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FarmerPalmersNT

Dynavap induction heater

19 posts in this topic

Posted (edited)

Been really getting on well with my dynavap m, kinda rediscovered vaping bud which is a nice change from smashing rosin every night!! Now that I've modded the airflow a bit I can really feather the airflow hole and get great hits and flavour.

 

I was getting pissed right off with filling my lighter every 5 minutes so built an induction heater. Very highly recommended! Used 3 18650s with a proper BMS to make it rechargeable and portable. Have had to hurridely and crudely cut a hole in the project box for the induction heater as the evilbay seller gave me duff dimensions for the heater module!! Will tidy that up later. Also have a battery level indicator yet to fit.

 

large.20190803_231526-1366x1054.jpglarge.20190803_231547-1366x1309.jpg

 

 

They are easy enough to put together if you can solder. The vape is way nicer, and it heats much quicker, clicks in about 4-5 seconds.

Can just about fit it in a big pocket.

 

 

Edited by FarmerPalmersNT
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@FarmerPalmersNT looks like it does the job , any chance of pics Inside etc maybe a list of parts , there quite a few vaocapers on here ...:oldtoker:

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Nice! I may have to give this a go...

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Definitely an interesting project.  I'd be keen to learn more about how you made it.

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Posted (edited)

 

10 hours ago, Arthur Mix said:

@FarmerPalmersNT looks like it does the job , any chance of pics Inside etc maybe a list of parts , there quite a few vaocapers on here ...:oldtoker:

 

1 hour ago, Amaethon said:

Definitely an interesting project.  I'd be keen to learn more about how you made it.

 

 

I've added a cover for the coils from an old brooch box and a flush fitted neodymium magnet to remove the cap when it's hot.

 

large.20190804_111955.jpg

 

 

Bits used:

 

3s bms - about £3

Cloupur m3 replacement tank glass (for lining the coils) - £5

Aluminium project box - £6

3×18650 battery holder £2

Momentary 12mm switch £3

Induction heater module 5-12v £5

Female 12v socket £1

Rubber grommets for holding glass tube in place and insulating socket

Bit of teflon sheet to insulate the coils

Some heat transfer tape or paste for the induction module to sink to the case

Epoxy (high temp) for sticking things down.

 

Total cost about £25, mostly evilbay.

 

Shitty circuit diagram:

 

large.20190804_110532.jpg

 

Apologies but it was for my reference so not industry standard!!

 

Insides:

 

large.20190804_104311-2304x1728.jpglarge.20190804_103736-2304x1728.jpglarge.20190804_103730-1382x1843.jpg

 

I've used some nuts as spacers for the lid to help reduce heat, I'll remove them if it's cool enough. You could do without the bms and socket if you wanted to just remove the batteries for charging, but DONT try and charge them without it. Use semi decent batteries. I've secured things since these pics so they dont rattle about or short out on the case. Clearance is VERY tight in this case so I'd recommend a bigger one tbf. Mine is 119x94x34 mm.

 

I've got one of these to go in next, inline with the battery, about £2.

 

large.a56f9234dc3273d1d4416c7b6f12941f.jpg

Edited by FarmerPalmersNT
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Love my Pipes' IHs

(and can't wait to get my tip in a Fluxer (think I'm in the next batch) or to see the official DV one (should be any day now)) 

 

Totally changes the Vapcap experience in my opinion

 

A whole new world of stems opens up once you get an induction heater ......

As you don't have to twirl the stem with an IH I've been using glass pipes for stems  :oldtoker:

 

And being able to heat and vape a Vapcap one handed is quite nice  :yep: 

 

 

If you're gonna make your own please take the time to learn how to test the components on the boards as the failure rate is very high.

So much so that some builders automatically desolder and swap some of the components on the boards they receive without even testing them now.

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20 minutes ago, Hippie on hill said:

Love my Pipes' IHs

(and can't wait to get my tip in a Fluxer (think I'm in the next batch) or to see the official DV one (should be any day now)) 

 

Totally changes the Vapcap experience in my opinion

 

A whole new world of stems opens up once you get an induction heater ......

As you don't have to twirl the stem with an IH I've been using glass pipes for stems  :oldtoker:

 

And being able to heat and vape a Vapcap one handed is quite nice  :yep: 

 

 

If you're gonna make your own please take the time to learn how to test the components on the boards as the failure rate is very high.

So much so that some builders automatically desolder and swap some of the components on the boards they receive without even testing them now.

 

To be honest, I'm not that patient. If anything fails on the IH I'll take it out and whack in a new one. It's been heavily tested in the field!

 

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Salutations,

 

17 hours ago, FarmerPalmersNT said:

...kinda rediscovered vaping bud...  ...  ...great hits and flavour.  I was getting pissed right off with filling my lighter every 5 minutes...

 

Moving away from a slow steady ritual helped me with aroma/taste appreciation too.  Unfortunately there's no Inlet Water even in butane mode in addition to the obvious absence of an early energy budget adapted to IH-driving, which clearly wasn't initially planned.  This appears to be linked to a need to keep the clicking feature which is a central focus point in this design since it simplifies operation greatly.

 

It's most pleasant witnessing people sharing the fun in any case!  :realcool:

 

16 hours ago, iShouldCoCo said:

Nice! I may have to give this a go...

 

5 hours ago, Hippie on hill said:

...the failure rate is very high.

 

4 hours ago, FarmerPalmersNT said:

It's been heavily tested in the field!

 

Perhaps there's an alternative which has been available as a 3rd-party ready made item:

 

[ https://www.google.com/search?q=Flameless+Lab+Sterilizer&tbm=isch ]

Google Images:  Flameless Lab Sterilizer

 

Although the speed advantage of Induction Heat imposes itself as a reference i believe DynaVap's VapCap might work nearly the same by adopting more conventional means as illustrated above.  The click function shall be maintained while the spiral heater path is still located on the surface instead of deep inside anyway.  Yet, the faster it is the closer you get to a "Micro-Bursting" experience which i think to be a radical change from the usual ovenizer model where all material including less-than-noble content contributes to "fumet" opacity...  Migration to a pulse-mode strategy shall reveal its own charms eventually, then someday i hope some brave pioneers can manage to include Inlet Water as a "Potentiator" of the "Release/Transport Agent" (which is Hot Dry Air nonetheless).

 

Considering the spiral metal conduit acting as a susceptor could come with an inside and also an outside part once contained i can only wish energy lost to the external environment is someday captured to fully benefit from IH-driven technologies.  As for the clicker component if it could be better adapted then i figure in presence of a continuous magnetic (bias) field that should invite electronic wireless switch solutions relying on back-EMF instead of a mechanical component prone to fail.

 

Best of lucks, plenty of unexplored avenues awaits ahead!

 

Good day, have fun!!  :v:

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Posted (edited)

I love your posts @Egzoset :bong:

 

Was hoping you'd respond! Would love to try one of your prototypes.

 

We actually used to use those ih bench sterilisers where I used to work. Wish I'd taken a couple when they closed down now!!

Edited by FarmerPalmersNT
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Those sterilisers kinda remind me of the Beast, the new 510 box mod heater attachment for the Vapcap from MistVape 

(another option for portable heating that doesn't look too difficult to reproduce yourself if you like a bit of DiY) 

 

 

 

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Posted (edited)

Salutations,

 

13 hours ago, FarmerPalmersNT said:

Was hoping you'd respond!  Would love to try one of your prototypes.

 

Thanks, although i would't pretend that i also like to read myself i certainly apply generous amounts of read-proofing before it is left alone for others to reflect on, in this case quite especially as i aleady suggested a couple ideas much better expressed if simply illustrated in picture.

 

;)

 

My own "Plan-B" progressed a lot after implementing its "PinHole" feature, which in retrospective could be seen as some convergence after i read DynaVap's author on a similar feature of his own.  Something similar actually occured early in my project, in days when i still wasn't aware that VaporGenie's inventor Dan Steinberg already included a perforated disc in his initial design:

 

large.5c3b14bb09b2b_VaporGenieUS7434584(2008-Oct-14)-Egzosetsfig.11-12supplement480x640.PNG

 

Too bad his item #11/#12 went forgotten then never developped considering this is what i based my "Bi-Energy" concept on!  Imagine, US patent 7434584 B2 emerged in his mind just a few years past the Y2K bug!!

 

:med:

 

Yet the decisive breakthrough only occured after i visited a "head shop" during Montréal's Jazz Festival as that's when i got inspired by raw material found in there:

 

large.5d47b69449c64_VGClassicMPUFOElements(2015-Sep-15)400x300.PNGlarge.5d47b73656342_UFOElementbeforeitscutintoa1mmthickdiscwith53holes300x300.PNG

 

And luck was with me as i got a handfull for just 10 bucks!...

 

Many years later i was finally able to decide of an ideal weight (~0.75 g for non-magnetic Stainless Steel) and i once thought of DynaVap's CCD Screen for a substitute, with a twist since i felt it could be made to sign (much like a diapason i figured!):

 

On 3/27/2019 at 0:01 AM, Egzoset said:

Recently i happened to comment various topics which i'd illustrate as follows, essentially:

 

large.5c9ade1742246_DynaVap(VapCap)-CircumferentialCompressionDiffuserScreen1024x1024.GiF

 

Perhaps this can be integrated into some Hybrid Core as well.

 

11 hours ago, Hippie on hill said:

Those sterilisers kinda remind me of the Beast, the new 510 box mod heater attachment for the Vapcap from MistVape...

 

That's good information to share, to me "510" is synonymous of e-Cigs and i rarely pay attention to those, nonetheless if it ever proves being compatible with lab sterilizers then that would result from its open core design i believe.  So, if a DynaVap VapCap is to retain its inherent Bi-Energy functionality as demonstrated so often then i suppose the susceptor can never hide deep inside, or maybe it can with a twist:

 

On 3/30/2019 at 3:49 PM, Egzoset said:

 

Such simple/basic cylindrical structure should suffice to accomodate a split spiral duo of heat exchanging paths, one directing energy inside as labelled but also half of it oriented outside.  At this point i'd find necessary to add an optional IH-driven specific component to contain this precious energy and redirect it towards the input end to complement the Heat Charge already stored after sufficient heat got radiated into each air pocket of the SiC Foam pellet.  IMO a couple hundred Joules at most should support a whole range of satisfying tokes but i can hardly explore the topic beyond this assertion as i've never fully engaged into Induction Heat myself just yet, the main reason being an absence of Inlet Water:  i'd expect it's still too "dry" to me.  Though perhaps in "Micro-Bursting" ritual others would obtain sufficient moisture from their 1st few tokes, from within vegetal substrate itself - i can only wonder but i wish!

 

:smug:

 

In any case i find it would be an elementary consideration to define targets for an energy budget before real progress can be made with portable battery-operated scenarios.

 

That's why i was hoping DynaVap's CCD Screen could be made to fulfill simultaneous functions that include the susceptor itself.  When "excited" in presence of a continuous magnetic bias field such metal disc can be expected to resonate at its natural frequency which in turn should also happen to be conveniently echoed via back-EMF - e.g. a wild assumption based solely on intuition.  Yet if simple physic principles are applied that should guide further developement towards rational energy budgeting compatible with its initial intended portability.  There's always an option to try to integrate Inlet Water in later desk applications i suppose, but it's got to stick to this immuable law of nature 1st:

 

large.5c9a7b12e1ea5_SpecificHeatformula300x200.PNG

 

Then there may be plenty left to waste once rational optimization is performed, but right now i'd recommend frugal approaches in priority.

 

My hope being that your community kicks ass, namely that of Neeraj Bhardwaj who's responsible for the sluggish design of a failed Dry Herb capsule relatively to his Evoke/Lux (which reflects more pizza eating than it does represent real IH potential)!  Some shameful legacy still broken years later, IMHO...

 

As a matter of fact even the Dr. Dabber feels lame when it comes to dry flowers, so i genuinely hope lessons of the past eventually guide progress of the future!

 

After all it's already been done before, just not yet.

 

large.5c92a1ddcff61_Itsbeendonebefore500x640.PNG

 

Good day, have fun!!  :sorry:

Edited by Egzoset
Read-proofing.
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CORRECTION:

 

10 hours ago, Egzoset said:

~0.75 g for non-magnetic Stainless Steel

 

Oups!  This was the calculated estimation for SS304, light non-magnetic stainless steel as that which i use now actually measured around 0.23 g to be exact.

 

:sorry:

 

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Have added a battery indicator. I've wired across the IH module input so it fires only when the switch is pressed, just to give an indication of battery life rather than show any charging progress or anything fancy.

 

Unfortunately it doesn't indicate anything above one bar?! I can't work out why, possibly being dim. I can see that there would be some loss but it's in parallel with the IH so should just read the battery voltage. In the pic the cells are all charged to 4.1v each. Should be 3 bars at least. Solders are all good, no dry joints. I even redid a few in case. Wtf?? Only thing I can think is that maybe they have sent me a 4 or 5s module in error instead of a 3s. Thoughts welcomed!

 

large.20190806_214457.jpg

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My PSMini only shows the true power level under load for some reason, which I think uses the same PWM that you've used.

When not under load it reports the battery level to be higher than it really is tho which is pretty much the opposite of what you're seeing ????

 

 

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Removed the battery indicator and am going to replace with one of these for a more accurate picture of remaining charge:

 

large.20190810_094338.jpg

 

Will be adding a rocker switch for it so I can check battery voltage when not under load. 

 

Painted it up with my best primary school art skills. Also set a quartz crucible from my sai in fire cement at the bottom of the coil so the dynavap can sit at the optimum height without holding it.

 

The voltmeter will go in the empty space left for the screen:

 

large.20190809_223256-851x1134.jpg

 

It's worth saying that you can make a fully functioning heater for the dynavap with just the IH module and any old 12v transformer plug you might have lying about. Obviously not rechargeable but it works. I've seen them hot glued to lolly sticks with a switch. Total cost a fiver!

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