QUOTE(caned & able @ May 10 2007, 03:23 AM) [snapback]947488[/snapback]
Yo CyrstalFarmer, thanks very much for your comments

A contactor whats that? and yes it will be run on a timer
I hear alot about EC i dont know what thst is either, is it something to do with the amount of nutrients in the water?
You say you watered manually at fisrt, didnt the hydroponics system come complete with a reservoir and other necessary parts to water with?
Also is it necessary to have an intake rvk for a grow of this size, or would a passive intake or a 12cm computer fan do the job?
Another thing, I will be out most of the time and i will have to leave the lights burning and the water pumping while i am not there. If anything goes wrong, are there any safety cutouts in the equipment to avert disaster, like fire?
Thanks for your time, caned & able
The timer will fail if it tries to turn on a high power light. It could possibly be dangerous. You should buy a contactor or I think you can get timers with a built in contactor. Basically the timer turns on the contactor which turns on the light. Without one there is too much power going through the timer as the lamp ignites and it will blow.
EC is electrical conductivity, basically when something is disolved in water, the ions (charged atoms) conduct electricity. The EC meter measures this conductivity, and thereby telling you the strength of the nutrient solution. Without one, using a resevoir you will not no what the concentration is and will have to guess initially. You won't know how much nutrients the plants are taking up. For example, after the plant has been drawing up water, you could check the pH & EC and rebalance them if the levels are inappropriate.
Hydroponics is basically direct feeding the plants with ionic feeds as opposed to using compost where the bacteria in the soil convert the nutrients to a form which can be taken up by the plant.
Therefore, my 'passive hydroponic' grow (if you had a resevoir that would be an 'active system') consisted of a couple of trays, some pots filled with Canna Coco and some perlite and then I just watered them everyday.
It is best to run the lights at night, that way you can take advantage of the cooler nighttime temperatures rather than running during the day when the sun is out. The electricity can be cheaper this way and you have the advantage of being in the house when the lights are on. Get a smoke alarm in there just in case.
It would depend on the tent really. I have used a Green Room, Home Box & BudBox, the Homebox & Budbox have good passive intakes but the greenroom had an intake fan.
Air cooled lights are the business, I extracted into the carbon filter then through the light and out of the tent.
You can buy an RCD 'trip switch' that will trip the electricity but you should have a modern fuse box anyway.
My advice is to be careful with the ballasts, these can get extremely hot (depending on which one you have) and are the main problem. The worst thing is if the power cable comes out slightly, it will generate a lot of heat and could melt the plastic or set the ballast on fire. I always ensure that the power cables are secured properly. One of my ballasts has a direct cable and a locking mechanism so it doesn't come out but the other one has a join in the power cord and the power cable could easily come out of the ballast if knocked.
I think it costs about 24 grand to get a police helicopter in the air, they aren't going to be flying around wasting our tax payers money looking for a little heatspot.
I extract now straight into the loft.
Best wishes.
CF