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ison

spotty leaves.

28 posts in this topic

hello all.

 

 

i'm growing dinafem critical + 2.0 in plant magic plus, they are 21 days into flower and i have been feeding them 1ml/L biobizz grow and 1ml/L biobizz bloom, the bloom has been increased a smidge every feed reaching 1.8ml/L yesterday, and there is a sprinkling of playgron bat guano on the bottom inch or so of their 15l pots.

 

 

while having a bit of a shufti after lights on this morning i encountered a bit of a problem on one of my plants. plant number 2 to be exact.

 

large.thepox1numbered.jpg

 

plants 1 and 2 have always been a bit weird, they are shorter than the other two girls and a lighter green. 

 

i didn't notice this yesterday during watering and trimming their undergubbins.  

 

large.thepox3.jpg

 

pretty certain it's only happening on that plant so far.

 

large.thepox4.jpg

 

and i don't think what ever it is is affecting all of the leaves. yet:unsure:

 

i plucked one leaf to get a better pic.

 

large.thepox2.jpg

 

the very yellow one was loose.

 

so, do i have to kill them all with fire, then move house and start all over again? hope not, i'm bloody fond of them girls.

 

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that the beginning of cold damage imo.. if temps at pot level are dropping below 20c - light on or off - the plant stops being able to take up nutrients so well..

 

if it is that expect the damage to get a little worse as the  necrosis  in the leaf tissue takes a few days to come out fully..

 

have you got heating at pot level? tubes or a mat?

 

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I'd say you're feeding all the girls the same, and they want different things.  You've already ID'ed two paler girls, they want more nitrogen (grow food) than the other two.  Up grow food on the paler two.  It could be the start of a cal def, but base nutes would be better than calmag with the colour they're showing.

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40 minutes ago, Sancho Panza said:

that the beginning of cold damage imo.. if temps at pot level are dropping below 20c - light on or off - the plant stops being able to take up nutrients so well..

 

if it is that expect the damage to get a little worse as the  necrosis  in the leaf tissue takes a few days to come out fully..

 

have you got heating at pot level? tubes or a mat?

 

 

just checked the min max on the thermo/hygrometer at root level and it came back with a low of 20.5c - that might not mean owt though with the range of error on these things it's more than possible than the temps actually drop below 20, and the probe wasn't on that plant. that plant is in the direct opposite corner to the active intake which draws air indoors. i'll stick the tube heater in there for tonight on a controller. i thought the worry point was way lower, you live and learn though. 

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1 hour ago, FatBoy77 said:

I'd say you're feeding all the girls the same, and they want different things.  You've already ID'ed two paler girls, they want more nitrogen (grow food) than the other two.  Up grow food on the paler two.  It could be the start of a cal def, but base nutes would be better than calmag with the colour they're showing.

 

 

i only fed them yesterday, so i suppose if it is the cold stopping them from taking up nutrients, giving 'em a bit of a warm up might kick start them into taking up what's already in the pots. feeding them separate strength feeds sounds a hassle, obviously it's no probs doing it, but would just giving them two a foliar feed of something work as a boost? or is that no go during flower?

 

again, thanks for the help - really is appreciated. :yep:

Edited by ison
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Sorry dude but if you want optimal results you have to put in optimal effort!  I don't practice what I preach by the way, far from it. 

 

I don't foliar feed unless I have problems, you do but are in flower so again, I wouldn't.

 

Like you said man, it ain't that hard.  Mix your feed up, feed the dark green girls, add 1ml extra grow per litre for what you have left and feed the others.

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30 minutes ago, FatBoy77 said:

Sorry dude but if you want optimal results you have to put in optimal effort!  I don't practice what I preach by the way, far from it. 

 

I don't foliar feed unless I have problems, you do but are in flower so again, I wouldn't.

 

Like you said man, it ain't that hard.  Mix your feed up, feed the dark green girls, add 1ml extra grow per litre for what you have left and feed the others.

 

i was just wondering if a quick foliar feed would just sort of reset them and get them nice and dark green quickly, until it's time to give them their new adjusted levels of feed as scheduled (for want of a better term) on sunday morning. 

 

well,i've re-situated all the measuring devices, set up the temperature inkbird and tube heater, so that should now fire out heat when the temperature by the pots drops to 20c and turn off the heater when it gets to 23.5c.

 

i think that that temperature range is ok.:unsure:

 

as always mate, thanks for your advice. 

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well, i upped the upped the feed to the back two (#1 and #2), i gave them 1.5ml/L biobizz grow and upped the biobizz bloom to all four to 2ml/L.

 

large.spottyleavesfull.jpg

 

that has seemed to have darkened the leaves of #1, don't know about the spotty girl #2 though. unsure whether to up the grow to all of the buggers?

 

large.redstem.jpg

 

you can see the plucked leaf is lighter than the plant it is rested on (#3 or #4). the trouble with being red/green colour blind is i can't tell if that stalk is red or purple or what, i'm pretty fucking certain it ain't green though.

 

from on the "epsom salts" sticky from these here pages...

 

large.5d78c42410f35_caldef.jpg

 

so i'm uncertain if the plants are unfed generally or calcium deficient or something?

 

large.spottyleaves.jpg

 

there's a picture of the little (red?) spots, these are only on plant #2.

 

i've made sure that the air temperature at the roots never drops below 20c, and according to the aircomfort data log it's never has. i've tested the temp inside the root ball with a thermopen and that comes out at 19.5c. 

 

 

so i'm at a loss, do i whack some epsom salts at them? 

 

i've had a read about some jollop called biobizz alg-a-mic. seems like it doesn't do much harm even if it doesn't make ol' #2 buck her fucking ideas up.

 

so, what do you reckon wise ones? cos i'm stumped. also it's their feed day today, so if there is anything i could add to their feed i can get it to day...

 

ta.

Edited by ison
extra stuff.
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Hi @ison first off get Magnesium deficiency out of your head, it most definitely has nothing to do with Magnesium. Giving Magnesium Sulphate (Epsom Salts) guarantee won't help. May even cause problems as significant excess Magnesium can ultimately cause problems with Calcium absorption ironically. Plant needs tiny amounts of Magnesium for Chlorophyll production, soil grower shouldn't be having any issues with this (using tap water). If it were evidence of Magnesium theft appears on lower leaves showing a classic pale pattern in between the leaf veins. As this nutrient is highly mobile the plant has ability to steal from lower leaves. Unlike for example Calcium where deficiency always shows on the upper third portion of plant, leaves in direct light and/or newer growth. So could it be this, well maybe but it wouldn't be my first point of call as the appearance is not the yellow/brown/rust red blotches I'd expect despite appearing in correct portion of plant. But it's early days, difficult to say with any conviction. I'd say previous posters @Sancho Panza is correct about allowing temperatures dropping too low, letting them potentially fall under 20 Celsius is just a big no. Also @FatBoy77 noted you must feed plants on an individual basis if so required. Just giving the same feed into each when quite obviously there is a significant pallor difference not good practice. During flowering several of my plants required significantly less nutrients, one in particular for 3 waters actually gave nothing as significant tip burn was obvious.  Pale plants need more Nitrogen until there is no discernible colour difference between others. Yellow loose leaves falling off at base of plant is simply plant theft of Nitrogen from lower leaves not receiving sufficient direct light.

 

So what to do. Forget this foliar feed idea. Up the grow bearing in mind it's piss weak compared to FishMix so maybe double the volume until results are evident. Being organic it'll take time to work so little patience here. Increase temperatures and don't allow them to fall under 21 degrees Celsius. Monitor the blemishes on the upper leaves after temperatures sorted for evidence of worsening. And don't spray the plants, sure I saw a water droplet on leaf, your lights are very strong. Revisit issues in one week, if worsening then we think again about Calcium.

 

 

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You have to pretty much ignore grow feed guides and bottle labels once you have a rough idea of what a strong and weak feed strength is.  I use fish mix and grow.  I keep using fish mix for the first 3 weeks of flower due to the stretch requiring a fair bit of nitrogen.  I've had plants happy on 1ml per litre and also a few plants needing 5ml per litre or they pale up quickly.  21 days in and you've pretty much finished the stretch, those two girls at the back (plant 1 & 2?) need more food than the other two.  You would have noticed that colour difference before now, its just taken you a while to act.  Trouble is organic feeds don't provide quick solutions.  I have a few bottles of salt nutes (immediately available) knocking around that I use if I have a problem that I want to fix quickly.

Bingo @Poisonata, top advice.

 

Added - forgot but I think you might be using LED?  If you are I think cal/mag is recommended.

Edited by FatBoy77
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thanks @Poisonata.

 

i'll a la carte the little bitches their dinner then. as for the temp thing, i've gone through the log of the aircomfort and there is one instance of it going below 20c and that was for 20 mins (it takes a reading every 20) and i reckon that was when i was moving stuff about in the tent and put the gizmo on the window board to get it out of the way, the readings 20 min either side of the dip are 22c, and it's only affected one plant.  still going to wrap the fabric pot in bubble wrap though, mainly to get the stuff out of my bloody way. 

 

i wasn't going to use the alg-a-mic as a foliar feed, if i use it it will be added with the grow and bloom as directed by biobizz. 

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I've had plants way colder than that for much longer periods dude, not your issue.

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Just now, FatBoy77 said:

I've had plants way colder than that for much longer periods dude, not your issue.

 

 

cheers mate, i didn't think it could be after reading some stuff owderb had written in one of the stickies. the no-no temp was dropping below 15c, but the advice was to keep it above 18c for an easy life. as i said in my previous post my air temps by the roots are comfortably higher than that and deep into the rootballs themselves it's hitting 19.5c. 

 

individual din-dins it is then. :)

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Just a quickie

 

Is your temp probe in the soil or hanging near the pots as the inside of the pots could be a lower temp than your ambient air temps hence a false reading. 

 

Just something to think about when measuring temps.

 

peace

 

lil d.

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14 hours ago, lildaveham said:

Just a quickie

 

Is your temp probe in the soil or hanging near the pots as the inside of the pots could be a lower temp than your ambient air temps hence a false reading. 

 

Just something to think about when measuring temps.

 

peace

 

lil d.

the temp in the rootball is always 19.5c to 20c. and that is tested with a thermapen, a pro chef instant read thermometer which i trust to be precise.

 

that corner of the tent that the ailing plant sits in is right next the the corner of the house, albeit exactly south facing. i did wonder if that corner of the room was a cool spot, but it comes out the 23.5.c (measured just now. it's quarter to five in the morning and i'm pottering around with a thermometer measuring temps all over the gaff!) just like the rest of the room. i've been reading up on this and it seems that 18-20c is fine and dandy.

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