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UK420 > Cultivation > Growroom Design > D.I.Y. Kit
lazi
I know I should have sorted the cellar floor out at the start but better late than never.

There's some tiles still in place from when it was a Victorian kitchen and where they are missing, the builders rubble has been cleared to make an almost even floor. The tiles make up less than 25% of the floor space but at least they give a level to work to. About a 12 foot square should do it, means decent walk around space for an XXL sized cab.

Can't decide on fitting a wooden floor, beams then flooring grade chipboard or concrete it.

Anyone know any pros and cons to help me decide?

Chilli
I would put a wooden floor down given the choice - concrete's very cold. In my old house I had a concrete floor in the kitchen and it was always bloody freezing, so I replaced it with a wooden floor - joists, chipboard and polystyrene insulation.
sky
i'd go for wooden, with plenty of rockwool underneath smile.gif concreteing in cellars is f'ing hard work!
JGP
I would screed with concrete then lay tiles as your floor height will be governed by your staircase.You could use either polysterene or kingspan to insulate under the screed if u prefer or can be assed.

Putting timber floors below the damp proof course is a bad idea because they are susceptible to wet/dry rot as excess moisture has no where to go.
SMIFFY2
I WOULD PUT A SCREED LIKE HE SAID CA INSOLATE WITH KINGSPAN
GusHansen
Underfloor heating down then screed with tiles on top smile.gif
woodbutcher32
Damp proof membrane (visqueen) lining (lapped up the walls) over a sharp sand "blinding" (to protect you membrane) then a 75mm sand/cement screed either incorperating your heating pipes or a solid screed with electric underfloor heating incorperated with your floor tiling grout. Job's a good un.

Woody

Edited due to batteries being low in my keyboard and too fuckin lazy to go downstairs for mew ones.
sky
QUOTE (JGP @ Oct 9 2009, 09:50 PM) *
I would screed with concrete then lay tiles as your floor height will be governed by your staircase.You could use either polysterene or kingspan to insulate under the screed if u prefer or can be assed.

Putting timber floors below the damp proof course is a bad idea because they are susceptible to wet/dry rot as excess moisture has no where to go.



it'll only be damp if it doesnt get enough ventillation , and if it was that bad it wouldn't be any good for growing in. worst case build it on dpm and use tanalised/fence posts for the frame smile.gif . i had my pc/equipment and grow in my cellar
JGP
QUOTE (sky @ Oct 10 2009, 08:06 PM) *
it'll only be damp if it doesnt get enough ventillation , and if it was that bad it wouldn't be any good for growing in. worst case build it on dpm and use tanalised/fence posts for the frame smile.gif . i had my pc/equipment and grow in my cellar


The dampness in cellars is in the air content as it's below ground level.DPM is to combat rising damp whereas most of moisture shall be in the air and on walls, think condensation, not healthy at all hence me advising the concrete/tiles as a floor covering.
heyboy
Hi all

I grow in loft

wooden floor was cold so i kingspaned it

loads better

only trouble is i have dented a few places with my knees

In a cellar with you walking on it - it will have to be covered with something

To be honest with my grow my pots are rarely on the floor

Im always raising them and training for a good canopy

hb

stoned.gif

a heated floor would be nice
Blayz'd
A reclaimed wooden floor. Comes in blocks, proper wood. They rip them up from places all the time. Isn't hard to find a load, put it down, sand and varnish. Brand new proper wooden floor. When it gets old, sand it down and away you go again for a brand new floor. That's my suggestion.
Logik
I wouldnt concrete the floor.

find some cardboard boxes, lay them down, put some damp proof membrane on top of that, link it up to the sides via duck tape or glue, then put some wooden slats across.

you have a floor
sky
QUOTE (JGP @ Oct 10 2009, 09:27 PM) *
The dampness in cellars is in the air content as it's below ground level.DPM is to combat rising damp whereas most of moisture shall be in the air and on walls, think condensation, not healthy at all hence me advising the concrete/tiles as a floor covering.


dpm would stop the wood frame sitting directly on the grotty floor. if its ventillated well enough damp/high rh shouldnt be a problem , rh in mine was no higher than rest of the house smile.gif although that said i stud wall and insulated mine and chucked in a 1200x600 rad cool.gif floor was 4 inch poly then radon grade dpm and 3 inch concrete on top. was a proper ball ache mixing down there pinch.gif
Ilpapa
I had cold floor issues.
I used 50mm kinspan with a pond liner on top and bottom. Cheap fast easy and does the job brilliantly.Any floods stay in the liner and i have a cheap argos wet vac to hoover up spillages.

Whatever you do remember that kingspan is porous. It soaks water like a sponge in the event of a flood. Under a wooden floor this could lead to disaster. I know this from experience.

Concrete is porous too if not sealed afaik. It will soak a limited amount of water after a flood- possibly leading to humidity problems as it dries.

Best luck
Papa.
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