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Found 348 results

  1. Hi. I’m thinking about using Wilma / Origin drip feed with fabric pots and soil, within a 1m x 1m tent in an unheated space. Would it benefit from oxygenating the water within the tank with an aquarium air pump? Also, would using an aquarium heater within the tank be sufficient enough thermal store to take the edge off of night time temp drops? Any advice welcome. Many thanks. Mr. Bluntwell
  2. Hi All, so i guess i better start with a little back story to my current situation! Ive been growing for awhile and have used the same setup now for quite some time, MH for Veg and HPS for flower. I'd been considering upgrading to LED for awhile and have been following folks on here to see how they have been getting on. I decided to get a Scopex 900 when i sore they were available at just under 600 quid from DIYLED, a proper bargain by anyones terms! Now im in a 1.2m square tent (upgrading to 1.5m planned for my next round) so i new that the light was gunna be more than i needed for this round. So i decided to start things off the way i always do under a CFL to start,, then once potted and onto the wilma under a 250w MH. All was going well, ladies were topped and all 4 were looking grand, lush health new growth and no signs of anything but what was looking to be a outstanding round. So with everything running smoothly and the ladies looking in good shape (just shy of 7 weeks from seed) i decided to break out the LED and see what all the chat was about. This unfortunately this was the start of everything going very wonky and was just over two weeks ago now. First issue was temps, which i think may have cause a bit of shock as at one point they dipped to 19 for a short period. However i managed to get temps to sit between 23 and 29 with lights on and off for the following week or so then refined that range further. Second issue was the fact id been running a 24hr on veg, with MH this was ok but i think the 350w of LED was too much to run for 24hr straight so introduced a 20/4 cycle. Third issue was EC,, now at first i thought i had over fed cos i got what looked like burnt tips, EC was at 0.9 so i dropped it down a couple of points,, but very quickly realised that i had a falling EC ( and the ladies looked hungry) and upped my EC every day/every other as the RES EC just kept on falling after 12hrs or so,, this went on for 9 days, until i hit a RES EC of 1.9. By this time i thought it best to do a fresh RES as all this topping up is never a good idea for obvious reasons. So 4 days ago i did a fresh RES at 1.8 EC. And within 12hrs the opposite started to happen,,, the EC had risen 1.9! So over the last three days ive been going in revers,, every time checking the EC to find that it has climbed back up and then me lowing the EC by adding fresh RO,, until this morning when ive knocked it all the way down to 1.0. Suffice to say the ladies are not happy,, i dont know if one of them is gunna be recoverable and over the last 72hrs another one is looking proper sick. I think they have lock out,, but not sure what else i can do. I also think there is an underlying deficiency which is why i cant nail my EC. Ive suspected it was a MAG issue and have tried some foiler feeding a couple of times but to no effect. I havent wanted to introduce anything else feed wise into the RES as the rising/falling issue has not been solved. Sooooooooo, here are the details and some pics (taken 2 days ago) of my set up to provide a little more clarity to anyone reading. I will add close up pics from today as things are looking worse. This LED malarky has been a steep re-learning curve to say the least but with my environment now steady with temps between 23.5 and 28.5, EC @ 1.0 i dont know how else to combat the lock out/deficiency issue thats now causing havoc. Wilma 4 pot hybrid dripper + DWC. (decent roots in the res for all but the sickest looking lady) Drippers are on for 15mins 4 times during the light cycle. Advanced nuets A & B with RO water, system is chilled with water temps steadily between 20 & 21. A little silver bullet added to prevent pathogens. Scopex 900 running @ 360w hung at aprox 80cm above canopy in a 1.2m sq tent, 3 fans internally circulating the air + temp controlled extraction. Air temps are between 25-28 lights on and 23.5-26 lights off.
  3. Hi guys really struggling since moving to a bigger wilma system. Mega slow growth unhealthy plants . Some plants have grown a good root system in 3/4 weeks in the pots and some are still small seedling sized plants where roots have not spread much. Lots of yellow and brown lower leaves. Have an ec of 1 using ionic nutes. Temps around 26 with lights on just cant get this right and its bugging me tempted to go back to soil at this rate . Growth just seems really slow
  4. Hi guys, have run a 4 pot wilma for over a year now no issues had upgraded the pump and used the spare as a circulator in the res. recently got a 9 pot same story better pump and old one in res. Running same nutes and pebbles. Getting blockages and a lot of leaks from the wilma system tubing so upgraded to 19mm hose with all the correct elbows and 2 stainless manifold to try help it. Still getting blockages . My other wilma never has an issue with this. The only differnce is the brand of pebbles but they were well rinsed my local shop never hard any canna ao got vitalink pebbles notices a black buildup and some white buildup ao wondering if its and algae or salt build up?
  5. Hi guys plants have been moved into a wilma not doing great. This is the second time this has happened now. Some people saying overwatering some saying under watered. Ec is 1.2 background is 0 0.2ec is calmag, rest is ionic grow. H202 added also. lights on 26 lights off 19 Res is between 20-26 pics below first 3 are from this attempt last 2 are from first attempt
  6. Hello everyone I've got a small wilma system and I've noticed these living in the tank below. Kind of like tiny wood lice. They float in colonies on the tank and I've noticed them underneath the pots. I've not seen any leaf damage and can't see any on the leaves even with a magnifying glass. If you zoom in you should be able to see them. Not sure if they're Russet Mites? I've had spider mite and thrips before but not seen these. Any help appreciated. Cheers
  7. Hi all, hoping for a little diagnosis help. Changed the res 5 days ago and since the ladies are not looking happy. Before the RES change the EC was the same at 0.7 (0.6 of that bloom A&B Mix with 0.1 made up of Mag extra AN additive = total 0.7) and things were going swimmingly with great colour and great vigor in growth,, they looked banging! 5 Days later not so much! Much lighter in general colour and rusting on some leafs, one lady has been hit harder than the other three but she is most defo a different pheno as she has looked different from the get go. A little info.... 1.2x1.2m tent 400w MH 10ltr pots with clay pebbles,, drip system hybrib with some roots in the res allready. Air out through carbon filer and in through RVK'S Temps are 20/21 off and between 25 & 28 degres on. Lights 20 on & 4 off Humidity 65% Water recirculated with Res pump and also pumped to chiller unit and kept at 20-21 Degres Water is RO with EC @ 0.7 using Advanced Neuts hydro Sensi Grow Today I have added a little (15ml to aprox 35ltr full res) Advanced neuts MAG extra as ive read on here that Glookies are Cal/Mag hungry and it seams to marry up with how they are looking,, well that and abit of a nitrogen deficiency too caused maybe by the lack of Cal??? Any help or advice on whether im on the right track would be most appreciated! @stu914 Any thoughts pal,, i know you've been on the AN neuts for ever! Ever had any Cal/Mag issues?? or might it be something else?
  8. Hi guys done a few grows in soil but watering is becoming an issue as i can be away a few days at a time. Getting a wilma and have decided on clay pebbles. Few questions how do you start a seed in clay pebbles? Rockwool ? Root riot cubes? Or something else? next question heard good things about ionic nutrients so have decided on them can i use silver bullets with this? How often should i set feed timer Whats ideal ph and ec for this system thanks in advance guys dont want to muck it up .
  9. Hello there Looking for some advice please. I am about to start my third hydro grow in a Wilma 8 pot system bought in 2011. Previously and pretty successfully I had followed a feed chart in the Growell catalogue. This time round and following reading a couple of articles on importance of staying on top of EC I have made a rather impulsive purchase of a Bluelab Truncheon, however back home and ‘out of the box’, I have a couple of questions… Firstly, the Wilma involves completely weekly reservoir change. Following a daily EC reading is it basically a case of adjusting basic nutrients (Samurai G&B in this case) or water in the reservoir as necessary, or would other aspects of the feed regime need adjusting maybe daily? Secondly, particularly into flowering, moving plants off the top of the reservoir for water/ nutes etc is highly disruptive once a week let alone throughout the week, assuming a daily EC check and necessary adjustments of water and nutes, is it usually possible to manage all this through the small(ish) hole where the dripper pipe feeds into the reservoir or will plants need to be moved around more than usual within the usual weekly res change? Basically, how do you guys using a Wilma get on with using EC wands like Bluelab and managing nutrients thereafter? Obviously, I want the best for the plants and would like to understand this technology but is it practical for use with my old Wilma or should I just stick with the feed chart? Any thoughts much appreciated! YP
  10. Hello you lovely bunch! This is my 2nd run of the cookies!! I'm sure most of you have seen my previous diary "fresh batch of cookies" I've been away from the dinafem section for about 4 months running some stardawg cuttings, just couldn't wait to get some more dinafem girls back in the room tho Popped the 8 ogc in a glass of water, 2 blueberry cookies and a wedding cake og I found in my fridge just incase germination rate doesn't give me the 8 keepers I desire.. Although I've had nothing but 100% germ with dinafem Got my veg cab up and running, tested everything over night, got the 2ft tube heater on 24 hours atm as it's a little chilly but I'm going to add another tube heater just to boost the night time temps a little so I don't drop below 20. Little run down of my veg cab, its a 90x90x60 budlite and only cost me about 40 quid, I use a double 2ft t5 veg light, couple tube heaters, little clip fan which has last me tbf, I'll be germinating then potting into 1.5litre Square pots with pure coco feeding plant start and a little root stim for the 1st few weeks then introduce A&B, silicon, root stim through veg. Main room is 2.1m height, 2.4m long and 1.6m wide I run 3 x 600w hps light at the moment, 8 pot xxl Wilma system and this run I'll be using 12litre fabric pots again as I had a great experience this run with them. I'll be using 2 inch coco balls bottom of the pot and fill the rest with 100% canna coco (I usually use the stuff with 2% charge but wanted a change) 8 inch extraction fan, 6 inch intake, oil rad box for light out temps and I'll be using a 1.5m tube heater in middle of pots too. 2 osc 16" fans ermm think that's it If I can I'll be running 8 ogc but I will see, plenty of seats for this grow.. Take one and enjoy Just this second out the seeds to soak in 18C water for around 16 hours , so tomorrow I'll be transplanting to jiffys.
  11. So basically I’m having to move away from my grow space around 60 miles away, will be able to keep it going and just come back once a week. So I’ve been looking into these Wilma systems.. I know I can make one myself but for me I’d rather just buy it if it’ll do the job for me. I have a few questions thou if anyone can kindly help. The one I was looking at has a 70l tank, which is gonna use a hella lot of nutes.. will I be able to get away with topping it up once a week and changing it every 2? Otherwise I’ll be running through 5l of coco a and another 5 of b which will end up costing a lot. I have everything else in my tent automated so it’s just this now really! Cheers for the help guys
  12. Soaked my 10 critical 2.0 seeds last night and popped them in the veg cab. Soaked jiffys in 18 degree water with 2ml plant start :litre Closed dome until heads show through jiffys then remove dome. My 2 dinafem cookie strains are coming to an end now so kick starting this diary! I'll be using my 8 pot xl Wilma system so I'll be choosing 8 of the 10 jiffys. 3 x 600w hps in my 2.4m x 1.6m grow room. I'll be using 15litre super roots air pots or fabric pots but I'm yet to decide. I'll do a proper update in the week when the seeds have popped up. Been mega busy tonight getting the seeds started and the flower room started on the flushing.
  13. Hello there guys, posted in here abit but a little run down on my growing system... I use a wilma xxl 8 pot system, 3 x 600w hps. Just completed my 4th grow so still a novice always looking to improve. 1st grow I used; 18 litre square plastic wilma pots, 100% coco with 2 inch of clay balls Second grow I used 25 litre square plastic Wilma pots with 70/30 coco perlite 2 inch clay balls at the bottom. These plants tried to grow 2ft bigger than my room height so alot of tying down and super cropping was involved, extremely close to the hps and it was heatwave season so most of the grow was done at the 250w/400w setting. Resulted in 25oz, some burnt bud, very airy bud too. 3rd grow I ran Dinafems ocean grown cookies, 18 litre square Wilma pots, 100% 2%charge coco 2 inch clay balls at bottom. Also put a big tube heater down the middle of the Wilma to help root temps at lights out. This was by far my favourite grow which left me about 35oz of tight purple frosty nugs 4th grow I wanted to try and keep improving, I opted for 12 litre airpots with 70/30, I set up a drip ring using 4mm hose and t peices. I did however forget to put the tube heater down the middle of the Wilma, I do beleive light out temps was too cold and the pots definitely Contributed to the roots feeling it, all my plants hermied. I broke up the 70/30 into my compo bin last night and the roots inside the airpots was pretty impressive tbh, when I used my square Wilma plastic pots majority of the root mass is at the walls and the floor of pot where as the airpots it's throughout the whole pot and alot of them! So what I've gathered knowledge wise I want my 5th grow to be the best yet! I've had my best yeild results from the 18l square plastic pots with tube heater using 100% but I would like to give fabric pots a try. I will use the drip ring as the feed is evenly distributed into the coco. Any little tips or methods you guys use or acquired through your experiences? If I did try fabric pots, what size would you recommend if 18l plastics are my preferred size. Do you use clay balls at bottom in fabric pots? Also how do you Wilma users keep those pots toasty? I have a intake box with oil rad and that 1x 1.5m tube heater.. Could do with a couple degrees higher for those cold mornings tho, another tube heater maybe? I've not re read what I've wrote hope it makes sence.
  14. Hi guys new on here am using a 8 pot Wilma system 18 litre 2 inch of clay pebbles and coco. I keep reading about having run off ( I have no run off) I’ve got my timer set at 2x 15 minutes a day using the black drippers. My baby’s are 3 weeks in veg. Shall I up the feed till I get run off or let the plant tell me. Any advice be great cheers guys
  15. Can someone recommend a circulation fan? I have a black orchid 1x1x2 grow tent with a wilma system and three seedlings. There is also a VIPARSPECTRA Reflector-Series V450 450W LED Grow Light. Thanks!
  16. Hi all,,, please see pics below and a full description half way down!!! Thanks in advance for any advice. Hi all, So i'm having some issues with using the Advanced Nutrients Grow range, used them before with no problems but this time ive got leafs that aint lookin too good! Lemonade OG from @panik Week 5 (laggin a little behind schedule due to some school boy errors whilst seedlings) Topped 10 days ago. Res temp is 19-20 Air temps 21-26 Wilma 50ltr with circulation pump and Haliea Chiller, 11ltr pots with pebbles, internal small clip fan, intake and extraction RVK Vegging with 325w of CFL Advanced Neuts Sensi Grow A&B + Hydroguard EC 0.9 PH is 7,, but as im sure ya'all know its not meant to be a factor with AN neuts as they are have a much larger working range due to being chelated. Here are some pics,,, My suspicion is a Mag deficiency tho im really not sure! Any other AN users out there that have had the same problem??? @stu914 any ideas mate as i know your a AN grower!?! Have you experienced anything similar?? Mag deficiency mayb??? Mr Panik says it looks like a PH issue!
  17. Hi all,, a couple of quick questions for you? 1, Does your EC have an effect on the temp of you res water? What i mean by this is, does the water in your res warm quicker/easier if the EC in your water is higher? 2, What temp is ideal for a res? Ive modded my wilma so the roots dont go into the res in the thought that i may be able to get away with slightly higher res temps if the roots are in it. Lights off im at 19c and lights on it climbs upto 22c. Ive tried everything to bring res temps down and really dont wanna have to buy a chiller. Thanks in advance...
  18. Hi all, Thought i would document my 4th grow Feedback & criticism more than welcome as i am still leaning! Equipment 1.2 x 1.2 x 2m Secret Jardin DR Tent 6" Carboair carbon filter 1350 m3/hr 6" RVK Fan 720 m3/h Wilma 4 pot large 18 litre pots Cleaned and reused Just clay pebbles for medium Lighting Maxibright T5 Lightwave (seeds) 400w MH (veg) 600w Dual Spectrum HPS (veg/flower) Seeds 4 x Critical+ 2.0 fems Nutrients Vitalink Max A+B Silver Bullet Roots Grow Room Built a partitioned wall in my internal garage. Decent size room with a radiator (central heating) Vented straight to outside Setup: They are currently 8 days into flower, still stretching strong. Apologies for pictures with lights on, will update diary with some better quality pictures. They seem to be heavy feeders, Background EC of water is 0.2EC Current feed mixed is 2.0EC and EC is still dropping daily Think ive been underfeeding, so monitoring daily to keep on top of it. Will keep diary updated until harvest. Cant come quick enough for the Mrs as her jars are nearly empty Thanks for reading!
  19. Hi,,, please scroll on through,, all advice welcome! Hi all, newbie still making newbie error's!! Ive been doing abit of reading up on this but yet to find a definitive answer and was hoping some of you on here might be able to help! Im 4 weeks and 4 days from flipping my Original glue ladies in a Wilma, 600hps, running advanced neuts. Temps are good and so is humidity, EC is 1.5. Has been up at 1.6 but ive dropped it down as i found after they finished stretching the ec has been rising after 48hrs or so. The bottoms of my ladies are going very light green,, Nitrogen dif? or somthing more? Something dont look right!?!? A few of the lower leafs have just fallen off when brushed past, the steams seam brittle, and as you can see in the pic there is a massive diference in their colour. This has happend over the last 72hrs or so. Ive had some issues lately with some suspected root rot (last week or two) and so the ladies have been stressed recently with an initial "farmer grade tonic" treatment and full scrub down of the wilma with 12% paroxide and then a full strength treatment with silver bullet the following week. I had been adding the BigBud Advanced neut additive as-well before but have dropped it as i think it was giving me to much calcium, i had some clear like snot in my res and read that this can be caused by hard water (which i have! + a high background ec of 0.3.) and or may have been connected to the rot!?! So here we are, more pics below,, thoughts please?? Do i add some grow neuts in next top up to try and get some more nitrogen in the mix? Thanks in advance... The bo
  20. First post on this forum, so here goes! I've done a fair few grows using compost and while the results have been good, I'm looking for a new challenge and something a bit more efficient that can churn out a bit more bud for the grow space with less electric cost. I'm currently growing in soil a 1.2m tent with a pair of 400w HPS alongside a 0.75m tent with a 250w MH. I'm vegging 4 plants in the 0.75m tent until it's full in 18l pots, then moving the plants to the 1.2m tent to veg for another couple of weeks to fill out the space before flowering, turning around about 300-350g every 65 days. I then dry the bud in the 0.75m tent for a week before vegging four new plants in there. Works well but now I want to expand a bit and try something new... What I want to do now is a SOG style grow using the WILMA clay pebbles system either using the XXL 16 or 20 plant system. Ideally I'd like to be able to keep my trusty 1.2m tent in use for vegging (BudBox pro so a really nice piece of kit) and then get a 2.4*1.2m or even a 3*1.5 if it can fill out for flowering. I could veg the plants for half a flowering cycle in the 1.2m square tent constantly so it could serve the 2.4*1.2m tent (with two WILMA XXL trays) with a full WILMA XXL tray of plants ready to flower every four weeks or a little less so get a nice 1.4m squared worth of bud every four weeks or less once it's up and running. Has anyone done this? Is there something that I'm missing here? Ideally I'd like to go for the WILMA 16 pot XXL and do a trial run in my 1.2m tent before buying too much new gear just to get the hang of it. So this is my plan can anyone give me a bit more guidance? I've got lots more to ask but don't want to end up writing an essay and would rather start a good old fashioned dialogue with the seasoned experts!
  21. Hi all,, so i have 5 Original Glue girls in a wilma/1.2 tent with 600w hps just about to finish their 3rd week since i flipped them to 12/12. Id say they have finished their stretch and are showing all their early bud sites in the last 3 days. I cleared up the bottom 3rd of them pretty well after about 10 days of stretch but left the canopy alone pretty much. Now tho the canopy is pretty damn dense and i was wondering weather its too late for me to de-foil the top two thirds to allow more light penetration? Im also a little worried as i'm getting quit a few "sweaty" leafs due to the density and i'm running Original Glue beans that ive heard can be prone to bud rot later down the line if things are too damp/cramped. So do i de-foil now? and if so how heavy and which leafs to aim for? Cheers in advance...
  22. I am going to transplant 3 Jack Herer which currently grow in a R-DWC into a Wilma system. The plants are in their vegetative state and growing happily and the medium I am using in both cases is clay pebbles. So my concerns here are: 1. How bad will this be for the roots? Going from being submmerged in a oxygenated solution to being irrigated from the top at different intervals. 2. What is the best way to proceed? I'm afraid the long roots will be compressed by the weight of the pebbles resulting in damage. Is there any other preventive measures I should take to make the process as painless as possible? Thanks in advance, buds.
  23. unnamed.png

    From the album Wilma Ring Design

    Watering ring conversion for a Wilma 4 pot
  24. Hello UK 420, new to this forum. Interested in advice from other growers as this is all new to me and fed up of having to rely on the black market. Me and also a friend have decide to do a setup up each and grow our own strains. All very exciting but also very daunting. A friend that grows recommended a x2 4 pot 25L wilma pot system. With x6 600w omega sunblaster dual spectrum bulbs. with a 5" rhino incline fan and 10" rhino pro carbon filter. with various nutrients. Originally was going to convert a room, but have decide to go with a tent suits me better to keep it out the way of the family. After looking across the forum. Overwhelmed with various things to go for. The Green tube tent for instance looks great. Would really appreciate, If you could help me through the list of things i need to begin before i go purchase the stuff as I'm unsure of the list I've been giving and is a big investment for me. Heres what I've got down so far. Greenlab grow tent unsure of what size needed for 8 plants. x2 4 Pot 25L wilmasystem ( also seen auto pots they look good ) x6 Omega Digi-pro euro digital grow light kit is has ballet and euro reflector. ( this seems like a lot ) 5" twin speed Rhino incline fan 10" Rhino pro carbon filter with ducting and clips Plant magic bloom 5L Box of shooting powders 500g ton of bud Rhizotonic 5l PK/13/14 1L Canna coco A+B 5L ( any changes and advice will be really appreciated. what tent to go for, are the wilma system worth while or should i use another. x6 lights seems loads swell as the nutrients. I'm sure theres things i haven't got on the list i need aswell. look forward to the feedback can't wait to get the ball rolling a big 420 thank you
  25. Hi all, so ive been stumbling my way through my first grow fairly well (or at least i thought i had!) reading massive amounts from this forum which has been invaluable so far but i seam to have hit a bit of a wall! All was going well until the last two weeks or so, after some bad advice on my lamp height/power and watering schedules aka i was advised that i could water them for 15mins every hr as i had switched from a 125w CFL to a 600w HPS! When i had only been watering them for 15mins 6 times a day before hand with the CFL. So as you may have guessed over watering ensued and by the time i cottoned onto it it was really prevalent with droopy leafs, stunted growth being the most obvious and then the onset of burnt tips and then the signs of Nitrogen deficiency with the bottom leaves turning yellow and dropping off followed by the next leaf ect ect. Suffice to say i've lowered the feeds back down to 6 per day and raised the lamp up so temps aren't so high, that was 4 days ago and things don't seem to be turning around too quick, still getting more yellow leafs,,, making me questions is my diagnosis correct!?! So i guess i have a few questions that i'm hoping you guys will be able to help me out with. 1, How long should it take for the N deficiency to clear up? 2, is there something else at play that i have over looked? 3, what else can i do to help them recover? 4, Any other Ferro use'ers out there have any tips on using the range? or have a diary i could read? 5, My fans seam to be running full chat most of the time and yet my temps are still a fair bit higher then what ive set on the controller? i.e my controller is set to 24 degrees and yet temps are topping out at 28! Im guessing the 2nd hand controller i got wasn't such a bargain eh! =( 6, Is 6 feeds a day still too much? Any wilma use'ers out there have timing advice in regards to feeds? My set up is as follows,,, Female Seeds Lemon Kush, planted from seed 7weeks ago, topped at the 4th node and attempting to scrog. Wilma 4 Pot with 5ltr pots & clay pebbles and x4 air stones. 1.2x1.2 tent with a 600w hps aprox 3 feet above canopy on a 18/6 cycle. Ventilation ect is controlled by SMS Com 2amp Hybrid controller With RVK 100e2 in take and RVK 150e2 out through a massive Rino filter, 700w Oil heater with circulation clip fan above. PH is a steady 5.8 and my EC is at 1.5 with a background of 0.2 Air Temps are between 28 and 20 at lights off, with humidity around 40%, Water temps are naturally between 23-25 Im using the West Sussex Ferro range of neuts, using the GROW at the mo along with the Enzyme +, Bio Crop & Bio Roots,,, all at the recommended amounts as per Ferro. Any help, advice, criticism is welcome and massively appreciated! Not sure how to post pics on here, could anyone share a how to link? Cheers...