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BioSilicon is specially formulated for soil / compost applications containing a unique blend of humic and silicate to ensure optimum availability.
BioSilicon will strengthen the cell walls of plants resulting in the following:
• Improved photosynthetic activity
• Increased yields
• Stronger stems and stalks
• Improved resistance to pathogenic fungi
• Improved heat tolerance
• Improved resistance to pests
• Improved disease resistance
Silicon is not easily available from the soil, that’s why using this special blend will ensure that your crop benefits from many aspects giving tastier and larger fruit.
Directions for use
Foliar: Dilute 1ml to 2 litres of water.
Drench: Dilute 1ml - 1.5ml to 1 litre of water. Use with every watering until harvest.

bio-silicon can be purchased from your local retailer as well as Greens Horticulture

Love the sound of this. Will be used on next grow for definite. Best of luck with d range.

Hi Folks.
So is this just the usual Potasium Silicate, or a different source of silica, or does it contain more ingredients?
Sorry just notices the Mention of "Humic", so is it a mix of Humic acid, and potasium Silicate?
Toodle Ooo.
Martian.

Do you just add this to your normal feeding? Also it says every water harvest, even when they are seedlings? Definately gonna give this and the granuels ago on my next lot. £29 a litre though i hope its worth it.

Martian yes it contains silicate of potash! This is a naturally occurring compound of potassium salt and silicic acid. It also contains humates and plant extracts these make it more bioavailable, both at the roots and folia level.

Yes ganjaman21 you can use bio-silicon on seedlings, useing compost you should not need to feed until you are rooted out in your final pots, it can be used with organic fertilisers, but keep in mind that the humates and plant extracts BS contains will make the nutrient available more rapidly, so use a little less than normal, especially the PK 13:14.

I am liking what it is doing in my latest grow, why not buy a small bottle and see if you like it, it goes a long way, personally I only use 1 ml to 2 or 2.5 litres of water or feed and can see big differences.

Hope this helps.

Thanks for your reply oldtimer.

Thanks oldtimer

We have just had several reports come back from local shops. It all sounds promising to say the least. We knew all of the benefits but it is nice to hear of others having similar experiences. We pride ourselves on listening to our customers feedback, this is the vital key to helping you guys have an understanding of our products and the benefits you can achieve.

In every instance users are saying they have seen an increase in gerth and strength of the stems. Some say they used to have to cane and tie up the sides but have now found that since using the bio-silicon they appear to be larger and stronger than they did before.

Due to the stems being larger, the transposition of water and vital nutrients and trace elements can be transported through your plants more efficiently and effectively. This is resulting in increased yields across the board. I'll try and find out from some of the shops if they happen to know at what percentage of an increase they are seeing. I spoke with one outlet on Friday afternoon who said one of his customers saw a 12% increase up on his last grow.

Ok to recap

0.5 ml of bio-silicon each time you water but only in the bloom period,does that sound right?

Buddly From the start of seedling/cutting. I’ve not used it every water, mainly because I’m lazy and forgot, what I’ve seen so far is much sturdier healthier plants.

In fact the buggers are too big, I’ll have to flower earlier in future.

nice one OT thanks for that

this sounds interesting, going to give this time round.

Noticed your products are stocked at local shop last weekend, very nice and handy

will silcon enable me to grow through summer with the rising temps. i read they use it down under in the summer,does somthing to the plants cells to cope with heat stress,normaly i give high summer a miss but this im trying silco hopefully grow right through

just how "dangerous" is this product? The pack says to wear gloves and goggles ! Tbh, I haven't and have had a little splash onto my hand. Is the gloves and goggles just guidance or essential?

What happens if you get it on the skin? (so far i have washed it off pretty quick and not noticed anything)

Yes, using biosilicon will build up the cell walls within the plant, this enable the plants to tollerate a greater rise in heat, it also builds up the tollerance against diseases and pathogenic fungi. And it makes the leaves a bit more leathery type feel, this strengthens the "Cuticle" on the leaf surface protecting it from small sucking insects such as Aphids.



The warning is their to cover our own arse in most instances tbh. It isn't a corrosive or extremely hazardous product, that said, peeps react in different ways to many things, so as far as health and safety are concerned goggles and gloves should be used, but in reallity I don't think many peeps wear them at all.

It says for soil/compost on the website... Just wondering if this is ok for use in coco?? Thanks.

It will be just fine.

Have you been doing any tests on these products oldtimer?

I'd be interested to see the findings of some comparison grows. I'm off to get a few of these products and do a few side by sides. I'll get to see how effective this essence is pretty soon actually, as I have a new batch of LSF on the way right now that is only being held at bay by good plant health, but you can see it's still there from the last grow. Can't wait to see how it does. I might leave a plant or two untreated and see how it goes.

Thanks for the reply, appreciated...

just a thumbs up for the plantmagic products,especially this bio-silicon.
i,ve been using it for a few weeks now and have to say this stuff is the bizz.
i recently done a batch of clones all treated with bs,1 foliar spray at 1ml/ltr in veg and 1 soil drench at 4ml/10ltr also in veg and you could see a big boost all round.
i am 3weeks into flower and have been useing the bs at 4ml/10ltr water on its own no other feed and it looks like im growing a new strain altogether,the plants are amazing the leaves are massive and the stems are all extremely robust.
i am using all the plantmagic products atm and all are superb but this bio-silicon is the one that stands out for me.
peace all jaffaman

bought meself a small bottle of this and it arrived today..ive only just started a gow so lets hope i get the same results as everyone else...sounds absolutly magic stuff...

Hi is there much difference between this and growth tech liquid silicon??? also silicon raises the PH value of your nutrient solution does this have any negative effects on the composts ability to naturally PH buffer by raising it to high?

Will have to get some, for me "plant magic" has been my saviour can grow veg outdoors easy no probs, but canna in a cupboard is a whole different game, my last yield was pathetically low due mainly to my not realising what was going on, still dont in many respects but with help from people here and "Plant Magic" I am feeling more confident about my next grow.. so off to greens I go..

Guys, wots the score any good things to report?????????????????????????????????????????/

I'm about to harvest a crop grown using biosilicon and boost. Yield looks good (have to wait to find out).The stems are thicker and stronger than my plants normally are when grown in the same space and the buds appear denser than usual.

The real surprise was that the plants finished earlier, has anyone else noticed this?

Hiya mate..

Arnold Layne has had a similar 'problem' ... Early Ripening?

Have got some of this for my new grow actually. Sounds good.

Cheers Stonehedge.

After reading that I'll go further and say it was at least a week earlier. I used mixed lights and don't accept the outdoor temp/RH% theory.

So what are the key differences between PM BioSilicon and any other silicon additive? I'm sold on the benefits of silicon - have been using it for over 6 months now and my plants are 100% stronger with better frames and much less support needed (if any).

However, PM BioSilicon is £29/litre, and others are a fraction of that....e.g. Budlink £10/litre, Liquid Silicon £10/litre. What is it about your silicon additive that makes it worth 3x the price of a regular silicon additive?

Thanks,

GN

Good question GN. I too am sold on the benefits - last crop was a week or more early and I'm loving the strength it instils, but without detailed ingredient information the only thing we can do is shop around.

Been kind of wondering the same, i bought a little bottle and am planning to add some every week or so but no way am i watering every feed till harvest it would cost me a small fortune.

exactly this is what i was trying to get at with my question it was even a very scientific question that requires detailed info from PM but certain questions just seem to get ignored by these guys at times ive even submitted a question direct to them but have yet to recieve an ansear???



Im just gonna wait thngs out and see if any more info/feedback pops up im willing to try there soil nutes sounds interresting but as for siilicon for now ill stick with the competiters products as for the price of one of there bottles a second addative that adds all lthe humic's ect that there adding in can be bought seperatly.

If you'd have tracked the pm then you would have seen that I have only just read it and logged in for that matter We are fairly busy atm, so haven't got all the time in the world to be here daily answering Q's unfortunately I do answer as best I can, I try to log on as best I can....in fact, why am I explaining myself?

Ok, Silica in a natural form (yes it is present in some soils but not in a soluble form) is hard for the plant to "uptake" naturally. It is mad, because it is one of the most important fundamental influences for the plants structure, vigor, protection against small insects and mould penetration as well as having a great influence on other ingredients useful to plant metabolism. So, by combining the silica with humates at the proper proportions will ease the uptake to the plant as well as boost the microbial activity in the root zone. The biosilicon is in total soluble form made readily available to the plants via it's roots or via foliar. Our silicon helps the micro fauna, it does not destroy it nor does it "stress it out" so to speak.

As for the other alternatives out on the market. First and foremost they are geared for hydroponic users. None of which, that I have seen, are made specifically for the compost user in mind. It is almost like trying to feed your compost grown plants with hydroponic nutrient.....it may work to some degree but no where near it's full potential.

Hope this has helped clear a few things up We are hearing on a regular basis from shops all over are saying how their clients are witnessing a physical noticeable difference when applying the biosilicon, which is a positive thing to say the least.

just to say i,m up 10 to 15% on yeild using the bs,the branches are far more robust with big full buds.
and another thing the smell from plants grown with the bs is just devine

It is very good stuff, although to be fair I've been using all PM products so can't pin down my improved growth on one product. I've used this one the most though.

You have to look at concentrations and dilution rates when comparing with other products, as well as the method of production. Apologies if you have done this already.

Maybe if PM had bigger bottles at half-dilution they would appear better value?? e2a. Only half-joking.

okay mine arrived this week so far have not used any..

I am going to have to flower one plant.. i take it from reading this I can start using it now on her, I also have 4 seedlings just popped, should I apply to the soil or spray them? (don't like the idea of spraying seedlings)

1 ml to 2 to 2.5 litres of water, will make my little bottle go a long way.

early cropping would be a bonus for me as last yield was cack.


Looking at the comments regarding price compared to other products, do the other products last as long? I mean are they also only 1ml per 2 litres of water?

Wednesday is flowering time for one of my girls.. will start a diary with pics, but remember my grows at this moment are absolute cack, hopefully the changes I have made to the grow environment (old carpet out, new cupboard, better reflector) will get me at least to .5g per watt, last grow was only 4 ounces dry from 6 plants, well poor.

The silicon I use in hydro (Budlink) has a full strength dilution rate of 5ml per litre..

I'm using 5-10ml bio-silicon per 10-12 litres water. Less than recommended but with visible results.

edit: litres.

I've been using min dose as per OT1 - who suggests even less - and still nice response.

Have been musing over missing doses then doing max doses to coincide with supercrop LST trim sessions...
I'm feeding 2moro morning and its been bloody hot today and supposed to get worse so I might just give'em a max dose an see if a corresponding heat resistance is visible.

Like to hear the 10-15% yeild increase, yum.

The wetter is the only bottle to have run out fast and I started using at 1ml/L, half min dose, when at 1/3 bottle mark - it still has an effect but its not as noticeable. I like the way at stronger doses it slows the drench and reduces run off.

Can anyone pse answer me as to why I'm not supposed to use the Boost in flower? have asked before but well, PM's been busy. Thanks in advance ;p

You can use bs and or boost while flowering, its about doing it right, bs contains humates and boost contains both humates and fulvic, both are cation exchange agents, in other words they make nutrients more plant available, so with judicious use they help, over do it and you can end up with nutrient burn. Its best imho to use bs and more so boost just with water between fertigation.

That explains what happened to me last week, i fed with a brew of essence + trichoderma and also gave them 1.5ml of bio silicon along with it to and i got nute burn on every plant, nothing major mind but some burn and a little clawing under on some plants.

How much should you reduce the grow and bloom by when using the bio-silicon? In full bloom it's usually about 1ml of grow and 3ml of bloom per litre. If you added 0.5ml of bio-silicon, should you reduce the grow and bloom to something like 0.9ml grow and 2.6ml of bloom? Also, should you stop using the bio-silicon in the last couple of weeks, when switching to 2ml of grow and 1ml of bloom, or doesn't the potassium silicate effect the burn or flavor? Thanks.

Thanks for the clarifications OT1 - I've read elsewhere of people using ewc teas for humates throughout flowering for the positive benefits and I'd noted that both contained Humates as per back of bottle.

So I guess once past 2 wks of flower root growth has slowed and continuing Boost if also giving Bio-silicon will over do it - I observed slight tip burn when I did a 1ml/L Boost only watering @ 2 wk flower - they'd had 1ml/L fishmix and 1ml/L silicon 3 days earlier with no burn..

Bump. It's been a week since I asked my question, anybody know the answer? Thanks.

Been away, don't know what PM's take on it is. What I do is feed at full strength till I just get run through, and water in the next day or so with bs to run through again then leave for approx four days, then repeat. This seems fine for me with my plants in 6l finals, in fact sometimes its 5 days.

Thanks OT, is that schedule with the BS at around half strength? Maybe the BS should be at full strength to make up for the fact that the soil is too wet to take much solution? Also, is it potassium or phosphorous that needs to be decreased near the end of flower? Switching to 2ml of grow and 1ml of bloom decreases the amount of phosphorous significantly but not the potassium, so I presume that it is phosphorous and not potassium that needs to be decreased near the end. Someone on here told me that it was excess potassium that makes the burn harsh though, which if true would suggest that the BS should be decreased or stopped near the end.


gunna

Think that might have been me. It was OT1's advice to me initially. It's the phosphorous you want to reduce towards the end. K can be bumped up from the mid-late point in flower and P reduced.

For what it's worth, I am using a similar product from the people who make rootgrow. I use it in between feeds. I'm not so sure there's any conclusive evidence to suggest what is better in practice, not yet anyway. From what I understand about the boost, it is just that - to enable the plants to utilise what is in the soil. My use of it now is to enable the plants to uptake what they already have available, as oppose to using other products at the same time.

I think you have to take the principal and maybe experiment with it based on what you understand it's job is. When you first begin to understand the fundamentals of organic growing, I think you can begin to utilise better the many things at your disposal. Even Oldtimer seems to be experimenting, based on the method he is using right now.

If I use an analogy, it's like cooking. Once you understand the principals, the ingredients, the flavours, the amounts... what works with what and how, then you understand the bits of science involved, you don't need to follow a recipe book to cook good food.

Been getting scummy blobby bits in the bottom of my watering can and its blocking up the rose.didnt realize what was going on at 1st,just thought "how annoying grrr!"after more annoying blobby bits and abit of head-scratching the (dim)light bulb appeared over my head,doh .Been adding nutes to my watering can and bio-silicon,then abit of hot water and topping right up with cold water as per usual.didnt realize all the annoying blobby bits were congealed blobs of bio-silicone,wasted half the bottle already going to have to cut down on the smoke .will put the cold water in 1st from now on

I think it was Jiffa who told me that it was potassium. Why did OT give you the impression that it was potassium at first? Who then told you that it was phosphorous? This needs clearing up once and for all, as it seems as though we've both been getting mixed messages.



I think that this is down to you adding the bio-silicon to the nutes before adding water. The potassium silicate is very high pH and it can denature the proteins in organic nutes if it's not diluted first. If you smell biobizz grow, it smell of marmite because it contains yeast extract, which is high in protein. Many proteins are pH sensitive and change structure (denature) in high or low pH, causing them to agglomerate (curdle) and precipitate out of the solution. The same process occurs when you add an acid to milk and it curdles. Other proteins are more heat sensitive, as opposed to pH sensitive, so it's better not to add hot water to the nutes before adding the cold water.

The plants will still get the same amount of nitrogen from the protein, in the long run. The main problem is that agglomerated proteins will not filter through the soil as well and their larger partical size will make them slower to decompose by microbes. Another concern is for the preservation of any functional proteins, like enzymes. The last thing that you want is for the enzymes to become denatured because this causes them to lose all of their bioactivity within the plants. All they'd then be good for is their mineral (mostly N) content.

gunna

It might have been Jiffa in that thread then, can't remember.

I don't think anything needs clearing up. The carcinogenicity of the final product of anything you smoke will be greater the higher levels of P there are. It seems the Phosphorus should be reduced down towards the mid-late point in flower.

cheers for the info gunna,would never have thought of that Will change the way i fill the can up from now on,water 1st,then nutes and a good old shake n stir

Good info here. Very good to know.