hi i have a question about these strains,
Has anyone done these before? if so what light cycle have you used as some sites say 18/6
others say 20/4
and even watch some videos thats say best is 24/7 a week!
so no clue what to go on??

also whats the best yeild you have had out of eacg strain of plant, i was thinking of starting them under a 150w sodium, and then after 3 weeks going to do them uder a 400w sodium.

any help would be great thanks
wwmikey

will be going into 12.5 liter pots and in soil.

I grew 3 Lowryder#2's and got well over 6 ounces Dry weight,you could take a look in my grow diary in my signature if you like.They were under a 250hps dual spectrum and 2 of the plants were in 13ltr buckets and had 20/4 lighting for most of it but they did have 24/0 for the last few weeks.

thanks for the info.
great lookin plants there, mine just going into pots tonight minus two seeds that still havent opened, who knows why! i will give them more time hopefully they do.

if not i will have 10 rather then 12

I got just under 6 ounces from 4 plants, these were white dwarfs, decent quality smoke.

I ran mine 24/7 and if my memory serves correct they were running for just under 10 weeks from germination.

Bit too long if you ask me... Might as well grow a normal strain and just veg it after 2 weeks, gonna stay small anyway.

can you use a 250w cfl light flowering one from germination in soil to finsh with these? if not i will use my old 125w sodium to start them off+

i did LR#2 while i was veging up some others, first 2 weeks od were under a 250w enviro and to be honest i think it really set them back, then 400w, on 18 hours (even with 250w) ordered the 10 normal seeds from edit but got sent 5 fems instead, each was a different pheno, 1 or 2 runtish, with 2 great producers and 1 mid, cant really remember exactly how much i got, but was enough to last me a good 6 months, and i smoke alot, i would recomend the santa maria genetics as this must be the only good thing giving LR#2 a good smoke and a good high that iv really come to like, took between 9 and a half and 12 weeks for them all to finnish though.

I'm currently on lowryder 2's and am up to day 54. Switched from 20/4 to 24/0 yesterday and in all honesty, it looking good so far. I got 10 regular seeds and 6 ladys came through. I used a 250 enviro until flower then a 250hps. Keep us all posted as to how you get on :-)

i will do in soil now, and already in soil. they poking threw soil minus 1. and 2 that still have not split from seed in paper towel, any tips on how to get them to spilt? been there 3 days now all others have moved into pots and showing little leaves already.

I have been doing a fair bit of research on these, and was even interested in them years ago. I will try to pass on some of the info I have taken in but BE WARNED, this is in effect "hear say" so you should not quote it verbatim and you should experiment yourself.

The main question you seemed to have was what the best lighting schedule, and why some people say 24/0 is best and others say 18/6 is best.

It depends is the real answer. Your decision should be based on what you think of your lighting system, the reason is due to "stretch". An 18/6 cycle gives the plant more stretch, and a 24/0 cycle stops a lot of the stretch. If you are using a single 125w CFL for instance, stretch would be your enemy. This is because CFL light does not penetrate very far, so you want the plants to be as short and stocky as possible. So that more of the scarce CFL light can get to the actual bud sites. So with a CFL you really want to consider 24/0 sched.

If on the other hand you are using a good 50w per sq/ft of high intensity lighting, then stretch actually is not such a bad thing. This is because the plants do not grow very tall even with stretch but obviously taller than no stretch at all. So your aim with good intensity lighting is to get the buggers to grow as big as nature will allow, and that means making them stretch a little. So with a HID bulb you really want to be looking at an 18/6 sched.

In saying all of that. Most growers seem to find a reason to go 20/4 no matter if they are using CFL or HID. The reason I guess is that they are never going to be really far away from optimal.

As for helping the seeds, well if your ready to throw any away you can try cracking them by gently squeezing them, or even trying to prise them a little with your thumb nail. It isn't something I have done personally but I have heard of others doing it and if your gonna chuck em it seems like there is no harm having a go. Thumb nail method sounds best bet to me. Just try to be gentle while you price the casing slightly open.

a couple of things I want to add about making your own seeds and feminized seeds ect. I remember about 5 years ago when people first started to experiment with various crosses of lowryder. The thing is, they really are very much a sort of "all over the place" plant. What I mean is these breeds are often, in reality, like a bag of liquorice all sorts. As time goes on eventually the genes of some of the crosses will get locked down more and more. Obviously the most popular smokes and yielders will get locked down the fastest. But at the moment, most of them are not really properly fixed genetics.

What this means if you want to make seeds is you should not fall into the trap of making a few seeds, and then later on making a few more seeds off those seeds, and so on and so on. Basically, what I mean is it will not take many generations before you have seeds that are not very good. There are just too many variables in the genes to start off with and the most likely result is after a few generations the variations in each grow will be too great. The most reliable genes as I understand is at the moment are from lowryder #1 and #2, and most crosses (if not all) that you find are a result of back crossing with lowryder males until they end up with variations that are not too sporadic and the public will just about put up with them, it is not unusual to see every seed in a packet producing a different looking plant but as long as they all auto flower and are within a certain size range it is a go as far as the breeders of these are concerned. What this means is if your gonna make some seeds then you need to make too many. Make a shed load of the things. None of this messing about seeding one branch crap unless your doing it for fun or intend on buying new seeds every so often. Do a few grows and you soon get a feel for which females you like the best, find a similar looking male and you won't go far wrong. But remember, the genetics of a lowryder and a normal plant are really very different, it does not take many generations of inter breeding before the genes go shooting off to make plants that have those huge variations.

The other thing, was about female seeds. Honestly I see no point at all in female seeds for autos. The males usually show first and are so small by the time they show that it seems pointless. I mean, your talking less than 3 weeks. If by chance you ended up with all males in a grow then it just means you lost a few weeks. Not really a big problem is it? And any males that do show can be replaced by another seedling. So that is my view on auto female seeds, I am sure though that to some people they make perfect sense so like I said near the start experiment yourself and find what suits you.

I think I explained the stuff fairly well, maybe not .

good reply , the only thing id say if you make your own fem seeds then it will save you a fair amount of time

kondor thanks for all that info mate

thanks i split with my thumb and one has started the other one still nothing