Hello To all

While the site woz down I done a search in google about how to make some feminised seed wot I got back realy amazed me. If you Know how to do it could you please post a or many reply's because as a meddie user I would like to keep my plants to a min and fem seed is the way to go, Ive read that you can pollenate a female plant from another plant that has been stressed by adding one hour of blue light in the middle of the dark period for the first two weeks of flower this will cause the plant to throw male pollen that carrys the female genetics and if you use this pollen to pollenate another female you have then created your own feminised seed.......



This is realy cool but is it true and wot else can I do as fem seed cost so much my sick money don't cover it and the aim is to get as many fem plants from seed that is posible dutch passion recon that if you use their seed and grow under the conditions they set out wich I could not make head or tail of you will get 100% fem plants

Any help on this matter would be gratefully accepted

Regards to ALL Sexygitt

If I was in your position I wouldn't waste my time or money with the femmed range (although there are some cheap femmed ones in the DP range in the shop). IMO you would be better served by buying a normal packet and selecting the best female from the ones that germ.

From this female you can clone and root as many cuttings as you please and keep the strain going. With the other females, you could just flower them off.

It's up to you, but I don't know about all that blue light business to make feminised seeds.

Sorry, but hope you get what you're after.

I hear wot you say but it is a verry interesting topic none the less and would like to get all the pro's and con's on the subject just for interest sake if nothing else

This is wot another Dood said

"Feminised seed is nothing more than seed from a hermie plant or from a normally female plant that induced with stress has thrown some male flowers and self pollinated. One can do that with the application of gibberillic acid."

Help this is getting more interesting Please keep posting

Regards Sexygitt

I hope wherever you're getting your info from they tell you that feminised seeds have a tendency to go hermie on you.

Whereas a female from a normal pack of seeds will be genetically stronger.

I heare you so ill post wot this other dood said

"Truely feminized seed are easy to produce and do not require gerablaic acid. Start with a known good female. Through stress and light poisoning force it to turn hermie. The resulting hermie and its pollen will only posess female genetics. Use that plant to pollenate another known good female. The resulting seeds will all be feminized and produce only female plants. A number of larger seed banks/companies use this method exclusively."




Not sure wot to make of all this because they seem to be quite adament

All info has been gotten from the internet and is none of my own


Ive got more loads more Just not sure if i am alowed to post other peoples posts

all the help on the subject would be gratefully accepted so keep posting and mabey we will get to the bottom of the subject I.E. all the pro's and con's regarding feminized seed

Regards Sexygitt

This is another post I found It just get's cooler and cooler please remember this is not my work it has been taken from other people's posts

This is wot he said


"A couple of years ago Dutch Passion released an essay on how to increase mostly females from a pack of seeds. This is an excellent piece of work and has helped me to gain more of an interest in this area. In the past few years I have come to develop my own systems to get those ratios on the up and up. Right now I am very happy to report a real increase in my females from standard seeds. Sometimes as high as 90% to 95% on a consistent basis. So how is it done?




I prefer standard seeds for numerous reasons. The first reason being that feminized seeds come from hermie plants. Whichever way you look at it, the specially treated plants are hermed and this trait is often expressed in the offspring where conditions are less than optimal. Even with standard seeds the hermaphrodite condition is still achievable where stress occurs. I seem to have noticed that the two most stressful conditions which can cause the hermaphrodite trait occur before flowering in the vegetative phase of growing is around the 3rd to 4th week of growth before pre-flowering when the plant undergoes either heat stress or a problem with the 24/0 or 18/6 photoperiod (whatever vegetative photoperiod you choose doesn’t matter, as long as disruptions don't occur). Even during the initial stages of calyx development males and females are obvious side by side at the node region. This is hermaphroditism due to vegetative growth problems. In the flowering period, hermaphrodites generally occur quicker because of an irregular photoperiod than anything else and heat stress certainly helps bananas to pop up in with the bud. Now, even Sinsemilla crops will herm towards the end depending on the strain. I don’t class this as a typical case of hermaphrodites. It is just something that some strains naturally do towards the end of the Sinsemilla procedure.





Anyhow for starters we better reproduce what Dutch Passion have to say about there feminized seeds first.


"Feminised Cannabis Seeds"

Courtesy of Dutch Passion

In November 1998 we introduced our "Female Cannabis Seed". We did this after our own experiments showed that from female seed, we acquired almost 100% female off-spring.

In the meantime we are six months further on . We have received a lot of feed-back from our customers. The reactions are mostly positive, clients who have successfully produced almost 100% female off-spring. However there have been reactions from customers who found a few hermaphrodites or males plants. Apparently environmental influences affect the sex of the female seeds as well. Because of the fact that Female seeds do not grow into female plants under all circumstances, we changed the name from "Female Cannabis Seeds" into "Feminised Cannabis Seeds".

From literature and from our own findings it appears that the growth of a male or a female plant from seed, except for the predisposition in the gender chromosomes, also depends on various environmental factors. Not only the origination of entirely male or female plants is partly affected by these environmental factors, the number of male and female flowers on a hermaphrodite plant is affected as well. The environmental factors that influence the sex of the plant (or the flower in the case of hermaphrodites), are among other things:

1.The quantity of nitrogen and potassium of the seedbed.

2.Humidity and moistness of the seedbed.

3.Level of temperatures.

4.Colour of the light used.

5.Length of daylight.

Stress, any form of stress, makes that more male individuals will originate from seed. Even the taking of cuttings from female plants may produce male or hermaphrodite cuttings.
To optimise the result, changes in one or more of the above-mentioned environmental factors for a certain period during growth, may be applied. During this time these environmental factors will deviate from the standard growing system for maximum harvest and quality, as described in nursery literature. The desired change(s) in the environmental factor(s) are started from the moment that the seedling has three pairs of real leaves (not counting the seed-lobes). This is the moment that male and/or female predisposition in florescence is being formed. After approximately two weeks the standard growing system can be reconverted to.
Of the 5 above-mentioned environmental factors the first three are the most practical:

1. Level of nitrogen and potassium of the seedbed: A heightening of the standard level of nitrogen makes for more female plants originating from the seeds. A lowering of the nitrogen level shows more male plants. A heightening of the level of potassium tends to show more male plants, while a lowering of the potassium level shows more female plants. A combination of a higher nitrogen level for the period of a week or two and a lowering of the potassium level is recommended.
2. Humidity and moistness of the seedbed: a higher humidity makes for an increase in the number of female plants from seed, a lowering for an increase in male plants. The same is valid for the moistness of the seedbed.
3. Level of temperatures: lower temperatures make for a larger number of female plants, higher temperatures for more male plants.
4. Colour of light: more blue light makes for female plants from seed, more red light makes for more male plants.
5. Hours of daylight: few hours of daylight (e.g. 14 hours) makes for more female individuals, a long day (e.g. 18 hours) makes for more male plants.



Now let me just make a few adjustments here to this. You can do whatever you want to your plants in seedling stage and early vegetative stage of growth and it will not effect your final male to female ratios. The time when things should be near perfect is in or around the 3rd to 4th week of vegetative growth. This is the CRITICAL TIME for getting those female ratios up and up. I realized this clearly when noticing how some plants hermed because of problems that occurred around this period of the plants development. If the problems occurred before this time - no herms. So for this reason I surmised that this is when the crucial gender selection is made by the plant. Now I believe that the genders are set in the seed however the environment has a massive impact on how this is expressed in the final phenotypic expression of the plants gender. There are probably many genes that govern this, however lets get into how to up these female ratios.

At the 3rd to 4th week of vegetative growth make sure that your plants are free from stress. No pests attacks, no fungi attacks, no mold, no irregular photoperiod, not underwatered, not overwatered, not pruned or topped, a cannabis friendly soil mix, not recently transplanted, no small pots. If have these basic growing conditions under control then we can move onto the real forces of female production from standard seeds.

N:P:K and nutrients. What this simply boils down to is that you have the right nutrients present in the right ratios. A nutrient formulation that has roughly equal parts N, P and K is great but if the P levels go up or the N levels go down you are starting to look at a flowering type food for cannabis. If you do this then your odds of producing mostly females is greatly decreased. Make sure that you get those N, P and K levels to almost run from higher to lower amounts from N to P and K. I have noticed that equal portions of N to P an K can help with the female ratios but the higher N is certainly more helpful. So around the 3rd of 4th week of growth make sure that the ratios are good and that P or K has not gone above the N and P or else more males will occur. Obviously this means to avoid overfeeding your plants around this time too.

Never let your medium dry out completely around the 3rd to 4th week of vegetative growth. If you make sure to water occasionally, but not to overwater your plants, you will get those female ratios on the up and up. Overwatering or drying out of the medium will only produce more males. For consistent results in getting more females keeps those mediums moist.

Humidity. Now this is the tricky one. High humidity levels only promote fungi and mold development and lowering humidity levels is the way to cure most of this rot but by keeping those humidity levels up in or around the 70 rH factor will help to produce more females. If you have a low humidity grow room then you should get to hold of a humidifier. Now high humidity levels like 70rH cause the medium to dry out a lot quicker so you got to keep this under control too. Keep those mediums moist and those rH levesl at 70. This will help to improve those female to male ratios. Again, getting them on the up and up.

If you run the 24/0 photoperiod then do not allow those temps to go anywhere above 85 unless you have an equatorial strain. 75 is the best but going a little lower is not a problem for helping those female ratios. If you can get in at around 65 then those females are going to be popping up all over the place. The problem with this is that some growers like to use the 18/6 photoperiod and when the lights are off the temps drop from around 65 to 50 and even less. Try not to be below 55 because this has the adverse effect on the plants producing more males than females. Again between 65 and 75 is where you want to be during the 3rd to 4th week of vegetative growth, the preference being 70.

Invest in a MH Light for vegetative growth. Dump the HPS bulb for flowering later. I have noticed that HPS lighting during vegetative growth simply sends those males to female ratios all over the place. With MH lamps the females are everywhere. Invest in some MH HID lights. It makes all the difference in getting those females to show more often. This is worth repeating! MH Bulbs produce more females under optimal conditions especially if they are present during the 3rd and 4th week of vegetative growth. Surprising enough you can start seedlings under HPS and it will not have an effect on those female ratios. Again the 3rd to 4th week of vegetative growth is what is important here.

No stress during the 3rd to 4th week of vegetative growth. That is all there is to it. If you got your garden growing in optimal conditions without plant stress then the impressive 90% to 95% females start to emerge from standard seed packs. I find that topping is best done at the second to third week of vegetative growth but that this is a little stressful and can lead to those female ratios dropping again. Avoid topping or pruning if you are looking to up the female count.

That is all I have to say for the moment. These little snippets of information in conjunction with what DP uncovered have helped my female ratios considerably. Hopefully you can see the same results too. Have fun getting those environments optimal for females!!!!!!!!


Cannabis sativa is a naturally dioecious species with heterogametic males ( 2n = 18+XY ) and homogametic females ( 2n = 18+XX ). The sexual differentiation of C. sativa is strongly influenced by environmental factors such as temperature and photoperiod. Anomalies also occur in floral development like the presence of reproductive structures of the opposite sex, or the development of bisexual inflorescences (monoecious phenotype).



By means of optical microscopy, we have identified the earliest step of apex sexual differentiation as the leaves of the fourth node rise on. More than 50% of the samples observed at this stage have indeed developed some floral meristem buds.



In order to identify the genes involved in these earliests stages of the sexual differentiation of C. sativa, we have carried out an analysis of gene expression by means of the cDNA AFLP technique. Apices from the fourth node of male and female plants, grown in controlled conditions were collected, than the mRNA was extracted and used as template for the cDNA synthesis. Double stranded cDNA was digested with the restriction enzymes BstY1 and Mse1. Analysis of amplified fragments obtained using 60 combinations of the BstY+1 and Mse+3 primers enabled us to identify few hundreds of fragments with an apparent differential expression in male and female samples. In order to verify their actual differential expression, these fragments were eluted from the gel and re-amplified with the same primers combinations that were used to generate them. Subsequently they were blotted in double copies and than hybridised respectively with the total cDNA from males and females apices collected at the fourth node. This approach allowed the reduction of the fragments number to 12. Subcloning and sequencing will permit to track back to the genes having a differential expression at this stage of sexual development of C. sativa and that may be involved in its regulation.

Thanks to everyone who enjoyed reading this thread. I am sure it has been a pleasure seeing those ratios get better with the information here. The above is confirmation of what I have been saying all along. Also I would like to point out that biology at this point in time does not really recognize Indica or Ruderalis as cannabis species which is why it only documents Cannabis Sativa L.

Peace and good wishes to all...."

I think This is a verry smart man and he seems to be happy with wot he has achieved so please keep posting any info you have on the subject and mabey somthing good will come of it

And I have more to post but you will have to wait till I get conformation from a site administrator to confirm that it is ok to post other peoples work taken from the net

Regards Sexygitt

For about £13 you can buy a solution for the job called seed soak which will last quite a while. Or soak the seed in egg white for a couple days before cracking.

G-WHIZ is giving you some sound advice!

I would NEVER buy fem seeds!

why not

1. Good chance they go hermi on you

2. They are usualy 3 times the price of regular seeds.

3. My germ rate and fem rate with regular seeds IS 99% germ and I have only had 1 boy out of 50 seeds. I now have 4 mothers

You can post other peeps post if you want, as long as whoever you're quoting is mentioned.

Isn't he asking how to make them, rather than wher,e and wether or not to buy them?

Sexygit, keep a bonsai mother of your favourite lines, you'll then have a never ending stock of fresh cuts!

Sending your plants hermi, isn't the best idea! Pollen is the last thing you want floating around your growspace! Especially for the sake of a few seeds, that will be genetically prone to hermi'ness!

giberellic acid, when used sparingly, will also improve bud denstity and size. but if you use too much, will give you a nice bunch of bannana's!

VRG

This is a new one wot will the egg white do to the seed in regards to feminized and where do i get the seed soak

Regards sexygitt

The problem i have is that i onley took the inportant bits from the text and there is so much that i can't remember where i got all of it from just that it woz a search in google so if i give any one the hump just tell me and ill go about removing the text


regards sexygitt

could you post how you get your high fem rates so as i could read it and others too


regards sexygitt

There's a thread here about egg whites.

Seeing as no one has actually tried this yet, it may be a complete waste of time.

So come on Sib, get those beans in ya egg white cos WE all wanna know

Nowt mate!



Keep a steady temp, grow them under blue light, and give them plenty of tlc!

Plant 10 seeds, and chances are you'll get maybe 60% female, and 40% male. But remember, your only looking for 1 female!

VRG

This is another method that has been posted and I found it in google



How To Reverse Sex Using A Silver Thiosulfate Solution

The following is a safe, inexpensive, and successful method for reversing the sex of female cannabis plants. Individual plant responses may vary based upon strain, but I can verify that this process is fully effective in stimulating profuse staminate flower production. This process can be used to:

A: create new feminized seeds from solitary prize mothers that you currently have

B: create interesting feminized-seed hybrids from different prize strains that you currently have

C: create feminized seeds for optimum outdoor use

D: accelerate the "interview" phase of cultivation, in searching for interesting new clone-mothers

E: reduce total plant numbers- great for medical users with severe plant number restrictions

F: increase variety, by helping to create stable feminized seed lines to be used as an alternative to clones

It is important to educate yourself about the cannabis breeding theory and technique prior to using a method like this one. Here is a link to Robert Clarke's "Marijuana Botany", which is a very good reference.

Marijuana Botany" by Robert Connell Clarke

(Unfortunately missing the appendices)

http://www.geocities.com/hempgenes/Botany.html


Preparation of STS:

First, a stock solution is made. It consists of two parts (A and that are initially mixed separately, and then blended together. Part A is ALWAYS mixed into part B while stirring rapidly. Use distilled water; tap water may cause precipitates to form.

Wear gloves while mixing and using these chemicals, and mix and use in a properly ventilated area. A mask will prevent the breathing of any dust, which is caustic. STS is colorless and odorless, and poses minimal health risks if used as described here. Note that silver nitrate and STS can cause brown stains upon drying, so spray over newspaper and avoid spilling.

Part A: .5 gram silver nitrate stirred into 500ml distilled water

Part B: 2.5 grams sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous) stirred into 500ml distilled water

The silver nitrate dissolves within 15 seconds. The sodium thiosulfate takes 30-45 seconds to dissolve.

The silver nitrate solution (A) is then mixed into the sodium thiosulfate solution ( while stirring rapidly. The resulting blend is stock silver thiosulfate solution (STS).
This stock solution is then diluted at a ratio of 1:9 to make a working solution. For example, 100ml of stock STS is added to 900ml of distilled water. This is then sprayed on select female plants. Both the stock STS and the working solution should be refrigerated after use, as well as the powdered chemicals, to avoid activity loss. Excess working solution can be safely poured down the drain after use (with ample running water) with negligible environmental impact. It's pretty cheap.

Each liter of stock STS will make ten 1-liter batches of working solution of STS. With the minimum amount of base chemicals ordered from Photographer's Formulary this means that each 1-liter bottle of working solution STS costs less than 9 cents, and can treat 15-20 mid-sized plants. That's 200 1-liter batches of STS for $18. Note that the distilled water costs far more than the chemicals.


Application:

The STS working solution is sprayed on select female plants until runoff. Do the spraying over newspaper in a separate area from the flower room. You probably won't smell anything, but ventilate anyway. You now have what I call a "F>M plant"; a female plant that will produce male flowers. After the F>M plant dries move it into 12/12 immediately. This is usually done three to four weeks prior to the date that the target (to be pollinated) plants will be ready to pollinate. Response times may vary slightly depending upon the strain. More specific times can be determined by trial with your own individual strains. In my trials it took 26 days for the first pollen. 30-35 days seems optimum for planning purposes.

So, assuming that a target plant needs 3-4 weeks to produce fully mature seeds, a strain that takes 8 weeks to mature should be moved into flower at about the same time as the female>male plant. A target plant that finishes flowering in 6 weeks needs to be moved into flower later (10 days or so) so that it doesn't finish before the seeds can fully mature.

A seeded individual branch can be left to mature on a plant for a bit longer, while harvesting the other seedless buds if they finish first. Just leave enough leaves on for the plant for it to stay healthy.


Effects:

Within days I noticed a yellowing of the leaves on the F>M plants. This effect persisted for two weeks or so; after this they became green again, except for a few of the larger fans. The plants otherwise seemed healthy. No burning was observed. Growth stopped dead for the first ten days, and then resumed slowly. No stretch was ever seen. After two weeks the F>M plants were obviously forming male flower clusters. Not just a few clusters of balls, but complete male flower tops. One plant still formed some pistil late flowers, but overall it was predominantly male.

When the F>M plants look like they may soon open and release pollen, ( 3-1/2 to 4 weeks) move them from the main flower room into another unventilated room or closet with lighting on a 12/12 timer. Don't worry too much about watts per square foot; it will only be temporary.

When the pollen flies, move your target plants into the closet and pollinate.
A more controlled approach is to isolate the F>M plants in a third remote closet (no light is necessary in this one, as they are releasing pollen now and are nearly finished anyway). In this remote other closet the pollen is very carefully collected in a plastic produce bag or newspaper sleeve and then brought back to the lighted closet, where the target plants are now located. If this is done, be careful to not mix pollen types by letting the F>Ms dust each other. Avoid movement, or use yet another closet.
Take special care to not let pollen gather on the outside of this bag- a static charge is sometimes present. Drop small open clusters of blooms inside and then close the bag at the mouth and shake. Important: next, step outside and slowly release the excess air from the bag, collapsing it completely, so that pollen doesn't get released accidentally. Point down wind; don't let it get on your hands or clothes.
This collapsed pollinated bag is now very carefully slipped over only one branch and is then tied off tightly at the mouth around the branch stem with a twist tie or tape, sealing the pollen inside. Let the bag inflate slightly with air again before sealing it off, so the branch can breathe. This technique keeps the entire plant from seeding. Agitate the bag a bit after tying it off to distribute the pollen. Don't forget to label the branch so you know which seeds are which. Other branches on this same plant can be hit with different pollen sources.

If no lighted closet is available, the plant can be moved back into the main room, but be very careful: pollen is sneaky. After 4-5 days, the bag is gently removed and the plant completes its flowering cycle.

Yet another method has worked well for me. I position the target plants in a non-ventilated lighted closet, and then I collect pollen on a piece of mirror or glass. This is then carefully applied to the pistils of one pre-labeled branch by using a very fine water color Paint brush. Care is taken to not agitate the branch or the pollen. No sneezing. The plant needs to be in place first; moving it after pollination can shake pollen free and blow this technique.

Regardless of technique, at completion you will have feminized seeds. Let them dry for 2-4 weeks

About the chemicals:

Silver nitrate is a white crystalline light-sensitive chemical that is commonly used in photography. It is also used in babies' eyes at birth to prevent blindness. It can cause mild skin irritation, and it stains brown. Avoid breathing. I didn't notice any smell or fumes, but ventilation is recommended. Be sure to wash the spray bottle well before you use it elsewhere; better yet: devote a bottle to STS use. A half gram is a surprisingly small amount; it would fit inside a gel capsule


HERE IS HOW TO PRODUCE MOSTLY FEMALES FROM STANDARD SEEDS

As a grower I always believed that the seed was genetically predisposed to its sexual orientation as soon as fertilization of the ovule took place in the female. Basically this means that if you take a single female plant and produced seeds from her that the ratios are already set in the offspring. If a gender detection test could be established the males could be separated from the females there are then. If this where true then the breeder’s packs of ten seeds per pack could easily turn out to be all males or all females because of this genetic predisposition. However this is not the case!

One of the areas of my interest was in the feminized seed programs that so successfully charged through-the-roof prices on seeds that are reported to grow all females. However, as many growers here like myself have experienced - this is not always the case either! Feminized seeds work on the bases that there is a genetic predisposition for the plant to produce females because of special treatment that it gets in the selfing stages of a unique XX female. I won’t go into this in detail here because there is enough information on the process across the entire internet. Anyhow, in an optimal growing environment it is very easy to produce ALL females from these treated female plants. OPTIMAL is the key word here because in less than optimal growing conditions strange things start to happen to these feminized seeds.



In a single pack of feminized seeds a grower can produce:

Females.

Hermaphrodites.

Males.



Yeah, that’s right Males so where are the males coming from and how are they making there way into the feminized seed process. The answer is a very simple one. Sex is not completely determined in the cannabis plant until a few weeks before flowering. We will talk about this in a moment but now back to the feminized seeds.

In optimal growing conditions feminized seeds will kick out 100% females. This says a lot for growing conditions and the actual role they play on cannabis gender development. How
Many times have growers seen these effects of multiple genders from Feminized seeds? The answer lies clearly in how well they grow. Growers who are growing in non-stressful conditions will never see the male effect from feminized seeds and so hence it does not exist for them. However over a period of time and different growing techniques the grower will eventually see these results when growing in less than optional environments.

MALES !!!!

For this reason growers who choose feminized seeds should be forewarned to get their growing environments down to a T. If you prevent stress then you prevent males and hermaphrodites appearing in a feminized seed population. It is as SIMPLE AS THAT.



Another smart dood in my book

please keep the replys up

regards sexygitt

So the jist of things as far as ive got is that feminized seed's are realy good but the reason for hermie plants is most likley down to stress of some sort the most inportant being when in flower the light and root so don't get light stress and make sure your nutes are correct your temps are cool and your root's have plenty of space dont let your mix get asidic as this will cause hermies so ph is of the most inportant and nomater how you get your fem pollen you will always get hermies if your grow conditions are not correct evan if the plant is a clone from a normal female so is feminized seed bad because normal seed not growen under the correct conditions will go hermie





Keep posting ppl ive not got to the bottom of this and would so like to get it right thankyou to all who help in advance


Regards to all sexygitt

This is a later report done by dutch passion I think they are on to somthing because the plant has been manipulated by man for maney years now and there is a lot of info out there so any little bit helps please please keep posting






From Dutch passion


In an experiment done in 1999 we grew 15 varieties of "feminized" seeds. We started with 30 seeds per variety. The goals were: 1) to determine the percentages of female, male, and hermaphroditic plants. 2) To compare the uniformity (homogeneity) among plants from "feminized" seeds with those grown from "regular" seeds.

1. The results were excellent. Nine out of fifteen varieties had 100% female offspring. Percentages of female plants from the other 6 varieties were between 80 and 90%. These plants were all hermaphrodites, producing their male flowers at the end of their lifecycle. Seed-setting hardly took place. No males were found.

2. Approximately 70% of the plants of varieties grown from "feminized" seeds were far more uniform than plants grown from "regular" seeds of the same variety. About 20% of the varieties were a little more uniform, while in 10% of the varieties no difference in uniformity was seen. From literature and our own findings it appears that the growth of a male or female plant from seed, except for the predisposition in the gender chromosomes, also depends on various environmental factors. The environmental factors that influence gender are:



1 a higher nitrogen concentration will give more females.
2 a higher potassium concentration will give more males.
3 a higher humidity will give more females.
4 a lower temperature will give more females.
5 more blue light will give more females.
6 Fewer hours of light will give more females.

It is important to start these changes at the three-pairs-of-leaves stage and continue for two or three weeks, before reverting to standard conditions.
To produce our feminized seeds, we start with selected female clones. Under standard conditions these female clones do not produce any male flowers. By the method we found, we are able to have these female clones produce abundant male flowers and pollen. The pollen thus produced we use for the production of our "feminized" seeds.

Dutch Passion have been producing feminized seeds for years now - way before some of the other breeders started to convert their stock to feminized. If you grow D P fem seeds in optimal conditions you will hit the 100% mark every time.

Regards sexygitt

Seed soak should be avaliable from a good grow shop, and i'm in the process of growing one that has been soaked in egg white. Egg white contains high levels of estrigen which is a female hormone. I've never used this way before it was passed onto me from a hydro grow shop owner who uses this for his grow.

Sibs, can you ask your mate to come and post here and enlighten us with some scientific facts about his claims, because this egg white business sounds like a crock of shite to me mate

How do you stop the egg white going off and spoiling your beans ?

Thank god im not a woman because estrogen is also wot contributes to breast cancer and after brest cancer op's the woman is given another drug to supress this hormone

Just wot ive read

regards sexygitt

Will do joolz mate soon as i see him next i'll gather more info etc etc
I took it as being sound info for 2 reasons the 1st being he's a mate the second he stopped me spending more money in his shop. I suppose the best way to try it is do a load of non branded seeds and see if any go male on me? If so that'll have to wait til next outdoor season. Soon as i know more so will you

The bigest part of the puzzle is in the blue light spectrim the problem i have is that about 12 years ago i read a book I got in amsterdam from the interpolm amsterdam home grow shop Pr.Hendrikkade nr.11 1012 tk Amsterdam Tel:(020) 627 77 50 The book who's name I can,t remember coverd the blue light spectrim wich acording to the book woz the nutt's thing to do to your plant in the creation of female plants the experiment covered exposing the plant to the light from the blue spectrim with a light from the white spectrim but I can't remimber wot the sequince woz I can't find the book anyplace in the house been looking for weeks so if anybody could let me know of any idea's or evan the fact's ill be extreamly gratefull

regard's to all Sexygitt

And the book came with a pack of 10 standard durban poison seed the book went on to say that thease seed where easy to make fem the result using the fact's stated in the I.E. do the experiment you would get 100% female plants because the blue light exposed to the seedlings at certain times of it's life will alter the genetics because of the exposure to the blue light This is as much as I can remember so please could some kind person put me out of my misery it's murder got a memory block or somthing and I would like to do the experiment so hopefully ill get the awnser



regards sexygitt

This Looks prettey cool found this lunch time


Asprin


I hear many arguments if people should buy feminized seeds or not. I recommend buying normal seeds so you have both male and female. Then when they flower, separate the males and females. DONT KILL THE MALES LIKE YOU USUALLY DO. Then feed the males with with ASPRIN. You know...Bayer or St. joseph. Feed them the aspirin just like you would feed them your nutrients. For example, i have a 3.5 gallon bubbler bucket, i feed them with new nutriets every three weeks. Same thing with the aspirin (after flowering) i feed them 1 crushed 80mg tablet every three weeks. After the aspirin treatment, the hormones in the males should change dramatically. When both male and female are ripe, you should begin the mating process. Heres a trick i picked up to easily mate (i forgot the site). Get a wet brown paper bag, and put it on the male branch. Tight the opening of the bag with a rubber band and shake the branch for 15 minutes. Quickly take it to a female branch, tighten the opening and wait for the bag to dry. after it drys, shake the branch for 30 minutes. The females should be fertilized and wait a few days for the seeds to ripen. Plant the seeds and they should come up female in the future. When i feed the asprin to the males, i play it safe and put in one tablet. You might have better luck putting more in (like 1 tablet per gallon). I only tried this once and i had good success. Can some one try this and tell me their success? I never tried giving both sexes asprin...


This bloke swears it works looks like ill give that a try when I can

Regards sexygitt

Also found this



Gibberellic Acid

Gibberellic Acid (http://www.crfg.org/tidbits/gibberellic.html).
Effects of Gibberellic Acid
Overcoming dormancy. Treatment with high concentrations of GA is effective in overcoming dormancy and causing rapid germination of seed. Concentrations of about 2 ppm can cause tubers to sprout earlier.
Premature flowering. If a plant is sufficiently developed, premature flowering may be induced by direct application of GA to young plants. This action is not sustained and treatment may have to be repeated. Formation of male flowers is generally promoted by concentrations of 10 to 200 ppm., female flowers by concentrations of 200 to 300 ppm. Concentrations of more than 600 ppm markedly suppresses initiation of both male and female flowers.
Increased fruit set. When there is difficulty with fruit set because of incomplete pollination, GA may be effectively used to increase fruit set. The resulting fruit maybe partially or entirely seedless. GA has increased the total yield in greenhouse tomato crops both as a result of increased fruit set and more rapid growth of the fruit.
Hybridizing. Pollination within self-incompatible clones and between closely related species may some times be forced by the application of GA and cytokinin to the blooms at the time of hand pollination.
Increased growth. GA applied near the terminal bud of trees may increase the rate of growth by stimulating more or less constant growth during the season. In a Department of Agriculture experiment, the GA was applied as a 1% paste in a band around the terminal bud of trees. Treatment was repeated three times during the summer. Walnut tee growth was 8.5 ft. for treated trees, 1.5 ft. for untreated trees.
Frost protection. Spraying fruit trees at full-blossom or when the blossoms begin to wither can offset the detrimental effects of frost.
Root formation. GA inhibits the formation of roots in cuttings.
Obviously not written with marijuana in mind, so the numbers might be off, but it gives ya an idea.

Has any one thought about the blue light spectrim iv'e read it can also be used to increase the T.H.C. in the female plant so whatever it is let us know I for one would like to hear your comments or all the work we have done so far is in vain



Regard's sexygitt

This is quite cool never knew this



Environmental Effects

Many environmental factors can cause intersexes and sexual reversals. These include photoperiod, low light intensity, applications of ultraviolet light, low temperatures, mutilation or severe pruning, nutrient imbalances or deficiencies, senescence (old age), and applications of various chemicals (see bibliography on sex determination).

The photoperiod (or time of planting using natural light) is the most important factor to consider for normal flowering. In 1931, J. Schaffner (105) showed that the percentage of hemp plants that had confused sexual characteristics depended on the time of year they were planted. Normal flowering (less than five percent of the plants are intersexes) occurred when the seeds were sown in May, June, or July, the months when the photoperiod is longest and light intensity is strongest. When planted sooner or later in the year, the percentage of intersexuals increased steadily, until about 90 percent of the plants were intersexual when planted during November or early December.

Marijuana plants need more time to develop than hemp plants at latitudes in the United States. Considering potency, size, and normal flowering, the best time to sow for the summer crop is during the month of April. Farmers in the south could start the plants as late as June and still expect fully developed plants.

If artificial light is used, the length of the photoperiod can influence sexual expression. Normal flowering, with about equal numbers of male and female plants, seems to occur when the photoperiod is from 15 to 17 hours of light for a period of three to five months. The photoperiod is then shortened to 12 hours to induce flowering. With longer photoperiods, from 18 to 24 hours a day, the ratio of males to females changes, depending on whether flowering is induced earlier or later in the plant's life. When the plants are grown with long photoperiods for six months or more, usually there are at least 10 percent more male then female plants. When flowering is induced within three months of age, more females develop. Actually, the "extra" males or females are reversed plants, but the reversals occur before the plants flower in their natural genders.

Some plants will flower normally without a cutting of the photoperiod. But more often, females will not form thick buds unless the light cycle is cut to a period of 12 hours duration. Don't make the light cycle any shorter than 12 hours, unless the females have not shown flowers after three weeks of 12-hour days. Then cut the light cycle to 11 hours. Flowers should appear in about one week.

Anytime the light cycle is cut to less than 11 hours, some intersexes or reversed plant usually develop. This fact leads to a procedure for increasing the numbers of female flowers indoors. The crops can be grown for three months under a long photoperiod (18 or more hours of light). The light cycle is then cut to 10 hours. Although the harvest is young (about five months) there will be many more female flower buds than with normal flowering. More plants will develop female flowers initially, and male plants usually reverse to females after a few weeks of flowering.


I think It's from : Marijuana Grower's Guide


Regards sexygitt

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