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JAPE

No thc again!!!!

56 posts in this topic

@Phoenix

fook man that av you have there gives me the shits  jumping out at me lol

Edited by r3d
fooked up eyoard
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@r3d aye it's still freaking me right out and I see it all the time!   

:haveadab:

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1 hour ago, JAPE said:

Yea always used these nutes and coco bud. @ComfortablyDumb

 

Been flicking through your diary and you say you used soil last grow ?

 

It also says you had you had some problems re-circulating stale air ?

 

You also claim not to use a PH pen ?

 

You've had good grows in that enviroment and it hasn't changed, you sure ?

 

How convinced are you that it's dialed in

 

This is your 2nd grow with Auto's, right ?

 

My thoughts are that you managed to get away with growing regs in a far from perfect enviroment without a PH pen, which you can, but it's a different ball game with Auto's.

 

My tap water PH has dropped 6 points this week, and if I hadn't been checking it my crop of Auto's would be toast !!

 

 

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This is my second grow with autos, I've only grew in soil once and that was my first attempt at autos, my temps are always in between 30 and 23 normally apart from the odd occasion, very rare. I've grown regs many of times and it only seem the last few grows be it regs or autos that my plants are not frosting up, I've never checked my ph on all my grows but I did buy one of those little ph test kits just to see what I'm dealing with and it was between 6-7 so not tha bad really, plants have looked healthy enough all the way through veg apart from this happened on one of them

large.IMG_20170305_51547.jpg

 

 

But as a rule I've never ph'd with regs and seemed to get away with it. @ComfortablyDumb

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Looks like it's genetics to me 

 

But temps touching 30 will reduce your thc ime 

 

I found with my favourite cuts if I keep the Temps 26 or below in canopy. It's massively improved thc on the plants

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@JAPE

 

Strange this, had some that don't frost up so much in the past but have been knockout stone, think it's all down to gland sizes etc but this devoid of glands business is odd...I'd suspect genes but after reading through your comments I dunno...I'll be honest though, there are some comments here saying that Dinafem, Dutch Passion some peeps have had no luck with, I've not had issues with Dinafem tbh and found their strains of decent smoke and of old I'd only ever run Dutch Passion and found them good at that time too.

 

BUT, and some might shoot me down in flames for saying this however I don't give a fuck because it's my observations over the last couple of years since starting back up again and this is the thing, the autos I've run have been powerfull enough, so have the feminised beans but the smoke from everything APART from the Bangi Haze x Psycho test run on Madgiz' cooking has not had the 'depth' and multiple layers and journey through the highs of old...whether that's me looking through rose tinted specs at yesteryear I don't know tbh, but the observations are accurate and I've been using various forms of Cannabis since I was 13 years old and smoked a fair bit like ;) those beans of course were regulars and therefore no buggering about with chems or Ruderalis etc cam into it and when you consider the genetics used too, there's no buggering about with those genes either.

 

Like I said above, I've had tasty, really tasty, excellent quality smoke but the highs are not like old in my opinion :yep:

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Jape mate; heya dudes; Im going to chime in, as it is your 1st "Dutch Passion" Auto grow, the mazer and ultimate, as you say below in your 1st page text.

 

JAPE'sey

I've got some auto mazar and ultimate from Dutch passion at 54 days from seed, I've got a diary running called an auto coco diary in the Dutch passion section.

 

Automaster;

 

Firstly, you is at day 57, of an auto that loves, in fact needs, 1.5 times light. Your lamp needs to be "Duel Spectrum", and changed every 2 grow or 3000hrs. These auto's, especially the mazar, will want to go for at least 80 to 90 days. To hit full load.

 

You are only three weeks into flower, after sexing at 30 days ? if later, then light is a bit light ;).... however, i can see, the effects of low nitrogen in the flower heads. Mazar can take Ec's of upto 1.5 !!........ combined with this, is the 5mm tip burn, which tells me, she is already being hit hard with nutes, at what Ec are you feeding at the Mo japes mate ??.....  If you aint got a Ph & Ec pen and the calibration solutions (Important), you are growing dead blind bruv ;)..

 

looks like you have dropped the nitrogen a bit early, and hit it hard with flower phased NPK. Just to check the def isant a high soil Ph Phos lock out Japes. Do a run off test run off 500ml, take Ph. Should be in the flower range 6.2 to 6.8 run of. Then take Ec of run off Jape. If the Ec is greater than 2.5, and Ph is above 7 or below 6.2. You have a Ph & nute imbalance locking out phos iron and maganeese as chart below;

gallery_80973_7265_990.gif

Use a bottled water to flush, flush water Ph'ed to "6", bottled water for flush if alkaline run off ok, as tap water will fill em with calcium carbonate, wich you dont want if the run off is alkaline, as tap water will exacerbate or rocket an alkaline Ph during flush.Japes, if the run off Ph is 7 or above, use bottled water has low alkalinity. If  500ml run off is acidic, ie, below 6.3, then fine to use calcium carbonate / calcium bi-carbonate, loaded tap water. As you are flushing, an acidic run off with a calcium rich tap water "Buffer" solution alkaline loaded tap water. Which will elevate the acidic medium, back up into you required medium Ph range Japes dudes.

 

Check the run off's as you flush down the pot, to 1ltr run off's, either with (Alkaline or Acidic flush water. Ph'ed @6). Flush a high Ph, "Down" or flush up, the Ph, if you have acidic run off, 6.3 or below ok. get the medium Ph back into the range 6.3 to 6.8.

 

Then feed as usual, after a small drying out period, 1.5-2 days post flush. Then they will show you the results 5-9 days later Japes mate;

 

Japes, can you post the 1st run off results ? from the 1st 500ml to one litre of flush ?, Ec & Ph off that run off........... tells you "Where You Are"..@ 1st flush results... and indicates how to correct the medium\'s Ph, and lower medium Ec's if high above Ec 2.5..........

 

Post results i will interpret and post the prescription. Day 57 so no harm done Japes mate ok, and not a great deal of plant harm done either, if we get on top now Japes........;) pleased to help bro ok....

 

Mazer will load up greater than the dina ugorg........ but needs duel spectrum,  a feed water at Ec 0.9 flower nute only, and warmed to 21c. No good feeding water at 13c, stored outside cab etc....... as low medium and soil temps will also affect Ph and nute assimilation.

 

Post results i'll guide you to the point you need 3no,  1m canes in each pot.........mazar is a pure indica so an animal, thatcan handle high nutes, and light, at the right Ph'es ;)..... the ultimate less so as higher sativa sensitivities, but still a hungry Dame in flower, more airy flowers, but with those, potent, but much more aroma, projected from sativa than indica etc..... hit me with results lets get em straightened for last 4-5 wks of flower loading !! ;) Automaster, 

 

Ps; will lay odds the Ph is 6.3 or below, or 7 and above...... AM

 

Edited by Owderb
Please do not post watermarked pics. Especially from other canna forums. Thank you
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On 10/03/2017 at 6:14 PM, ComfortablyDumb said:

 

Been flicking through your diary and you say you used soil last grow ?

 

It also says you had you had some problems re-circulating stale air ?

 

You also claim not to use a PH pen ?

 

You've had good grows in that enviroment and it hasn't changed, you sure ?

 

How convinced are you that it's dialed in

 

This is your 2nd grow with Auto's, right ?

 

My thoughts are that you managed to get away with growing regs in a far from perfect enviroment without a PH pen, which you can, but it's a different ball game with Auto's.

 

My tap water PH has dropped 6 points this week, and if I hadn't been checking it my crop of Auto's would be toast !!

 

 

 

Also smells a Ph fluctuation Rat ;).......... quality comment. To get em to load up the trichs, you have to talk to em with a Ph and Ec pen......... to keep the most important peramiters in the uptake spectrum's, and feed water above 20c........ or same temp as soil, which will have to be above 19c to get nute assimilation on the plate.......... here is a Dame from DP, that knows i am talking her "Bio-Language".... DesFran 100% sensitive sativa, sensitive to "High Ec'es & Ph" and temperature fluctuation, not encountered in the wild etc.... AM

 

She is speaking my language...... in the correct ranges, soil and feed water temps, on low salt feed water RO, calcium carbonate (Tap Water) buffered, to 250ppm Ec 0.3 buffer.......  104 days fem. But i take my auto's to 80 days, for same "Ripe" load...... wall of silver trichs when the flash hits em and reflects ;) AM Ec at end was all up 0.9...... flower Ph in "Gold Label Special Mix" a Ph stables medium. Ph was 6.8

gallery_80973_6689_188503.jpg

 

Edited by AutoMaster
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@AutoMaster lol jesus my heads frazzled but I'll try. I've never checked my ph on feeds, I don't own a ph or ec metre, I just give them 3ml per litre of a&b as base and have been giving them 2ml of big bud as additives in flower. I've just been winging it with these auto's just so I have some smoke whilst I find a mother from my og kush and urgorg #1, I've bought one of those little ph test kits and I've checked my nutes and it's saying it's about 6.5. So am I to flush with bottled water and start from scratch with my nutes? Thanks for taking the time to try and help but all this technical stuff has my head all over the shop lol 

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No probs, yes just Ph some warmed bottled water to Ph 6. And then with your Ph pen, and Ec pen just take to stats of run off. The regs you grew are capable of adjusting to perimeter peramiters !

 

But i added up you total mls of nute and it's above 5mls per litre, so you is over furt, hence heavy short term tip burn. A "Very High" strength nute will, influence the medium Ph quicker than one that is high. Your Ec must be above 1.5 i would recon at 5ml ltre combined nute feed.  You tap water Ph is above 7.8 to 8. But with that amount of acidic nute 5ml litre or above. That will drop your tap water Ph down, to as you say with litmus paper around 6.5.

 

proves you have a high Ph tap water. But you cant use such a high nute volume at this stage, you can hit em last week b4 flush with a pk only Ec 1.5 hit........ and they will scoff it.

 

With your Ph pen, and your kettle warmed or grow room warmed 21c. Plain tap water, build a combined nute volume, with you Ec pen, of Ec0.9 to 1.0. Then Ph the last little bit of Ph down to 6.5......... moving up to 6.8 in last 3-4 wks of flower japes. using tap water, within the correct parametetrs, you will never get cal/mag def ok......... thats how i know you are running an "Acidic Medium"...... as 5mls plus a litre of nute will "Acidify" your medium "After 57 days Of Input|" of acidic nutes bro.......... post results if you can.

 

Your fems or regs will also benefit from you talking to them in Ec & Ph language, and will give you greater, larger, heavier yields than before ok..... you also need to get oxygen into your water b4 you Ec nute pack and Ph it. Aerate b4 warming and giving fresh warmed Ph'ed and Ec feed... AM

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@AutoMaster yea my water is very high out the tap about 7.5, right so I'm to flush my plants with warm bubbled ph to 6.0 water take a reading of the flushed water then start again with lower dosage of nutes? I don't own a ph pen or ec pen, it's gunna have to wait until I get payed b4 I can buy 1. What ph should my feed be at this age then? 

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1 hour ago, JAPE said:

@AutoMaster yea my water is very high out the tap about 7.5, right so I'm to flush my plants with warm bubbled ph to 6.0 water take a reading of the flushed water then start again with lower dosage of nutes? I don't own a ph pen or ec pen, it's gunna have to wait until I get payed b4 I can buy 1. What ph should my feed be at this age then? 

Soz bro, ad to cook dinner ;).......

 

As above if your run off is acidic below Ph 6.3 use warmed to 21c tap water to flush @ Ph 6.

 

If Alkaline run off, run off Ph is above 6.8-69-7.0 use lower salt bottled water, warmed to 21c Ph'ed @6 to flush alkaline medium.

 

Your feed should be at mid stage growing, 57 days, 6.5. Moving up to 6.8 max 7 as chart above japes ok.

 

To Ph down warmed tap water, or bottled water 5ltr "Ashbeck" bottled water is good, for flushing an alkaline medium down. To Ph down res water and flush water use "Nitric" acid in veg, and to ph down in flower and flush water, use phosphate PO4 in flower and "Mid Grow Flush"  japes.

 

To Ph up, your res, if you over do Ph down, or your nute max Ec, drags Ph down below 6.5.  you will need "Silicone phosphate" Ph up, to lift Ph upto 6.5.  Japes, if you can, use silicone from day one ok. And all the way through the grow. As silicone helps repair tissue and improves health & vigor, and disease prevention such as white mold.

 

If you look at the Ph & nute chart above, the "Magnesium" has a pinch point just below Ph6. Acidic mediums pinch out magnesium, and deliver mag defs, confused with cal/mag defs......... acidic mediums deliver more defs than an alkaline one, as chart above...... easier to go acidic, with high nute input, than it is to go alkaline with over watering high alkaline tap water etc....... you see the symbiosis....

 

So you need;

Ph Pen 30quid

Ec Pen 18quid

Ec Pen calibration fluid 4quid

Ph Pen calibration fluid 7.0 4quid

Ph down nitric acid in veg. Phosphate acid Ph down in flower. During flush period last 10 days of flower, ie last 10days use "Citric Acid" made up from granules with warm water, 5tsp in 150ml water disolve it. As improves terpens flavones and aroma post cure, as citric acid is a sugar acid.. 

use 5ml pipette 10 drop = 1ml

 

Air pump 35ltr minute and stones; hot kettle from tap water to raise res temp to to that of soil or 21c.

 

so; in this order;

aerate water,

warm water,

add nute combi pack to water,

Hit Max Ec nute combi, to start back in at Ec0.9 total Ec

Then a few drops of Phos Ph down, to hit 6.5

Then feed Dames fresh aerated, Ph'ed, nuted feeds to 100-150ml run off, warmed to 21c ;)

Then leave for 1 day no feed, and run off gone and surface soil to first finger knuckle dry.

Then feed again......... to run off first sight, stop feeding.

 

The drying period lets in "Valuable" oxygen, and heads off an anaerobic lower root zone scenario. That rotten eggs whiff, when run off pushes out the methane rotten root breakdown gases. never sit plant in water and leave it in water......

 

Before you get paid, Japes bro,  use ashbeck bottles water, to flush girls warmed water only, this will use up the overfert nutes jammed in medium, and root matrix. And will help lower Ph before you get test kit above ok. Use squeezed lemon juice 5 drops per litre, to bring down ashbeck Ph from 6.5 ! to 6 ok. Give em that till we get the meters and ph down and up acids ok Japes man......

 

Note; white bud mold, will only have a niche to start if RH relative Humidity, is above 60 to 65% and air circulation is poor, or dead still, as with HPS lamps. if the fan is to fast, or to big for a single carbon filter, @RH65, you will get filter byepass.....

 

Note; At 65% RH or above, your carbon filter will fill "Micro Pores" will fill with moister, and begin to fail, and byepass the VOc's volatile organic compounds, or strong aromatic flower terpens into the outside zone....

 

Automaster

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by AutoMaster
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@AutoMaster wow bud cheers for your help i'lI follow your instructions to the dot. Thanks for taking your time to explain things been such a good help, much appreciated jape

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@AutoMaster

another cracking post bro

think I will have to stalk ur profile some more so I can ingest all this info

major kudos to you

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