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Budmaster66

House and garden ph stabiliser anybody use it ?

24 posts in this topic

Hi guys I'm going back to using my Wilma drip system in my new grow (dinafem critical + 2.0) its in the 2019-2020 dinafem indoor section of this forum.

 

i have just stumbled across house and garden ph stabiliser and wondered how it worked ? 

 

The only down side the the Wilma is having to keep adjusting ph in reservoir which kind of defeats the object of having an automated feeding system ! 

 

 If this product works like it says it dose I would purchase a bottle 

 

 

if any body is using it can you pls tell me how you use it and the good and bad points about it 

 

Im using canna coco nutrients full range and coco pebble mix In my pots 

 

thanks 

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42 minutes ago, Budmaster66 said:

Hi guys I'm going back to using my Wilma drip system in my new grow (dinafem critical + 2.0) its in the 2019-2020 dinafem indoor section of this forum.

 

i have just stumbled across house and garden ph stabiliser and wondered how it worked ? 

 

The only down side the the Wilma is having to keep adjusting ph in reservoir which kind of defeats the object of having an automated feeding system ! 

 

 If this product works like it says it dose I would purchase a bottle 

 

 

if any body is using it can you pls tell me how you use it and the good and bad points about it 

 

Im using canna coco nutrients full range and coco pebble mix In my pots 

 

thanks 

Are you using RO water?

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45 minutes ago, catweazle1 said:

Are you using RO water?

 

No dose this mean I carnt use it ?

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1 hour ago, Budmaster66 said:

 

No dose this mean I carnt use it ?

Yes, I think you can, it's a mixture of acid and alkali components that likely buffer each other. From its msds sheet:

 

Quote

Potassium Bicarbonate* (CAS Number 298-14-6)
Potassium Oxide* (CAS Number: 12136-45-7)
 Ammonium Nitrate* (CAS Number: 6484-52-2)
 Nitric Acid* (CAS Number: 7697-37-2)

 

Try it mate. I might get some next week and have a play as I have a specific interest atm in pH stability. I will warn you that this subject is a bit of a rabbit warren... 

 

This is only a suggestion if the above product is not up to the job when used as directed.  pH down your plain water until it is pH3 or just under, then pH up to your target pH, then add that product again as per its instructions with your nutrients. Bringing the pH right down completely neutralises the bicarbonate ions which are the cause of the solution pH persistently rising (in the the absence of other factors like plant roots, mineral air balls and clay balls). Not even the RO process removes them, I've found and how much bicarbonate your base water contains, even when ROed, determines how difficult it is to stabilise. If you have initially very soft water it's going to be easier to stabilise. Expect this to be a meandering journey of finding out what works for your equipment and situation... patience.

 

Note: When the bicarbonate ions are removed, which are a strong buffer to acid, the pH can swing wildly with additions of acid or alkali, so you might need to weaken them with distilled or deionised water so that the jumps are not so big. If you can get it just over pH5 and then use that stuff it should be ok. Don't try and be accurate to the point. pH5 to 5.5 will be fine as the plants, clay balls and air ball will raise it.

 

 

Edited by catweazle1
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Thanks for your help mate I will look into it abit more 

 

thanks again 

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6 hours ago, Budmaster66 said:

Thanks for your help mate I will look into it abit more 

 

thanks again 

Just found out that it's for RO water or tap water that reads 0.2ec or less

Edited by catweazle1
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6 hours ago, catweazle1 said:

Just found out that it's for RO water or tap water that reads 0.2ec or less

 

My tap water is 0.4 I think I will have to look at  alternatives 

 

thanks for your help buddy

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5 hours ago, Budmaster66 said:

 

My tap water is 0.4 I think I will have to look at  alternatives 

 

thanks for your help buddy

Yeah, that's too high. What nutes are you using and are you using the hardwater version? My water is 0.6 and I ended up getting an RO unit. If you are feeling experimental you could try the procedure I mentioned earlier in a few litres of your tap water/nutes and let it sit without using it and measure ph periodically to see if it stops it rising or even appreciably slows it down. I haven't got around to trying it with my tap water yet to say definitively that it works in hard water.

Edited by catweazle1
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I decided to try it with Ionic Coco nutes, which is a soft water version, in 0.6 tap water. I pHed to just under 3 with nitric acid, then back up to 5.3 with pH Up, and then added nutes to 1.8. The actual nutes is 1EC plus 0.6 for basewater  plus 0.2 for the pH adjusters, which is 1.8. The adjusters are adding a bit of potassium from the pH Up and nitrogen from the pH Down. I'll let you know tomorrow how it goes.

Edited by catweazle1
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@catweazle1 sounds good buddy let me know how you get on ! 

 

I spoke to somebody today at one stop grow shop and they said I should have abit of Ph drift it's good for the plant and overall plant health.

 

set the PH to 5.8 then let it drift to 6.5 (no more) over 48-72 hours then adjust back down to 5.8 for another 48-72 hours or however long it takes to reach 6.5 

 

peace out 

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Yep drift is essential to hydro growing imo

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10 minutes ago, stu sleeper 20vt said:

Yep drift is essential to hydro growing imo

I agree but if the drift happens too quickly to your end point it's not going to be good for the plant because you'll be adding more nutes every time. I look for a drift of 5ish to 6. The air ball and clay balls in his system will contribute to the rise as well.

Edited by catweazle1
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Just now, catweazle1 said:

I agree but if the drift happens too quickly toend point it's not going to be good for the plant because you'll be adding more nutes every time. I look for a drift of 5ish to 6.

If your ec is at the right level ph drift should be slow and manageable. 

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3 minutes ago, stu sleeper 20vt said:

If your ec is at the right level ph drift should be slow and manageable. 

It depends on your nutes and the bicarbonate levels in the water. Even pH perfect doesn't hold it if the bicarbonate ion concentration is high. How hard or soft is your water?

Edited by catweazle1
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My water is perfect out of the tap so I'm lucky...

Ph 7

EC 0.00-0.10

Edited by stu sleeper 20vt
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