i have a 10 pin contacter does any body no where the wires should go ?

might need a few more details than that mate!

ok i have a c7 20 AMP crabtree contactor it has 10 pins Ii plan to wire it up to a double socket

top row of pins
1 3 5 13 A1
L1 L2 L3 no

THEN THE NEXT ROW OF PINS

T1 T2 T3 NO
2 4 6 14 A2


hope this helps

could some body please help me im desperate i dont want to start flowering without the relay i want to stay safe some body in here must no how to do this

please help me out i have been veging for near enough 3 months i need to start flowering asap


please help me and these plants

There's usually a diagram on it somewhere.

Vegging 3 months while waiting for a contactor? Jeez you must be frantic by now.

OK, I'll help if I can.

I'm good enough to sort it out if it was here with me but that doesn't mean I'll be good enough to do much across the net but I'll have a go.

I'll assume that you have no test meters but can get an electricians screwdriver, the type with internal neon for showing when there is a live.

You'll need 2 mains plugs with flex attached and an electricians screwdriver.

Pasting this bit so I don't have to keep scrolling.

top row of pins
1 3 5 13 A1
L1 L2 L3 no

THEN THE NEXT ROW OF PINS

T1 T2 T3 NO
2 4 6 14 A2

First job is find the solenoid coil contacts. Please tell me you can screw the wires in, going to be right dodgy otherwise if you're not used to this kind of thing.

On my 8 pin relay base the coil contacts are 2 and 7. They are also labelled A1 and A2, so imo they are favourite to be your coil contacts.

Wire up the mains lead, (3A fuse) live and neutral to A1 and A2. Doesn't matter which way round. With beating heart and baited breath (isn't this exciting?) flick the mains switch. No bang? So far so good unless you heard nothing. What you should hear is the relay coil clicking every time you flick the mains switch.

Assuming that was correct for the coil contacts, it is now routine to learn the others but the numbering has me a bit confused. Looks to be 3 sets of contacts but only one pole each. Means you can't have stuff powered up when the timer is off. Not that big a deal. I might be wrong on this btw, no matter, as long as we learn what they do, it'll work as a contactor.

With another mains lead, run the live to any contact you choose. (Except the coil contacts of course.) Use the electricians screwdriver to learn what else in now live and take notes. Say you've got a live going to 1) and nothing else is live but when you turn the coil on, 3) is now live. Keep at it until you know what is or isn't connected when the coil is either off or on.

Hope this helps.

There's a thread about this :-

http://www.uk420.com/boards/index.php?show...mp;hl=contactor

I think this is how mine are wired - it's been a couple of years ...

Click to view attachment

Yep - looks like L1 to L3 is the convention for the input side of the contacts and
T1 to T3 are the outputs.

They're meant for 3 phase so there's a spare pair of contacts.

Make sure you connect an earth directly.

The photo I've used is a solid state version - if yours is too there will be no clunk.

Computer leads are handy to have for the timer cable.

You could split a 13 amp extension for the other plug and socket.

afaik, solid state relays are a big no no for inductive loads.

So is it mechanical or solid state?

Blimey - so only suitable for heating then.

Best call it artistic license.

I fitted mine inside the steel ballast boxes - they make a heck of a clunk when they fire up.

solid state is ok for inductive loads if so designed. depends on the design of the relay.... think thyristors/motor drives, just solid state relays switched on and off for frequency control, inductive kick can hold them on though, if they're not designed for it

thanks its wired and ready to go cheers for the diagram