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Satchitananda

Splinter Z - which 510 mod?

86 posts in this topic

Posted (edited)

Yes - that's the resistance at the bottom. You probably have it showing by default on the main screen too 

 

I'm not seeing the atty error very often in use either. I don't think I saw it in use until I pushed the max power up to 50w. I guess the resistance is changing too much for the software under those conditions 

Edited by Hippie on hill
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10 minutes ago, Hippie on hill said:

Yes - that's the resistance at the bottom. You probably have it showing by default on the main screen too 

 

I'm not seeing the atty error very often in use either. I don't think I saw it in use until I pushed the max power up to 50w. I guess the resistance is changing too much for the software under those conditions 

 

 

Thanks for confirming the resistance. I am not getting any atomizer errors at all now. It probably is a fluctuation thing, it only happens with the stem out, so it's not a problem.  :) 

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Posted (edited)

I should mention, I didn't get the "Z" I got the "Bubbinga V1+" for £75 (£65 after using code) and it's hard to imagine how it could be improved on. I have spent my time learning how to calm it down because it is so powerful. I am so glad I got a mod that was compatible with the evic.bin firmware, I wouldn't really recommend not using it. Use the one @Hippie on hill linked to. It's actually very easy, just use this to flash it http://www.wismec.com/software/wismec-tc-software-for-upgrading-reuleaux-rx2-gen3-dual/ that is if you have the RX3 Dual.

 

With the proviso that you use that firmware I would say this thing is the best value possible, especially for £65 plus the £37 for the mod (plus batteries). I could still be using the Solo (1) and be reasonably happy with it but this way better.

Edited by ananda

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I use my Z on a dual battery Wismec RX Gen3 with the my_evic firmware and absolutely love it. I spent forever tweaking temp control on a DNAc (have used TC for years with eliquid) and have come to the conclusion that the Splinter Z is far better with straight-up wattage mode (38-42W). The trick for me was learning to adapt my inhale velocity and length, and releasing the button at the right time. When the unit is cold I find a few cigar-style puffs helps to get the ball rolling. It's worth mentioning that I use the cooling mouthpiece from Vapefiend - found the stock one way too hot and dry for full extraction. My AVB comes out ebony coloured after 6 good rips with stirs in between, but still uncombusted. 

 

I think it looks far better and feels more stable on the Wismec than any of my DNA mods. Between the Splinter Z and the Vapcap I do believe the search is over. Although I can't help but wonder how the Splinter V1 compares...

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I think the V1 is a racy lil number in comparison, whereas the Z is more effortless and assured like a Rolls or a Bentley (altho it does require more power) :flex:

The V1 gets up to heat lil quicker but the Z kinda carries more momentum when it gets up to heat which makes for a smoother ride overall  :king:

 

 

Bubbinga! :D 

 

 

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Posted (edited)

Sadly havent touched the V2 since I had the Z, just a different beast.

 

I have played around with the DNA250c for the last week now using HerbieVonVapster profile, extended the cutout to 20s and playing around with puff, boost & temps. It does work very well, feels smoother, can take longer hits with zero hot spots. Theres just something amiss with the taste and high.. 

 

Loving it in wattage mode :yep:   ..getting a more even avb ..Not sure how?

 

eta: To answer my own question, just remembered locked resistance .. 

 

Edited by stickyblack
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Posted (edited)

.

Edited by stickyblack

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@stickyblack "hot spots" are something that I have started noticing. Even if I spin the stem around and stuff I still get a hot spot, presumably from the biggest toke - like the second or third one in TCR mode or 1 hit in any other mode unless you have dialled it in, lol.

 

I fancy the Z now given how much I like this but some of the reason I like this is it was quite cheap and I like a bargain. I need to stop checking the hot spots though. :) 

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8 hours ago, Barry Quest said:

I use my Z on a dual battery Wismec RX Gen3 with the my_evic firmware and absolutely love it. I spent forever tweaking temp control on a DNAc (have used TC for years with eliquid) and have come to the conclusion that the Splinter Z is far better with straight-up wattage mode (38-42W). The trick for me was learning to adapt my inhale velocity and length, and releasing the button at the right time. When the unit is cold I find a few cigar-style puffs helps to get the ball rolling. It's worth mentioning that I use the cooling mouthpiece from Vapefiend - found the stock one way too hot and dry for full extraction. My AVB comes out ebony coloured after 6 good rips with stirs in between, but still uncombusted. 

 

I think it looks far better and feels more stable on the Wismec than any of my DNA mods. Between the Splinter Z and the Vapcap I do believe the search is over. Although I can't help but wonder how the Splinter V1 compares...

 

I still do wattage mode now and then and can see the advantage, it's on demand and with a ton of power. If you take the time to learn it then it's great. I use it sometimes myself even after loving TCR mode.

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I meant to say before (to tidy up my sur_myevic settings posts)

I'm running my Z at max 45W and the V1 and 19/19 Waitlister both at 40W max 

And the locked resistances are all within .002 of the cold resistance now

 

Making any colour AVB you like with no hotspots to speak of, doing a quarter turn every 2 puffs and maybe a stir to eek the last out of it.   

 

If you want to see the live graphs of what the mod's doing you can use the device monitor in NTB_myevic v170610-00.07 from the sur_myevic thread or NFE Tools v170611 from the Arctic Fox archive btw

You don't get as much info as DNA users get with EScribe but I find it handy for checking the ramp up, stability and reheat behaviour when I'm tinkering 

 

 

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Posted (edited)

18 hours ago, ananda said:

@stickyblack "hot spots" are something that I have started noticing. Even if I spin the stem around and stuff I still get a hot spot, presumably from the biggest toke - like the second or third one in TCR mode or 1 hit in any other mode unless you have dialled it in, lol.

 

I fancy the Z now given how much I like this but some of the reason I like this is it was quite cheap and I like a bargain. I need to stop checking the hot spots though. :) 

 

This was using the Coolfire 4 TC100 in wattage mode. Genreally, if I draw to slow & also like you say by the 2nd/3rd hit, as the resistance was not locked. From cold it would be 0.40/41 and by the time I preheated (~10-12secs) the Ω's would jump to ~.50 and by the 3rd hit probs 0.6/65.

 

Getting nothing but clean avb from the DNA, even in wattage- just the bowl doesnt last as long as with HVV's profile. As mentioned, getting better taste and hit from watts.  

 

As @Barry Quest mentioned you learn the draw thats required at x wattage, havent looked back now the resistance locked.  

 

@Hippie on hill Is there any differences between setting from both mods? 

 

Dunno what happened to me previous post..

 large.20190424_175843.jpg

 

Edited by stickyblack
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Almost identical apart from 

The max wattage - 45W for the Z and 40W for the V1

And whatever the cold resistance is for each unit 

 

I'd start with the resistance locked at .007Ω's below the cold reading and increase in 0.001Ω increments (higher res for hotter, lower for cooler) until you're happy with the vapour and AVB colour vaping from 180-220 ish degrees C 

 

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On 5/7/2019 at 7:14 PM, Hippie on hill said:

I think the V1 is a racy lil number in comparison, whereas the Z is more effortless and assured like a Rolls or a Bentley (altho it does require more power) :flex:

The V1 gets up to heat lil quicker but the Z kinda carries more momentum when it gets up to heat which makes for a smoother ride overall  :king:

 

Nice analogy. Although I don't have a V1 to compare, I've been thinking the Z is like a heavy, classy beast that needs to coaxed into momentum. Once she's rolling she doesn't want to stop. If my missus tries to talk to me mid-inhale she just gets a royal wave :king:

 

You've totally made me want a V1 now! A fast heating, racy number is kind of what I was expecting from the Z, and I was a little disappointed at first (love it now I've realised how she likes to be treated). I miss the experience of picking up a joint and taking a quick toke in the middle of a task or playing the guitar. The Vapcap is closest I've got with that. With the Z I just feel rude not clearing the basket and then another while she's still warm :naughty:

 

On 5/7/2019 at 7:14 PM, Hippie on hill said:

Bubbinga! :D 

 

 

For some reason that had me wiping a mouthful of tea from my screen lol

 

@stickyblack That lacewood number is a bit nice!

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I am not sure I understand the significance of resistance yet but I think I have it locked.....and that's important?

 

large.IMG_20190510_202050061_HDRab.jpglarge.IMG_20190510_202028361ab.jpg

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Yes it's locked when you see the padlock closed 

 

The software calculates the coil temp by measuring the changing resistance as it heats up so it needs the cold resistance as a starting point and the rate of change of resistance with temp (TCR) to do the calculation.

 

This temp control guide is pretty good altho it was written for eliquid vaping and a different chip   

ecigssa.co.za/guide-to-fine-tuning-temp-control-vaping.t18206/

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