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#16 plantmagic

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Posted 17 June 2010 - 08:46 AM

Hey there PM folks - I find myself wondering just why this stuff is so damned expensive?!? You have any plans on bringing the price down? I mean that's 72/litre! - Your other products seem rather reasonably priced indeed by comparison.

Cheers for your input.

',;~}~


Hi Flowwolf,

The Bio-Wetter is a product line that we very nearly did not carry mainly down to the expense. It is by far the worst product line in terms of making any profit on, we offer it at as best a price as we can, there is no room for adjustment on price as we too pay a huge premium on it.

The only reason why we carry it in our range is because we believe it is phenomenal stuff, we make next to nothing on this product but as it compliments the Essence and the rest of the beneficial range nicely we decided to run with it.

There are other co.s offering "yukka extract", but unfortunately they do not tell you the concentration values. Some may be as low as only 5% yukka and the rest would be a holding solution. This is another reason why the Bio-Wetter is more pricey, because it is 100% in concentrate.

#17 FlowwolF

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Posted 18 June 2010 - 09:06 AM

Hey there PM folks - I find myself wondering just why this stuff is so damned expensive?!? You have any plans on bringing the price down? I mean that's 72/litre! - Your other products seem rather reasonably priced indeed by comparison.

Cheers for your input.

',;~}~


Hi Flowwolf,

The Bio-Wetter is a product line that we very nearly did not carry mainly down to the expense. It is by far the worst product line in terms of making any profit on, we offer it at as best a price as we can, there is no room for adjustment on price as we too pay a huge premium on it.

The only reason why we carry it in our range is because we believe it is phenomenal stuff, we make next to nothing on this product but as it compliments the Essence and the rest of the beneficial range nicely we decided to run with it.

There are other co.s offering "yukka extract", but unfortunately they do not tell you the concentration values. Some may be as low as only 5% yukka and the rest would be a holding solution. This is another reason why the Bio-Wetter is more pricey, because it is 100% in concentrate.



Cheers for the quick reply bud, appreciated.

Must say, I used the stuff I'd just bought for the first time yesterday when I potted 17 girls into final pots - weather was hot and dry and the compost surface was way too dry to water in by the time they were all done. Used less than 1ml/l and it worked wonderfully, better in fact than any of the other wetters I'd used (chemical or otherwise) and they all took water almost right away...


So, I will have to agree with you that it was worth carrying as a line despite the price. I'll just have to be careful with it/use it sparingly I suppose ',;~}~


Cheers, and be well!
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#18 L'Emmerdeur

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Posted 18 September 2010 - 04:37 PM

Quick question.

I am currently using around .5ml/l at every watering, I find this is plenty enough for it to do the job of a wetting agent.

I am 5 weeks into 12/12 now on 8-9 week strains.

Am I ok to use this up till the final feed or will it affect taste/burn?

If so, when is its use recommended to be stopped?

#19 _2hi2try_

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Posted 18 September 2010 - 04:43 PM

I'd of thought the yucca based wetter wouldn't affect the tase just the soap ones.

-2Hi

#20 oldtimer1

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Posted 19 September 2010 - 11:45 AM

Quick question.

I am currently using around .5ml/l at every watering, I find this is plenty enough for it to do the job of a wetting agent.

I am 5 weeks into 12/12 now on 8-9 week strains.

Am I ok to use this up till the final feed or will it affect taste/burn?

If so, when is its use recommended to be stopped?

It will do no harm only good, it will not effect the taste as a drench at those levels.
Q. how do i make seeds?

A. You take a splinter off my cross, tie a few hairs to one end of it, dip the hairs into the pollen and lightly brush the pistils with it.

#21 L'Emmerdeur

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Posted 19 September 2010 - 01:07 PM

Quick question.

I am currently using around .5ml/l at every watering, I find this is plenty enough for it to do the job of a wetting agent.

I am 5 weeks into 12/12 now on 8-9 week strains.

Am I ok to use this up till the final feed or will it affect taste/burn?

If so, when is its use recommended to be stopped?

It will do no harm only good, it will not effect the taste as a drench at those levels.


Many thanks. :wink:

#22 _budzilla2010_

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Posted 07 October 2010 - 04:03 AM

Is this really necessary when using the essence?? I just brought the essence and sprayed my plants with it this evening, i didn't say anywhere in the instructions that i had to use a 'wetting agent'.

Does this mean it wont work?? i got terrible LSF and was hoping this would do the trick!

Your advice is greatly apreciated!

:pitchfork:

Edited by budzilla2010, 07 October 2010 - 04:03 AM.


#23 oldtimer1

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Posted 07 October 2010 - 08:38 AM

Is this really necessary when using the essence?? I just brought the essence and sprayed my plants with it this evening, i didn't say anywhere in the instructions that i had to use a 'wetting agent'.

Does this mean it wont work?? i got terrible LSF and was hoping this would do the trick!

Your advice is greatly apreciated!

:guitar:

Essence will not cure leaf tissue already infected, it works as a protective coating of microbes on the leaves surface, so coating every sq mm gives the best protection.

So how well it protects depends on how well and evenly the leaf is made wet with the activated inoculant, the reason for adding a wetter/spreader is that some types of canna have waxy leaves, when they are sprayed the mix forms droplets. When you spray, you can tell if your plants are waxy, the spray wets the leaves, if the leaves are waxy, in a few mins, the liquid will form drops and between the drops the surface will be dry, only the area where the drops cover will have a full load of microbes, the dry areas virtually none.

Over time the microbes will spread to all of the leaf surface.

If your plants are a none waxy type, you don't need a wetter.

Thats why useing a wetter is recommended, it overcomes any waxiness, so the leaf remains evenly wet all over, when this dries all of the leaf surface is coated with the microbes giving immediate all over protection.

Hope this helps.
Q. how do i make seeds?

A. You take a splinter off my cross, tie a few hairs to one end of it, dip the hairs into the pollen and lightly brush the pistils with it.

#24 _budzilla2010_

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Posted 07 October 2010 - 03:05 PM

Is this really necessary when using the essence?? I just brought the essence and sprayed my plants with it this evening, i didn't say anywhere in the instructions that i had to use a 'wetting agent'.

Does this mean it wont work?? i got terrible LSF and was hoping this would do the trick!

Your advice is greatly apreciated!

lol

Essence will not cure leaf tissue already infected, it works as a protective coating of microbes on the leaves surface, so coating every sq mm gives the best protection.

So how well it protects depends on how well and evenly the leaf is made wet with the activated inoculant, the reason for adding a wetter/spreader is that some types of canna have waxy leaves, when they are sprayed the mix forms droplets. When you spray, you can tell if your plants are waxy, the spray wets the leaves, if the leaves are waxy, in a few mins, the liquid will form drops and between the drops the surface will be dry, only the area where the drops cover will have a full load of microbes, the dry areas virtually none.

Over time the microbes will spread to all of the leaf surface.

If your plants are a none waxy type, you don't need a wetter.

Thats why useing a wetter is recommended, it overcomes any waxiness, so the leaf remains evenly wet all over, when this dries all of the leaf surface is coated with the microbes giving immediate all over protection.

Hope this helps.



Okay cheers for teh reply.

I had a look this morning and could see the residue left although it was evident that it was residue left from the droplets i.e. a few droplets on each leaf segment. If the bioculture will spread from there then i guess in time it will take the effect. Just wondering whether i should do it again with a wetter to get the whole leaf covered and completely coated, but from what you say it should spread.

Do you think i should have anither go?? do it tonight or tomorrow, or do you think i should just wait and do it again in a week or so??

As before, your input is very much appreciated!! :(

#25 oldtimer1

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Posted 09 October 2010 - 09:58 AM

Okay cheers for teh reply.

I had a look this morning and could see the residue left although it was evident that it was residue left from the droplets i.e. a few droplets on each leaf segment. If the bioculture will spread from there then i guess in time it will take the effect. Just wondering whether i should do it again with a wetter to get the whole leaf covered and completely coated, but from what you say it should spread.

Do you think i should have anither go?? do it tonight or tomorrow, or do you think i should just wait and do it again in a week or so??

As before, your input is very much appreciated!! :unsure:

If you have a spreader that you can use, I would spray them them again, with the yucca you only need 1.5 to 2.5 ml per litre of activated inoculant depending on how waxy the leaves are.
Q. how do i make seeds?

A. You take a splinter off my cross, tie a few hairs to one end of it, dip the hairs into the pollen and lightly brush the pistils with it.

#26 Serpent

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Posted 08 November 2010 - 01:04 PM

My plants are 25 days in flower and when I feed them, the water seems to take quite a while to penetrate the compost, just sits on top before it eventually soaks through, I've been advised to use BioWetter, so my question is, would this help in this situation, and if I get some, do I use it seperately or mix in it with my feed which is currently 3ml Oldtimers Bloom per litre.

Thanks in advance

#27 oldtimer1

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Posted 09 November 2010 - 08:01 AM

My plants are 25 days in flower and when I feed them, the water seems to take quite a while to penetrate the compost, just sits on top before it eventually soaks through, I've been advised to use BioWetter, so my question is, would this help in this situation, and if I get some, do I use it seperately or mix in it with my feed which is currently 3ml Oldtimers Bloom per litre.

Thanks in advance

Mix with your feed, also if the compost surface has set hard break it up a little.
Q. how do i make seeds?

A. You take a splinter off my cross, tie a few hairs to one end of it, dip the hairs into the pollen and lightly brush the pistils with it.

#28 Serpent

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Posted 09 November 2010 - 08:16 AM

Thanks Oldtimer :unsure:

#29 WhoreTeaCulture

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Posted 09 November 2010 - 08:44 AM

The first time I used wetter I was gob smacked, it was like the water just fell through my soil!

#30 Serpent

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Posted 10 November 2010 - 04:59 PM

Know what you mean WhoreTeaCulture, I fed them some earlier and straight away it seemed to soak through the compost quicker, I guess I only need to use this as and when its needed?


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