Welcome to UK420

Register now to gain access to all of our features. Once registered and logged in, you will be able to contribute to this site by submitting your own content or replying to existing content. You'll be able to customize your profile, receive reputation points as a reward for submitting content, while also communicating with other members via your own private inbox, plus much more!

This message will be removed once you have signed in.


charliepotatoe

Advice On Upgrade

Hello again everyone,

 

Hoping someone could advise me on some (probably really stupid) questions in relation to upgrading my lights. 

 

I was thinking on upgrading to a 600w 400v Dimlux light (without the dimlux controller) and read somewhere on this forum that someone had blown quite a few bulbs due to not "Wearing them in first" does this simply mean don't use the "soft start" function for a while and just use the lamp on the 600w setting? 

 

Also can I simply use my current plug and grow timer / contactor for this light or because of the 400v do i need something else? - Couldnt find this information anywhere hopefully someone can confirm? 

 

Another thing, on my current digital ballast I can boost up to 660w with the 600w bulb but the Dimlux allows up to 690w - I take it that I use the same philips bulbs it comes with but will degrade the bulb quicker using this setting (I dont have to buy a 700w bulb or anything?)

 

Finally, these are like £350 a light, is it really worth it? Does the extra 0.1 umole make a big difference? 

 

Is there anything else I should know about these lights before I spend? 

 

Thanks again for taking the time in reading this and replying. :george:

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post

400V lights run at 400V internally, if you do not have a 400V ballast, your 400V bulb will not work. This bit is rather important. Make sure your current digital ballast is a 400V ballast.

 

There is no need to 'wear in' a bulb if you use the right ballast at the standard power. Always run a bulb for the first time using standard power in case of any manufacturing defects.

 

Once past that, they use a comparable amount of power and are fed from a normal 240V supply so your contactor should work fine.

 

Using the 10% boost can be done with most bulbs. You gain extra light at the expense of bulb life, this is always the case even if the bulb is rated to 690W.

 

Only you can decide if £350 is worth the extra light. Are your plants suffering from lack of light, do you have no more space for extra cheaper lights? Are you trying to improve your spectrum? (if so look at 315CMH) are you wanting more GPW? (if so look at LED)

 

If you are just chasing 0.1 uMole because of MOAR LIGHT! then I would suggest improvements in your environment may provide better and cheaper results.

 

Often, when wanting more light it is cheaper and more flexible to buy another cheap light then you have more light sources to play with and you can arrange them to get a more even spread.

 

If you are wanting more light on a fixed amount of electricity then I would suggest to do more research until you are very sure that you will gain what you think you will by changing your lights. You should know everything about new kit before you spend money on it or you are as likely to reduce the quality of your system as you are to improve it.

 

Often, you will not see £350 worth of difference even if spread over the lifespan of the ballast. Recovering that outlay and making it worthwhile depends on how well you have your environment sorted.

 

3 hours ago, charliepotatoe said:

Finally, these are like £350 a light, is it really worth it? Does the extra 0.1 umole make a big difference? 

 

Is there anything else I should know about these lights before I spend? 

 

I like to talk about grow systems in terms of making a top fuel drag car. You see people doing 4.5s runs at 300MPH so you ask them how they did it and they say about this new technique they learned last week of using a massive fuel pump of a particular brand and huge fat tyres from a particular company so you get your Skoda and fit the exact same massive tyres and the same huge fuel pump. When you run it the tyres rip off your rear quarter panels, the massive fuel pump blows off the top of your cylinder block after three runs. Your car is now running a 1/4 mile at half the speed it was before it blows up also.

 

What you should have instead is the right level of kit so all the parts work together with nothing out of balance. There is no point chasing extra light until your plants tell you that is what you need. If your ventilation system is already maxed out, the extra heat will lead to stretching and your plants will suffer, if your pots are too small, they will need extra maintenance and so on. Every top fuel drag car and grow system was made by many incremental changes that keep the system balanced with itself.

 

What I am trying to say is, do you really need extra light? A deeper examination of your system may lead you to consider other cheaper and more effective ways to improve your grow.

 

£350 is a lot to spend if you are not sure it will bring benefit.

Edited by MicroDoser
2 people like this

Share this post


Link to post

Thank you Microdoser for such a detailed post 

 

I am currently doing 0.88 / 0.99 GPW so am pretty sure everything else is practically as good as can be.

 

In regards to the 400v and ballast etc it will be part of the whole kit of the dimlux expert series 600w so was just wondering if i could use the same contactor - the plug and grow one I currently use.

 

 

 

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post

Hi @charliepotatoe

 

what light are you currently using, and in what space?

 

I often think about 'upgrading' to cmh, but cant justify the costs as the moment. And i do wonder is my weed really going to be ten times better. One of my 600w hps costs £60, to match that would be around £600 in cmh, more with decent LEd's. I use two 600w hps..

 

I've read a few people saying hps weed is boring?

 

large.5c28b770703e6_premiersweet3c.JPG

 

 

large.5c28b4d68a3c7_premiersweet3b.JPG

 

large.5c28b3eea8bb9_premiersweet1a.JPG

 

Nothing boring going on in my tents lol

 

 

If you are just looking to up your gpw, the best thing to do is lower your wattage. I usually run a 600w in a 1.2m tent. It's hard to get 24+ oz. Running a 250, or a 400w i can get nearer 2 grams per watt easily :yep:

 

Space, plant numbers and air flow have as much affect as light. Too much light and heat can have a negative effect too. I'm pretty sure thats why people see good results (higher gpw) when they swap a hps for a lower wattage LED or CMH.

 

Just my 2p.

 

:yinyang:

 

 

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post

I use a 600w 400v Lumatek setup through a plug and grow timer, no issues even on the SL setting.

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
On 30/12/2018 at 2:01 PM, charliepotatoe said:

Thank you Microdoser for such a detailed post 

 

I am currently doing 0.88 / 0.99 GPW so am pretty sure everything else is practically as good as can be.

 

In regards to the 400v and ballast etc it will be part of the whole kit of the dimlux expert series 600w so was just wondering if i could use the same contactor - the plug and grow one I currently use.

 

 

 

 

Environment, environment, environment followed by stability, stability, stability. The one sure way to stop improvement is to be sure none can be made. IMO you could increase your yield by 10% far cheaper than by buying a new light, possibly for free depending on your setup. The past year I have had a focus on day/night temps and found that stopping temps falling at night and having a 22c minimum (put the house thermostat into the grow room set at 22c) gave me roughly 5-10% extra yield. Adding a nutrient chiller did similarly (this did cost money, about £300). As did stopping day temps from going over 26C (straightened out ducting, moved some items about to give better air flow). Before those changes, I was running closer to 1GPW. I got 1.3GPW last run. All with a cost less than the price of a new light, which would not have given me any benefit because light was not the restricting factor slowing plant growth.

 

Turns out I had enough light but other factors were stopping my plants taking advantage of it. I have a feeling you are in a similar position. Before those changes, I found when I reduced nutrient strength I got increased yield which was made possible by keeping the nutrient PH and EC really stable. It's all connected and it is a constant adjustment regime to find the thing that will allow more growth as a result of the most recent change that allowed more growth. Rinse, repeat. It is rare for the thing needed to be more light. Before reducing nutrient strength I noticed improvements as a result of getting an RO unit (£150). Now I am running at a good GPW (yours is still good, don't think I am dissing that please) I am considering light spectrum by looking at the 315CMH and efficiency by looking at EC fans. A larger fundamental efficiency change of moving to LED has been on the back burner for a year or two waiting for LED tech to settle down and stop changing so rapidly. Even after nearly 30 years, there is still something to improve on every cycle.

 

If you like, I will happily run over your numbers and see if I can spot places where you may find greater benefit with less outlay. PH, EC, day/night temps, nutrient temp, humidity.

 

Of course, if you still want to get your light crack on, although I am not sure you will get the degree of benefit you hope for.

 

On 30/12/2018 at 2:01 PM, charliepotatoe said:

In regards to the 400v and ballast etc it will be part of the whole kit of the dimlux expert series 600w so was just wondering if i could use the same contactor - the plug and grow one I currently use.

 

It may have been lost in the huge post I typed but

 

On 30/12/2018 at 1:15 PM, MicroDoser said:

they use a comparable amount of power and are fed from a normal 240V supply so your contactor should work fine.

 

3 people like this

Share this post


Link to post

Best lights on the market been using them 2 years now with no issues 

Share this post


Link to post

Thanks for the replies.....

 

So i thought fuck it and bought the dimlux lights but now realise the hoods are so much smaller than my previous and they also run slightly cooler.

 

So..... i was thinking do you think i could get away with a 630 cmh in the middle ontop of the 3x 600w in tne dr240w

 

I want the extra flavours the cmh can give without losing yield... will it cope with the heat? Will it be worth the extra leccy? Any ideas for or against this.....

 

Share this post


Link to post

charlie, did you get the Dimlux ballasts ?

 

the reason I ask is that there was a problem with their ballasts blowing lamps & I haven't heard if Dimlux had changed the internal design of the ballast yet.

Share this post


Link to post

Yes i have it, i got the complete unit all in with ballast, shade and lamp...

 

I have only used 1 atm and it didnt blow the lamp

 

I think it was only  blowing lamps that hadnt been properly worn in trying to use the brand new bulbs on differenr wattages or with dim features etc

 

Or is this another unrelated issue? 

Share this post


Link to post

The run in period is normally stated on the instructions.Gavita if I remember correctly is something like 24 hour burn in.Lights on 100% then no dimming for 100 hours.Something like that anyhow.

 

I dont agree HPS weed is boringlol so far im not convinced this full spectrum malarky is all that personally.

Edited by icki
1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now