[krafty]

Right this being my first grow, I'm planning my next. Real enjoyable hobby!

Now, due to a average home being reasonably comfortable at might temp wise. My plan was just shut windows when lights go off.
Now this has failed in the sense that I have been caught out, and medication I have been on has had me heating up, didn't realise it for about a month, but just come off and cold has hit!
thought the Mrs was ill when she was saying she was cold.
Looking at my buds, I think there underdeveloped. I ain't told sure as it's my first grow....
But on my next I want to make sure things are perfect!

What are my options with regards to ventilation.
I don't mind a bigget outlay, but don't want steep running costs.

What about a automatic controller? One for two fans, or one for a fan and heater?

Should I just have a oil rad heater on all lights off and let a fan controller do it's work.

Or have a heater on a thermostat come on throughout lights off when need, although a oil filled rad will be slow warming!

I'm struggling to get my head around options and work out the best configuration.
Any help appreciated, as I am a bit of a mess right now thinking I've lowered my crop!

[distracted]

use an oil filled rad if needed, use the house air as the intake air when it's cold to keep the temps up, make sure your fan is moving plenty of air through and you have enough light per square foot of growroom, 50w+ /sq. ft also get the lights as close as you can without causing the plants issues..... where are you growing? whats the setup?

This post has been edited by distracted: 11 April 2012 - 09:13 PM

[krafty]

I have a rather good set up.

Dr150
2 x aero wing 600w
Overkill rhino
Overkill 1500m3 Torin box fan
Gt100nft

I just want to make it so I can set things up, and not have to worry about getting back, our the room getting muggy.

So thinking of some sort of controller, but what one,
And a heater.

Do I have the heater on a thermostat and Timer for lights out, with a automatic twin fan controller, or a heater/fan controller together.

want to heat peoples own experience with any thing like this.

This post has been edited by krafty: 12 April 2012 - 01:43 AM

[distracted]

my heater is oil filled and thermostatically controlled by an inbuilt controller

[krafty]

Cheers distracted, do you have any automatic control over fan speed, or just have one constant speed lights on and off....?
Does your environment stay well controlled?

[babystarbud]

krafty, on 12 April 2012 - 10:02 AM, said:

Cheers distracted, do you have any automatic control over fan speed, or just have one constant speed lights on and off....?
Does your environment stay well controlled?

Ive been using a dial type plug timer for my fan, which ive pins set in an on/off/on/off configuration so rather than controlling speed, it runns at 100% for 12mins, then turns off for 12 mins, etc.
The net effect is the same as slowing the fan down, plus its using 50% less power compared to always on at 100%.

If needed I could have it on 100% during lights on, and then follow an on/off regieme during dark.

Might be an idea to consider?

[Floyd]

Hi mate, if you want perfect control over your extraction and money ain't tight then the daddy is the

SMSCOM Mechanical Controllers 8 Amp, 12 Amp & 16 Amp



These twin fan controllers are the mechanical version of the popular SPC and Twin Fan Controller range but they adjust fan speed using a 5 step transformer. Although they are quiet big and heavy in comparison and are not quite as sophisticated in operation as the newer versions, they guarantee no buzzing or humming regardless of the type of fans being used.

They provide accurate climate control by stepping up and down the speed of your inlet and exhaust fans to maintain the temperature set. There is no need to adjust the fan speeds independently of each other as the SMC will do this for you automatically. You will always have the perfect temperature and the correct air pressure within the room.

The SMC is very easy to use. Simply plug in your fans, set the temperature and the SMC will do the rest.

• Extremely accurate temperature control
• 5 step speed control transformer for silent operation
• No buzzing or humming regardless of fan type
• Automatically optimises air pressure
• No need to adjust fan speeds yourself- The SMC does it all for you
• Makes your ventilation system work quietly and efficiently
• SMC will always provide ventilation even if overloaded
• 1.8m probe
• Plug and play -no wiring necessary
• 5 Year Warranty

Cheaper options for no buzz control are using a variac fan controller, but this has to be manually adjusted, unlike the above one that keeps the fan
as low as it can, only kicking up when your chosen temp is exceed.


For temp control I would recommend Forttex stuff as it is Superb, cheap, British and very accurate.

ATC-200 Digital HeatingThermostat for £25.00




Specifications

Thermostat Size: 150 long by 85mm wide by 45mm deep
Controlling Range: 0c to 40c
Resolution: 1c
Power Supply: 220v AC +/- 10% 50 to 60Hz
Power Consumption: less than 1.5w
Heating and 2nd Power Socket Output: 1200w Max
Sensor Cable Length: 2 metre approx
Sensor Diameter: 6mm approx
Sensor Type: NTC. Sealed, plastic coated and waterproof

forttex.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=71


or


ATC-210 The Intelligent Digital Dimming Thermostat For £30


This temp controller would be handy for keeping your room at a separate day and night temp.
If using up to a 600w heat source it will dim the power to keep temps stable and save £££ on electric.

ALL IN ONE

Night & Day Temperature Settings
With Additional Lighting Timer.

Summary

Accurate control between 0c to 50c (32F to 122F)
Independent Day and Night Temperature settings
Intelligent dimming, steady constant heat if needed
Built-in lighting timer with 2 on off settings
Digital, no more trying to guess the temperature
Clear easy read display, red light, can be read in dark
Waterproof safe sensor
Easy to operate
Battery backed up clock
Wall mountable

forttex.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_18&products_id=50


They also do a ATC-800+ that will perform both Heating and Cooling operations from the same unit.


Control Temperature Range: -19.9°C to 99°C (adjustable)
Display Resolution: in 0.1°C
Control Temperature Difference: 1 to 10°C (adjustable)
Power Supply: 220V AC ± 10% 50Hz
Heating Relay Capacity: 10A : 2400W (max) 240V AC
Refrigeration Relay Capacity: 20A: 4800W (max) 240V AC
Ambient Working Temperature Range: 0 to +60°C
Working Humidity: 20% to 85%
Accuracy: <±1°C
Sensor: NTC Shielded Line
Normal Consumption: <5W
Compressor Delay Protection Time: 3 Minutes
ATC-800+ Size: 18 x 10 x 6 cm (W x H x D)
ATC-800+ Within Enclosure:19 x 12 x 6 cm (W x H x D)
Sensor Cable Length: 2 metre

forttex.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1_5_27_17

That will keep your room spot on



GF

[krafty]

Will the sms, be able to control different temperatures at different times for when my lights go off, or does it just hold one constant temperature all the way through?

If I ran this, what would be the best way to make sure it doesnt get to cold if the environment the tent in is. A heater on a thermostat? If so, would the heater on the thirmostat coming on, make the fans up there work, and thus keep the heater on.
I like this option, if the dont start working against eachother and keeping the other one on.

[Floyd]

Okay mate, they wont work agents each other, but rather in harmony.

Say you had the SMS with one extractor, and passive intakes and the ATC-200 Digital HeatingThermostat with a tube heater/oil rad plugged in.

Set the SMS to 25c and minimum fan speed to 20% for instance.

Your SMS will quietly keep 20% airflow moving, giving you constant fresh air and negative pressure. Once your temps climb above 25c due to the heat from your bulb, the
SMS will step up the voltage to your fan, increasing the speed until the temp drops to 24c


Set the ATC-200 to 22c

During lights on your bulb will be heating the room above 22c so the ATC-200 will NOT switch on until the lights go off.
Then the ATC will switch on your heater once the temps drop to 21c

Hope this helps you understand mate

[lazi]

50 quid gets you this from the bay:

EL-USB2 Temperature & Humidity Data Logger / Recorder

The regular min/max meters give you 2 snapshots of humidity and temps. The data logger gives you minute by minute readings. Also gives you 'dew point' readings, control of which greatly reduces losses to mould. This means you can go higher with humidity, resulting in more yield.

ime this will allow you have good climate control while avoiding steep running costs. I found it essential when first using a tent in a damp cellar. Without it, I'd never have learned how close temps and dew point got when the lights turned on.

This post has been edited by lazi: 12 April 2012 - 02:51 PM

[krafty]

Cheers GreenFloyd, Dose this mean the heater would have to be on all night? I wouldnt mind if its say a 500w (would this be enough) but a 2kw heater on constant would be too much.
Although I suppose general house temps would stop the heater coming on too much, its just when im caught out etc. Or it dips a bit too low.

If the heater would be able to come on and go off throughout the night, would a oilrad be ok, or too slow to get to temps?

Sorry for so many questions, but I want to be able to really dial in my next grow to perfection.

This first ive learnt alot, Now I dont want to potentially waste any more time.

Cheers....

[Floyd]

krafty, on 12 April 2012 - 02:51 PM, said:

Cheers GreenFloyd, Dose this mean the heater would have to be on all night? I wouldnt mind if its say a 500w (would this be enough) but a 2kw heater on constant would be too much.
Although I suppose general house temps would stop the heater coming on too much, its just when im caught out etc. Or it dips a bit too low.

If the heater would be able to come on and go off throughout the night, would a oilrad be ok, or too slow to get to temps?

Sorry for so many questions, but I want to be able to really dial in my next grow to perfection.

This first ive learnt alot, Now I dont want to potentially waste any more time.

Cheers....

The heater would only come on until the set temp was reached,then it would go off.
How long it would need to come on for and how how often, would depend on the heater and the ambient temp of the air you
bring into the growspace.

I use a 2k fan heater (set on 1k) but I have just got a 150w underfloor heating mat and two 180w tube heaters.

Okay, a 1000w heater might cost more to run when it's on but it is not on as long as say a 600w heater, plus it heats faster, no heating up time.

I have opted to change to tube heaters as my growroom is outside and I need heat right at the bottom for the cool air coming in.
My fan heater is a wall mounted, up high as my floor space is for but and nothing else
But this does not get warm air to the bottom sufficiently.

If money was not an issue you could go mad and get this:

Indiana Electric Greenhouse Heater 2KW



Bio Green Indiana Electric Greenhouse Heater
Efficient Air Circulation means that coldspots and hotspots are eliminated
4 Heating Modes, 1000 or 2000 Watts, with or without fan circulation
The fan can be set to remain on, even when the thermostat turns off. This aids ventilation and helps to prevent plant disease in the greenhouse
Complete with 1.8m long cable and 13 Amp plug


The type of heater depends on your where you want to put it, inside the growspace or outside, next to an intake?

[THCC]

Hi 420,

Does anyone know if the sms mechanical makes much or any noise when switching between its 5 settings?

Grateful for replys. Cheers.

[krafty]

Right, but say I set my fans to go no lower than 22, and the heater to come on at 21.
Is the heater then not going to come on, and the fans keep pulling in fresh air, thus keeping the heater on?
I only want the heater on intermittently really.....

Do you see what I am saying, Or is my logic not working?

I meant I dont mind spending a couple of hundred!

[Floyd]

krafty, on 12 April 2012 - 06:17 PM, said:

Right, but say I set my fans to go no lower than 22, and the heater to come on at 21.
Is the heater then not going to come on, and the fans keep pulling in fresh air, thus keeping the heater on?
I only want the heater on intermittently really.....

Do you see what I am saying, Or is my logic not working?

I meant I dont mind spending a couple of hundred!

Ideally you would want a few degrees difference between your lights on temp and lights off so you would not have the potential
issue you describe.

You set the fan on 25c and that is your light on temps sorted, your heater will not come on.

When your light is off, the temp will drop as no heat from the bulb. Once the temp drops bellow 22c your heater will come on brining
it back up to 22c.

It will never reach 25c or over during lights off so your fan speed will not increase, it will stay on the minimum speed you set it at, say 20%


Here is some info on temps:

Your plant's will grow healthy in temperatures between 21c and 29c and they will grow
fastest in temperatures between 22c and 26c I aim for 24/25c light's on and 22c lights off.
Temperatures bellow 21c and above 29c slows the plants metabolism, thus slowing growth.

There are many who grow at the extremes all the time and say 29c is fine or higher and although they get no problems,
they are not seeing how good the plant would look when grown at the correct temperatures.

Also temperature is connected to your light conditions. The more light available (watts per sq ft) the higher the ideal
temperature for your plant gets.

During the dark period, the temperature can be allowed to drop up to 5c without slowing growth but much more and
the plants can suffer slowed growth and stretching.

Plants kept at a more consistent temperature are likely to grow better, sturdier and denser.

Root temperature is just as important as the canopy and should be slightly cooler.

Heat water/feed to a temperature that is around the pot temperature to avoid cooling the medium and shocking the plants.
Ther hotter the air, the cooler the water can be.


GF