first time grower. any approximate guidlines on possible pot sizes. 100/100/200, 10 seeds (pot of gold indica dominant).
also how does the pot size effect the growth and root strenght etc?

Start small and pot up when you see the roots thru the drainholes in the pots.

More roots=bigger plant=bigger yield

inf

cheers m8

Well, you really should wait a bit longer than that before potting up. You may see roots at the drainage holes, but have virtually no real rootball. What you really need is a rootball that is well established.
Take a read of this
A healthy and well established rootball will give you a better yield every time. Roots = Buds, simple as

As to pot size, I do 2 or 3 re-pots and end up in 6 Litre Squares; yield is between 1.25 and 1.75+ Oz per plant, strain depending. If I were to re-pot up into an 11 Litre Square before going 12/12, I would end up yielding a lot more. Roots = Buds.

Can you repot after flowering has started?

[quote name='kopp'
Can you repot after flowering has started?
[/quote]

No you shouldnt pot up after flowering has been induced. the roots slow down and eventually stop once in flower.

Greenmonster

wahoo OT1 is the man!!!!!!

I second

I've read Mandala Seeds' FAQ a few times, seing as I have some seeds from them, and MandalaMike says that it's possible to pot on plant until the third week of flowering. Before ya'll get all worked up, let me just say that I'll take Ot's word over Mandala's any day of the week, just thought I'd share the information It just goes to show that there's quite a lot of contradicting informaton out there for aspiring growers. The rest of the Mandala FAQ contains some valuable information, so I like to have a look from time to time. Here's the bit about potting on, quoted from Mandalas [Spam removed]:

Too small pot size for adult plants is one of the most common mistakes in cannabis growing. Especially in light intensive situations such as balcony or garden grows the plants will quickly yellow and wilt. Don't be too lazy and repot your plants. You can do this up to the third week of flowering even.

While I'm at it, I might just as well address the fact that he also says that you ought to adjust the pH of your tap water in the watering section of the FAQ

• How and what should I water?
- always adjust the pH: 6,2 to 6,5 on soil. Use cheap vinegar or concentrated lemon juice. Products such as pH-Down and pH-Up contain highly concentrated soluble mineral salts such as phosphorus, nitrate, or potassium and can lead to toxic salt buildup in the soil and over-fertilize your plants. Especially seedlings and young plants are prone to “burn”.
- in regions with poor water quality consider using osmosis water with tap water mixed at 50-50%, or whatever is best according to your water quality
- let tap water sit in a bucket a few hours for chlorine to evaporate; use hot water in the winter so that it's room temperature for later use.


Again, just to show that there's contradicting information. I know the general advice on UK420 is that compost will buffer the pH, so don't shoot the messenger

I say it can't hurt adjusting the ph prior to feeding as long as what you use doesn't affect the microlife, I don't disagree with the potting up bit tho 3 weeks is a long time, I allways thought that roots stopped growing after 2 weeks flower. Food for thought tho