Yellowing On Autoflowers

[Lubdub 650]

Got a few autoflowers on the go in my new setup and have run into an issue it seems.

Nothing major, looks like the plants are doing well and will recover no problem. 

Just hoping to get some of your opinions to determine the problem and discuss any fixes.

 

Background

80x80x180 (Homebox)

 

Soil: Biocanna Bio Terra Plus

Enhancers: Worm Castings (around 20%)

 

Nutrients:

Guanokalong Organic Dry Amendments: Vegetal Fertiliser (5-4-5) + Complete organics (2-5-3)

Mixed 5 tablespoons of the 5-4-5 and 3 tablespoons of the 2-5-3 into soil before planting. (considerably less than the recommended feed)

Can amend by top-dressing and/or compost teas.

 

Attis 300w (currently set to 180w and 63cm from the plants)

125mm TT strapped to a carbon for exhaust

Strains: 2 x Strawberry Banana (Fast Buds) , 1 x Wedding Cake (Barneys Farm)

 

Day 16 since seed

 

Temps: 25-26 Celcius on average

Humidity: 55% average

 

Watering has been on a good wet/dry cycle of every 5 days.

Started LST and some leaf tucking just yesterday hence their wonkiness. 

 

Generally growth has been good, new growth has exploded since yesterday and their on the right track.

The leaf discolouration has gradually gotten a little worse, take a look: 

 

 

2 x Strawnannas on the left. 1 x WC on the right

 

Strawnnanna #1

 

#2

Yellowing leaves on strawnanna

 

same here

 

WC general colour is a lighter green than the Strawnnanas:


And has a similar yellowing issue. 

 

Thanks for dropping in

LD 

Edited November 28, 2021 by Lubdub

[Herbal Kint 4,766]

Medium seems pretty dry , whats your watering regime?

 

Never tried guanokalong on small plants might be to hot medium. They are far to young to have mg def so id count that out, might just be some ph issue?

 

In short i have no idea

 But id bet on ph looking that leaf in pic no3

Edited November 28, 2021 by Herbal Kint

[Lubdub 650]

Just now, Herbal Kint said:

Medium seems pretty dry , whats your watering regime?

 

Never tried guanokalong on small plants might be to hot medium. They are far to young to have mg def so id count that out, might just be some ph issue?

 

In short i have no idea

 But id bet on ph looking that leaf in pic no3

 

Currently watering every 5 days.

My tap water has a high pH of around 8-8.3, so been using ph down to bring it to around 6.5.
 

[Herbal Kint 4,766]

Thats prolly the problem , no ph down should be added in compost grow.

[5Lip 380]

Just now, Herbal Kint said:

Thats prolly the problem , no ph down should be added in compost grow.

Really? I thoughts the water needed to be a specific ph to avoid lockout

[Brysee 621]

No need to ph up or down in compost as has been said 

Rainwater is good if you have a way of collecting it 

[Lubdub 650]

2 hours ago, Herbal Kint said:

Thats prolly the problem , no ph down should be added in compost grow.

 

heard this many a time mate. A few grows ago my plants got locked out from my soil pH being stupidly high.

pH of water around here is 8.3 on average, sometimes a little higher. I'd be a lore mot comfortable pHing my water to avoid the previous problems again.

tbh they are looking a little better lately since i decided to up the temps to around 28 celsius. After reading some other posts on here I figured perhaps the roots were a little cold.

However, I can try not using it for the next watering see how that goes. Thoughts?

Edited November 29, 2021 by Lubdub

[Autobud 295]

I would keep it simple for now buddy, drop the ph out, ensure watering is on point and keep an eye on new growth, not sure the power but I would move the fan so it isn't full beans blowing directly at the plants aswell. If you wanted to get a firm idea of your specific supply growers ark offer a water analysis for £30 or so, always good to know what you're starting with as area water info vs your tap probably is very different.

 

I struggled with issues for so long with leds and autos, I find them so much more sensitive to photoperiods. IME Both power and light cycle needs adjusting for oversaturation, yes autos can be on for 24/0 but power needs dialling back to accommodate. These High power full spectrum led's beaming down at the intensity they do now plus people still trying to run long lights cycles is just adding to peoples issues and getting misdiagnosed as allsorts when most likely its the plant just shitting itself. Im not too familiar with the specs on the attis but for me 180w is way to much at this stage, whats your light cycle running? 

 

Good luck with the grow bud, maybe set up a diary of your journey and then if you need guidance its already there 

 

ATB 

 

 

[Lubdub 650]

Just now, Autobud said:

I would keep it simple for now buddy, drop the ph out, ensure watering is on point and keep an eye on new growth, not sure the power but I would move the fan so it isn't full beans blowing directly at the plants aswell. If you wanted to get a firm idea of your specific supply growers ark offer a water analysis for £30 or so, always good to know what you're starting with as area water info vs your tap probably is very different.

 

I struggled with issues for so long with leds and autos, I find them so much more sensitive to photoperiods. IME Both power and light cycle needs adjusting for oversaturation, yes autos can be on for 24/0 but power needs dialling back to accommodate. These High power full spectrum led's beaming down at the intensity they do now plus people still trying to run long lights cycles is just adding to peoples issues and getting misdiagnosed as allsorts when most likely its the plant just shitting itself. Im not too familiar with the specs on the attis but for me 180w is way to much at this stage, whats your light cycle running? 

 

Good luck with the grow bud, maybe set up a diary of your journey and then if you need guidance its already there 

 

ATB 

 

 

 

 

Thanks for the input broski. 

Just to be clear, you're suggesting to stop the pH down for now, right?

 

Light cycle is currently 24/0. Was planning on switching to 20/4 on the 1st of December. 

As I'm writing this I'm realising that's probably way overkill and i'm an idiot..

First time with autos indoor you see..

[Autobud 295]

No problem mate just hope it helps, Yes I would drop it out, the soil will/should buffer it.

 

Not an idiot, just learning  its trial and error and finding the balance. Lightwise, To put in perspective I am running 3 scopex 100's in a 120 x 60 space, currently running only 1 fixture dimmed to 60w total 24inch(ish) from tops in veg on a 20/4 cycle. If they start stretching I raise the power, if they are growing to tight or showing signs of stress i lower the power. You can see the effect of upping and lowering the watts on the plant very quickly. Took me a while to get to grasps with the old adage "less is more", you can always raise the power when they need it but you can't reverse the damage if they don't is the way i look at it now. 

 

 

 

[grotbags 4,350]

Looks to me like interveinal chlorosis.... Classic sign sign of mg deficiency. 

[M Pamplemousse 1,413]

Always run my autos on 24/0 using just over 700w in a 120*120. Never had an issue. Plants seem to love it. My seedlings are under a 250 MH as my T5 broke. Raised the light to 1m  above and seeds seem fine. All broke surface yesterday.

[Herbal Kint 4,766]

4 hours ago, 5Lip said:

Really? I thoughts the water needed to be a specific ph to avoid lockout

 Good compo should buffer it out,id avoid messing with ph in compo.

[Autobud 295]

 

1 hour ago, M Pamplemousse said:

Always run my autos on 24/0 using just over 700w in a 120*120. Never had an issue. Plants seem to love it. My seedlings are under a 250 MH as my T5 broke. Raised the light to 1m  above and seeds seem fine. All broke surface yesterday.

 

 Are you running hps and mh or led? OP is running full spectrum led and this is where the differences are. A 250w mh 1m above the canopy is a very different intensity to a full spectrum 2+ umol led at 180 watts 24 inches above the canopy 24/0

 

 In both my opinion and experience light saturation is the cause of many ailments when running leds, yes you can ride the intensity line but you have to find it first with everything else dialled in and even then its strain/pheno/plant dependant

[M Pamplemousse 1,413]

I was more making a point wrt running 24 hours a day which works fine for me. CMH and hps.

Edited November 29, 2021 by M Pamplemousse