Granules
#31
Posted 23 February 2009 - 06:25 AM
I was just wondering if anyone used all of them together.
Cheers
#32
Posted 24 February 2009 - 09:22 AM
Smoke it in a rizla, smoke it in a pipe...smoke it any damn way you like
Lots of Roots = Lots of Zoots
#33
Posted 24 February 2009 - 05:09 PM
The Villain, on Feb 23 2009, 06:54 AM, said:
I was just wondering if anyone used all of them together.
Cheers
The Villain, I have used all of the plant magic products except catalyst, I have some, just not tested it yet.
I’m not sure what you mean by using them all together. If you mean at the same time, I think its something I would not do, I’m into minimal intervention, pushing my plants as little as possible.
I have used Granules for several years, from rooted cuttings onwards, ie a small dust on the rootball at every time I pot on, I’m in no doubt inoculating the roots with ecto and endo Mycorrhiza plus a host of good soil bacteria greatly improves plant health, root mass, nutrient availability and uptake in a good way.
In the growroom I only tend to use essence as a foliar, and then only if I see the very first sign of leafspot fungus. You need to be very observant, seeing it at almost the sub clinical stages. I also use essence about once a month to give my mums a treat. For this its a combination of seaweed extract, boost, molasses and yucca extract, used as both a drench and foliar at the same time.
I use very low levels of bio wetter = yucca extract in every water or feed, this is the only product I use all the time.
I am currently testing the bio silicon, I was so impressed with how the half of the plants treated responded, that I decided to treat all of the room the next time, so half have had one treatment and the other half two doses, the one treatment plants have not caught up or are quite as sturdy but I can see they responded, I’m impressed with this product, I’ve been using it as a drench at less than half recommended strength ie about 1 ml per 2.5 litres of water.
Do I need any of these products? I would say no, because I have grown very successfully for several tens of years. They are more like having more tools to work with making my life easier, so for me its more a matter of fine tuning my growing.
So if any of you get a fungal leaf infection, something everyone will come up against sooner or later if you keep growing, essence has always stopped leaf fungus in its tracks for me. Its a tool I think everyone should have in their armory just in case, or to use as a preventative.
A. You take a splinter off my cross, tie a few hairs to one end of it, dip the hairs into the pollen and lightly brush the pistils with it.
#34
Posted 24 February 2009 - 05:19 PM
#35 _gunnaknow_
Posted 12 April 2009 - 02:06 AM
#36
Posted 16 April 2009 - 08:15 AM
gunnaknow, on Apr 12 2009, 03:35 AM, said:
Hi,
The Granules contain a unique blend including the Essence. So, it would be alot more cost effective to just grab a small pot of essence rather than bubbling up the granules.
Yes, the granules and the essence both contain Trichoderma.
#37 _gunnaknow_
Posted 16 April 2009 - 11:20 AM
plantmagic, on Apr 16 2009, 09:44 AM, said:
gunnaknow, on Apr 12 2009, 03:35 AM, said:
Hi,
The Granules contain a unique blend including the Essence. So, it would be alot more cost effective to just grab a small pot of essence rather than bubbling up the granules.
Yes, the granules and the essence both contain Trichoderma.
Thanks PM, does the trichoderma not die when brewed? Or is it just myco spores that need to find roots as soon as they are hydrated? Is the main difference between the granules and Essence that the granules contain myco and the Essence doesn't? I presume that the granules are cheaper than the Essence powder per gram because the granules contain alot of food and nutrients where as the Essence powder doesn't? Thanks.
gunna
#38
Posted 16 April 2009 - 04:15 PM
No the trichodermas are not killed by the brewing process but activated, once activated by the brewing process, the trichoderma envelope or skin is very delicate, great care is needed when spraying as its very easy to shred them as they go through the spray nozzle, thats why it is recommended that low pressure and a course setting that forms droplets rather than a fine setting that makes a mist is used.
The ecto and endo mycorrhiza spores in the granules can remain viable for up to 12 months once in a soil environment, ie until live roots come into contact with the granules, most inoculants are not like this. Yes the granule contains a supply of everything needed to activate and support the micro life spores it contains until they are established.
A. You take a splinter off my cross, tie a few hairs to one end of it, dip the hairs into the pollen and lightly brush the pistils with it.
#39 _gunnaknow_
Posted 16 April 2009 - 06:46 PM
#40
Posted 24 April 2009 - 09:07 AM
oldtimer1, on Feb 23 2009, 12:08 AM, said:
As a general comment while mycorrhizals work in symbiosis with roots, they need a soil/compost that they can help the plant with, so they are not much good with pure peat compost that only have chemical salt fertilisers as nutrients. Pure peat composts are like a desert, pretty much a dead medium, the fungi an bacteria spores in the granules have nothing to work with. Adding worm compost, rock dust and manure products start to bring it alive, as do humates and fulvates.
I have a few questions for PM&OT based on this:
I am currently using a 50% coco 40% compost 10% perlite mix, feeding only with fish mix and the occasional seaweed and root stim and am loving it. The growth is explosive compared to the soil only, then soil/perlite mix I was using before. the main difference I notice is when watering, not only does the coco suck up the water like a sponge, even when bone dry, but the plants do not wilt at all even when thoroughly drenched. I like the coco so much, I'm thinking of ditching the compost altogether. But for a few things....
First off, I like the idea of organic growing. The biobizz fish mix I'm using is doing fine, plus I am just about getting to grips with the whole feeding regime. I can now confidntly treat my plants when I see a deficiency wihout overdoing it. I can now adjust feeds for each individual plant and get it pretty much right, I'm quite pleased in that respect, the last thing I want to be doing now is starting with ec pens and such when I'm only just getting to grips with this method. Plus, I want to use some of the Plant Magic products and am wondering aboout their viability/effectiveness for use in coco.
My question is based on the whole micro-herd subject. Now, I know you've previously stated that coco can be used, so long as a sufficient breeding grounds for the micro herd are established within it, by mixing worm castings into it etc. But how does this tie in with me wanting to re use my coco instead of throwing it away?
What are your thoughts on me reusing my coco if it contains worm castings or loam? Would I be able to do this?
My second question is about the population of the medium itself and the ability of the bacteria to survive and thrive when using only coco fibre:
Adding the loam/worm shit to the coco provides the bacteria with a breeding ground, but, if they have already begun to multiply as a result of the brewing, does that not mean that at least some of what they need is present in the molasses and seaweed, and if so, why is it that merely watering the brewed bacteria into the coco, then continuing to supply them with the same nutrients, would not have the same effect?
Would regular feedings of the right sort, or a tea made with the castings, not keep their levels up to a sufficient number?
By the way, many thanks to the people here who've helped me so far.
This post has been edited by papaduc: 24 April 2009 - 09:18 AM
#41
Posted 25 April 2009 - 10:23 PM
A. You take a splinter off my cross, tie a few hairs to one end of it, dip the hairs into the pollen and lightly brush the pistils with it.
#42 _gunnaknow_
Posted 26 April 2009 - 03:13 AM
plantmagic, on Apr 16 2009, 09:44 AM, said:
gunnaknow, on Apr 12 2009, 03:35 AM, said:
Hi,
The Granules contain a unique blend including the Essence. So, it would be alot more cost effective to just grab a small pot of essence rather than bubbling up the granules.
Yes, the granules and the essence both contain Trichoderma.
PM, how much of the granules should be used if using it instead of Essence, as a foliar? I presume that the granules are less concentrated than Essence powder but by how much? Would it need to be brewed before application or could it be dissolved in water and molasses and then sprayed within the hour? Thanks.
gunna
#43
Posted 26 April 2009 - 10:29 PM
oldtimer1, on Apr 25 2009, 11:52 PM, said:
Thanks. Forgot to add that I have used rock dust in my mix. Will that be enough to keep them going
#44
Posted 27 April 2009 - 06:23 AM
gunnaknow, on Apr 26 2009, 04:42 AM, said:
gunna
Firstly granules are not soluble, I recently dug up a 6 year old strawberry bed that had been inoculated, you could still see the granule carrier, the granules are made to distribute and establish spores locally in soil, the amount of the spores tiny compared to essence, the whole make up of the two products and their delivery methods is different, the balance of types of one made to populate the aerial environment is totally soluble, the other for a soil environment.
papaduc, on Apr 26 2009, 11:58 PM, said:
oldtimer1, on Apr 25 2009, 11:52 PM, said:
Thanks. Forgot to add that I have used rock dust in my mix. Will that be enough to keep them going
Yes pretty much ok I would say.
A. You take a splinter off my cross, tie a few hairs to one end of it, dip the hairs into the pollen and lightly brush the pistils with it.
#45 _gunnaknow_
Posted 27 April 2009 - 09:33 AM

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