Welcome to UK420

Register now to gain access to all of our features. Once registered and logged in, you will be able to contribute to this site by submitting your own content or replying to existing content. You'll be able to customize your profile, receive reputation points as a reward for submitting content, while also communicating with other members via your own private inbox, plus much more!

This message will be removed once you have signed in.


skankfish

How am I looking? First time indoor bubbler setup

Posted (edited)

Hi guys. So, I'm new here. I have done some serious lurking and learned a lot, but want to run my plans past you guys to make sure I have things in  order, and to get some input.

 
In the past, I have done guerilla grows but this is my first time in an indoor tent.
 
I have bought the basics - 1.2m x1.2m x2m tent, 5" rvk extractor w/ rhino pro carbon filter, 2x 300watt full spectrum LED lights (one cheap Chinese £45, one less cheap and noticeably better but obviously still not top-of-the-range, and Chinese,  £85), and some seeds. I got fem autos for simplicity first time around (Jack Herer and Delicious Candy).
 
I had planned on 4 bubblers with an LST plant in each. I realise now I shouldn't LST autos, so I'm going to prune them and tie the branches out a bit to expose the buds more to the light, but nothing more than that. I haven't got the pots yet but I'm going for the set-up ones on eBay for ~£20 a pop. I'm thinking an 8-outlet pump and block off the ones I don't need. Will that burn the motor out? I was thinking room for expansion.
 
 
Do I need to monitor humidity and temp?
 
Numbers: if I stick to plan, is there room for another plant or two without hogging the light? Ideally I want quite a bit more than I can smoke myself. I'm actually moving into a new place and not 100% sure this will fit in the attic. If not I will have to build something custom (will do a diary either way).
 
Lights: Do I need another light for bloom? Or will it just take longer to get the same result like this?
 
Any help would be great. I'm really glad I found this forum. There are some inspiring grows and some really knowledgeable people.
 
Sorry about the weird colours. Can't seem to undo that.
Edited by skankfish
1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post

If you worry about burning out your motor, just connect all 8 to 4 x 'T' pieces and let them all flow into your pots anyway. Then you will not be blocking any outlets.

 

To be honest, as long as you have enough root space for each plant the number of plants is meaningless. You will still get the same yield per square foot, or per watt whichever is the limiting factor.

 

Sometimes, adding an extra plant means you get less yield because they are cramped. I have yet to see much loss from a missing plant, because the others take up the space but I have seen much loss from having too many when they are fighting for the little space there is...

 

15 hours ago, skankfish said:

Do I need to monitor humidity and temp?

 

yes. You need to monitor TDS, PH, water temp, air temp, RH% at a minimum.

 

PH 5.5-5.8

water temp 21-23c

air temp day 25-27c, night 22-23c

RH% cuttings 70%, first week of flower 70% dropping 5% a week until you are keeping it 50-55% until the end

TDS cuttings 100PPM over your water base level, rising to 400PPM over at start of flower, then 600PPM over base level by the end of flower

 

These are the ideals you should aim for, do what you can and don't worry too much about what you cannot change. Myself, I am working on RH% this cycle. Last time it was air temperature. I find focusing on one area to 'fix', like RH% or water temp for example, means that area gets a better fix than trying to do them all at once.

 

The amount of light for flowering will affect yield, not the time it takes to finish. Only up to a point though, the plant can only process so much and this can be limited by other factors like root space, temperatures, RH%, nutrient availability etc etc.

 

Best thing would be to start a diary, upload some pictures and then we can get a better idea of your setup.

2 people like this

Share this post


Link to post

Thanks a lot for that reply. I'm going to spend some time looking into everything you said that I don't understand. Cheers!

Share this post


Link to post

Posted (edited)

Water temps (IMO) 19 -20 degrees.....at 22 you start losing precious DO...the life blood of your system and increase the risk of pythium.

PH range and E.C are crucial and amplified.  

DWC is a cruel but rewarding mistress...I prefer RDWC as it helps eliminate the buffering problems with stand alones but each to there own.

 

Good luck bro

 

:yep:

 

 

 

 

Edited by zen-ken
1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
6 hours ago, zen-ken said:

Water temps (IMO) 19 -20 degrees.....at 22 you start losing precious DO...the life blood of your system and increase the risk of pythium.

PH range and E.C are crucial and amplified.  

DWC is a cruel but rewarding mistress...I prefer RDWC as it helps eliminate the buffering problems with stand alones but each to there own.

 

Good luck bro

 

:yep:

 

 

 

 

 

I would also prefer adding an 'R' to the DWC. As you say, 19-20 reduces the chances of pythium and increases the DO. Roots operate best between 22-24c so there is some 'art' to which temperature you choose.

 

I have run as low as 19c with no ill effects, also up to 23c. Your plant will probably let you know which it prefers when you weight the yield ;)

2 people like this

Share this post


Link to post

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now