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Auto gorilla

Dwc system for small tent

21 posts in this topic

Morning all thinking of starting a little indoor garden gonna be a in a 1x1x2 budbox pro. 

This will be my first time going hydroponic I’ve been looking at dwc systems but not sure weather to go for a 2 oxy pots which are 19L res each or the oxy pot XL which has a res of 70L and have two plants in that system. I’ll be vegging with 250MH and then flowering with 400hps and using Sensi ph perfect nutes as seen some good reviews on them. 

Any ideas on the system I should use and which will be the most stable and best for a beginner. 

Many thanks 

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Posted (edited)

the bigger res 70litre would be more stable, as there is more nutrient in it, the ph and ec shouldn't move so fast in the larger amount of water. but if one of the plants gets root issues, they will both suffer.. Its up to you if you want to take the risk. 

I probably would.

 

I would definitely insulate them too to try keep the temps down. A sheet of Kingspan with a couple of holes where the net pots are will do the job, or some of the silver bubble wrap type insulation around the buckets and on the lids is another option.

 

The temperatures in the buckets is critical with these systems, you don't want it above 22 degrees of rot will set in.

 

Also don't ever put ANYTHING organic in their, or you will have problems, and don't over feed them, start at 0.6ec and work up to a max of 1.3ec. 

set ph to 5.5 to start and it will steadily rise to 6.5. when it does, ph it back down to 5.5 and let it do the same again.

change your res every 7-10 days, and it should be sweet. 

 

and have a look at my rdwc build guide in my sig, there is dwc relevant information in there too. 

Edited by badbillybob
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2 minutes ago, badbillybob said:

the bigger res 70litre would be more stable, as there is more nutrient in it, the ph and ec shouldn't move so fast in the larger amount of water. but if one of the plants gets root issues, they will both suffer.. Its up to you if you want to take the risk. 

I probably would.

 

I would definitely insulate them too to try keep the temps down. A sheet of Kingspan with a couple of holes where the net pots are will do the job, or some of the silver bubble wrap type insulation around the buckets and on the lids is another option.

 

The temperatures in the buckets is critical with these systems, you don't want it above 22 degrees of rot will set in.

 

Also don't ever put ANYTHING organic in their, or you will have problems, and don't over feed them, start at 0.6ec and work up to a max of 1.3ec. 

set ph to 5.5 to start and it will steadily rise to 6.5. when it does, ph it back down to 5.5 and let it do the same again.

change your res every 7-10 days, and it should be sweet. 

 

and have a look at my rdwc build guide in my sig, there is dwc relevant information in there too. 

Thanks for the quick reply I’m hoping in the larger system temps should stay lower because it’s a large body of water and thanks for the tip I will defiantly insulate the res which ever system I end up with. 

I am worried about the temps as my room sits at 19c without anything turned on and coming into the warmer months it’s probably gonna struggle but soil is not a option where I live. 

Whats the best additives I can use to prevent root rot and keep the system clean? 

I will check your build guide out aswel. 

Cheers bbb

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a chiller is the best additive you can use.

hailea hx100  would do your system. a maxijet 1000l/min pump from the res to the chiller, and allow the water to fall back to the res from the return pipe, will add more dissolved oxygen.

 

if you can stretch to a chiller you will have virtually no chance of root rot. 

 

If not, ive seen people using everything from household bleach to silver bullet and pythoff to try and prevent  rot. 

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i second the chiller mate to be honest any dwc system should have one as standard i have a 150l hailea and  its the best/most usefull piece of equipment i have bought since a decent ph pen and large airpump 

 

i use cheap black buckets with lids and diy my own system with solvent weld fittings and saved a few quid on a pre made system which helped towards me buying the chiller and upgrading the air pump etc

 

a decent ph pen and regular calibration is also recommended 

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57 minutes ago, badbillybob said:

a chiller is the best additive you can use.

hailea hx100  would do your system. a maxijet 1000l/min pump from the res to the chiller, and allow the water to fall back to the res from the return pipe, will add more dissolved oxygen.

 

if you can stretch to a chiller you will have virtually no chance of root rot. 

 

If not, ive seen people using everything from household bleach to silver bullet and pythoff to try and prevent  rot. 

I’ll have a look into a unit then do they run continuously or only come on when temps are getting high?  Probably not the best time of year to start this without a chiller I suppose. Again thanks for the info 

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21 minutes ago, doobie01 said:

i second the chiller mate to be honest any dwc system should have one as standard i have a 150l hailea and  its the best/most usefull piece of equipment i have bought since a decent ph pen and large airpump 

 

i use cheap black buckets with lids and diy my own system with solvent weld fittings and saved a few quid on a pre made system which helped towards me buying the chiller and upgrading the air pump etc

 

a decent ph pen and regular calibration is also recommended 

Do you only use it during the summer months when your intake air is warmer or do you run it all year? I’ll be getting a blue lab ph pen and truncheon to go with my set up, also what size air pump are you running, I’ve got a 30lpm air pump 6 outlet which I’m hoping will be enough for a 70L res. Think as it’s my first go I’ll get a pre made unit as it only £50 which seems reasonable see how I get in with it and then maybe once I get my head around it all I’ll build a diy job. 

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Some sound advice in here as your starting point.. Just to add, I grow in bog standard DWC buckets without any thermal wrapping, just black buckets and I am in a hot country (30c+) and rarely have issues... Now, I don't advise it of course without experience - but it shows what is possible being diligent every day: I run a Hailea ACO-308 air compressor on 2 buckets with 3 x air stones in each. I also use h2o2 (peroxide) in my nutrient profile and keep my air temps no hotter than 30c inside the tent, ideally 25c of course. The only way I get away with this also is that my plants will drink a 16l res space a day easily, which means I am topping up with cool water every day, so the res does not have a chance to exceed say 22c where DO starts to become redundant and problems can arise quickly. 


I have no RDWC experience though, chiller will be vital to avoid a disaster. I am trying to move away from hydro these days after some power cuts wiping grows out... Its just so fun to grow hydro though lol 

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its connected all year round for me as i grow in a spare bedroom so its always hovering around the 18 - 20 degree mark before any hps lights  even get switched on. i set my temp to 20 then so kicks in at 21 and lowering it away from the danger point :)

since getting it ive not had root rot and before that i did when using frozen plastic bottles of water etc 

its a constant cycle of opening up and swapping thawed bottles in summer and i couldnt get any ice lollys in the freezer for water bottles lol 

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1 hour ago, InTheSystem said:

Some sound advice in here as your starting point.. Just to add, I grow in bog standard DWC buckets without any thermal wrapping, just black buckets and I am in a hot country (30c+) and rarely have issues... Now, I don't advise it of course without experience - but it shows what is possible being diligent every day: I run a Hailea ACO-308 air compressor on 2 buckets with 3 x air stones in each. I also use h2o2 (peroxide) in my nutrient profile and keep my air temps no hotter than 30c inside the tent, ideally 25c of course. The only way I get away with this also is that my plants will drink a 16l res space a day easily, which means I am topping up with cool water every day, so the res does not have a chance to exceed say 22c where DO starts to become redundant and problems can arise quickly. 


I have no RDWC experience though, chiller will be vital to avoid a disaster. I am trying to move away from hydro these days after some power cuts wiping grows out... Its just so fun to grow hydro though lol 

Good to know it is possible even in warmer climates and I suppose having smaller system and refilling daily is helping you out quite well. 

I won’t be running a RDWC yet I will just be a using a closed single system to get the hang of it all. 

Fingers crossed for no power cuts. 

 

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1 hour ago, doobie01 said:

its connected all year round for me as i grow in a spare bedroom so its always hovering around the 18 - 20 degree mark before any hps lights  even get switched on. i set my temp to 20 then so kicks in at 21 and lowering it away from the danger point :)

since getting it ive not had root rot and before that i did when using frozen plastic bottles of water etc 

its a constant cycle of opening up and swapping thawed bottles in summer and i couldnt get any ice lollys in the freezer for water bottles lol 

I’ll be doing it in a similar space and I’ve been monitoring the room temps for the last few weeks and it sits around 18.5/19.5 so once the hps is on it’s gonna rise that’s another reason I’m veggin with a 250MH and flowering with a 400 to keep temps down if there ok I’ve got a 600 on hand with a 6inch extraction temps should be ok. 

I am gonna look to invest into a chiller as I’d hate to get half way through and then lose my crop to root rot. 

Appreciate the tips doobie01

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Posted (edited)

2 hours ago, Auto gorilla said:

Good to know it is possible even in warmer climates and I suppose having smaller system and refilling daily is helping you out quite well. 

I won’t be running a RDWC yet I will just be a using a closed single system to get the hang of it all. 

Fingers crossed for no power cuts. 

 

If you are not running RDWC you do not need a chiller in my opinion as it is not a central epi-center recirculating for days at a time... Save yourself 100's, noise and sizeable electricity usage each month. I would look more into creating the maximum amount of DO possible as you are going be topping up your buckets every day in flower allowing for manual control of temps (like myself). Of course, it is nice to have things automated and not to worry... Just my thought if you are starting out on DWC to reduce unnecessary costs. In 9 years of hydro I lost one crop to Pythium and it was because I was not oxygenating my reservoirs enough, not using peroxide to attack any bacterias what could form - it was winter and the water was cold.

Edited by InTheSystem
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Just now, InTheSystem said:

If you are not running RDWC you do not need a chiller in my opinion as it is not a central epi-center recirculating for days at a time... Save yourself 100's, noise and sizeable electricity usage each month. I would look more into creating the maximum amount of DO possible as you are going be topping up your buckets every day in flower allowing for manual control of temps (like myself). Of course, it is nice to have things automated and not to worry... Just my thought if you are starting out on DWC to reduce unnecessary costs. In 9 years of hydro I lost one crop to Pythium and it was because I was oxygenating my reservoirs enough, it was winter and the water was cold.

I’m more or less set on the 70litre system with two plants in the one res. Do you think 30litre per min will be suitable for a 70L res? Yeah the daily topping up will help with temps if I add water on the cooler side of temps should keep it in check. 

Thats good then one in 9 years is pretty good going. 

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Posted (edited)

9 minutes ago, Auto gorilla said:

I’m more or less set on the 70litre system with two plants in the one res. Do you think 30litre per min will be suitable for a 70L res? Yeah the daily topping up will help with temps if I add water on the cooler side of temps should keep it in check. 

Thats good then one in 9 years is pretty good going. 

I am using 45 litres per minute on 2 20l buckets atm and I would like more:

 

large.DSC01831.JPG

DO (dissolved oxygen) really is the key to success with this method... Also I would not run 2 plants in the same res.. Keep it simple, but that is just my opinion and experiences over the years... Every plant is different and it is so easy to over fertilise on DWC.. I get chivers when I see people exceeding 1.2/3 EC haha (plant above is on around 1.0 in week 3/4) - Of course, others could have the complete reverse experience and go against what I am saying! :)

 

Edited by InTheSystem
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6 minutes ago, InTheSystem said:

I am using 45 litres per minute on 2 20l buckets atm and I would like more:

 

large.DSC01831.JPG

DO (dissolved oxygen) really is the key to success with this method... Also I would not run 2 plants in the same res.. Keep it simple, but that is just my opinion and experiences over the years... Every plant is different and it is so easy to over fertilise on DWC.. I get chivers when I see people exceeding 1.2/3 EC haha - Of course, others could have the complete reverse experience and go against what I am saying! :)

 

I do have a 70Lpm air compressor but it’s quite loud might invest in a bigger output air pump then. Thought running 2 plants both the same strain could be different phenos though as ill be going from pip, would cut my veg time down I’ll be scroggin in the tent so height doesn’t become a issue hopefully.  And from the information I’ve been given and what I’ve been reading so far I will be starting low on the feeding and increasing as the girls ask for it. 

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