Hi again fellows! I've been reading and looking at pictures of fan-controller diagrammes for some days and need to get mine up and running soon. (Getting cold here now and I'm right in the mid-bloom of my main crop, so I wanna make it stable temp wise now)

Could somebody please help me understand this further?

I have 16A 220-240V course in my growroom.

For venting the bloom tent I use the lower wattage 125RVK now on a 15-300w light dimmer outlet, but wanna make something better and possibly usable for when I get my RVK160 soon. (It's about 90w I think, and the current 125 is only 35w or something.)

But over to the actual questions I have:

Here at my hand a couple of thermos and a simple 0,05-0,5A speedo, but hav trouble figuring how to wire. (Basicly I don't understand where output is and which terminals to connect at eachothers.... (Can't see where output is from the diagram either, maybe just because I'm all blank at this electronic language.)

Heres the speedo diagram and a pic of the following terminals: arrow up - arrow down - N - N - ~ w/slash "/" across the wave mark


(Due to file size I must send the thermo pictures in the next post... And do please bear over with me, as I'm new to this site and not familiar with all features yet.)

Here's my thermostats diagram, and the terminals are numbered 1 - 2 - 3 - 4


I'm not sure, but it seems like I some how can use this for both cooling/heating by changing the brown "L" between terminal 2 and 3.

(But is this device just supposed to (dis)connect the L and the N with each other at a given temp? -And if so: can I just have this thermostat remotely connected to the controller by a 2-3m long dual core flexible lamp-wire?

try to get a clear pic of that label on the thermostat, it will tell which is the cooling output and which is the heating output...my danfoss RMT230 had a label in much the same... there will be 2 numbers one with an arrow pinting up and one pining down...the up is heatng the down is cooling. on mine the input is one, the cooling output is 3 and heating is 2..... its most likely that 1 will be the live input for yours too...if logic is anything to with it but i dont know if it is. you can email the manufacturer and ask them what contact does what if you like. to test which is the cooling output you could wire an extension lead to it, connect the live from the plug to the input, dont cut the earth and neutral, then connect the other cut end of the live to one of the output, plug a radio into the socket and turn the dial to room temp, then use a hairdryer to warm the stat...if it switches the radio on as it heats up then your on the cooling contact....... if not try the next contact.... that label will tell you which 2 to test, it might even mean you dont need to.

ignore what i justposted..... it doesnt look like ur live input is 1 i dont want you to blow urself up....
OT1 did a diagram for one using a relay....you might need that as opposed to the simple method

up arrow live in,down arrow switched output,just give full power out when the unit is turned on,n is neutral,not needed,but handy if your wiing the unit inline and slash/squiggle is varible output

This is a great thread!! Just what I was looking for!!
Here is what I want to do:
I would like to have my inline fan set on two different speeds:

- idle speed so that it runs all the time to control the smell at night and when cooling is not required
- fast speed which gets triggered by a thermostat in the grow for heat exhaust.

So I guess instead of a light relay, what I want is a heat/thermostat relay.
Can this be done? Here's my grow box plan, the fan isn't drawn but it would be just between the hood and the can filter.


Thanx,
Pepe

the quoted post from ot1 is using TWO fan speed controllers so you can have a different slow speed for day and night.

all you need if you just want slow then fast at high temp is a thermostat and a speed controller

(i would use a variac or auto transformer as dimmer switches are actually quite bad for motors, they not only cause high slip due to low voltage running they also cause harmonics both of which cause over heating of ac motors and for capacitor run motors cause noise and vibrations, a 0.75 A variac is available from maplins for about £30 google it, this is what airforce fan controllers use)

Yeah, I already have a temperature fan controller, here it is:
http://www.midwesthydroponics.com/products.../scat_30158.jpg

And a fan speed controller (not a dimmer):
http://www.hydroempire.com/store/product_i...roducts_id/1225

And a digital timer as well:
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores...tegoryID=502289

As well as a 6 inch 449 CFM fan. I guess I would need one more fan speed controller if i want two speeds: idle and medium depending on heat during the day period.
But I wouldn't know how to wire all of this stuff up together to work properly.

I guess I should wire the fan to the idle speed controller. But if the heat gets above a certain level, I want to second speed controller (medium speed) to kick in. But how do I get the the temperature fan controller to switch from one speed controller to the other? I only know to plug the temperature fan controller to either on or off according to the temp.

The temperature fan controller doesn't really offer the option to switch from one speed controller to the other, it only has the option to turn the power on or off. How do i wire the whole thing so that the temperature fan controller switches from one speed to an other?

Another great one youve done whazzup.... its really great seeing all these you keep throwing out for us...
Im getting really interested in all this electronic stuff... I mean i like doing DIy stuff anyway and have done a few bits for my growroom following instructions, but I might buy a book on electronics for novices and a beginners kit like one of those kitchen timer or cycle timer kits or something like that and start to learn about electronics properly....
Id love to be able to make my own contoller using the remote probe thermostat module with hi/lo switching outputs and min max memory from Maplin instaed of a bought thermostat.... It would have that modules hi output switching between selected(variac/stepped) and full speed, and have a 24hour timer and a cyclestat circuit built in -the 24hour timer switching the whole system over from constant mode to cycling mode via a relay - ie the timer is set so that when the lights are on, the system runs constantly, the speed being controlled and switching to high when the temp rises. The 24hour timer(set to coincide with the lighting controller) switches over to cycling mode-ie running 1 minute every 6 minutes for example or whatever is the ideal. Being able to run it for cycles instead of being limited to the mechanical timer increments or unreliable digital timer that may not have enough settings anyway means you can have the ventilation off most of the time during dark period, but still not have stale/excessively humid air, obviously that depends on ur rooms size and conditions.
That Would be My ideal ventilation control system, -close climate control when the lights are on-but allows the fans only to be on just enough to keep the air fresh when they off -thats good if ur somewhere where noise from fans running late at night could get you busted, -my logic being the less time it spends running at night when theres no traffic and street noise to drown it out the less chance of someone hearing it. So better for it to be only on just enough to keep the conditions good.
anway nice work whazzup....you keep putting em out dont you, the growshops are tembling in fear

ill be using that finder relay you recmmended for my atc/5step setup.... my last post was just me throwing an idea around....
So u got an atc8oo huh.... I was super pissed when i saw they were outta stock... Im planning to get 2, and use one to contol my tank temps....
I look forward to seeing the 3step/atc unit you make

Hi All

Not a first time grower but first time in loft in NFT

God! I was unprepared for the massive task of enviromental control. managed to hold temps between about 27c lights on and about 18-19c lights out. this will fluctuate though depending on ambient temp outside.

This thread has been an interesting read but I was just wondering what would be the easiest and cheapest thermostat to buy and install to control the electric/oil heater i have in the room. Top temps at lights on arent a problem but lights out sometimes can drop quickly. The oil heater has a built in thermostat but not good enough for this aplication.

Any advise would most appreciated as at the moment im pulling my hair out and checking every 12 hours to adjust the enviroment.

pretty much any room thermostat will do the job mate, a lot of people go for honeywell stats, but whatever floats ya boat

Cheers Scrag - I'm heading down to screw fix today to purchase one, then see how i get on

Right, fresh back from screw fix and ive bought a Horstmann HRT3 room thermostat.

My next question is what is the correct way to wire this up so it will switch the oil rad on when temps drop below x degrees?

there are four connections, listed as per instructions,

1 - L (line/mains/Live supply)
2 - Do Not Use
3 - Load (Heat/Call for Heat)
4 - N (Neutral)

Any diagrams or walkthroughs would be a great help

well its pretty self explanatory isnt it???

Not when your paranoid about getting it right so you down burn your loft down

I am asuming the live to live, neutral to neutral, on load sends live as trigger to heater and neutral from heater runs back to plug?

if this is it then its going in this afternoon

run neutral from the heater back to the neutral in the thermostat, so you have one cable in from plug and one cabe out to the heater, but other than that, you're right

i dont understand this idea exactly.
there is 1 fan controller and there is also 1 thermostat.
for example,we set the fan controller as '' maxiumum''
also we set the thermostat as '' 27 celcius''

so,if the room's temperature is higher than 27,fan would work full speed .is this true ?
and if the room's temperature is lower than 27,which speed would fan work ?half speed ? or would fan stop ?

and for example again,i want fan to work at half speed when temperature of room is lower than 27.
and i want fan to work at full speed if temperature of room is higher than 27.
is this possible ? how?
(i read all topic and i tried to understand a but my english is not good ,sorry)

a thermostat is a simple switch, but rather than your finger pressing the switch, it does it automatically at the temperature you set it too. you set the fan controller to half speed and the fan is powered through this, when the temp climbs to your 27'c the thermostat switches the fan controller off and full mains voltage oto your fan to run it at full speed

shit,it is great thing..thanks mate.i will make my own.

sounds good to me, how would i find this seller on ebay? what would i tipe in the search box?

hi,
i was wondering how i wire my fan controller up to work with a thermostat.
i have done some drawings to show what i have, i have tried myself but keep blowing the fuse on the controller.
thanks for any help,

seriously!? all it is is a swithc, on or off! brown wire from controller to number 1, brown wire from number 2 to fan. neutral from controller to neutral on fan

ok,

where would i wire in the live/neutral to make the fan run at full speed then?
so the thermostat switches between low speed/ full speed.
thankyou.

hah, sorry, brown wire from plug to no.1. the thermostat simply bypasses the controller. connect the fan and controller as normal. then add the switch into the circuit, so when the switch closes, it puts the 240v from the plug, onto the the live going into the fan. it is an electronic controller and not a transformer/stepped controller

is this drawing what you are saying to do?

you got it

Hi all.
I'm trying to rig together a thermostat and Fan speed controller and
trying to figure out the instructions for my T6360B1028 (08 08 05)

The connections on the thermostat are from left to right:
Earth and 2 are the first two, which are stepped on the left as a lower pair.
Next are the highest set of three in the middle; 3, 4, 1.
Lastly, the last pair on the right are blank; 5 and 6.

The instruction leaflet has T6360/4360 printed on it.
There are three wiring diagrammes to choose from, one
having the name T6360B.

The wiring instruction diagramme is not quite straight forward for me!
From left to right; Earth..1..2..3..4.
1 is L, which swithches on to number 4.
N is 3, which has heating load and is joined to 2 with a squigly line.
The text underneath this reads:
Terminal 3: 10(3) A max. and Terminal 4: 6(2) A max.

Because the numbers are in a different order on the thermostat itself, compaired
to the diagramme provided, do I just go ahead and wire up the numbers?
1 being live and 4 being the switch. 3 would be the neutral.
Thanks in advance and pictures if ya need em.

Thanks.

OK, after much thinking and sweating, I've
done the impossible and wired it up successfully.

2 is the neutral.......4 is the switch........and 1 is the live.

There is a difference in air flow now, or until the thermostat
kicks in. However i'm also working on the idea of the expanding
foam to further reduce noise. Thought of it first, then seen it at UK420.

Yipee.......

Nice one.