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Farcry1111

Yellow Leaves two thirds of the way up (during flowering)

41 posts in this topic

Posted (edited)

21 hours ago, Poisonata said:

 

Strength ? You mean suitability :unsure: Purple Bag Multipurpose B&Q Verve if we're talking about same one. Apparently it's very good, many people here rated it highly. Supposed to be quite acid so I'd use a little garden lime in the mix. Suitable for your plants once they've past the seedling phase, not before :yes:

 

Sorry I mean it in terms of 'soil nutrient strength' in relation to the above charts. Obviously if the soil has a high nutrient content, then less BioBizz (ml) will be needed.

 

To start with, I have added 2ml of BioBizz Grow and 4ml of BioBizz Bloom to, two separate 2 litre bottles of water (the plant hasn't been watered for a few days). I will see how it goes and then increase the amount if needed

 

 

Edited by Farcry1111
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11 minutes ago, Farcry1111 said:

 

Sorry I mean it in terms of 'soil nutrient strength' in relation to the above charts. Obviously if the soil has a high nutrient content, then less BioBizz (ml) will be needed.

 

To start with, I have added 2ml of BioBizz Grow and 4ml of BioBizz Bloom to, two separate 2 litre bottles of water (the plant hasn't been watered for a few days). I will see how it goes and then increase the amount if needed

 

 

 

Any compost really once your two/three weeks into flowering will need supplementary nutrients. Mine claimed to have enough nutrients for 4 months yet 3 weeks into flower liquid nutrients were needed. Many growers automatically start dosing beginning of flower whether indicated or not, feed and observe for nutrient burn. Starting off (easier to quote dosing ml/L) as you're already doing 1 ml Bloom per litre, increasing to 2 ml mid flower and 3 ml late flower observing for burn as you go (as a rough guide). More than 3 ml per litre Bloom shouldn't be necessary in my experience. Don't use grow so can't comment on this, Fish Mix better :eek: ..... :fish: hehe :v:

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Posted (edited)

2 hours ago, Poisonata said:

 

Any compost really once your two/three weeks into flowering will need supplementary nutrients. Mine claimed to have enough nutrients for 4 months yet 3 weeks into flower liquid nutrients were needed. Many growers automatically start dosing beginning of flower whether indicated or not, feed and observe for nutrient burn. Starting off (easier to quote dosing ml/L) as you're already doing 1 ml Bloom per litre, increasing to 2 ml mid flower and 3 ml late flower observing for burn as you go (as a rough guide). More than 3 ml per litre Bloom shouldn't be necessary in my experience. Don't use grow so can't comment on this, Fish Mix better :eek: ..... :fish: hehe :v:

 

Your obsessed with Fish Mix lol. The BioBizz Grow itself certainly stinks a bit.

 

Yeah its works out at 1 ml per litre for BioBizz Grow and 2ml per litre for BioBizz Bloom at the moment. Hopefully the yellowing leaves will turn back to a nice shade of green.

 

How can you tell the plant has Nutrient Burn? I also take it I am not suppose to add any nutrients in the final week of flowering? If that's so, how do I tell its the final week? lol

 

 

 

 

Edited by Farcry1111
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EC rating is soil nutrient strength. 

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In event of known Nitrogen deficiency might want to double up on dose of grow for first few waters then back to normal dosage. Not obsessed with Fish Mix, just tried and tested :fish: with my own eyes I've seen it work, not anecdotal crap I've read.

Nutrient burn is generally first observed by yellowing leaf tip ends (burnt tips) on newer growth but can manifest itself in other ways.

 

Last 1 or 2 weeks is considered the flush period when only water is given prior to chopping in a vain attempt to purge the plant of excessive nutrients possibility detract from taste end product. Much conjecture on this subject, personally I'll be flushing up to 2 weeks as I see the merit in such a practice. Although to suggest it completely flushes/purges the plant of all undesirable flavour detracting nutrients is ridiculous.

 

How you you tell it's the final week. Good question, about to start flush myself. Two ways really. Classic way was to observe approx 75% to 90% white pistels had browned / retracted (curled up) into the bud. More scientific approach observe the trichromes (shiny stuff that appears on small sugar leaves/buds). Under a x30 magnification jewellers loop (£4 e*ay) these look like little shiny mushrooms. First clear, then milky colour than finally amber. Clear = not enough THC. Milky = maximum amount THC. Amber THC converted to THC(A) or whatever it's called. When you chop the plants down want all trichromes to be milky, not clear and a certain proportion to be amber. What ratio of milky to amber depends on what preferred effect you want to achieve. More milky = head high, giggles etc. More amber = couch lock, oh god i'm so fked, can't move, need bed etc. Trick is knowing when flush then achieve 1/2 weeks later the desired amount of milky/amber ratio.

 

Good luck as always :yep:

 

 

 

 

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Posted (edited)

20 hours ago, Poisonata said:

In event of known Nitrogen deficiency might want to double up on dose of grow for first few waters then back to normal dosage. Not obsessed with Fish Mix, just tried and tested :fish: with my own eyes I've seen it work, not anecdotal crap I've read.

Nutrient burn is generally first observed by yellowing leaf tip ends (burnt tips) on newer growth but can manifest itself in other ways.

 

Last 1 or 2 weeks is considered the flush period when only water is given prior to chopping in a vain attempt to purge the plant of excessive nutrients possibility detract from taste end product. Much conjecture on this subject, personally I'll be flushing up to 2 weeks as I see the merit in such a practice. Although to suggest it completely flushes/purges the plant of all undesirable flavour detracting nutrients is ridiculous.

 

How you you tell it's the final week. Good question, about to start flush myself. Two ways really. Classic way was to observe approx 75% to 90% white pistels had browned / retracted (curled up) into the bud. More scientific approach observe the trichromes (shiny stuff that appears on small sugar leaves/buds). Under a x30 magnification jewellers loop (£4 e*ay) these look like little shiny mushrooms. First clear, then milky colour than finally amber. Clear = not enough THC. Milky = maximum amount THC. Amber THC converted to THC(A) or whatever it's called. When you chop the plants down want all trichromes to be milky, not clear and a certain proportion to be amber. What ratio of milky to amber depends on what preferred effect you want to achieve. More milky = head high, giggles etc. More amber = couch lock, oh god i'm so fked, can't move, need bed etc. Trick is knowing when flush then achieve 1/2 weeks later the desired amount of milky/amber ratio.

 

Good luck as always :yep:

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks for that. That's a good, clear explanation of when to harvest.

 

Suppose I was lucky to get the plant to 9 weeks with no added nutrients. Good quality soil must have helped. Nevertheless I will probably increase my BioBizz Grow to 2ml per Litre for the next feed.

 

Should all buds be harvested at the same time, or should they be harvested in stages / 'separately' (when ready)? 

Edited by Farcry1111
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16 minutes ago, Farcry1111 said:

 

Thanks for that. That's a good, clear explanation of when to harvest.

 

Suppose I was lucky to get the plant to 9 weeks with no added nutrients. Good quality soil must have helped. Nevertheless I will probably increase my BioBizz Grow to 2ml per Litre for the next feed.

 

Should all buds be harvested at the same time, or should they be harvested in stages / 'separately' (when ready)? 

 

I got to 8 weeks before adding liquid nutrients. Looking back now, probably should have started about 7 week point. Main thing, spot it early, do something about it and plant recovers no harm done. Good starting compost helps tremendously, I'd additionally added chicken manure / blood, fish, bone / garden lime to the mix so this certainly prolonged things.

 

Ideally each plant should be cropped on an individual basis, growing the same plant type / strain possibly a week between the first & last plant based on observations. In practice for many growers myself included the grow tent also doubles as drying room so this is a non starter. Judgement call really, I've currently got one plant with far more amber trichromes than all the others. Prefer to let the others mature sufficiently and allow this one a slight over run. At cropping all my bud will be mixed together so it'll probably end up going unnoticed.

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Posted (edited)

15 minutes ago, Poisonata said:

 

I got to 8 weeks before adding liquid nutrients. Looking back now, probably should have started about 7 week point. Main thing, spot it early, do something about it and plant recovers no harm done. Good starting compost helps tremendously, I'd additionally added chicken manure / blood, fish, bone / garden lime to the mix so this certainly prolonged things.

 

Ideally each plant should be cropped on an individual basis, growing the same plant type / strain possibly a week between the first & last plant based on observations. In practice for many growers myself included the grow tent also doubles as drying room so this is a non starter. Judgement call really, I've currently got one plant with far more amber trichromes than all the others. Prefer to let the others mature sufficiently and allow this one a slight over run. At cropping all my bud will be mixed together so it'll probably end up going unnoticed.

 

Well originally I was hoping to grow it fully organically (no nutrients). I thought nutrients were optional lol. I guess you can get away with it, with smaller quick flowering plants.

 

Do buds closer to the light, mature quicker than ones further away? The reason I ask, is that one of the buds seems to fit the description of 'brown pistels curved up'. I would post a picture, but I am away for a night again.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Farcry1111
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1 minute ago, Farcry1111 said:

 

Well originally I was hoping to grow it fully organically (no nutrients). I thought nutrients were optional lol. I guess you can get away with it, with smaller quick flowering plants.

 

Do buds closer to the light, mature quicker than ones further away? The reason I ask, is that one of the buds seems to fit the description of 'brown pistels curved up'. I would post a picture, but I am away for a night again.

 

 

Suspect unless you're using fully organic expensive compost you may already be wrong footed by fact cheaper compost has inorganic feeds added to it to 'boost' its potential. Check if your interested, I wasn't providing it worked.

 

In my limited experience as a grower the buds closer to the light certainly do mature quicker although many others receiving less light not that far behind. Plant puts most efforts into buds receiving most light. White pistels turn brown then curl, retracting into the bud essentially shrivelling up.

 

Be very careful of only going on observations of a few buds, remember you need to crop the lot most likely all at once. Consider a cheap jewellers loupe, these are invaluable once your familiar with observing trichromes making judgement calls on what to do when far easier. Plus I like looking at them :naughty:

 

Post a picture when you can, makes it easier & more interesting for respondent when questions are posed :D

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Posted (edited)

17 hours ago, Poisonata said:

 

Suspect unless you're using fully organic expensive compost you may already be wrong footed by fact cheaper compost has inorganic feeds added to it to 'boost' its potential. Check if your interested, I wasn't providing it worked.

 

In my limited experience as a grower the buds closer to the light certainly do mature quicker although many others receiving less light not that far behind. Plant puts most efforts into buds receiving most light. White pistels turn brown then curl, retracting into the bud essentially shrivelling up.

 

Be very careful of only going on observations of a few buds, remember you need to crop the lot most likely all at once. Consider a cheap jewellers loupe, these are invaluable once your familiar with observing trichromes making judgement calls on what to do when far easier. Plus I like looking at them :naughty:

 

Post a picture when you can, makes it easier & more interesting for respondent when questions are posed :D

 

Here you go. I think I was a bit too optimistic as now I can only see a few brown pistols curled over.

 

Buds-1.jpg

 

Buds-2.jpg

 

 

Just increased my BioBizz Grow to 2ml per litre, as the leaves seem to be getting worse. Is it okay to put two different types of nutrients in the same 2 litre water bottle?

 

Yellow-Leaves-2.jpg

 

Edited by Farcry1111
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Mixing multiple nutrients together in same bottle of water is fine prior to feeding. Using three myself all mixed together. Fish Mix is much more potent when comes to Nitrogen which is why having developed early signs deficiency felt it was the right product. Grow normally given at low dose as preventative rather than remedial so suspect you'll need to increase the dose significantly. Also consider feed is organic, unlike inorganic it takes time to have an effect. 

The buds are still young, no real evidence of fattening up and lower ones only white pistels. Some way off yet. 

Good luck as always :yep:

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