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Found 20 results

  1. HII am leaving the house for 14 days . I have a tent and 5 plants in these pots 3 gallon fabric I have an adult person in the house BUT for reasons I cannot have them access the tent and check my soil and water(autism is a Bitch lacking a filter to whom they can talk about what is growing)What I can do and have done is put 5 driplines (without dripper so mini hose) in a reservoir and the plants can be fed by adding water to the reservoir which will run straight through to my 5 plants.I know this is far from ideal... but roughly how much water would a 6-8 week plant in a 11.35 Litres /3G growbag need per day/per 2 daysSetup:PLant in 3G growbag with soilon top of IKEA coaster (1.5 cm high)on driptray(Normal watering procedure is every 2 days , watter untill the driptray starts collecting water , suck out driptray after 30 minutes of excess water) Plants seem to take , but i never kept records, 1L at the moment (The two photo's a bit less) but I also suck out .75 to 1 L in total over the plants Issue 1: not underwateringIssue 2: overwatering to the extend my driptrays overflow into the bottom cover box of my tent (whatever you call that foldable tray as remaining water there will dramatically increase my humiity My ideas so far every day feed 3L to the plants : The plants might not drip through but they are getting water every 2 days about 5 L : risk of over watering driptray should take care of that Moving the 2 autoflowers out of the tent into garden...(BUT knowing MY luck we will have a 2 week dry spell outside), bigger deeper driptrays for the autos and 4 L every 2 days Though my plant will most likely get a knock ... this is damage controlHow much water does a plant aproximately need Hoping to minimaise over /under watering to a minimum.Fan will go full blast (its overkill for my tent size to deal with possible excess humidity
  2. What are the best ways to protect plants from the deer and similar animals when put in the ground? Do things like hydrogel helps in high humid foresty areas, which are very close to water source, stream? Could I go without watering at all? I was thinking that the plant can basically plugin and get water from the underground stream, fog at the morning. Is the hydrogel needed at all there? thank you very much guerilla growers I would appreciate your opinions and help
  3. Started 8 days ago from seed in fabric 15l pots. photoperiods. ones a bit droopy what do you guys think?
  4. CB8A689F-04A4-483A-8C3E-6F02A8AB7FB0.jpeg

    From the album Groom build out and opticlimate

    Water pipe and power coming through the wall. 4mm cable radial circuit taking power to the sockets.
  5. Just interested in the forums take on Leafly, and Seedsmans recent articles on water filtration and the removal of THC and CBD during this process of water cooling when smoking/vaping...Essentially the water takes more of the oils and canabinols out of your weed, and on the same level as combustion...you can lose up to 70% of your oils using this process, the same as setting fire to it can also burn off up to 70%... I use an elcetronic dab rig for concentrates. I also dont fill the water resevoir either, I also prefer to use a Dynaval/tyinymight/steamroller if combusting (never nowadays), or a dry pipe and /or a vape, again without a water cooling element. Considering the vapour from your weed doesnt need to be anymore than about 380-390, to get the full spectrum including the exta cbd from the deep heat/bowl end, why on earth would you want to run that through water to cool it...? And more importantly strip your essentials out... I cure my weed for months, which takes the harshness out, and when I dont set fire to my weed, which I havent done for 6/7 years now, the vapour is already cool and very palateable. The water also strips thre mainstay of the terpenes from the weed gettign caught up in the h molecule I believe, and the flavonids are water soluble too... So thats up to 70% of the thc/cbd, most of the flavonids, and pretty much all of the terpenes all gone in one foul swoop...just running your weed thorugh 25-30ml of water..on average... Drink your water...dont smoke it!
  6. I keep on finding that despite cleaning the water, the water I use in the clones tank is building up a weird substance on the outside of the airline and the air stone plastic ring backing. It happens on my main tank as well which is an auto pot water tank and its never had any feeds in it, its a water only tank. So I could do with some ideas on what this stuff could be given that the water has no feed in it, has been carbon filtered and is bubbled to keep it oxygenated, other than that, there is no rhyme or reason why this stuff should be appearing as there is no chance of photo synthesis, the clone tank is black bodied, the top I made covers the top and the slits allow enough room for the cuttings to poke through in to the water below. So I am a bit stumped and could do with suggestions on what this issue might be. How I clean my water. 1. Water stands until the chloramines are showing that they are starting the break down in to chlorine by way of the Nitrogen bubbles that appear on the wall of the bucket. Find that an ambient 22 ~ 25 degrees C is optimum temperature as chloramine and chlorine are temperature sensitive gasses. It should be 18-24 hours for that process, I allow 48 hours. 2. Carbon filtering and also aerated.for minimum 48 hours before water is tested for PH and EC. 3. Water is treated with 4.5 or 5ml of PH Down (which is normal) and as long as water PH is 7.4 (its normal reading) EC 0.3 or 0.4 then the shot of PHD will hit the 5.8/5.9 mark on one go. 4. Water is circulated through the Carbon filter continually and is also aerated. 5. Water PH is tested as is EC 6. Water is then used as needed with feed mixes being made up in 2.5 litre units which is what I need, using Canna means its a 10ml A + 10ml B which is loads easier for me and if I screw up, its only one small batch that has to be remade. So it is an average of 6 days prep and standing before water is considered OK to use on the plants. Suggestions... I have based my treatment on several variants and what has been gleaned from off grid living types that do their youtubing on how they have treated water for their own irrigation and consumption, etc. Most of these people being some kind of chemist or has a chemical engineering background, so its based on solid stuff, not fake crap that seems to flood the internet these days.. I feel like I have missed a step here in ensuring that there is no contamination, this is only building up on the air lines, the tubing is food grade and for water use, so phthalates not present, its silicone stuff not PVC and did I mention food grade? HELP..!
  7. Water source?

    From the album New beginnings

  8. Afternoon everyone, I’m after some advice and wondering if anyone can help me out with R.O units and which is best to go for. My background e.c is 0.7 so water is terrible and I’m thinking it’s worth the investment now to be able to work with clean water and really give the plants a proper feeding instead of loads of unknown crap. My local hydro shop wants silly money for a unit so been looking online but there’s so many to choose from 3/4/5/6 stage which will be suitable? I’m guessing just a bog standard 3 stage will be fine but if anyone has experience with them I’d be grateful. Cheers
  9. Hi Everyone, I am new here so firstly I would like to say hi to everyone and that I look forward to what I hope will be a long journey here on this forum. I have never grown before and I am currently prepping for my first, I will be germinating this weekend. I have just been calibrating my new pH & EC readers (both are Essentials) and getting base readings for our water. Here's where things are getting a little strange, we have an undersink reverse osmosis filter (we've had this for some time now as I don't want the tap water for obvious reasons, I have however replaced all the filters a few days ago to get the best of the best for my girls-to-be) and I know manufacturer (iSpring Water Systems) specification is that water pH should come out at 7.4, it came out at 8 which is fine for myself and will just have to use a lot of down, but the EC reading has come out at 0.8, which even as a virgin grower I know is waaaay higher than the majorities. I know that during filtration some ionised minerals are added (calcium, magnesium, sodium & potassium), but this has thrown me off completely as I now have no idea where I'm at with nutrients. My plan was to start the seedlings off with around 0.5-0.6 EC (assuming a base of 0.2) as I am growing in coco, so 0.8 is already higher than that without any nutes added. Should I just treat this as my base? Should I use normal tap water? I really am lost and have no idea how to even find the answer. Any help or general beginners advice would be hugely appreciated. I'm so excited to be joining this wonderful community and can't wait to progress, happy growing!
  10. Evening all, I’ve pretty much blocked my second carbon filter because of running tap water through my humidifier. I was getting 100ltrs of RO at a time from the aquarium shop but became a pain in the arse but I think it’s really time I got myself an RO filter. I’ve only got a little 1.2 tent with a 315 cmh and 600 hps in, I usually do from 4-8 plants and have to fill up my 8l humidifier every day in early veg... So never going to be using loads of water. I figured if I’m getting a filter I may as well use it for water the plants as well. I’ve been looking at 3 different RO filters In my local grow shop, ranging between £217-308. First is a Power grow 500, then a Maxquarium at £242 and finally the Max grow 1000. Which one do you think you be suitable for my needs? Having never used one before are the 2 chamber filters much slower than the 3 chamber? Also looked at the 5 stage household jobbies for about £100, are these as good? And would it be that difficult to fit? They’re a damn site cheaper than the ones in the hydro shop! Any help advice would be much appreciated
  11. Hi guys, just a quick one. Thinking about putting a 250/300 litre water tank up in the attic for a new set up. Only thing i'm worried about is the weight load over the small distance. Do you think the joists will be able to take it? Any suggestions? Kind regards. Jason.
  12. May I bend the ears of you guys that have the knowledge, 2 of my seeds popped, put them in soil and we have new life, got them in soil, in plastic cups, 1. how long under the lights for, is it 24 hrs or is it 18-6? 2. should I be watering every few days with just water? 3. do I need the fan on at this stage? 4. do I need extractor fan on too? I'll load up a photo later for your advice, thanks in advance you guys defo know your stuff.
  13. Hi fellow farmers... could anyone tell me if I need to use cal mag with my water . apparently my water company says my water is moderately soft.. Containing 21-40mg/l of calcium and 51-100mg/l. Of Calcium carbonate With an english Clark degrees of 3.6-7. my ph is around 7 and my ec pen shows 0.1-0.2 i store my water in a 120l water butt and pass air through it using a fish tank pump, I usualy let it stand for two - three days so it warms up and some of the chlorine dissipates. im using bio bizz all mix soil and bio bizz newts. any help would be much apriciated .... many many thanks tri666
  14. Hi UK420, I'm hoping someone might be to offer some advice on the following. Since growing i've had MG def Usually showing on Autos on the 4 th/5th week and in photos around the same time. with the rapid loss of leaves to follow. My first counter to the problem was to add Epsom salts at Week 3 -5 this made some improvement but was still a big issue. I then added Cal / MG in the form of Equilibrium , this actually made it worse. My next step was to test the PPM of my Tap water which came out around between 250-290 Looked online at my water suppliers Information and stated it was a Hard water area. My conclusion was that it was possible i was suffering CAL toxicity and in turn getting locked out of MG. I Bought some TNT Bactorr in the hope the Bennies would chealate the excess in the water I also bought some RO Water in the hope of starting with a clean sheet would be easier on my next grow ,but soon discovered that RO water needs to buffered ideally with tap water. (Haven't used the RO Water yet) I Also changed Nutrients towards the end of my last grow From Plant magic Oldtimers Bloom (the newer thin one ) over to Bio canna flores In the hope that using a nutrient with lower cal might help the ratios of cal to mg I also realized that i probably over watering as personal observation on my last grow. and that photo period plants i did last grow did suffer from mg def but i had time to rectify with Epsom salts ,where as with the autos they never seem to recover fully. In that time i was looking for more alternatives , and was looking for hard water nutrients, well to my knowledge there aren't any hard water based organic nutrients ? I seen the positive feed back given to Growers Ark on here and had look , seen they do water tests also noticed its salts based and therefor not organic which to be honest put me off a tad,but without any current alternatives i decided to buy the Soil starter kit but not before requesting the Water test , GA Who were extremely Helpful and i see why they have a good reputation on here. Completed the water test and sent the following info. " So basically not to much MG in water and by using GA Hard water nutrients i should be OK. but ideally i want to keep organic ,although some of my next grow will be done with GA soil kit And with Bottled organic nutrients i guess i should be looking for a feed with high MG Or some sort of amendment to the soil? or of coarse i could just add Epsom salts through the entire grow adding to the water but I'm unsure how much i should be adding ? Given the info provided above would anyone be able to give advice on roughly how much i should add and when ? when it comes to adding MG, I Guess this would also depend on what nutrient i used? at the moment i have the complete PM range Plagrons alga grow and bloom and Fishmix and Bio Flores when it comes to bottled organic nutrients. As mentioned above i have 100 ltrs of RO water i was planning to use this on my next grow in the hope of eliminating what i thought at the time was high CAL levels now knowing its more to do with low MG , Will adding Tap water as a buffer still be a good idea ? i fear i would still have to add MG to the water because its not going to be in the Ro water and its not in the tap ? Just about to start another grow and if its not obvious yet i've completely confused myself before i've even started. To add to the confusion i also wanted to have a stab at No till style to see if that could offer a better, easier solution so bought 2x 15ltr Air pots and some organic soil Plagrons Royal mix along with the Dry amendment Supermix some worm casts , air pump, compost tea,etc its not real NO TILL in the sense i havnt sourced the individual ingredients ,to me its more about testing the style of growing and seeing if it could potentially be easier to combat my issue. and doing a small run actually works out cheaper to buy the ready made Dry amendments ,if i see it has potential i of coarse would look to Either Buying better Dry amendments Like Botanicare Growilla Or one of the Soil recipes on here and wanted to use the RO water for this grow . should i just bubble some tap water off instead ?given its not going to have much MG as stated above, i've since bought a large Britta water filter Would using this be better? Apologies for length of topic i thought it was important to tell you as much as i could in the hope of getting a better solution. hopefully i've just fried my mind writing this and not yours Thanks for reading Barry
  15. Hello all, I'm about to embark on my 2nd grow with autos. With my first grow I popped the seeds straight into their final pots and all worked well. The soil was dry and I watered around the seed/seedling as they developed. My gut feeling this time is to do the wet/dry cycle from the kick off i.e. thoroughly water the soil in the pots until it runs off, leave for a few hours then pop the seed in just below the surface. As I see the surface soil dry I will lightly water the area. I plan on doing this to ensure there us enough moisture in the soil as the roots bury their way down. Last time the majority of the soil was bone dry in the early days apart from where I watered around the seedlings. What do you think?
  16. Hey all new to the forum do not want to get in trouble for double posting but I think I just posted my help question in the wrong topic, As topic says a generic question about water; original thread is here: http://www.uk420.com/boards/index.php?showtopic=360067 If your an op or admin could you move my other thread if its in the wrong place cheers -- Mojo
  17. I have been using a battery powered PH reader to measure the PH of the water and adjust it accordingly. I was using much more PH down than i thought i would have needed in order to get the PH to the desired reading so i tested the PH of the water using a manual colour coded kit (liquid droplet tester). I then realised that my PH reader must have a fault and that i must have been watering my plants with a PH of around 4 from the start up of growth up until the end of week 2 of flowering. Fortunately the plants have been growing well and look green and healthy. Does anybody know of any consequences i my face because of this, or any consequences that i should have already come across? Thanks.
  18. Hi. My question is that if somebody use CFL Dual Spec (6400K/2700K) than what king of seed would the best? I mean autos need 20/4 hours of lightning and with a dual spec bulb i dont have to change the Kelvin specialized bulb (6400veg/2700flow) and dont have to worry that the plant doesnt start to flowering. But somebody say that dual cfls works great with feminised seeds too, just switch time in right way. What type of seed would you recommend for a 250w Dual Spec CFl + E40 reflector? (+4x40w cheap E27 cfl from wallmart or etc.)
  19. So following up on my previous post, another question came to mind which I keep seeing come up from time to time: Water Temperature Some say that you can feed straight from the cold tap, others say to use hot water, others say to use cold but let it sit until it's room temperature. Personally I've been using straight cold water + nutrients without any noticeable problems (minus the slight Ca deficiency which I outlined in the previous post) So my question being; does the water temperature make any difference to the girls? Cheers.
  20. Hey guys just a quickie. Got home last night and the water was off, the water board were carrying out repairs at a house 2 streets below me. To cut a long story short, i dont drink tea or coffee(cant stand the stuff), very rarely drink soft drinks(they get sickly sweet real quick to me) so apart from alcoholic drinks, water is my drink of choice. Anyway like i said the water was off when we got in. After it came back on i noticed that it was extremely cloudy even after running the tap for about 10 mins straight, which prompted me to get my meters and test it. It came out as follows, EC was 0.0, but PH was 8.4. Would having to add more PH down than usual to correct this cause undue stress to the plants in my NFT system?????? Cheers for looking. Freax