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Caly

Heater for lights off

38 posts in this topic
23 minutes ago, badbillybob said:

if its long enough they can use it, or they may be able to joint it, I don't know im not an actual electrician, and I don't know where the socket is in relation to your consumer unit. but I do know the basics of how these things are meant to be done.

It wil also depend on how he has wired it , whether its in a ring main or radial circuit from the socket, to the shed.  it will probably be radial to save cable.

There is a possibility that he has wired it safely, but its really not a good idea having the shed on the same circuit as the house sockets. Its impossible to say because I don't know the layout of the existing sockets, the number of them, their loadings and the rating of the fuse in the consumer unit, but its not a good idea to tag it on. Much safer for it to be on its own circuit. 

 

The shed supply should be on its own separate circuit from the consumer unit. 

Tell your sparky to read the IEE regs…….

 


Thanks @badbillybob I’ll get this looked into ASAP also I’ll ask him exactly what he’s done to be sure. Hopefully it’s not an expensive job?? But it’s vitality important it’s right.

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My grow room is 1.20 x 1.50 x 1.80 and I've got an 800w oil radiator that's probably older then myself, if I would put it in the corner like that it's not enough but a clip on fan behind it just slightly above it fixes this problem and spreads it evenly into the room, best thing about these radiators is that they turn their self off when it reaches the temp of the setting, only problem is the setting doesn't have a temp button but just a normal turn cap, once ye find the sweet spot and get to know the thing yer solid. 

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1 hour ago, CannaKay said:

My grow room is 1.20 x 1.50 x 1.80 and I've got an 800w oil radiator that's probably older then myself, if I would put it in the corner like that it's not enough but a clip on fan behind it just slightly above it fixes this problem and spreads it evenly into the room, best thing about these radiators is that they turn their self off when it reaches the temp of the setting, only problem is the setting doesn't have a temp button but just a normal turn cap, once ye find the sweet spot and get to know the thing yer solid. 


Thanks mate, I’ll defo get one, just need to sort my electrics out first lol

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5 hours ago, badbillybob said:

Dear God no...STOP!!!

 

the armoured cable shouldn't be coming from a socket, it should have a separate breaker on the fuse board. It should come from the consumer unit, and have its own circuit, especially with it going outside.

 

If its from a socket, his is a really dangerous,  bad idea. if you are drawing 11 AMPs, the spike from your ballast on start up, depending on your type of ballast will trip the fuse every time it comes on.

its as dodgy as it gets. Get a electrician ( a proper electrician, NOT the one who fitted this lash up)  to have a look at this and do it properly, unless you are tired of living !!

 

100% mate, bloody dangerous.

 

 

4 hours ago, Caly said:


Thanks @badbillybob I’ll get this looked into ASAP also I’ll ask him exactly what he’s done to be sure. Hopefully it’s not an expensive job?? But it’s vitality important it’s right.

 

Caly, whatever you do, dont let them do any more work, get a different spark in if the first spark has ballsed it up & should have known better.

tho to save you time & money, you can check the cable end where the plug is to see if he actually used armoured cable or he used something else, 

 

for example, this is armoured cable.

 

coloured_cores_2.jpg

 

if its a grey cable thats called twin & earth.

 

3-Core-Copper-Electric-Flexible-Twin-and

or if its the basic 3 core cable.

f6eab212acf120b91f2ca9696dc2a451fbb94eea

 

 

 

 

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59 minutes ago, Joint hogger said:

 

100% mate, bloody dangerous.

 

 

 

Caly, whatever you do, dont let them do any more work, get a different spark in if the first spark has ballsed it up & should have known better.

tho to save you time & money, you can check the cable end where the plug is to see if he actually used armoured cable or he used something else, 

 

for example, this is armoured cable.

 

coloured_cores_2.jpg

 

if its a grey cable thats called twin & earth.

 

3-Core-Copper-Electric-Flexible-Twin-and

or if its the basic 3 core cable.

f6eab212acf120b91f2ca9696dc2a451fbb94eea

 

 

 

 


Thanks @Joint hogger it’s definitely the first one, like I said before I was running a studio off of it for 2 years, running computers, mixing equipment, fridges, ACs and heaters. 
 

One thing that is for sure is that the armoured cable is not running off of the consumer unit, so this needs changing if nothing else. 
 

If I’m going to be running anything up to 1500-2000 watts at a time it needs to be safe.

 

This forum is truly amazing and appreciate all the help I have received, if I didn’t come here and ask questions, god only knows what might of happened.

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@Joint hogger @badbillybob 

 

So I've just spoken with the guy who fitted the cable, he saying I need to upgrade to a 10mm cable if I want more power, I've asked to run this from the consumer unit and how many amps it will allow....See what he says :) 

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you could check that you have a spare way/ circuit available on your consumer unit, maybe that's why he added it to an existing circuit. if you look at your fuse board/consumer unit, you will have circuits for separate things in your house. like one circuit for down stairs socket, one circuit for downstairs light, one separate one for say an electric cooker, another for say, upstairs lights, another might be a separate one for an electric shower, etc.

Depending on your consumer unit, these circuits can be isolated separately, usually with  little switches . there will also be a main on /off switch. If you look at your consumer unit, there will be so many circuits on it, but there will hopefully be a space, where one isn't getting used. This is the one to take your shed supply from.

Hope this is understandable

Edited by badbillybob
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4 hours ago, badbillybob said:

you could check that you have a spare way/ circuit available on your consumer unit, maybe that's why he added it to an existing circuit. if you look at your fuse board/consumer unit, you will have circuits for separate things in your house. like one circuit for down stairs socket, one circuit for downstairs light, one separate one for say an electric cooker, another for say, upstairs lights, another might be a separate one for an electric shower, etc.

Depending on your consumer unit, these circuits can be isolated separately, usually with  little switches . there will also be a main on /off switch. If you look at your consumer unit, there will be so many circuits on it, but there will hopefully be a space, where one isn't getting used. This is the one to take your shed supply from.

Hope this is understandable

 

Thanks @badbillybob I think I might have space :) 

 

large.IMG_0783.JPG

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