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The Protection Thread How can I protect my guerrilla grow against wildlife & pests? Rate Topic: ****- 7 Votes

#211 User is offline   Eelhelmet 

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Posted 29 December 2011 - 06:34 PM

I don't work for Hugo boss by the way .
The problem with democracy is two idiots can out vote a genius !
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#212 User is offline   Logik 

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Posted 29 December 2011 - 06:40 PM

im looking for an alternative method of keeping away wild dogs, can't seem to deter em
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#213 _JAKEL_

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Posted 29 December 2011 - 06:45 PM

Wild dogs..?? :unsure:

A 12 bore.. :badass:
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#214 User is offline   Bad Penny. 

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Posted 29 December 2011 - 06:46 PM

Quote

Hugo boss

I was just thinking no way would I waste Hugo Boss on the off-chance a cervid wanted to snack on a couple of plants,a box of 20 RWS .270's is around thirty quid,cheaper than a decent after-shave and you get to fill the freezer :guitar:
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#215 User is offline   Logik 

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Posted 29 December 2011 - 06:47 PM

I prefer not to kill them, they're part of the ecosystem and microcosm that help the ground replenish.

I dont own a 12 bore.... But I do have a compound crossbow

:yinyang:

Possibly some kind of natural repellent. Looked in me books but I tried everything and it's not worked

This post has been edited by Kogik: 29 December 2011 - 06:53 PM

Uproar in the East, Strike in the West
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#216 User is offline   Eelhelmet 

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Posted 30 December 2011 - 05:46 AM

Like I said before BP , use stuff you've had years or unwanted gifts . I prefer Armani myself .
The problem with democracy is two idiots can out vote a genius !
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#217 User is offline   Mark30g 

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Posted 23 February 2012 - 02:58 PM

Awesome post and have wrote a few things on my list, I am currently planning to start my first outdoor grow, as i can no longer grow indoors and i got THAT Growing Bug(haha)My first harvest was a mere 3.5 oz of 9 plants in 1m square tent as Temps were to high before i relised i needed to buy extraction fan + a cooltube. So i have all this equipmet including my new selection of indoor seeds and am glad it fell thru before i moved my equip the new place that is no longer being rented(my time will come, i am just being patience)
Also my back garden i could grow just the 1mmj amoungst my tomatoes and sunflowers but as there indoor seeds could this be possible as i have to grow something HAHA I AM HOOKED 4real man. As for a guerilla grow, i live in a city with not much unused land but i have got my eye on 2 locations that i really needs to scout but not to sure exactly what are the security things i need to look out for apart from the obvious. Also i will start them of at home and harden them of until the last frost is gone in the U.K west as i'm new to the outdoor and no that it is intirerly different from indoors apart from the basics. but any help would be great. thanx :spliff:
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#218 User is offline   Ganjasattva 

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Posted 04 March 2012 - 09:28 PM

Thanks to all, for this very useful thread. Lots of common sense and experience bundled here. I like the ideal of the natural plant barrier such as brambles, burning nettles or such. I plan to try out how well clonex will work to help me multiply many willow or bramble cuttings to plant a barrier around a good plot site. collecting the seeds in the fall of nettles might be a good idea to plant a ring a few meters wide as a deterent zone.
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#219 _shitead_

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Posted 08 March 2012 - 09:05 PM

Hi Ganjasattva, willow roots itself mate, if you cut a willow branch and shove it in the soil it'll grow. You can also use it to make willow water, this is natural cloning/rooting hormone, cut some willow into 6" lengths and soak in a jar of water overnight, this water acts as clonex does. Poplar tree's also grow the same way as willow, cut a branch of poplar and shove it in the ground and it'll root itself.
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#220 User is offline   Ganjasattva 

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Posted 13 March 2012 - 01:20 PM

View Postshitead, on 08 March 2012 - 09:05 PM, said:

Hi Ganjasattva, willow roots itself mate, if you cut a willow branch and shove it in the soil it'll grow. You can also use it to make willow water, this is natural cloning/rooting hormone, cut some willow into 6" lengths and soak in a jar of water overnight, this water acts as clonex does. Poplar tree's also grow the same way as willow, cut a branch of poplar and shove it in the ground and it'll root itself.

Hey shitead, thanks for the info on poplar, I had no knowledge of that one rooting like willow! Yeah I know the willow does that, but I had only seen whole branches, meaning from the cut to the intact growth tip being planted and rooted. I was thinking of trying it(with or without a rooting aid compound) on multiple short segments of each branch. I don't have much willow to scavenge in the immediate area which is why I was thinking about some way to mass-multiply the few branches I could take somewhere without it making a visible change to the tree appearance.

I recently tried to root a Hibiscus cutting with the willow tea idea, I did half just soaked willow and half steeped in fairly hot but not scalding water. Unfortunately I was not successful on that yet. Maybe the Hibiscus doesn't root easily or the willow wasn't ok or the moon-phase was wrong, I don't know. But I will do further tries. My feeling is that it must work so must be one of the other variables in the game!
I think first year rooted willow cuttings could make a potentially optimal stealth shield for a grow behind that screen because from a distance, the leaves look more alike (to cannabis) than most others that might be viewed and judged as wild and fitting to an outdoor grow setting. Blackberries/Brambles and the like would be great deterrents due to their thorns, but unfortunately I have decided against attempting to employ them because they also attract berry pickers and also hungry animals.

Right now I think the burning nettles and willow are probably the best the best ideas for my situation. The advantage of the willow, especially typical boughs as you suggest, is that you already have a height which would hide the just germinating plants. I will try to look into poplar and see if I can find access to that or more of it than willow. Thanks again!

This post has been edited by Ganjasattva: 13 March 2012 - 01:21 PM

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#221 User is offline   gsxr1 

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Posted 02 April 2012 - 10:02 PM

I was at a good garden center today and seen a new product called Grazers . It is sprayed on the the plant and around the area. They claim to stop rabbit, deer and other rodent damage to the plant without harming it. Have a look at the site . same word .co.uk I was thinking of buying it but it is expensive. Have any of you used it. It claims to be safe on veg so im guessing it will be safe on MJ plants.

There does not seem to be any info on how it works on the website or bottle which does concern me a little. I might email them on this.
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#222 User is offline   fish and chips 

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Posted 03 April 2012 - 05:08 AM

View Postgsxr1, on 02 April 2012 - 10:02 PM, said:

I was at a good garden center today and seen a new product called Grazers . It is sprayed on the the plant and around the area. They claim to stop rabbit, deer and other rodent damage to the plant without harming it. Have a look at the site . same word .co.uk I was thinking of buying it but it is expensive. Have any of you used it. It claims to be safe on veg so im guessing it will be safe on MJ plants.

There does not seem to be any info on how it works on the website or bottle which does concern me a little. I might email them on this.


I would just stick to making bunny cages out of chicken wire, you cant fail with this method and its been proven over and over. The spray may work for a while maybe even just a few days, i cant see it lasting 5-6 months.
You can get 50 metres of chicken wire for 24 quid of a well known auction site and that could make you about 50 cages if you cut them a metre each, and they will last for years.
Plus i wouldnt wana be spraying ewt on my plants unless it was 100% organic.

ive just read the website and it says you need to apply it every day for 2-3 days and then once a month depending on time of year, location, type and age of plants at risk so it is important to monitor, so probably more than once a month really.

Seems like a lot of messing about and too many site visits for my liking i'd personally just stick to cages, or i suppose you could try both if you really wanted.
Im not trying to shoot you down, but this is just my opinion :yinyang:

Good luck either way :skin_up:
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#223 User is offline   Ganjasattva 

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Posted 03 April 2012 - 11:09 AM

View PostMidnite Rambler, on 07 May 2007 - 03:37 PM, said:

One strategy not yet mentioned for protection against deer is to locate close to motorway intersections, or at least a busy trunk road. Seems that around 10,000 a year die on Britains roads, if they are on their way to munch on my budding beauties well they deserve all they get. Increased CO2 levels too.


Hey guys, I also agree with the proximity to roads and highways for a number of reasons:

No interest in the locale by pedestrians as an "experience nature" hiking area; not a preferred area for searching for edibles such as mushrooms or berries due to the higher pollution image; the barrier effect to all types of the "unwanted" - not only the hikers/bikers already mentioned but also deer and dogs and their owners; the people passing by- aka driving- are unlikely to be able to see or correctly take note of the plants due to speed and concentration on driving; also the fact that sunlight will be less blocked from one side since highways are normally cleared of trees ;-) ; the embankments can have advantages of lighting and drainage in other wise dark heavily forested areas or otherwise too wet and swampy surroundings; overpass embankments, 20, 30 or more yards set back from the underpassing road are areas normally completely overlooked. I realized this when I tried to visualize such areas/places I have been driving past regularly for many years and it occurred to me, that I had not taken notice or observed in any detail whatsoever, such places, although I am an observant person, so I assume the normal guy will also just drive by and notice nothing too...

The CO2 thing is a very significant factor for several reasons, the plants will convert it to plant fiber and 02 so good for the environment and they will grow much faster.

I have located a number of such fitting locations and speaking of the deer, often the highway is fenced in to keep deer from crossing the motorway! So just inside that fencing, where no one normally ever goes, is a near perfect stealth setting, especially with short height, fast-growing auto-flowering strains I feel would be the most advantageous to this avail.

The only special precaution I would recommend is that since no-one usually goes or hikes around these areas, anyone SEEN doing so in the daytime will be registered as UNUSUAL and suspecious. So I would recommend using night-vision equipment or full-moon nights for night-shift work only at such locales.

Let the Project OVERGROW begin...

This post has been edited by Ganjasattva: 03 April 2012 - 11:14 AM

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#224 User is offline   gsxr1 

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Posted 03 April 2012 - 05:42 PM

responce from grazers.
Thank you for your email.
Grazers is a calcium based product classes officially as a nutrient. Our (and Grazers) background is trace elements and foliar feed supplied to farmers after soil analysis in an attempt to reduce the use of conventional fertilizer.
Grazers is absorbed in a very dilute formula and affects the taste to wildlife grazing. We cannot taste it in the plant it works on their very sensitive taste. Also most damage is done at the young plant stage long before harvest.
There is a safety data sheet link from the web site if you would like to have a look or if you would prefer I can send you one.
I hope this offers some reassurance.
Perhaps it would help to know we also run a small organic farm and care very strongly about the health and welfare of the environment and all that live in it.



I cant use cages as I think a walker may raise an eyebrow to them... Im going to try the stuff. It might be the best thing ever and is only needed when the plant is small. By the time flowering takes place, it should be worn off.
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#225 User is offline   fish and chips 

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Posted 04 April 2012 - 08:48 PM

View Postgsxr1, on 03 April 2012 - 05:42 PM, said:

responce from grazers.
Thank you for your email.
Grazers is a calcium based product classes officially as a nutrient. Our (and Grazers) background is trace elements and foliar feed supplied to farmers after soil analysis in an attempt to reduce the use of conventional fertilizer.
Grazers is absorbed in a very dilute formula and affects the taste to wildlife grazing. We cannot taste it in the plant it works on their very sensitive taste. Also most damage is done at the young plant stage long before harvest.
There is a safety data sheet link from the web site if you would like to have a look or if you would prefer I can send you one.
I hope this offers some reassurance.
Perhaps it would help to know we also run a small organic farm and care very strongly about the health and welfare of the environment and all that live in it.



I cant use cages as I think a walker may raise an eyebrow to them... Im going to try the stuff. It might be the best thing ever and is only needed when the plant is small. By the time flowering takes place, it should be worn off.


Well it's up to you completly, and im not trying to argue so dont take this info in a wrong way, im just trying to help a fellow GG, but i would strongly advise against it.
To be honest the cages are really hard to spot because the wire is so thin, i was thinking the same as you last year so i even sprayed some of them green to blend them in with the background, trust me you will be tripping over them beacause they're almost invisable.
so really if anyone's close enough to see your cages then they are going to see your plants anyway im afraid, well in 95% percent of the cases anyway.
can i ask why you think they will be seen? are they close to a public footpath or an area popular with dog walkers or somyhing along them lines??? :yinyang:
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