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1. The first bag to go in, the 25µ bag. It is the smallest micron bag in the 7 bag kit, and often the full melt bag for sativa' strains

2. The second bag, 45µ bag. This bag produces a very nice grade of head. Often consistent, when used with certain types of plant material, comes out blonde, to white.

3. The third bag, 73µ, often called the full melt bag. If your bubble is going to bubble, it's often found here first.

4. The 120µ bag! Yields a nice grade of bubble.

5. The 160µ bag. Sometimes very nice when used with a dominant indica variety with large glands, or it can clean contaminant out of your 120µ and 73µ bags.

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6. The 190µ bag. It pulls most of the contaminant out of the final product, and that's why we use it all the time.

7. The final bag, the 220µ work bag, our most durable bag. It does not get caught in hand mixers and rip like the cheaper lower quality copies available.

That is the conclusion of part 1, for a seven bag kit. If you have a 3, or 6 bag kits, you would just place them in the bucket in the same order minus the bags that are not including in those bag sets. Ok, now that we have added the last bag, it is now time to put our water in the bucket. A recommended practice is to have your water and ice settling together in a separate bucket. This will get keep the water nice and cold and eliminate a common problem of not putting enough ice in, with too much water, so when it all melts all you have left is to add water.

8. Four small bags of Fresh Frozen plant trim in them.

9. Here is a large bowl of trim about to be tossed into the bags to be turned into sweet Bubblehash.

10. Adding some nice cold water from the tap helps in keeping the ice from melting all at once.

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11/12. Add your leaf! This is the most important part of the process. Any plant containing glandular trichomes will work with this process. Its important to note that when adding the leaf, do not put any in until you have raised your water above the level of the screen. This will keep contaminant from entering your first few bags right from the start.

13. Adding trays and trays of ice will get the water temp down to zero degreess

14. Nice large cubes of glacier water, will surely make this batch a success. The ice makes the melt.

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15. Mixing for fifteen minutes is all you need to procure the finest heads, go back for the rest a second time if you feel the need.

16. Keep the mixer well out of the water as this can be dangerous. I suggest using a hand mixer for all those that don't want to play with electricity.

17. Let the mixture sit for half an hour after mixing to allow for gland heads to settle

18. Once this bag has settled for half an hour you can pull it out, being careful to not let small pieces of leaf into your bags underneath it.

From here we settle the bags for half an hour. Allowing the resin glands to sink down, now that they have been broken free from their cannabis wombs. They sink down in the water and fall thru our series of screens. The first to be pulled will be the blue bag. Containing all the leaf material, you can do one of two things here. A: dump the contents into your compost , or B: save the washed material in order to run again another day. We recommend throwing it away once you have gotten used to the process of using the Bubblebags. Its important to now flip your work bag inside out and rinse it off completely with cold water. Doing this immediately after emptying is important. Then leaving it out to dry is important as well. folding this bag up wet will produce dry rot and ruin your bags over time. Pulling the second bag, the 190u, we see that its practically pure contaminant, And you don't have to be an expert to see that its green, and grainy looking not much like what we want at all

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19. Pulling the blue bag here can save you some quality control if you simply do not squeeze it out. As all the things that the water was keeping afloat will now blow thru your bag. We recommend not squeezing the bag into the next one.

20. Pulling the green bag out now will allow us to see what it has trapped on its screen

21. The 190µ screen, pure contaminant, very little heads what so ever.

We now have the 160µ to deal with. As it is sometimes has a decent resin, we use a simple bowl method to gather the resin. If you can, use a large salad bowl to wrap the bubble bags around the bowl, inside out, in order to stretch the screen for easy glandular removal.

22. We can now safely pull out the 160µ bag.

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23. There is some more material we have separate out from the 190µ and 120µ bags.

24. The resin is easily scrapped off with a spoon and some water by stretching the bag over a bowl like this.

25. The 160µ bag, wrapped around the bowl for easy resin removal. This bowl is a must if your using a five gallon kit.

26. Cleaning off the 160µ bag, in the sink is ok when the resin is as low quality as this one. We use the bowl method once again to get rid of this resin as it's minimal and not worth keeping.

27. We can now pull out this orange 120µ bag

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28. The 120µ heads floating in the water. Nice color so far.

29. Bubble water works wonders!

30. Using the bubble water, is great for pooling the resin into one section of the screen. Place the bag inside out in the large bowl, and push down on the middle of the screen, allowing the resin to naturally go into that pool. Sprinkle gently with water.

We can clean the spoon off inside the rest of the bags that are waiting to be pulled. Also with the 120µ bag the resin was high enough quality, that we rinse into the bucket as well, this will trap all the left over resin we couldn't get off, inside the 73u grade. A nice trick to know. We then move on to our 73µ bag. This is always a fun bag to pull no matter what strain you are using. Its the standard bag to look for your quality.

31. Also a great place to clean your spoon, remember saving potentially lost resin is A GOOD THING.

32. Cleaning the 120µ bag inside the other bags and bucket, a very good way of saving potentially lost resin.

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33. The 73µ is now ready to pull.

34. The 73µ bag can sometimes drain slowly. This is a simple thing to remedy, just synch the bag at the top and jerk it upwards about three inches, then let it drop. this will allow the water to drop through while the resin is lifted in the air off the screen.

35. Some nice 73µ full melt bubble sitting awaiting harvest.

36. Up close, you can see why we call it bubble.

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37. Stretched over the bowl for easy removal, again.

38. A very light colored 73µ, but highly fragrant. .

The up close resin shot shows right away that it is of top quality. The photos below show really well how cleaning the spoon in the bucket saves you a lot of resin. That’s a whole lot of heads floating around in there.

39. Cleaning it off good.

40. Cleaning the spoon off in your bubble water.

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We clean our 73µ's often, because it produces some of the finest resin when using it, inside the bucket, in order to trap potentialy lost resin gland heads. This is a great method while the bag is wrapped inside out in the bowl. Afew turns inside the water and its clean as a whistle. Also remember to do this immediately after cleaning the majority of the resin off. We then come to our 45µ bag. The second most recent bag added to our collection. For those of you that have followed the birth of bubble bag, you would remember the 250µ bag which we discontinued and added a 45µ bag. The 25µ was always enjoyed when it first came out, but we knew we could improve upon that resin by splitting it up yet another size, and what we have is some very consistently nice bubble hash. Always with a light sandy color. Often the lightest hash in the group. Certainly is in this case.

41. Upside down and ready to go in.

42. We can clean the yellow 73µ bag inside the bucket and save any potentialy lost resin heads

43. By dropping the bag down six inches after jerking it upward, you allow the water to pass thru the screen while the resin is floating off the screen. Doing this a few times in a row will quickly drain a slow draining bag.

44. Light tan coloured bubble spread over 45µ screen.

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45. The bowl method is used for removing resin from the screens, we have yet to find something that works better.

Here we have more spoon cleaning going on. This time from the 45µ resin heads going into the 25µ bag. As you can see this 45µ resin is absolutely bright beige to white. It's realy a nice sandy resin, i'm sure a full melter by looks alone.

46. The infamous white lady.

47. You can clearly see thats a good amount of resin we will trap in the bag.

48. More spoon cleaning, 45µ into 25µ bag.

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49. Draing the 25µ bag will be quick and easy with this synch and jerk method.

50. 25µ the tiniest of the heads available spread out over the 25µ screen, ready to be removed with the spoon.

51. Once again the bowl method, a nice tight screen can solve alot of problems and eliminate potential mess.

53. Cleaning the 25µ bag inside the bucket, not that we will collect any of this resin it still needs to be cleaned off the screen.

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53. All of the six sizes of gland heads laid out on the pressing screen.

Once all the grades are on the pressing screen, you can simply place it on a towel, close the screen, cover it with the towel and press lightly with a large wooden rolloer or what ever you have available. Pressing lightly is important as when you pull these cookies out you want to break them into powder over thick card board to dry.

54. Close the pressing screen, cover with the towel and press. Towel covering the pressing screen, ready to be pressed, should be done lighter with higher quality resin, as it will quickly press together and not break up easily in which case will not dry properly.

Finaly we have the end results all pressed nicely into cookie shapes.You should note that leaving the bubble in this pressed cookie form is by no means a proper drying process, they should be broken up into powder while still wet and placed over a thick card board that will act as a dessicant and remove the water from your bubble.

Reproduced with permission from www.bubblebags.com

[Joolz]

Warlock bubble hash, photo courtesy of Hydronaut