Welcome to UK420

Register now to gain access to all of our features. Once registered and logged in, you will be able to contribute to this site by submitting your own content or replying to existing content. You'll be able to customize your profile, receive reputation points as a reward for submitting content, while also communicating with other members via your own private inbox, plus much more!

This message will be removed once you have signed in.

Search the Community: Showing results for tags 'soil mix'.

More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • Welcome to UK420
    • New Members
    • Announcements
  • Cultivation
    • Strain Base
    • Breeders Help Desks
    • Compost and Pots
    • Hydroponics
    • Outdoor Growing
    • Propagation, Cloning and Mother Plants
    • Auto Flowering
    • Growroom Design
    • Problem Solver
    • Harvesting and Processing
    • Grow Diaries
    • Cream Of The Crop
  • Cannabis Culture
    • News, Views and Politics
    • Medicinal Cannabis
    • Smokers Lounge
    • Uk420 Competitions
  • Sponsor Support
    • One Tree Horticulture
    • Vapefiend - The Vaporizer Specialists


  • Community Calendar

Found 4 results

  1. Has anyone ever thought about/used kapok in soil mixes? Just been revisiting wool as a soil amendment and thought about this too.
  2. Hey all, Huge problem, I've not even planted in the soil and my runoff ppm (should I be measuring runoff anyway?) is ridiculous... about 2400ppm. The PH is also around 7. I've used a mix of bioterra plus soil, biobizz light mix, perlite, an innoculant, kelp meal, EWC and a half to quarter dose of the following: maxicrop seaweed extract, GH nectar (humic acid) and literally one or two drops of bio silicon. None of the things I've added should cause the kind of readings I'm seeing surely? I know the bioterra soil is pretty heavy to begin with but it's probably less than half bioterra. The meters I'm using are pancellent... easily found online. They seem to be accurate on my tap water so I can only assume they're accurate on the runoff. So anyone have any ideas what I've done? Alternatively, I have a little cabinet of materials which I can use to completely restart the soil: EWC Bioterra plus Biobizz lightmix Kelpmeal Rootgrow innoculant Perlite Guano I've got a pretty extensive compost brewing kit so I'm intending on only using the biocanna line lightly. Any thoughts or tips would be greatly appreciated.
  3. Hi guys. Hope you're all good... Wanted to hit the forum today with some organics-related questions. Any guidance anyone can offer will be highly valued and appreciated. I've recently been pretty taken in by the latest wave of 'SuperSoil' hysteria, and always wanting to push results as far as can be achieved, I've decided I want to go back to basics and try an 'organic' mix, which depending on my calculations being correct, may or may not need to be fed with Guano Tea or whatever, an eventuality that I'm cool with; we'll let the plants tell us what they require and when... The reason I say 'organic' in quotations is because I'm told that 'supersoil', and in particular Subcool's mix are not entirely organic as such, and also aren't sustainable therefore not organic as most vegan folks, which I am not, would define them. Also before anyone says it; I know the whole idea of supersoil is to be able to just add water etc. blah blah blah BLAH BLAH (and that's nothing short of fucking awesome, Subcool is the man, but it's just not an absolute requirement for my situation, and I can supplement with EWC / Guano Tea should the need arise). And when I use the word organics in this post it is more the general sense of getting back to basics I'm talking about, not true and pure vegan full-on-ness. The layering of the soil is certainly something I can prescribe to, although many people say it's better to make a homogenous mix and just cut the super with more bag soil when vegging in the smaller pots. I will be layering mine I reckon. I already achieve strong results with my inorganic liquid nute regimen(can get some photos up should someone be keen for a look), but just want to take it the extra mile in terms of the finer points, not just yield and cannabinoid content, both of which are always good at worst and excellent at best. After seeing some supersoil and TLO results over the last few years I'm taking the plunge and I've gone out on the town in sunny Switzerland where I live at the moment and purloined the following: Plagron Bio-Supermix (1.2-1.6-0.35)... Contains feather meal, bone meal, Peruvian and Indo Guanos, Rock Phosphate, Maerl, Bentonite, Basalt, Kelp Meal, Lava Meal, Bacteria and Fungal. (Don't say it please; I already feel dirty using a large-company pre-mix, but some of these ingredients are SO damn hard to come by where I'm at, and the cost of transporting loads of single bags internationally, I just couldn't bring myself to do it) Plagron Bat Guano (3-15-4)... Stimulates bio-life. Will be replaced with Guano Kalong for the purposes of any compost tea later on. Plagron Mega Worm EWC... (100% castings from Dendrobena Veneta) Rich in bio-life and stimulates more of it. Oekohum Bio Univeral Earth... Contains no peat, humus from greengoods and bark, coconut fibre, wood fibre, pumice with bio-fert from horn and semolina. pH of substrate 6.3,range 5.9-6.7; EC 1.9-2.0, 20% organic substances Peltracom 307 Professional Substrate... VERY EXPENSIVE pH stabilized pure peat and perlite mix. EC 0.0 pH 6.0 Oekohum Cacao Gold (2.7-0.7-3 with 0.4 Mg)... A pure cacao shell mulch of sorts with much heavier mid-size chips and flakes of cacao shell (allegedly a waste product from the chocolate industry) Oekohum Bio Nutritional Humus (0.5-0.25-0.35 with 0.15 Mg) Rich in bio-life. Hauert Biorga Composted Manure(0.6-0.3-0.6min through 0.9-0.5-0.9max) 10-15% organic substance from cows and horses, 5-10% from plants. Rich in bio-life. Perlite Hydroleca / expanded clay. Will be smashed up to make smaller aeration chunks I also had lying around the house from my other grows some AN Voodoo Juice and Piranha liquids which so long as they'd be alright to use as liquids in my mix (help, someone please let me know if they shouldn't be added to the soil pre-cook) as I imagine they would be. I won't be adding much Piranha till the plants go in as I'm told Myco dies if there is no root host present within 24 hours, but Tricho does still bind without roots so we'll whack a little in 'fore she cooks; can't hurt... Again if any of this information strikes you as inaccurate please correct me. I'm never too old to learn something new and your advice will be greatly appreciated and taken on-board. So really my question for the organics champions out there is how much of what? Anything else you'd go for? I am formulating enough to make about 400 liters of the cooked stuff, and will have some left or obtain more of the base mix to layer with... I am also working on my mix in the meantime on paper and comparing, researching etc so I will post my thoughts soon as I have something put together a little better, just wanted to get this post up so I could have some replies and thoughts coming in while I went to work on it. I have about 27 days or so till I will need the mix so really need to get on it to have decent cooking time. To a large degree Subcool's mix is the Gold Standard that is widely accepted by those that don't grow organic and don't know but is not so widely and entirely accepted by aficionados of organics in general and I'd love to know why to be honest. I feel the results speak for themselves, obviously, but Sub's mix strikes me as a tad high in nitrogen as I'll only be blooming with this mix with maybe just one week of veg to get the girls settled in when they are potted-up to their final homes. Has anyone else thought this over? Also obviously the 1/3 to 1/2 layering tech that Sub speaks of is in relation to a minimum 7 gallon (approx 26 liter) pot, but he's growing large beasts and few of them whilst I grow more manageable beasts and more of them currently with my inorganic liquids and light-mix combo in smaller 14 liter pots that can actually be filled extra high to incorporate about 15.5 liters. Will I need to adapt my style to fewer, larger plants to take advantage of Subskie's methods? Or will these third to a half full pot measurements be needing upscaling due to the smaller size pots? Jesus christ, that was a long post... Sorry if I killed you with boredom reading all of it but there's just so many questions and as you guys know very well by now I'm sure, the world is full of so called 'expert of everything and master of nothing' fuckhead stoner wannabes that throw about regurgitated, outdated, and often just plain wrong information in the name of appearing knowledgeable among their friends. So I thought the internet and in particular UK420 Forums might have the answers without the bullshit. Everything and anything you've got to say on the matter please guys, please you Americans out there, we love your help, but please save the blah blah about FFOF and Roots etc, you can't get it in Europe. The soil I have is plenty quality( CERTAINLY in line with top end Plagron mixes and actually better I'd have thought); it's more the 'hotness' of the final mixed product that concerns me, so really the advice I'm after is for the proportions of nutrition related stuff mostly. And yes I am sure this topic has been heavily discussed here before and I've read most of the supersoil threads around the net without asking questions and of course if you don't use an identical mix there's gonna be questions, along with the fact that I'm not hardline to using Subcool's approach; if anyone has any other ideas I'd love to hear about it. My apologies to the mods if this post should be somewhere else and thanks again enlightened posters of the UK420 forums, it's sites like this and people such as yourself who make wading through the bullshit possible. Cheers and Peace Keep It Rolling Chaps Timmy
  4. Good Day people. I have a question. I have these components and 5 Blueberry Auto's ready to be potted on to 10ltr pots. The components are intended for a large no-till super soil I'll mix up for my next crop. That's once I source some good compost. I want to design a fast soil mix which won't hurt these plants. Plant Magic soil supreme - Not intedned for super soil, Compost - Need to source a quality local compost Bucket of Worms Wormcast Peat Moss - Yet to get but readily available Bone Meal Blood Meal Dolomite Gypsum Rock Phosphate TNC MycorrEndo -Endomycorrhizal Innoculant Chase Seaweed Meal (Kelp) Alfalfa Meal Maxicrop Extract of Seaweed PLus Complete Garden feed (Not yet sure if this is organic) Plus lot's of Comfrey growing in my garden Of course im impatient and sitting on all this lovely stuff is hard. I'm concerned various ammendments would be toxic if not cooked. A simple mix or complicated with or without the need for an organic bottled liquid fertilzer to keep things afloat is what i'm shooting for. Any idea's or good threads? I've had a bit of a nightmare trying to collate all the information i've read on the various components I have in order to formulate a mix which I'm confident nothing has been overlooked. Hence why I am now here asking for advise