Guest The Sheriff Posted December 7, 2007 Share Posted December 7, 2007 Ok guys hit a stumbling block for me im afraid anybody advise me on the wiring of the pictured item ? My plan was to have the unit not permanently wired up ie instead of the mains going in on the left there can i stick a 3 pin plug & wire to make it live ? then have an 3 pin socket coming out extension like ? If not not a problem to splice in but as said need advice , from the drawing i presume the "motor" is the rvk ? , so wires from rvk , blue to N brown to U & the green to PE . That would leave the mains , brown to L & blue to N . No idea what that 230 vac output is . Would appreciate if anyone could tell me if im any where near & to the stand alone unit idea Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest podgy Posted December 7, 2007 Share Posted December 7, 2007 Man... if thats a thermostat you don't want my help.... Oh yeah its electrical you really don't want my help I would suspect that it would be safer and probably better to go ahead and wire it up without the plugs, but maybe your planning on moving this piece around or hooking it up to something else and don't wanna go through the same nightmare again. ne ways I'm sure you'll get help soon enough... good luck with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scraglor Posted December 7, 2007 Share Posted December 7, 2007 yeah go ahead mate, you're pretty much spot on, the 230v output is just that, it'll put out 230v whenever the unit is switched on, for if you want something other than your fan powered whenever the fan is run, for example if you have intake and outake fans of the same size you could have your outake fan on the 230v output and your intake fan on a reduced speed on the reduced output. or perhaps if you were using co2 you could have the 230 volt output switch a relay to turn off co2 dosing whenever the fan is switched on by a thermostat, whatever you like Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest The Sheriff Posted December 7, 2007 Share Posted December 7, 2007 Cheers mate ill hook it up as stated first thing tomorrow & see if can avoid the bang much appreciated . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest The Sheriff Posted December 10, 2007 Share Posted December 10, 2007 Woopsie ok thanks very much mate added an earth & uploading a pic for revision . If any mods about please delete the first pictue as not to cause anyone elese confusion , thx . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest podgy Posted December 11, 2007 Share Posted December 11, 2007 Glad to see you got this sorted out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
growguy yorks Posted January 19, 2008 Share Posted January 19, 2008 Hi there... im going to buy one of these 5 step silent(non buzzing) speed controlsfor my grow.... Im planning to also use an ATC-800 heating+cooling temperature controller to bypass it. Hopefully Whazzup or OT1 or Electric man or someone who knows how will see this post - Anyway this is the wiring diagram for the ATC heat+cool unit (((i have another diagram showing me how to use only 1 plug to run it all so ill be doing that, but the cooling circuit is the same other than where its input comes from so this diagram is ok for my question here))) So just looking at the cooling circuit on the temperature unit , and looking at the wiring of the speed controller this thread is about, can any1 see how to combine the 5 step speedo with the cooling circuit of the temp unit to provide thermostatic speed control-just like the honeywell and ceiling fan speedo units or the one i did with a danfoss stat and a ceiling fan speedo. you know-the one , the fan rund on the speed you select but when the temp rises to your set point the fan/s kick over to full speed. The temp unit is great coz it has seperate heating and cooling circuits like an ecotechnics evoloution but only costs 35 quid(needs mounting to a box and wiring) Will this be exactly the same bypass connection as it would be with the honeywell type units or will the neutral be involved somehow and require a relay to switch it(the speedo) in and out of the circuit controlled by the temperature unit?? Anyway, 1000 thank yous in advance for any nudges in the right direction or any assistance anyone can give me on this subject. Hopefully what i want to do will be possible. Take it easy everyone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sensiman2 Posted January 19, 2008 Share Posted January 19, 2008 Nice unit sherrif, take it this is a 5 sttep variable petentiometer, its has a core thus transforming the current to a different polarity, if this is wired to an rvk then its a little o.t.t as these usually cost ££££, bot is well better that some of the dimmer switches i have seen on here. O.K what you said is you need it to work from a plug, this is no problem, the L and N can go straight onto a plug, rate the fuse @ 3a,, pe is earth, though rvk do not have earth connections, will not matter if you get the motor the wrong way, as you can swap them around, all what will happen is that the motor will spin in reverse, you will know straight away by the air flow, just swap it in the domino block. these really suit acoustic fan motors as they reduce motor humm by not just being a voltage regulator. There are 2 outputs on this, one is just a resistor, which will be fine on an rvk, the other, is for a more serious motor. Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scraglor Posted January 19, 2008 Share Posted January 19, 2008 (edited) it's single phase, sqopping live and neutral the wrong way round won't reverse the motor, it's not dc. and it's a transformer not a potentiometer, there's not polarity in ac, it changes voltage. also they aren't that expensive, and systemair specify this type of speed control for the rvk/ruck fans as for that temp unit, you've only shown the external input/output connections, there should be another diagram that shows the internal relay configuration, which is what you'll need to show me too be of help Edited January 19, 2008 by scraglor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
growguy yorks Posted January 20, 2008 Share Posted January 20, 2008 Thank you so much for that Whazzup.... this will be a luxury, buying parts for something and not having to suss it as i go along ... just one thing...im not great at understanding proper electrical diagrams with the symbols... does any1 see how this would look if it(the digram by whazzup)) was done the stupid persons way((like the way i did the diagram i posted )) sorry to be a pain in the arse... Ill have another 100 looks at it in the meantime . thanks again Whazzup for your assistance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scraglor Posted January 20, 2008 Share Posted January 20, 2008 well basically he's put in two components, the one with the boz with a diagonal line with a dotted line that goes to the switch, is a relay and it's all one component including the switch. the other thing in a box is the 5 step transformer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
growguy yorks Posted January 20, 2008 Share Posted January 20, 2008 (edited) Thnks man... earths yeah id always do that anyway-i didnt include the earth paths in my diagram to avoid complicating it. so i definately need a relay then huh...dammit, I was hoping it would be able to be done without one on the same way that my danfoss central heating stat bypasses my dimmer directly without use of a relay. Oh well, I guess if it needs one it needs one. Ill show my friend your diagram and get him to translate it into my childish diagram style to be 100% sure. Thanks again Edited January 20, 2008 by growguy yorks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scraglor Posted January 20, 2008 Share Posted January 20, 2008 you cant just short it out like a dimmer, because doing this puts 240volts on the transformer output, which is only partway up the length of the windings, and as neutral remains connected, then current will flow from the output and out through the neutral, and because the output is only (for example) halfway up the windings the "resistance" is reduced so you put too much current through the transformer, equals broken transformer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
growguy yorks Posted January 20, 2008 Share Posted January 20, 2008 (edited) Thanks for that... good explanation of why it cant be done the cheapo way.. makes me feel better about finding space in the enclosure for a chunky relay .. Whazup you mention a fuse... the alterniative diagram for the temperature controller unit suggests using a 3 amp blade fise like a car between the power in and the temp unit... I was planning to fit a panel mounted or inline fuseholder and use a glass fuse instead. Is this what you mean or do you mean somewhere else? thanks Ok one last thing, for the relay to be used...would one of those maplins 10amp jobbies that ppl use in diy lighting contactors... thank you for all ur help guys.... Edited January 20, 2008 by growguy yorks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scraglor Posted January 20, 2008 Share Posted January 20, 2008 Thanks for that... good explanation of why it cant be done the cheapo way.. makes me feel better about finding space in the enclosure for a chunky relay ..Whazup you mention a fuse... the alterniative diagram for the temperature controller unit suggests using a 3 amp blade fise like a car between the power in and the temp unit... I was planning to fit a panel mounted or inline fuseholder and use a glass fuse instead. Is this what you mean or do you mean somewhere else? thanks Ok one last thing, for the relay to be used...would one of those maplins 10amp jobbies that ppl use in diy lighting contactors... thank you for all ur help guys.... you can, but you could get away with a much smaller one. Those relays shouldn't be used as contactors by the way, i know there's a sticky thread with them in. but the 10A rating is for resistive loads and the contacts can weld on same as the relays in timers do, a contactor has two sets of contacts per switch which along with a much larger switching coil which in turn means heavier springs, so it can switch heavier inductive loads Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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