions, farmers spreading this waste at levels many times the ability of land to deal with and absorb.

For many years, factory farmers and chemical companies have pointed at the Rothampstead experiment, to say we are not responsible for pollution. We have known since the fifties that they are responsible for polluting the water courses and aquifers. They are still in denial. The cost of this pollution every year in the uk alone is billions of £’s, this enviromental vandilisum has been allowed to continue because it supposedly supplies cheap food, who pays the hidden cost? We all do!

so what that paragraph was saying was that the experiment shows that naturally occuring P doesn't leach from the soil, so the leaching is definately from famers chemical ferts? i get ya

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It's been my experience that planning ahead for bloom by providing the raw organic materials is the best way to get a robust bloom.

Flushing is a weird thing that only a flood could do in nature IMO.

The way I see it ... The raw materials are broken down by the micro herd and those nutrients become available in the amounts relative to the materials.

Flushing could wash away useful nutrients but, they won't be at levels like the liquids, IMO, so there is no need to remove.

I do like to feed with a layer of sea bird guano high in P plus a bit of bone meal plus water with black strap molasses when it's time to change from veg to flower.

I cut back on the Bull kelp before and switch to Algamin kelp after the stretch.

Then again each garden is different.

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  • 1 month later...
You can’t wash the nutrient reserves from soil, soil based composts or composts except for the immediate soluble salts.

You can,t flush nutrients from plants, you can starve them by just watering them.

My advise if you are using an organic compost, is to alter your feed and reduce the amount towards the end of flowering.

At the peak of blooming you would probably be using 1ml of grow and 3ml of bloom per litre of water. At about the end of week 6 change to some thing like 2ml gr and 2ml bl then 2ml gr 1ml bl then to the end 2 ml gr. This helps maintain the plants healthy right to the end of its life. This gives but that burns sweetly without the acrid taste produced by an excess of phosphorus.

You don’t have to worry about the excess of nutrients in when growing with organic nutrients in the same way as you do with chemical fertilisers.

do i need to flush if ive uced canna vegs and florres and canna boost in bio biww all mix.i know i have used the wrong feed as this is my first ever grow. my power plant hav a couple of brown hairs at the mo.

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HIMAN

As you used chemical ferts like OT said would be best if you did flush, the next grow get bio bizz and thats it sorted

EM2

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  • 5 months later...
HIMAN

As you used chemical ferts like OT said would be best if you did flush, the next grow get bio bizz and thats it sorted

EM2

I`m useing the same canna nutes and asked the same question, i was steared in the direction of OT`s posts and came up with the conclution that i didn`t have to flush, just give some vega for the last couple of weeks????????? :stoned::bag::unsure:

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I remember OT1 saying that since he posted his guide Biobizz have fucked about with the N-P-K ratio it may have to be tweaked.

*Could* be the cause, i dunno though.

And as far as i knew, canna aren't organic thus need to be flushed. (although i might be wrong)

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Which is best? I've been going with the feed schedule which is the 2nd one.

Depends on the strain IME

If its a 9-10 weeker then IME you get brown pistils around week 6, thats when I start lowering the bloom (about 3 weeks before chop)

Longer flowerers like sats go for ages, and first brown hairs means little its a matter of knowing your strain or making an educated guess as to when theres 2-3 weeks left (Can be a difficult task!)

Plants love 2ml grow and 1ml bloom at any stage of flowering IME, it don't half green them up but you do sacrifice yield :yinyang:

Remember its just a guide!, the ultimate test is the smoke I am still trying to get my ash a bit darker

Regards

EM2

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you shouldn't lose any yield you should gain some!! with the biobizz schedule you get a lot of yelllowing towards the end of flower, because there's simply not enough nitrogen. yellow leaves means hungry plants!! with OT's schedule they should stay green and well fed towards the end, unless you're seeing signs of P deficiency then there's enough available, and i've never seen any kind of deficiencies with OT's schedule, but always see N def with the biobizz schedule. also remember him saying about K making for a smooth smoke, and high levels of P in comparison make for a harsh smoke, so if you're lacking in K but still have plenty of P in the plant then you'll get a harsh smoke and biobizz grow has more K in it compared to P. which makes sense, the tobacco industry have been adding potassium based substances for years to provide good clean burning tobacco

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Ye a get what ur saying, didnt think about the reduced yield how much do u think u lose by lowering the bloom for the last 2-3 weeks?

IME, nothing. But then growing as organically as possible is not all about yield.

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how much do u think u lose by lowering the bloom for the last 2-3 weeks?

Sorry I wasn't very clear, you wont lose any yield by lowering the bloom in the last weeks in fact this is essential

What I was saying is the plants love 2ml grow and 1ml bloom at any stage of flowering!!, I used to get the yellow leaves about three weeks in or so and 2ml of grow and 1ml bloom pulled them through, what I was saying is you would lose yield by just giving this mix, but you would have healthy looking leaves!!!!

Its not something I have notived its something that was pointed out to me

Hope thats clearer

EM2

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  • 1 year later...
You can’t wash the nutrient reserves from soil, soil based composts or composts except for the immediate soluble salts.

You can,t flush nutrients from plants, you can starve them by just watering them.

My advise if you are using an organic compost, is to alter your feed and reduce the amount towards the end of flowering.

At the peak of blooming you would probably be using 1ml of grow and 3ml of bloom per litre of water. At about the end of week 6 change to some thing like 2ml gr and 2ml bl then 2ml gr 1ml bl then to the end 2 ml gr. This helps maintain the plants healthy right to the end of its life. This gives but that burns sweetly without the acrid taste produced by an excess of phosphorus.

You don’t have to worry about the excess of nutrients in when growing with organic nutrients in the same way as you do with chemical fertilisers.

thanks OT1 . my bio bloom ran out and i am 8. week of flowering. i was thinking what i would do and then i saw your post. i will give only bio grow or fish mix till end.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest cantharis

A few grows back I did an experiment, half my grow I flushed, the other half continued to give nutes. Guess what - no discernible difference in taste whatever.

Edited by cantharis
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