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Ramjam

Nft questions

Hey all. 

I'm a noob  with  NFT,  and I have a some questions for you.  

Firstly I'll give you a rough idea of my set up.  

I've a fairly large space.   3.5m long x 2.5 wide x2.5 high.  

Equipment:

Ventilation: 8 inch RAM fan and filter. 

Silencer 

Acoustic duct

 

Lighting: 

Maxibright 600w digital ballast. 

600w hps 

1m2 parabolic shade.

 

Hydro system :

Gt901 ( 204cm x 48.5cm x 20cm). 

I plan on buying another and utilising my space. Another light etc.

 

Nutrients etc I'm using and intend to use :

Canna aqua vega / flores 

Cannazme 

Rhizotonic 

Liquid silicone 

Pk13/14

Calmag. 

 

Tap water: ph 7.2  EC: 0.3 

 

 

Plants :

8 chronic,  from femeleseeds 

 

 

I veggie for 4 weeks under 600w MH ,  and flipped them 5 days ago( now under hps).

 

I had issues with ph during veg.   

I set it to 5.8 and with a day,  it was down to 5.2. I was continuously adjusting it.

Upon advice From someone,  I slowly raised the pH to 6.0.  They seem to like it .  it's stabilised, and slowly drifts up,  not down??  

 

I'm currently running at 6.0 ph and 1.1 ec.  

Does that seem about right?? 

 

I read other peoples diaries amd they are running 1.6 1.8 plus. ..   

I have tried increasing the ec bit they didn't like it. 

I was told that was because my ph was to low,  and they wasn't firing in all cylinders.  

My questions are:

 

Is 6.0 right for nft at this stage?  (almost a week in to 1212)

  

What ec should I be looking to acheive with a tap water background of 0.3? 

 

And finally,  what ph should cuttings be introduced into the system at?  

 

Thanks in advance for answering my noob questions.  

RJ 

 

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hi @Ramjam

 

i have some nft experience ... there are differing views and techniques in various diarys on here 

 

a tip i would suggest ...is to slowly increase your EC as your plants use it ..eg after 24hrs your PH should be increasing ...whilst your EC should be going down

 

pre mix in a bucket your next batch of new water and feed and it should give a true reading within 30 mins of circulating

 

also remember that overfeeding causes more problems than under feeding

 

happy reading in the 420 archives and good luck

 

love

 

Arthur

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Thanks Arthur. 

Yeah,  any changes are always gradual ones.  

I grew for several years in coco. With mostly good results.  Handwatering the pots.   so I understand how ph and ec work.  

I'm just a total noob with NFT and dwc. 

I love the simplicity of it.  I should of switched years ago.  

I'm very eager to learn what ph is best for the different stages of a plants life.  

I've always done 5.5 to start clones/seedlings off, and then raised and kept it at 5.8 throughout the grow.  

 

:-) 

 

 

Edited by Ramjam

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Canna Aqua Vega has  20% of total N in ammonium form (80% nitrate). Its a method of ph control used in nutes for recirculating systems. Ammonium (NH4+) uptake causes PH to drop and nitrate (NO3-) uptake causes PH to rise.  For a comparison, Canna Hydro Vega is the equivalent of Aqua but formulated for run to waste systems where PH stability is less of an issue. The ammonium in the hydro vega accounts for less than 7% of the total N.

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You don't really need calmag with an EC of 0.3, Canna Aqua will drop till pH buffers kick in but will drop again when you want to change to bloom nutrient but keep an eye on falling pH as a sign of pythium, at this time of year perhaps run it with hydrogen peroxide to keep it at bay...

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Hey fax23.  Thanks mate.  

How do I apply the peroxide?   I do have some.  liquid oxygen?  

Do I add it to the reservoir daily or just when I top up?  

I'm unsure how to use it correctly. 

Thanks mate.  

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Liquid oxygen yeah. Just add it to your reservoir every 3 days if I remember right. You can soon check out product data sheet. I think it makes it pointless using zyme as it just kills it dead

Edited by Fax23
killing zyme

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Thanks mate.  That's was the reason I was unsure about using it.  I heard it kills off the good enzymes.

Makes perfect sense what your saying about Cannazme. 

Thanks for your information 

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@Ramjam

 

Hi bud,

 

Liquid oxygen (oxyplus) will dissipate in a matter of hours, kill off everything good and bad and not prevent root rot. Better to treat what causes it in the first place

Reservoir temperature, light leaks (onto roots) and lack of dissolved oxygen are the main culprits.

This time of year temperature is the killer, keep it between 18 - 20c and the chances of pythium are greatly reduced.

Keeping nutrients moving and a low EC will increase the DO in the solution, NFT is an ideal system for this....

Make sure cuttings and seedlings have a good root structure before going into nft otherwise they are apt to drown....

 

If you want to forego the headache of having to ph, try using sensi ph perfect nutes, (A+B grow and bloom are all that's needed, none of their other snake oil!!)

no need to ph at all, just remember to keep ec very low and see how the plants react. 1.0 is probably high enough with a .3 background. Change res once a week.

 

Good luck bud  :yep:

atb

stu:oldtoker:

 

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Nice one stu.  Thanks mate.  

Water temp is around 22c. Not alot I can do about lowering it??    the systems covered with  black correx,   but  I then covered it in white plastic sheet to reflect heat.  I also cut some to put at the Base of stems.  

The roots look healthy,  but I noticed a slight odour last night.  

Upon inspection I noticed some light is   still getting in.   Ill be fucked if I could find where it was coming in.  

Too stoned amd tired at the time lol

My mission tonight is to sort it out. .  

 

You've answered my next question already.  Lol.  weekly  water changes.  

 

What do you mean ph doesn't matter mate ?  Do you not bother with it at all?  

I've got an auto in a bubbler,  which I've neglected,  but it's thriving. lol 

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I should add,  that I've got an oxy pump feeding them   as well as an air stone bubbling away as well  

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