All of my systems are usually tweaked mate or altered to suit me but all incorporate drippers as I myself think this is the best way of controlling feed.
As for food i'm a big believer in less is more so I only use a basic grow+bloom plus a pk13/14(boost).
My favourite food is Growers Ark Solutions and I rarely go over 1.5 ec.I think folk think that more food you give em bigger the plant but thats a load of bollux
Heres my hydro write up to save time
Owd’s Hydro
When I first started growing our beloved herb I, like many others, grew in pots outside and doing it indoors never really came into my head as there was not too much going on at that time. When I did look at the prospect of going indoors and growing hydro it frightened the life out of me. It looked and sounded far too technical for my limited technical part of the brain and I dismissed the idea straight away as being too much like hard work. I wished I hadn’t as hydro is not too technical and it isn’t too much work. You make it as easy or as difficult for yourself by the way you prepare and by not cutting corners from the off. All I'm going to do is to tell of my experiences and give you some of my top tips that have helped me over the years. Everyone’s way of growing is different, so what works for one may not suit another but here goes
1) EC + PH Meters:
I start with this as IMO it is essential to have both, now not for one minute am I saying you can’t do it without but they take all the guess work out of the equation. The really good thing is that you can monitor quite closely the uptake of nutes your plant is taking by regular readings on the EC meter. On numerous grows for reasons I have no idea, my plants have just virtually stopped feeding for around a week and in mid flower. I noticed this because of the EC readings climbing quickly in the tank. Although the plant looks fine and shows no signs at this stage of any problems they would show later if I hadn’t spotted it with the meter. I changed the res with a lesser strength nute mix and then with the readings again waited until they started to feed again. This then eradicates the problem of a toxic build up which would stress the plants. Without a meter there is no way that I would have known until the plant had shown signs of nute’ burn, which then is too late. Also by doing exactly the same with the PH pen, you can identify any problems early by any sudden changes in the readings.
While on the subject of EC, many ask about what strength they should mix their nutes up to. My answer to this is always the same, take no notice of the bottle and let the EC meter tell you what your plants are asking for by the readings either rising or falling.
A good starting point when you have just put your plants(cuttings) in your systems, and when I say systems I mean reservoir systems(not bubbling buckets and similar as these need weaker strength mixes) is to set the EC at 1.0 to start and when in flower 1.4.After a few days the plants will start to tell you whether they want more or less nutes by the readings. This way you have less chance of overnuteing your plants.
I try also to keep my plants around the 5.8-6.6 range (PH), and if it rises from 5.8 to into the 6's I don’t worry as at least the plant is getting a chance to get the full range if you like.
2) Topping Up:
One thing I would never advocate is topping up with just plain water. All you are doing is diluting what is there, e.g. your EC reading has risen and it’s at a high level, don’t just dilute it down with water to the required level because there could be one element in the nutes that the plant HAS used, so by adding water that certain element is still missing. If its only risen slightly then top up with a weaker strength nute and correct it that way. You then know that if you did have a missing element you are putting it back in to the mix. Or, the best way is to empty your tank completely if there has been a sharp rise and put in fresh nutes. But as mentioned before DONT CUT CORNERS - This only leads to problems.
3) Water Preparation:
I always stand my water with a small pump in to keep it moving for 24hrs before adding nutes for 3 reasons. 1) I stand it for 24hrs to get a true ph reading as the ph always reads lower when straight out of the tap. 2) Freezing cold water is no good, so it helps to get the water up to a more acceptable temperature (no more than 25deg and no less than 18deg). 3) It just lets the chlorine levels drop a little.
4) Oxygen:
It’s always a good thing to have plenty of air bubbling away, either in your res or on your tray amongst the roots, or even in the pot via a porous airline. Roots love oxygen, so give it ‘em, you will see a marked difference as it keeps your water more conditioned and there’s less chance of pathogens breeding. I, myself, use a pump to keep the water moving and also keep numerous air stones in my res.
5) NFT Systems:
I cut my teeth on NFT's as many do in hydro so have experienced most of the problems you get with this technique, so here goes:
Make sure that your correx tops are white and not black for obvious reasons. If you do have black then cover them with B+W or similar, but even if you have white then cover them also because believe me light penetrates through just one. Especially with HPS, the light will hinder root growth and encourage algae growth.
Also make sure that no light can get to them roots, and that’s down the side of the cubes aswell. Leave plastic wrappers on Rockwool and cover the cube, again to keep algae at bay and to stop your cube from going mushy. Tilt your system a little more to achieve a good run off. Also, where possible, use two spray bars to feed. One at the top and one half way down the table. It is possible that, especially on larger tables, a certain element can be taken out of the food by the plants at the top before it reaches the bottom ones, hence the two bars.
Keep check of res temps as this can be a big problem that is just overlooked and will cause you all sorts of probs.
Pithium I found to be one of the biggest problems in NFT and the main reason for it, for me, was that the roots were too saturated. I had pools of water on the tray when the pump wasn’t feeding(hence the bigger tilt)and was feeding too often. Some folk swear by running their pump 24/7 which is fine but it didn’t work for me. I ended up feeding 15mins every hour during lights on and 15mins every 3hrs lights off. So you have to find out what works for you but my advice is intermittent feeding.
6) Flushing:
Again personal preferences, but I always flush for at least two weeks from the end of the grow. The 1st week with a weak feed and the final week just 1ml of grow for 4 days and then with good old plain water (no adjusting)
One final thing that is so important is cleanliness. Keep your rooms and all equipment clean and after every grow make sure you give them both a very good clean and disinfect.
Happy Hydro’ing.
Owderb.
she's in good hands 
)
..Nah mate just someone who is passionate and keeps it simple..thats me