So we want to build a light do we well why not, its easy only three component to connect namely.

Ballast

Capacitor

Igniter

The light I will build is a 400 Watt HPS but the components can easily be upgraded for higher Wattages, I salvaged these parts so I am unsure where the best (cheapest) place to buy these would be RS will sell them but they will be reassuringly expensive!

The ballast is a transtar LN400F2T 4.6 A Son Any 400 Watt HPS ballast will do

Capacitor is A 250 Volt 40 uF the ID on it is an RBR RI008HP or equivalent

Ignitor is a vosslo schwabe No.140597 and is a 70 - 400 Watt 240 Volt

Again any equivalent one is OK just look at the pics of mine if yours looks the same and has the same parameters then your set.

You will also need a METAL enclosure or case to house your components you can get these like all the other parts from electrical wholesalers (CEF Edmunson etc.)

Here is the capacitor and ignitor the capacitor has two leads thes go to the live and neutral of the supply (the plug in the socket in the wall)

The ignitor has three terminals one neutral one from the ballast and one to the lamp.

We will need a 20mm hole cutter from whole salers and two compression glands, A few metres of 1.5mm flex a plug top and 5A fuse. Use a drill with the hole cutter to cut two holes in our enclosure and file the rags from the holes! when done. Put the gland in the hole and tighten up the lock nut, the lex pushes through the gland and then tighten the top part of the gland to nip and seal around the flex.

The enclosure with the gland in.

Then I hit my first problem that I had already factored in, The ballast mount is to small for the fixings on the base, the answer DIN rail or any other metal contraption the DIN rail is mounted to the base of the ballast and we then mount the hacksawed din rail to the bracket in my enclosure. This keeps the ballast raised from the case and reduces heat it is a good idea to raise the ballast in the enclosure if your enclosure doesn't have a bracket drill some holes and make one.

The capacitor and ignitor are mounted on DIN rail in a similar fashion but we don't screw it down yet until we have connected it the ballast has 4 terminals but only 3 do any thing your ballast may be different so check the markings mine says lamp is pin 2 which is on the very left hand side and line (live from plug) is 220 V for pin 3 and 240 V for pin 4

well we use the 240 V one in the UK so our incoming live goes to pin 4 or the 240 V line we also connect one of our capacitor leads to this point as well.

Pics shown connecting out of the enclosure for convenience don't forget boys you should be connecting with the parts mounted inside the case!!!

The ignitor has a wiring diagram on it!!! its easy to follw it has three terminals a neutral from the plug we connect the neutral in here from the polug we also connect the out going neutral (to reflector) and the other capacitor lead so three wires in here its marked N and the diagram shows this.

Next we take the lamp out from the ballast (pin 2 on the transtar) and this goes to the ignitor its labelled B on mine but check yours you should be able to see the live going into this on the diagram (this is a live from the ballast and not straight from plug) only one wire in here.

Now apart from the earths there is only one more wire to connect (in the case!!!) this is the supply (live) to the lamp it goes from the ignitor marked Lp on mine (and most) to the outgoing live to the reflector again one wire in here.

After we have connected every thing we screw down the DIN rail with the capacitor and ignitor on we now earth everything the case the lid and each Din Rail now I take it that anyone attempting this will be competent enough to know how to earth everything this is paramount absolutely needs doing but we should end up with something like below.

We now screw up our lid after checking all connections connect up our reflector and away we go. (standing right back when we switch it on no only kidding).

I will do the circuit diagram tommorrow if any one is interested like said there is one on the ignitor so shouldn't really be a problem.

but there you go simple as.

Here is the diagram not very scientific but it works!!

Nice one Electric Man, I didn't realise 'ballasts' were made from so few components.

Thanks,
Felix.

Good point I think the ballasts about £40 the ignitor £5 capacitor £3 case £10, there may well be a cheaper place I don't know but remember this can be used to repair lights and trouble shoot.

Hi Very good try, looks nice n tidy, but i think you should vent the case and use 2.5mm cable,
Also you dont show your earths on the diag, And what size fuse is in the plug?
JS

Edit to add you can get these parts from our lovely UK420 Store, just ask

5 A fuse so 1.5mm flex is easily good enough after all standard flex only goes to 1.5 and this is the biggest we can fit in the plug top.

As said every thing should be earthed and I expect any one attempting this knows how to earth things, I did put the earths in the diagram but it looked a mess and would only add confusion.

I think that earthing it is the most important part of this DIY build, in order to be safe, is there anyway you could please explain clearly how to do this?? Many people won't know how and the last thing we need is for someone to get hurt.

I agree with EO, earthing is the most important aspect from a safety angle and people will need to know how to earth to be able to follow the rest of the instructions in this thread. Especially as you mention that you think it best to mount everything inside a metal case. As it stands, if you were to just follow the instructions in this thread without including the earth (which somebody may, not inderstanding the in's and out's as well as yourself Electric Man 2), then it could be very dangerous.

It's better to be safe than sorry. If you could include the earths in your descriptions and diagram that would be great, just a little add on post to clarify would bespot on.

OK here it is earthed it looks a little ugly but its safe as. Notice how all earths come from the same point, I used brass bolts to fix the DIN rail holding the components to the case it doesn't matter which bolt you choose for the incoming earth from plug just take them all from this point. one for the case, one for the lid one for DIN rail with capacitor and ignitor on and another for the other side of the ballast (DIN rail). I used crimp lugs for my earths available from wholesalers make sure you get 1.5mm crimp lugs now being a spark I have a set of crimps to compress the lugs these are a tad expensive at £45 but most people, won't have these although it is not recommended (BY LUG MANUFACTURES) I know from experience it is possible to compress the lug using pliers or mole grips just make absolutely sure that the lug contacts the wire (strip lots of copper back so the actual wire touches the bolt as well and it cannot be pulled out give it a tug you will know it is connected. The other option here would be to strip back loads of copper and wrap it around the bolt this is how it was done years ago I wouldn't do this IMO compressing the lug with pliers is better but a set of crimps is ideal. The earth for the case needs to go to metal part my case had a bracket inside if yours doesn't drill a hole and put a bolt in now my case was painted and it is very important that you scrape the paint off to show metal other wise the paint insulates the earth from the case just make absolutely sure there is exposed metal where you have scraped the paint from. The lid is exactly the same except we need a long earth to allow the lid to be removed again make sure you scrape back the paint.


When you have finished I strongly reccomend you test your earths you can use a cheap bleep tester you know the sort two probes and a bleep when connected. Put one probe to your earth on the plug top and follow through touching each earthed place with the other probe the earth poin t each DIN rail the case (not on paint) the lid again some where there is metal and not paint then the reflector test between all earthed points.


PS

I cannot emphasise enough just how important the earth connections are these are the most important connections in any electrical system and will cut out the supply in the event of a fault, as mentioned I would expect anyone attempting this project will have some experience with electrics if you can't wire a plug then DO NOT attemt this circuit. But saying that you don't need to be any wizard just half decent with your hands.

I hope this helps and wish every one luck any questions give me a shout.

just a couple of points
1) it might be worth while using high voltage/high tempreture cable\ sleeving on the cables from the control gear to the lamp base
2) double check youve wired the lamp base the corect way round,live from the ignitor to the center contact,neutral to the outer
3) why not use an ip rated plastic box?easier to work with and less chance of any coriosion problems
whatever ever box you use make sure youve got some ventalation holes

Good points hippy I stupidly forgot to mention my case had vents in the bottom. I don't think point one matters just route the cables away from the ballast.

its not just the temps,but also the high voltage that tends to roam around when the lamp strikes

But the flex on a unit from a shop is only standard 230 V.

Where can I buy one for £75 I thought they were more like £130, plus it can be used for repairs.

growell do a budget light, 600w digi ballast, run of the mill reflector and a phillips grolux bulb for 100 quid. i've bought a good few of them in my time. to me they seem to be reasonable for that price as i got loads of use out of them and the lads who i gave them to still tell me there going strong. i've also bought a good few expensive lights and the only real difference in practise to me was the reflector quality.

indeed it is,even the iec conector is olny rated at 250v,however the further you are from the ballast the less of a problem it becomes.

Seeked some advice on this hippy and they reckon manufactures fit standard insulation because it is over the top when manufactures they test the unit in the factory and are happy that it works fine (they are liable).

Core and coil ballast that mate.

Growell don't sell digital ballast AFAIK.

Marx