The spores that are already on the leaves will continue to develop. Citrofresh will only stop new spores from developing. Copper fungicide kills it but if you are in flower then its damage limitation time and Citrofresh is the only game in town.

It does what it says on the container. It doesn't do what you think it does.

thanks dude
i know that now Not A Number,i thought it fought fungi and eradicated it but it's just a protecter

thanks anyway dude

i wouldnt use it dude,are you in flower??if so dont use it m8,if still in vegg,mist away that fungi dude

well there you go

so its the copper fungicide wot will KILL the spores not the citro Not A Number,nice 1 dude
so i might as well ditch the citro until i get to flowering fungi probs,but if copper fungicide KILLS the fungi spores,then carry on spraying with citro,i will eradicate the fungi & live happily ever after
well sprayed with copper today,gunna stick with that & mist 1 week from today
thanks Not A Number!
take care
L NIN

I've had serious outbreaks of fungus this year (that and the borg) which just about wiped out every plant.

I thought I'd recovered on several occasions but no, so now I'm spraying citrofresh (5:1 mix) as a barrier control from the moment a plant pops its head above the ground. Anything that does get fungus is segregated and sprayed with copper fungicide (Murphys). I'm applying copper fungicide to all plants in the last week of veg then I'm continuing to spray Citrofresh as a barrier control every 4 weeks throughout flowering.

Once I have 2-3 crops done (without problems) I'll ease off on the spraying and see what happens. Environment is dialed-in at the moment so in theory I should have no problems. We'll see. One thing for sure though - 2006 has been the worst year for fungus I've seen and I hope to hell next year is better

Edit - you can't mist them weekly with a copper fungicide (if that's what you meant). Follow the guidelines for tomatoes as they are usually the nearest plant to cannabis listed on the pack

nice 1 there Not A Number m8
same statergy im going for now,im gunna try & kill the fungi off with copper ,mist twice(bish recomened it)
try & get them into shape a bit then flower with regular misting ov citro


feel for ya dude!!!!


same here man,just thought i was getting back on track then,BOOM,fungi attack out ov nowere


i hope so to m8,my pal has just shot the towel in with the growing till this fungi can be sorted

take care m8 & all the best dude

EDIT-heres my fungi,i grew it myself FUNGI
PEACE DUDE

bio-cept,6 quid out ma growshop,well worth it,not saying that it will work for everyone that has this feckin fungi,but it worked for me

cheers highpriest...just got rid of mine (fingers crossed) with citrofresh...but i'll keep this in mind if it pops up again...

no probz prawn m8,keep it green

Ive been suffering leaf spot for 3 generations now,I Thought I got rid on my 1st grow but it re-appererd on my second grow,and now its appeared on the newest clones ive taken,its a bastad to get rid of,you think its gone and before you know it its back.Anyway ill look for that stuff in my local grow shop,well worth £6 if it gets rid of leaf spot

i jiveturky ur right m8 it's murder,im still goin 2 gut ma growroom aftre this grow,for sure

Got leaf spot just before xmas, blasted it with citrofresh, got more leaf spot now, lots more...

have a look at THIS fatfreddy m8

i used citro then 2 days later the FUNGI was everywere man


i'v started useing copper,wich is holding it back even better man,citro was doing NOTHING m8(well working for 2 day's)but its took over a week to get 1 fungi leaf spot back after useing copper


take care m8

not arguing, but i spent £14 on the biosept concentrate to treat far more times than one sprayer... hasnt done me much good, the LSF is ripping my grow to bits

Im loather to buy citrofresh, as Ive heard as many ppl say its useless crap as have said its any use



SS

I think if you have fungus bad citro isn't going to do anything perhaps it will slow it a little. It is good for catching it when it first appears from my experience. The fungus is inside the plants and every two weeks or whatever it seems to re-explode.

from another LSF horror story/post:






citrofresh or not citrofresh, that is the question

The answer is: NOT CITROFRESH! well not for me anyway

Update to my problem, I been cleaning down the room regularly and removing damaged leaves as and when. Heaters bought to control temp and humidity better.

Its having some positive effect in flower room on the rate of reinfection, but its by no means gone and I'm getting tired of all the obsessive cleaning

In the veg room/nursery I have been using Copper F at 3g/L every 2 weeks, its really helping alon side temp and rh control with heater. However in a bid to achieve the same preventative control with non toxic ingredients I used citrofresh, and may have restarted the whole thing off again

Whatever is eating my babies thrives on both biosept hydroshite AND shitrofresh BEWARE! you could be wasting ££'s on completely useless snake oil crap, when £3 of copper fungicide will really help.

And get a decent heater(s) imo if ur spending under £30 (depending on jan offers) ur gonna get nothing but problems. For £30 you can get a good quality programmable thremostatic fan heater, with accurate digi thermometer makes life so much easier.


P.S. Perhaps Citrofresh/Biosept products have a preventative effect (perhaps so do prayers and classic FM ) but if you have a fungal problem, these products WILL NOT HELP imo, you need more decisive action and a more powerful 'weapon'.

Vive la Resistance !



SS

I have nearly eliminated the problem with good ventilation, a strong desktop fan blowing on the plants AND washing every flat surface including the floor twice a week with a CLOTH SOAKED IN NEAT THICK BLEACH.

Its working for me with any suspect leaf being removed asap.

No other expensive chemicals required.

Regards.

(similar to T1NEO's method)

Hi All.

I have read a lot of posts about people struggling with fungus in the growroom.
I havent had any bad fungus this grow.
I gave my plants a protective foliar spray with trichoderma yesterday to help the arial parts of my plants.

Im using Piranha powder (got a small bag cheapish), but any trichoderma should do the same.
It states that it is;

"effective foliar spray against fungi that attack plant foliage. (Ie Pythium spp, Rhizoctania solani, Fusarium spp, Botrytis cinerea (bud-rot) Sclerotium rolfsii, and Sclerotinia homoeocarpa)".

Just thought I would post as It might be of help to peeps with fungal probs.

Peace y'all
lsl

Citrofresh is organic at least, unlike copper.

The trichoderma foliar and a clean room is the only way I know to fight it.

You can also use an ozone generator to kill the air borne spores, this will be my next line of defense as it keeps coming back.
If you are going to use any fungicide on Young plants / seedlings then I would use it at half strength to start with
cheers
DDB

any more on ozone generators as thats something i have access to and im suffering with what i think is amassive fungal problem at the moment

Hi mate.
We bought an ozone gen that would give us a 0.1ppm concentration as this is whats needed to kill air borne
spores, (£300) this is a quite high rate, the recommended exposure is 0.02ppm so you have to take certain precautions, its also important to get the concentration worked out correctly as if its to high it can stunt plant growth, its calculated to take into account the extraction in the room so any change in that has to be allowed for as well, IE: less extraction at lights off. the machine is whats called a corona discharge type, they are better than the UV type and last longer, the machine will also totally disinfect the room if run for 3 hours with no extraction on, but plants will have to be removed, IE at the end of a grow.
We already had leaf spot so until we start a new grow ( approx 10 weeks) we can't say if this had cured the problem but I bloody hope so as we have really suffered with it and it effects the plant growth and yield badly
we have also been using systhane fungus fighter this helps but is not a cure even if used before the problem starts,
we know the fungus is air borne and varies from area to area as a mate 5 miles away from me has very little, to no problems, our room is 12x8x7 has two 8" rvk's extracting and two 6" pumping air in plus a lot of passive intakes, 4 box fans to circulate air as well so thats not the problem, its also throughly cleaned and then disinfected each grow with a sulfur candle.
You can help by putting carbon filter material or something with hepa filtering levels on all air intakes ( cooker hood stuff works) but this has to be kept clean so the air flow is not restricted.

Also we have found some plant strains are more resistant to it than others.

What I would like to know is once a plant is infected is the fungus then spread round the plant internally ???

HTH
DDB

thanks DDB thats much helpfull:)

I have a leaf spot fungi infection on my NL Fem.
I live in asia and its pretty humid. I have biobizz leafcoat...will this make a difference?

its all attacking the leaves and not the buds now....will it reach the buds?

hello mate, im in teh same situation as you , im nearley 8 weeks in and ive advanced lsf on two of my plants, ive found the spots do go up onto the leaflets on the buds, but they stop where the trichormes start
search through my posts mate as ive been suffering with this for a while

also any news on the ozone DDB

has anyone tried Dr Hornbys Piranha? I tried Murphys copper fungi killer or whatever & leaf coat from biobizz to no avial

Defo. Even varies from phenotype to phenotype...


Yep, once it gets severe it goes systemic.

You need to cut back all affected growth (allllllllllll affected growth) and use citrofresh.

If it's systemic, I'd probably start again, but I won't go near that copper shite...

has anyone tried Dr Hornbys Piranha? I tried Murphys copper fungi killer or whatever & leaf coat from biobizz to no avial O`Eirren

hi all, ive been reading this post scince last week, but thought i would wait to post (till i had tried something out)

i was very intrested in the garlic remedy, si i set about making a garlic spray, grated 2 cloves into a jar with a bit of warm water, shook it for 30 mins, let it sit for 30 mins, then diluted it, then sprayed, been using it about 4 - 5 days now, on most of the plants its done real good, still a few spots, but mainly on the plant i have in flower, the rest are looking alot better

good old garlic

is does effing reek though!

Hey all,

So many threads in which I could have posted this.... but I thought that this was one of the most comprehensive.

Just for info, I have been looking up the fungicidal properties of garlic on wikipedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Allicin). Seems its all down to a compound called allicin.

Wikipedia had this to say:

Allicin is a powerful antibacterial and anti-fungal compound obtained from garlic. Allicin is also the chemical constituent primarily responsible for the hot, burning flavor of fresh garlic.

Allicin is not present in garlic in its natural state. When garlic is chopped or otherwise damaged, the enzyme alliinase acts on the chemical alliin converting it into allicin. Allicin is an amino acid that does not build proteins.

Allicin is not a very stable compound. It degrades slowly upon standing and is rapidly destroyed by cooking. Allicin can be used for some medicinal purposes: it helps fighting arteriosclerosis, it has the ability to dissolve fats and it can also be used as an antioxidant to some extent.

I thought this was interesting because some of the recipes for garlic spray call for boiling in water, but this article gives the impression that doing that could reduce the effectiveness of your spray. *Maybe* instead, it would be better to just grate the garlic (better still, shred it in a blender to fully 'bruise' it, as it says above) and then soak for a wee while before spraying.

I have not tried this and cannot prove anything either way. Just thought you'd like to know

On my forth grow with this fungal menace now, I can't tell you how much I wish someone would find some permanent solution, I'm pretty much resigned now to the routine of spraying with fungus fighter every two weeks until flowering then fingers crossed that it doesn't decimate the crop. I have been using the same mums though (which will never give me a fungus free clone) so I suppose it's a case of waiting till I finish a crop then going mad with bleach, smoke bombs, the bloody lot, then starting from seed again... thing is I don't know if I can be bothered with all that if it's just going to float in from outside and re-infect everything again...Christ, if we can invent various chemical weapons that can kill army's then surely some white coat could invent something that kills fungus......dead.

Or you could try a biological agent that will consume the fungi ? If you already have conditions that a fungi will thrive in why not introduce another fungi that will predate and consume pathogenic fungi ?

Felix.

If you're using the same mums will it be possible to ever get rid of it?

May be possible to clean a mother with a systemic fungicide and then treat with Trichoderma to mop up anything on the surface of the leaves and stems. The initial wave of Trichoderma would probably be killed by the systemic fungicide but they could be continuously re-applied and would gradually reestablish as the levels of fungicide dropped within the plant. Clones could then be taken and used as new mothers free from the fungicide or maybe after several months the original mum would be free from chemicals.

As the systemic fungicide is internal and the Trichoderma external the Trichoderma may not be affected once it has been absorbed into the plants tissues but would be devastated by the initial spray I would have thought.

Did see a post about VAM's and systemic fungicides somewhere.

Now that sounds like a plan, nice one felix... I've been using a systemic for a while now (scotts) but have to do it every 2 / 3 weeks to keep em totally free in veg, but then after 4 weeks in flower it's back and I can't do bugger-all (chemicaly anyway) ... they finish without problem just a few manky leaves, thing is I could be getting a better yield as the plants are always ill
I'm happy enough with the yields I'm getting (nearly a gram a watt) but would like to see y'know?
anyway, I'll play around with this Trichoderma stuff and see what happens

That's the spirit

I'm going to try out some Pirhana (Trichoderma & Mychorizal <sp?) as a leaf drench to see if I can get rid of the lsf that has infected 2 plants in my room. Any idea on how many applications needed? Daily, every 2 days?

Thanks...

has anyone had success using Biosept during flowering to contain this problem?
i found a single SensiStar i have flowering for the first time, developed this problem and it seemed to appear on all its leaves in 48 hours. i binned it. other plants in the tent look fine so far, they are various SuperSilverHaze, MangoHaze and G13diesel and Gonzo. the G13diesel has very thick dark green leaves and so far looks tough as old boots! they all got a treatment of Biosept today before lights out.
i have increased air circulation with a couple more fans and the next job is to begin treating the mothers.
i notice round my area a lot of trees are showing signs of a fungal infection on their leaves as they begin to become autumnal.

Ok so it looked like the Pirhana (Advanced nutrients) worked for a few days then I checked out my plants this morning and LSF had come back for revenge Damn!!! I thought that I had it with the Pirhana... I am 5 days into bloom, so if I have read correctly I can use this fungas fighter stuff for another 14 days or so before I gotta stop right?

I am off to buy some right now! Might alternate spraying 1 week Fungas fighter... 1 week Garlic because this stuff is really REALLY aggresive! DOesn't help that I burnt my plants by letting water get to low on me NFT system Doh! I'll post back with my findings.

well, i found the Biosept to have no lasting effect on lsf. i got 2 applications from the 500ml spray bottle 4 days apart. it appeared to slow the spread down briefly but became obvious that it would be a waste of money to proceed further with it.
next up is the citrofresh concentrate, mixed at 50ml to 500ml water, to be honest its difficult to tell if this has any effect in slowing the spread during flowering. i am finding the indicas are the worst affected, some individuals are showing no signs of the lsf spread slowing where as others of the same strain seem to be coping.
the strains that are holding up the best, and i think this is all i will be growing next run, is the super silver haze, mango haze, and cristal haze.
the mother plants have been treated twice now with fungus fighter, soon i will begin trichoderma applications on them and make a difficult choice as to dumping the indica strains.
First time i have come across this LSF. Seriously, its like something out of '28 Days Later' it spreads that fast! as i said in my last post a number of trees in my area are showing signs of this problem and i am now making plans to move to a new address to try and limit the problem as it is obviously airbourne.
the pic is of a SensiStar which i had to bin as it became badly affected over a few days, it was the first to show symptoms and here is how it looked when they first showed.
Cor! its non stop excitement this this hobby of ours!

I have the same problem with trees on my street, unfortunately moving now is not an option... hope the Fungus Fighter works for us both mate! I tried Pirhana (trichoderma & mycorizal beneficial fungus) it slowed it down but didn't stop it. I think if the Fungus Fighter does work as described then spraying down every 5 days until 3/4 week bloom with trichoderma may well act as a preventative rather than cure.

Good luck, 28 days later

hi peter,
yes it seems treating plants in flower that are already infected is just a stop gap measure.
the key seems to be, from what i understand, is treating the mothers with a systemic fungicide and then colonising them with a tricoderma so that we are then fighting the lsf before it can turn the plant into its host. 'rootgrow' is a good cheap source of mycorrhizal fungi which i reccomend, and i will also be trying the 'canna tricoderma' i think, for regular leaf applications. and then all cuttings taken from the mothers for flowering are given the same treatments.

cheers and good luck to you also.

Indeed I concur doctor I am looking for a mother among the plants I am growing now, so I hope to be able to keep her in tip top condition using the method you describe above. Thanks for the heads up on rootgrow just read up a little on it and it looks like good stuff. I can attest for Canna's Trichoderma ability to add significant root mass. So I'd definately say Tricho was the way to go in colonizing leaves and oblitirating LSF before it takes over.

Thought I'd update yas on my progress with fungus fighter... seems to have held the infection up significantly. Affected leaf has reduced significantly, and leaves that had been cut back seemed to stayed fungus free. I did notice that other leaves that had been cut back lower down the plant now look like they are Nitrogen deficient (yellow) these were removed with any other LSF affected leaf found yesterday and I will spray again with Fungus Figheter or this new stuff I found called Fungus clear gun. It has something called penconazole in it and seems to deal with the same things Fungus Fighter does...

Here's a pic of the Fungus clear gun stuff:

http://www.uk420.com/boards/index.php?act=...t&id=184412

I also plan 2 more spray downs with Trichoderma & myco as described by Savage above... these will be 5 days apart first one in 3 days time and second one 5-6 days after that in the hope that the trichoderma & myco will keep LSF, rust & black spot at bay via colonizing the laves.

I am banking on this to work... after the 2nd application of Pirhana (trich & myco) the plants will be 21 days into bloom & flowers should be well on there way. I really don't wanna spray after this time but may do depending on advice.

SO my question is how long into bloom can the Pirhana/ water mix be used as a leaf drench? I would have thought week4 would be the latest you would want to be spraying anything onto budded plants at.

What say you.............

Hey people, im questioning the methodology presented in this thread for fighting LSF.

I dont have a great deal of eperience with LSF, until recently none but i have been experimenting and have manaegd to infect some plants of mine with what could loosely be called LSF, as this appears to be the label that is being used to describe any fungal infection atm, which is fine tbh fungal is fungal ey?

The thing is to infect my plants, all i had to do was turn the ventillation off, all of this spraying down with fungicides and contant effort if growroom cleanliness are, in my opinion, rather useless.

Although it might be (jsut about) possible to eventually kill all of the spores that are currently affecting your leaves, unless you are growing in an air tight and fan filterd box, there are ALLWAYS going to be spores there.

I do have quite a bit of experience growing fungus, and if i wanted to stop its development i would a) stop air exchange, which the fungus needs to grow, not an option here. decrease the humidity, which is what i am suggesting as a real solution to stopping fungus growth, unless this is some kind of super fungus the lieks of whch iver never seen, which doesn't care in the slightest about humidity?

The problem with that approach is that plants need air + humidity too. Taking away what the plant needs in the hope that it will kill the fungus isn't a great idea.

If you keep air movement up + in quantity, it helps keep the spores from settling. Most people get LSF because of inadequate extraction or lack of oscillating fans... some get it anyway, but it's usually down to air movement.

Cheers eri, i kinda think that no oscilation is likely to cause localised spots of higher humidity as well, i know plants need humidity, but surely they need far far less than fungal growth neh?

im also finding that SSH doesnt get affected, ive got skunk and ak47 which keep getting affected but every time the SSH is untouched.
im finding the only cure is systhane fungus fighter, if you soak the plant well enough it tends to hold it off for 4-5 weeks.
I dont like using the fungus fighter during flowering as it contains some nasties and is only reccomended for non edible crops, so i spray after the first week of flowering and the LSF doesnt usually come back till the last week ot 2 of flowering.