[jaffaman]

just to say i,m up 10 to 15% on yeild using the bs,the branches are far more robust with big full buds.
and another thing the smell from plants grown with the bs is just devine

[Laramie]

It is very good stuff, although to be fair I've been using all PM products so can't pin down my improved growth on one product. I've used this one the most though.

You have to look at concentrations and dilution rates when comparing with other products, as well as the method of production. Apologies if you have done this already.

Maybe if PM had bigger bottles at half-dilution they would appear better value?? e2a. Only half-joking.

This post has been edited by Laramie: 21 August 2009 - 04:23 PM

[CptSmash]

okay mine arrived this week so far have not used any..

I am going to have to flower one plant.. i take it from reading this I can start using it now on her, I also have 4 seedlings just popped, should I apply to the soil or spray them? (don't like the idea of spraying seedlings)

1 ml to 2 to 2.5 litres of water, will make my little bottle go a long way.

early cropping would be a bonus for me as last yield was cack.


Looking at the comments regarding price compared to other products, do the other products last as long? I mean are they also only 1ml per 2 litres of water?

Wednesday is flowering time for one of my girls.. will start a diary with pics, but remember my grows at this moment are absolute cack, hopefully the changes I have made to the grow environment (old carpet out, new cupboard, better reflector) will get me at least to .5g per watt, last grow was only 4 ounces dry from 6 plants, well poor.

[Hipgnosis]

Laramie, on Aug 21 2009, 05:51 PM, said:

You have to look at concentrations and dilution rates when comparing with other products, as well as the method of production.

The silicon I use in hydro (Budlink) has a full strength dilution rate of 5ml per litre..

[Laramie]

Hipgnosis, on Aug 22 2009, 11:42 AM, said:

Laramie, on Aug 21 2009, 05:51 PM, said:

You have to look at concentrations and dilution rates when comparing with other products, as well as the method of production.

The silicon I use in hydro (Budlink) has a full strength dilution rate of 5ml per litre..

I'm using 5-10ml bio-silicon per 10-12 litres water. Less than recommended but with visible results.

edit: litres.

This post has been edited by Laramie: 22 August 2009 - 10:58 AM

[jeffers]

I've been using min dose as per OT1 - who suggests even less - and still nice response.

Have been musing over missing doses then doing max doses to coincide with supercrop LST trim sessions...
I'm feeding 2moro morning and its been bloody hot today and supposed to get worse so I might just give'em a max dose an see if a corresponding heat resistance is visible.

Like to hear the 10-15% yeild increase, yum.

The wetter is the only bottle to have run out fast and I started using at 1ml/L, half min dose, when at 1/3 bottle mark - it still has an effect but its not as noticeable. I like the way at stronger doses it slows the drench and reduces run off.

Can anyone pse answer me as to why I'm not supposed to use the Boost in flower? have asked before but well, PM's been busy. Thanks in advance ;p

[oldtimer1]

jeffers, on Aug 22 2009, 07:08 PM, said:

I've been using min dose as per OT1 - who suggests even less - and still nice response.

Have been musing over missing doses then doing max doses to coincide with supercrop LST trim sessions...
I'm feeding 2moro morning and its been bloody hot today and supposed to get worse so I might just give'em a max dose an see if a corresponding heat resistance is visible.

Like to hear the 10-15% yeild increase, yum.

The wetter is the only bottle to have run out fast and I started using at 1ml/L, half min dose, when at 1/3 bottle mark - it still has an effect but its not as noticeable. I like the way at stronger doses it slows the drench and reduces run off.

Can anyone pse answer me as to why I'm not supposed to use the Boost in flower? have asked before but well, PM's been busy. Thanks in advance ;p

You can use bs and or boost while flowering, its about doing it right, bs contains humates and boost contains both humates and fulvic, both are cation exchange agents, in other words they make nutrients more plant available, so with judicious use they help, over do it and you can end up with nutrient burn. Its best imho to use bs and more so boost just with water between fertigation.

[jeffers]

Thanks for the clarifications OT1 - I've read elsewhere of people using ewc teas for humates throughout flowering for the positive benefits and I'd noted that both contained Humates as per back of bottle.

So I guess once past 2 wks of flower root growth has slowed and continuing Boost if also giving Bio-silicon will over do it - I observed slight tip burn when I did a 1ml/L Boost only watering @ 2 wk flower - they'd had 1ml/L fishmix and 1ml/L silicon 3 days earlier with no burn..

[oldtimer1]

gunnaknow, on Aug 31 2009, 01:40 PM, said:

Bump. It's been a week since I asked my question, anybody know the answer? Thanks.

Been away, don't know what PM's take on it is. What I do is feed at full strength till I just get run through, and water in the next day or so with bs to run through again then leave for approx four days, then repeat. This seems fine for me with my plants in 6l finals, in fact sometimes its 5 days.

[papaduc]

Think that might have been me. It was OT1's advice to me initially. It's the phosphorous you want to reduce towards the end. K can be bumped up from the mid-late point in flower and P reduced.

For what it's worth, I am using a similar product from the people who make rootgrow. I use it in between feeds. I'm not so sure there's any conclusive evidence to suggest what is better in practice, not yet anyway. From what I understand about the boost, it is just that - to enable the plants to utilise what is in the soil. My use of it now is to enable the plants to uptake what they already have available, as oppose to using other products at the same time.

I think you have to take the principal and maybe experiment with it based on what you understand it's job is. When you first begin to understand the fundamentals of organic growing, I think you can begin to utilise better the many things at your disposal. Even Oldtimer seems to be experimenting, based on the method he is using right now.

If I use an analogy, it's like cooking. Once you understand the principals, the ingredients, the flavours, the amounts... what works with what and how, then you understand the bits of science involved, you don't need to follow a recipe book to cook good food.

[dirtdog]

Been getting scummy blobby bits in the bottom of my watering can and its blocking up the rose.didnt realize what was going on at 1st,just thought "how annoying grrr!"after more annoying blobby bits and abit of head-scratching the (dim)light bulb appeared over my head,doh .Been adding nutes to my watering can and bio-silicon,then abit of hot water and topping right up with cold water as per usual.didnt realize all the annoying blobby bits were congealed blobs of bio-silicone,wasted half the bottle already going to have to cut down on the smoke .will put the cold water in 1st from now on