Ok guys hit a stumbling block for me im afraid anybody advise me on the wiring of the pictured item ?
My plan was to have the unit not permanently wired up ie instead of the mains going in on the left there can i stick a 3 pin plug & wire to make it live ? then have an 3 pin socket coming out extension like ?

If not not a problem to splice in but as said need advice , from the drawing i presume the "motor" is the rvk ? , so wires from rvk , blue to N brown to U & the green to PE . That would leave the mains , brown to L & blue to N .
No idea what that 230 vac output is .
Would appreciate if anyone could tell me if im any where near & to the stand alone unit idea

Man... if thats a thermostat you don't want my help.... Oh yeah its electrical you really don't want my help


I would suspect that it would be safer and probably better to go ahead and wire it up without the plugs, but maybe your planning on moving this piece around or hooking it up to something else and don't wanna go through the same nightmare again. ne ways I'm sure you'll get help soon enough... good luck with it.

yeah go ahead mate, you're pretty much spot on, the 230v output is just that, it'll put out 230v whenever the unit is switched on, for if you want something other than your fan powered whenever the fan is run, for example if you have intake and outake fans of the same size you could have your outake fan on the 230v output and your intake fan on a reduced speed on the reduced output. or perhaps if you were using co2 you could have the 230 volt output switch a relay to turn off co2 dosing whenever the fan is switched on by a thermostat, whatever you like

Cheers mate ill hook it up as stated first thing tomorrow & see if can avoid the bang much appreciated .

Woopsie ok thanks very much mate added an earth & uploading a pic for revision . If any mods about please delete the first pictue as not to cause anyone elese confusion , thx .

Click to view attachment

Glad to see you got this sorted out.

Hi there...
im going to buy one of these 5 step silent(non buzzing) speed controlsfor my grow....
Im planning to also use an ATC-800 heating+cooling temperature controller to bypass it. Hopefully Whazzup or OT1 or Electric man or someone who knows how will see this post -
Anyway this is the wiring diagram for the ATC heat+cool unitClick to view attachment (((i have another diagram showing me how to use only 1 plug to run it all so ill be doing that, but the cooling circuit is the same other than where its input comes from so this diagram is ok for my question here)))
So just looking at the cooling circuit on the temperature unit , and looking at the wiring of the speed controller this thread is about, can any1 see how to combine the 5 step speedo with the cooling circuit of the temp unit to provide thermostatic speed control-just like the honeywell and ceiling fan speedo units or the one i did with a danfoss stat and a ceiling fan speedo. you know-the one , the fan rund on the speed you select but when the temp rises to your set point the fan/s kick over to full speed. The temp unit is great coz it has seperate heating and cooling circuits like an ecotechnics evoloution but only costs 35 quid(needs mounting to a box and wiring)
Will this be exactly the same bypass connection as it would be with the honeywell type units or will the neutral be involved somehow and require a relay to switch it(the speedo) in and out of the circuit controlled by the temperature unit??
Anyway, 1000 thank yous in advance for any nudges in the right direction or any assistance anyone can give me on this subject. Hopefully what i want to do will be possible.
Take it easy everyone

Nice unit sherrif, take it this is a 5 sttep variable petentiometer, its has a core thus transforming the current to a different polarity, if this is wired to an rvk then its a little o.t.t as these usually cost ££££, bot is well better that some of the dimmer switches i have seen on here.
O.K what you said is you need it to work from a plug, this is no problem, the L and N can go straight onto a plug, rate the fuse @ 3a,, pe is earth, though rvk do not have earth connections, will not matter if you get the motor the wrong way, as you can swap them around, all what will happen is that the motor will spin in reverse, you will know straight away by the air flow, just swap it in the domino block. these really suit acoustic fan motors as they reduce motor humm by not just being a voltage regulator.
There are 2 outputs on this, one is just a resistor, which will be fine on an rvk, the other, is for a more serious motor.

Hope this helps.

it's single phase, sqopping live and neutral the wrong way round won't reverse the motor, it's not dc. and it's a transformer not a potentiometer, there's not polarity in ac, it changes voltage. also they aren't that expensive, and systemair specify this type of speed control for the rvk/ruck fans

as for that temp unit, you've only shown the external input/output connections, there should be another diagram that shows the internal relay configuration, which is what you'll need to show me too be of help

Thank you so much for that Whazzup.... this will be a luxury, buying parts for something and not having to suss it as i go along ...
just one thing...im not great at understanding proper electrical diagrams with the symbols... does any1 see how this would look if it(the digram by whazzup)) was done the stupid persons way((like the way i did the diagram i posted )) sorry to be a pain in the arse... Ill have another 100 looks at it in the meantime .
thanks again Whazzup for your assistance.

well basically he's put in two components, the one with the boz with a diagonal line with a dotted line that goes to the switch, is a relay and it's all one component including the switch. the other thing in a box is the 5 step transformer

Thnks man...
earths yeah id always do that anyway-i didnt include the earth paths in my diagram to avoid complicating it.
so i definately need a relay then huh...dammit, I was hoping it would be able to be done without one on the same way that my danfoss central heating stat bypasses my dimmer directly without use of a relay. Oh well, I guess if it needs one it needs one.
Ill show my friend your diagram and get him to translate it into my childish diagram style to be 100% sure.
Thanks again

you cant just short it out like a dimmer, because doing this puts 240volts on the transformer output, which is only partway up the length of the windings, and as neutral remains connected, then current will flow from the output and out through the neutral, and because the output is only (for example) halfway up the windings the "resistance" is reduced so you put too much current through the transformer, equals broken transformer

Thanks for that... good explanation of why it cant be done the cheapo way.. makes me feel better about finding space in the enclosure for a chunky relay ..
Whazup you mention a fuse... the alterniative diagram for the temperature controller unit suggests using a 3 amp blade fise like a car between the power in and the temp unit... I was planning to fit a panel mounted or inline fuseholder and use a glass fuse instead. Is this what you mean or do you mean somewhere else? thanks
Ok one last thing, for the relay to be used...would one of those maplins 10amp jobbies that ppl use in diy lighting contactors...
thank you for all ur help guys....

you can, but you could get away with a much smaller one.

Those relays shouldn't be used as contactors by the way, i know there's a sticky thread with them in. but the 10A rating is for resistive loads and the contacts can weld on same as the relays in timers do, a contactor has two sets of contacts per switch which along with a much larger switching coil which in turn means heavier springs, so it can switch heavier inductive loads

Ok so panel mounted fuse is fine, cool,
Scraglor, yeah, I know about those relays not being heavy enough for hid lighting.... I just mentioned the contactor threads so u would know the ones i meant....
Incidentally ive seen something labelled as relays contactors made by trevis- im planning on using them for a lighting unit... the smallest one of those is 25 amp though so thats way overkill for this fan unit.
Anyway thanks again fellas for all your help...
EDIT>>> Ive been on maplin looking at relays ive seen some 5 amp miniature relays, 240VAC coil, then theres 2 versions, DPDT and 4PDT I know thats double pole/4pole double throw although what that means i dont know . would one if those be ok and if yes which one would be best.
thank you.... you know if you rubbed haemmeroid cream on me me i might vanish, coz i know im a pain in the arse hahaha.......

well a pole is basically the number of inputs to a switch, the throw is the number of outputs from each input, ie for each input if it's double throw then there's a normally closed and a normally open contact at any one time (like the relay switch in whazzups drawing) if it's single throw then it's just one contact that's either on or off

Ok, I will want to try and get the bits and pieces from maplin((other than the speedo and the temp unit)), if i got one of the 5amp minature relays, should I get the 4pdt or the dpdt?
Thanks......
AAha, i think some of this is starting to dawn on me... I am using the very same speed control this thread origionlly started about...., I hadnt comprehended that the speedo had 2 sets of outputs-the one on the switch/variable and the fixed 230 output one **too stoned to notice something clearly written in the thread (ill bang my head on the table later) So now i think its dawning on me.... power going to thermostat, and to relay, from relay to speedo, depending on what the thermosat says, the relay either allows current through the stepped transformer contacts on the speed unit, or the 230 contacts on the speedo unit, switcing accordingly as the temperature fluctuates.........
Am i getting close? ...
Thanks

great i got it...excellent. With this incorporated into the heating/cooling controller, and combined with the dehumidifier i will be getting long before bloom starts, my growroom climate should be spot on this time round! Im sure my plants will thank you for it...i know my stash box will hahaha.
Once again. thank you. Whazzup especially thanks for looking in after my pm to you and sticking around to help me more. ill get some pics of the unit up and do a step by step for ppl when it done.
Toke it easy you guys

i meant as contactors for lighting ballasts not for a poxy little fan, as i said, go ahead with a smaller relay for the fan.

unless it's a huge fan, i'd be VERY suprised if it would cause pretty much any relay rated over a few amps at 230v to fail when running under an amp. what if you were using the relay for control, where it'd be switching on contactors or more relays? more likely they just didn't have the full spec of the relay or he didn't know what he was talking about. they can't even get the specs right on the website.

hxxp://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?ITAG=SPEC&ModuleNo=37495&doy=28m1#spec

aparently it's 9000VA resistive and only 840watts resistive? wtf?

i think someone's cocked up somewhere and it's 9000Watts or 840VA inductive load and the guy was just reading from the website. all the relays listed have the same mistake
for example the 15A relay has it's switching power listed at 3600VA resistive and 450Watts resistive?? doesn't make any sense, BUT 450VA would sound like an appropriate derating for an inductive load from 3600Watts (for example 3600watts is approx 13A resistive and 450VA is about 2 - 3Amps same resistive and inductive current ratings for timers and other switching devices)
it's made with silver cadox contacts, same as most relays, capable of switching inductive loads at lower ratings. what size is the fan by the way? just get a bog standard 5A or 10A relay, it'll be fine

I have sorted out the relay thing, Im getting it from lovato who sell Finder stuff in the uk.... I think maplins are pretty crap, ive always had shoddy service from them...
Did you mean my fan scraglor? Ive got 3 right now..airforce af100 for extraction, RVK125A1 for inlet, and RVK150L1 for the A/C lighting..... Prolly going to ditch the bigger RVK and get a Torin 500m3/Hr spiral casting fan, basically the same thing as the airforce but doesnt have the box around it....obviously ill box it myself......
tried to order the ATC temp controller this week and just my luck-after 6 months of looking at it, waiting til i was ready-now the fuckers outta stock...
Damn bugger and blast , never mind...they said it'll be in next week......
toke it easy

aye maplins are crap, no-one i've ever spoken to really knows what they're on about, sods law about the temp controller eh!

ive resurected this because ive got a new question to ask about this controller before i put it all together this week,
now, what i want to do, is have this transformer selecting speed, being swicthed to full by the ATC via relay when the temperature reaches the set point. now that would be what i want it to do in the lights on period.... in the dark period however, i want to have it switch oiver(i know ill need a second relay for this) to the lowest speed setting-without having the thermo involved in that circuit.. I dont want to nighttime speed to be limited to whatever the lights on idling speed is... i want to be able to set it to the lowest useable setting(id geuss the 110) for the darktime.
Now i cant quite work out how to go about doing this, being that theres only one connection for each voltage/speed output on the tranformer, and each is connected to the selector knob via a crimp. Can i safely take the existing crimp off, and replace it with another, but have a second wire in it coming from the second relay
I really hope you understand me coz im confusing myself here ...it seems so easy in my head but try to explain it and im flustered