ive been vegging my plants for 7 weeks now (sorry no pics) they are between 6 and 9 inches tall and quite stout and stocky, and they look in excelent health. they were topped at the fourth/fifth node. i believe the slow growth was probably due to underwatering,low humidity, and poor compost
anyway they have been in there final 6.5ltr pots a week now and im considering going to flower next week so i just wanted to double check one or two things as ive not been this far before.
im using JAB JI 1,2,3 soil based compost (not the best choice i know.) is this compost non organic ?? i have bought bio bizz grow and bloom which are organic nutes so am i ok to use these? is it even an issue?? what should i use for this compost ?
also im concerned that my plants are still short and im wondering how much more heioght/growth ratio i can expect in flower?? should i let em veg a bit longer?? if so to what hieght??
ive had them under the mh all veg and was planning to switch to hps on 12/12, all but one of my plants are sativas
clearence is not a problem, if only..
thanks for any advice cheers, rut
im not a soil grower but i can tell you if a plant looks healthy it is 
i dont know your hight restrictions so i cant comment on when to flower or what flavours your running but 7 weeks is a good amount of time to veg
i dont know your hight restrictions so i cant comment on when to flower or what flavours your running but 7 weeks is a good amount of time to veg
You can use organic nutes with inorganic media, it just means that your grow won't be certifiably 'organic'. 
Indica heavy plants usually double or so in height during 12/12, sativas can triple in height or maybe more.
Indica heavy plants usually double or so in height during 12/12, sativas can triple in height or maybe more.
Hi Rutmonkey,
as Scribble said, not 100% organic but your biobizz feeds will be fine with you compost. Heres an old post of Oldtimer1's that suggests a very popular feeding schedule for Biobizz nutes. I use it myself as a guide:
Just as further confirmation of whats been said my current grow is a sativa dominant hybrid in 11 litre pots (not full to top tho, I reckon 7-8 litres) I went 12/12 when the plants had fully rooted in their final pots, with a little training on some I got the canopy to a level 12". It's now 25 days later and the average height is 21" and they might just stretch a little more, but not much.
Hope thats of some use.
as Scribble said, not 100% organic but your biobizz feeds will be fine with you compost. Heres an old post of Oldtimer1's that suggests a very popular feeding schedule for Biobizz nutes. I use it myself as a guide:
QUOTE
Oldtimer1
Grumpy Old Git!
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Posts: 7,855
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From: Yes!
Member No.: 338
Style of Grow:Organic
The BioBizz chart is for rooted cuttings not seedlings.
The optimum ph of the compost for maintaining health and growth is 6.5 to 6.8. It is much harder for the compost to buffer up than to buffer down.
I don't know how many time I have to say this, if you do ph down not below 6.5! You will mess up the micro flora and if not very careful ruin the compost..
In answer to your Q's Mr Dragon your programme vis 3 inch to 6 inch to 11 litre is fine. But for the 3 inch pots use half and half allmix and perlite.
As soon as the rootball is netted with fine roots move them to your 6 inch pots and neat allmix.
Same story for the move to the final pots. Once in the final pots let them root out the soil ball before flowering, as a general rule of thumb once all the plants are showing roots at the drainage holes. Go to 12/12.
You should not need any feed right through these stages. Once you are on 12/12 start feeding 1 ml of both grow and bloom to a litre of water.
At about week 2 of flowering change the mix to 1 ml grow and 2 ml bloom per litre.
At week 3 [21 days] a one off feed of a heaped table spoon of epsom salts per 10 litres add to that 1 ml of grow and 2 ml of bloom.
Round the 4 week mark, the mix is 1ml gr and 3 ml bl.
Once you start to see browning of pistils change to 2 ml gr and 1 ml bl keep with that till the end.
All you really need is grow and bloom + a little epsom salts.
Does this make sense?
An added point, if you see the tissue between the veins on the lower leaves turning a lighter green at any point its likely the first signs of Mg shortage starting an addition of a little epsom salts to the next feed should keep things right. Don’t over do this or else you can lock out other nutrients.
Grumpy Old Git!
******
Group: Site Moderator
Posts: 7,855
Joined: 18-March 02
From: Yes!
Member No.: 338
Style of Grow:Organic
The BioBizz chart is for rooted cuttings not seedlings.
The optimum ph of the compost for maintaining health and growth is 6.5 to 6.8. It is much harder for the compost to buffer up than to buffer down.
I don't know how many time I have to say this, if you do ph down not below 6.5! You will mess up the micro flora and if not very careful ruin the compost..
In answer to your Q's Mr Dragon your programme vis 3 inch to 6 inch to 11 litre is fine. But for the 3 inch pots use half and half allmix and perlite.
As soon as the rootball is netted with fine roots move them to your 6 inch pots and neat allmix.
Same story for the move to the final pots. Once in the final pots let them root out the soil ball before flowering, as a general rule of thumb once all the plants are showing roots at the drainage holes. Go to 12/12.
You should not need any feed right through these stages. Once you are on 12/12 start feeding 1 ml of both grow and bloom to a litre of water.
At about week 2 of flowering change the mix to 1 ml grow and 2 ml bloom per litre.
At week 3 [21 days] a one off feed of a heaped table spoon of epsom salts per 10 litres add to that 1 ml of grow and 2 ml of bloom.
Round the 4 week mark, the mix is 1ml gr and 3 ml bl.
Once you start to see browning of pistils change to 2 ml gr and 1 ml bl keep with that till the end.
All you really need is grow and bloom + a little epsom salts.
Does this make sense?
An added point, if you see the tissue between the veins on the lower leaves turning a lighter green at any point its likely the first signs of Mg shortage starting an addition of a little epsom salts to the next feed should keep things right. Don’t over do this or else you can lock out other nutrients.
Just as further confirmation of whats been said my current grow is a sativa dominant hybrid in 11 litre pots (not full to top tho, I reckon 7-8 litres) I went 12/12 when the plants had fully rooted in their final pots, with a little training on some I got the canopy to a level 12". It's now 25 days later and the average height is 21" and they might just stretch a little more, but not much.
Hope thats of some use.
thanks for the replies guys i think that makes sense now, i just had one other question regarding cuttings..?
if i wanted to clone one or two of my plants before i flower them i would guess that taking the cuttings from the first node branch would be better as these branches are the furthest from the canopy and im not interested in the regrowth as it will be miles behind when theyre flowering, would that be correct ???
if i wanted to clone one or two of my plants before i flower them i would guess that taking the cuttings from the first node branch would be better as these branches are the furthest from the canopy and im not interested in the regrowth as it will be miles behind when theyre flowering, would that be correct ???
Good Morning
For cuttings it depends on the form of your plants as to where you can get your clones from. What you are suggesting sounds logical but without seeing the plants I can't say. Another factor in choosing cuttings is what type of cuting you want i.e. do you want non-lignified 'soft-tip' style cuttings (from newer growth) or larger more 'woody' ones (older lower branches being perfect for this).
I was lucky with my plants, the way I had trained them (LST) had provided me with lots of vigorous new shoots. I had to clear out some anyway to stop them being too cluttered and so had a good range to choose from.
I've done cuttings from all sorts of plants using many methods, from plain water or willow water, jiffy plugs, root riots, perlite/vermiculite mixes and rockwool.
The best method by far in my opinion (for me at least) is in Oldtimer1's Bonsai mum and cloning ebook/.pdf. It took me a while to crack it (basically when I started following it to the letter) But its quick, high strike rate, low maintenance and easy (cheap too if you already have lightmix & perlite handy).
Sorry for going on
I suppose the reason I linked the guide is because in following it it changes how and when you select cuttings i.e. I select cuttings from fresher growth, trying to get 'soft-tips'. So I take my cuttings at a point where the plant has time to grow and fill and gaps in the canopy left by taking clones. The lower woodier branches I would once have used for cuttings now invariably get pruned and binned 
If you haven't already read it I highly recommend it, very interesting
...hope I haven't confused the issue for you
For cuttings it depends on the form of your plants as to where you can get your clones from. What you are suggesting sounds logical but without seeing the plants I can't say. Another factor in choosing cuttings is what type of cuting you want i.e. do you want non-lignified 'soft-tip' style cuttings (from newer growth) or larger more 'woody' ones (older lower branches being perfect for this).
I was lucky with my plants, the way I had trained them (LST) had provided me with lots of vigorous new shoots. I had to clear out some anyway to stop them being too cluttered and so had a good range to choose from.
I've done cuttings from all sorts of plants using many methods, from plain water or willow water, jiffy plugs, root riots, perlite/vermiculite mixes and rockwool.
The best method by far in my opinion (for me at least) is in Oldtimer1's Bonsai mum and cloning ebook/.pdf. It took me a while to crack it (basically when I started following it to the letter) But its quick, high strike rate, low maintenance and easy (cheap too if you already have lightmix & perlite handy).
Sorry for going on
I suppose the reason I linked the guide is because in following it it changes how and when you select cuttings i.e. I select cuttings from fresher growth, trying to get 'soft-tips'. So I take my cuttings at a point where the plant has time to grow and fill and gaps in the canopy left by taking clones. The lower woodier branches I would once have used for cuttings now invariably get pruned and binned If you haven't already read it I highly recommend it, very interesting
...hope I haven't confused the issue for you
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