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badbillybob

RDWC Build guide

52 posts in this topic

That's my theory too Zen-Ken, more disruption of the surface around the net pot = more DO.

Also noticed before that when the roots fill the totes, they act as a barrier to the surface disruption as they often sit on the surface, which would, in theory prevent the disruption of the entire surface area, but maybe they get enough from a single outlet, as it would penetrate deeper into the water. or maybe the bigger splash from a single outlet would promote waves in the tote, which would also provide DO. 

I have run both single pipe feeds into the totes, and spray bars into totes before, and to be perfectly honest both ways work, so I could be talking bollox.

If I had a proper dissolved oxygen meter I would be able to tell you for sure, but I don't, and they are very expensive, for a proper one.

So I guess I will just have to run the square spray bars and see if there is any difference. I'm not expecting to double my yield compared to single outlet spraybar to be honest lol. 

I agree with Potatoe1356 that straight runs are more efficient, and lose less pressure from the pump, but I couldn't really use them with these totes.

I did use them when I ran really useful boxes, and they worked well, but I think these totes would work better as they are deeper.

Time will tell.

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oh, and ive decided to just run the spray bars this time, air pump will be used elsewhere.

Might be a bit slower on the uptake, but I remember the trees that G-Unit used to grow with the simple system in the video on the last page, they were feckin huge with colas the size of yer head.

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7 hours ago, zen-ken said:

Although the straight runs are more efficient I thought the reason for the 'squares' was to offer a more even distribution of disruption to the water.

Allowing it to disrupt more of the surface to take more DO without damaging the roots ? (i.e too much pressure from spray bars)

 

My thirst for your knowledge on these systems @badbillybob and @potato1356 is insatiable....Ive never had anyone to talk to about them before as everyone I know loves the coco so please excuse my childish enthusiasm ......man just wants to perfect it.

 

Cheers guys 


square is more even distribution, and increased power with floom means more D.O. , both work incredibly well. 

I've never heard of roots dying off due to surface interruption mind.... Never had an issue with it.

for ideal D.O. I'd do flooms, air pump and chiller at 19ºC - add some CO2 just to scare yourself ;) They drink CRAZY fast with CO2, I have a 5'5" cheese plant less than 5 weeks old that just drank a bucket dry in less than 24 hours.... came back and it'd started wilting - ran to get a bucket of water! Hopefully no damage has been done, we'll see in a few hours....
 

7 hours ago, badbillybob said:

oh, and ive decided to just run the spray bars this time, air pump will be used elsewhere.

Might be a bit slower on the uptake, but I remember the trees that G-Unit used to grow with the simple system in the video on the last page, they were feckin huge with colas the size of yer head.


Glad to hear it - flooming gives better DO than most air pumps and It'll be so satisfying for you to know you built the system that produces results! 

do you find the noise better or worse with this? I guess it's a trade-off between no air pump but waterfall noise, or no waterfall but airpump noise? 

creating a silent floom system would be insanely difficult methinks....

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Yeah, its noisier with the spray bars compared to the air pump, but my airpump is super silent. 

Its a diaphragm one, 60l/min hailea.

 

As for flooms,  I'm gonna make me some floom returns for the reservious today, like those used in my man G-Units vid.

I am making them removable/ adjustable for levels

.They will be pretty simple to make, just a 90 bend and a couple of pieces of pipe, one which reaches to just below the normal surface level of the res, and a short one to go into the tank connector at the bottom of the res. Where the 40mm pipe meets the tank connector it obviously wont slot in,because they are both the same diameter, so I am gonna slot a length of tube lengthways, untill it fits inside the 40mm connector,  then once I'm happy that it will both stay in place and rotate when needed I will solvent weld the rest  it together, but I wont be welding the pipe at the tank connector, it will just slot into place, to allow it to turn. Will make life easier for dismantling, or if it doesn't work. 

IM sure it will work tho, or I wouldn't be doing it.

The floom, will add dissolved oxygen to the res thru surface exchange. I read up on some dude using a maxijet 1000 pump to floom and he got an additional 20% DO compared to his airstone. I don't want to use a pump tho as it will just add heat into the water, so I will just be relying on the pressure of gravity returns, but hey, it all helps.

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2 hours ago, badbillybob said:

I don't want to use a pump tho as it will just add heat into the water,

People just don't seem to realize how much a res heats up with a pump that might run at just 7-10 watts.

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Is it best to keep the chiller at 18 degrees Celsius or 19 ?

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1 degree doesn't make much difference to be honest.

I used to set mine to 18 at the chiller, because for some reason the res measured 19 when the chiller said 18..

No idea why, but as long as the temps are under 22 they will be sweet. 

 

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well I have been busy. I am upgrading the 4 pot system, and adding a few additions along the way.

Its using the same white buckets, but there will now be 8 of them, in a big room, 4.8 metres by 2.4metres. by 2.4 metres high.

I'm gonna have to re-do the spray bars, and the returns. 

SO I'm keeping it simple this time. Because it all has to be made up again, The spray bars will be based on the design ive already used, but will include the removal of the square sprayer frames, and replacing it with a simple elbow fitting into the box, which will go into a tee to disperse the nutes around. 

The returns I'm still working on, but because of the size of the room , obviously they will have to be spaced out. I'm thinking about putting the returns in the centre between the two rows of 4 pots under a raised platform, to prevent me walking on the pipes  (or more likely stubling into them when stoned off ma nut and cracking one, resulting in a mini tsunami lol.)

I will post some pics once its together, might be a while. 

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all the best with the redesign mate my build should be started this month just looking at boxes as im tight dont wanna spend £15 each on rubs so there are some black 40l ones that look perfect in argos @£11 each  same as garage storage boxes i did first time round.

for feeding its gonna be dripper rings this time but am considering spraybars as a future upgrade 

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cool, remember to post some pics and spread the rdwc love.

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will do but its just a clone of culture counter system with an extra bucket instead of an external pump to chiller i can use the  pump i have for the price of the bucket and a couple of overflow tank connectors than going for a new decent pump lol 

large.5b16cef6af1ff_doobiesversion.jpg

 

the water pump in the bottom bucket will be attached to dripper rings and again a clone layout of the air lines or similar setup for watering tops 

i cant see any problems with it if you can mate let me know as i am getting buckets sorted in next few weeks just need to find cheap net pots lol as the full system will cost me less than £300 including 2nd hand chiller and reusing older pumps etc ;) all plastic brand new and everything works out roughly at 15% of the premade rrp system its based on 

 

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Posted (edited)

the only issues I can see with the pictured system, if you are doing  a 12 pot system is  if your feed lines for the drippers will have to be balanced- by which I mean it should come from your water pump to a manifold, and from there each line should be the same length, so that all the drippers deliver the same amount.to the plants 

the other thing which makes no sense to me is why have 2 reserviores. I don't see why, it just seems to be complicating things for no benefit t would just use 1 and add a maxijet 1000 to go from res to chiller with a return to the same res.

 

oh and I would use 40mm returns/ tank connectors etc, they are far cheaper than 50mm stuff, but you probably know that.

Edited by badbillybob
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Only reason for second bucket is that I'm a clumsy oaf and can see me kicking an external pump causing it to flood where the extra bucket will flex and support the movement a bit more  lol

The System for dripper rings will be sorted with a manifold just need to get my ass in gear and order some bits 

 

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2 hours ago, doobie01 said:

Only reason for second bucket is that I'm a clumsy oaf and can see me kicking an external pump causing it to flood where the extra bucket will flex and support the movement a bit more  lol

its also turning into a 9 system for now (untill i change my mind again lol) 

 

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hello, im back again. Ive got my system built up and ready to rock. 

im not just here to whore out pics of my latest build, honestly, .............................oh ok I am,

but im also wanting to talk about flooming.

heres the latest incarnation of the system, showing the spray bars too. I think I could have gone up a couple of thousand litres per minute on the pump size, but its disturbing the surface and creating dissolved oxygen (DO) so it will be fine. 

large_gr2.jpglarge_GR10.jpg

now if you look at the pic above you will see the sprayers are aiming pretty much straight down. This is just something im experimenting with.

My reasons are to get better surface agitation when the roots begin to fill the totes.

I have previously had them hitting the side of the net potat the base, and angled in towards the immediate surrounds of the water around the net pot base. Both ways work, but its always good to try something new

Will probably make zero % difference, but we gotta try these things eh? As in there will be more water, less root at the edges.

Im also not using any airpump or stones this time, just to see the difference, if any.

Ive also done the return flooms. You cant see much in the pic, but you can see the surface is bulging by the edge of the pot, if you turn your computer sideways, and if you look you can see the small waves being created by the action of the floomslarge_GR12.jpglarge_GR11.jpgI made these so they are removable and adjustable. I will probably cut one of them down a little, so I can point it at the other side of the res to get an even distribution of DO. 

 

These create more Dissolved oxygen than a 1000l/min maxijet pump and best of all, its free!!

 

They work on the same basis as a pipe water level, in that water always finds a level, and the returning water from the totes which are filled by the sprayers has to return to the res, so its forced up the return pipe, causing the floom.

 

you might as well take advantage eh?

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