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Found 22 results

  1. Hello my fellow stoners, how are we today? Good, im glad to hear it! Well im back with another diary. Dinafem Mark very kindly gave me some seeds to grow out earlier in the year (purps#1 and purps moby dick). Due to my own stupidity and a cheap shite EC pen, I ended up pulling them in a rage. I had a few seeds left which I planted, but also had to pull, due to a security scare, and the fact that my set up wasn't set up all that well. So I decided to do it properly, and start from scratch. First I built a big fuck off room to house my new prisoners/victims plants er plants. Because I had previously promised Mark I would do a diary, I felt that I had unfinished business with the mobys, so went out and spent my own cash on a replacement purple moby beans......I know...…..the extravagance, but needs must. While I was at that I also decided to run some of my old favourite Super lemon hazes (I will try not to include them in this diary, but ive got to show you something later on …...no …..not that.....some plants.) So to my set up. Room is approx. 2.4 metres wide by 4.2 m long, ceilings are 2.4 high For these I will be using my newly constructed RDWC system, built from 60 litre totes, 40mm returns and 22mm top spray bars Its all run from a hailea HX 8840, which, to be perfectly honest is a bit on the small side, but it was cheap. Ive supplemented this poxy pump with a hailea airpump, with 1 stone per pot. The air stones aren't really needed, but I thought it would get them going in early veg. Ive ordered a chiller, as the temps are too high in the rdwc, its getting delivered today. Mobys on the left, not so super lemons on the right, its chalk and cheese. for the super lemons they are in 4x mega bubblers (60litre) , with 2 stones per pot run off a hailea 60l/min pump Ive got 4x lumii digita 600w dimmable ballasts with adjustawing shades, run off a timer box. RVK 8 inch A1 intake, 2x 12 inch RVK outtakes, both controlled from variac controllers. one runs at a pre set 50%, the other ramps up and down according to temps. Humidifier and dehumidifier when needed 2 oscillating fans Ionic nutrients, bluelab truncheon and ph meter, ph down all the usual shit, you know. Anyway the seeds were cracked, all the dinafem stuff cracked and were transplanted in to root it cubes, and into the propo with a scoosh every morning and night to keep them alive. they were in here for a week,The Dinafem stuff got out of the cubes in a day and started to reach for the lights, great stuff. while I tried to get the greenhouse seeds super crap lemons to germ. I eventually managed to get 5 of them, out of a 10 pack of seeds , to crack. one went into the cube and refused to do anything, at all. They eventually broke the surface, by the time the Mobys were needing into the net pots. I held them back a week till the not so super lemons tried to catch up. I eventually decided to get them into the room, after trying it out for a day or two to check temps etc. Temps were too high with the lights at 600, so ive had to turn them down to 400 till my air cooled hoods arrive (and yes, I know air cooled hoods are generally crap, but needs must. At 400w the fans are sitting on idle, which is great for outside noise, and the way I want to keep it. SO they have now been in the room for 10 days, and ive just topped the mobys at 4 nodes, so they will probably take a few days to recover before going for it again.. So far they look great, apart from a little fan burn, and are very consistant in size and development. As for the Not so super lemons, well, have a look, they are all different sizes, with 2 underdeveloped runts, which I will give another week or so, and if they don't start growing properly, they will be seeing the compost bin. neeedless to say, I should have gone with the quick Kush instead of these bloody things, but hopefully 2 of them will provide some decent smoke. I wont be doing them again tho, im fairly sure of that, just look at them, they look pathetic compared to the mobys. Enough of my drivel, heres some pics, of the mobys, they look pretty much identical pheno wise, so far, which is nice. These are in flood and drain net pots, big 10 inch jobs, with a nice flat rim, so they wont topple when they get big, which should help. And the not so super lemons, looking all over the place. the 2nd and 3rd ones looks decidedly ill to me. oh well, too late to start more, i'll just put up with it. these are in 200mm nets so they are at least 1/3rd smaller than the mobys. Currently being fed at 0.5ec, ph is 5.7 Last week they were started at 0.4ec, ph 5.8. So let the journey begin...………………………... And the award for the longest opening post goes to...……..me.
  2. It is time to capture some gorilla ladies and let them frolic in the water garden of zen. I can run some regulars and find mums at the same time but boredom has got the better of me and I am itching to get going again. Let the hunt begin.....tranquilliser is ready......Gun loaded.....lets go
  3. Hello all, Just a super basic RDWC build guide here, with some DWC grow principals thrown in to help those starting out DWC does not need to be intimidating, we just need to understand the differences between it and other growing methodologies.... Soil VS DWC - soil is more forgiving - pro soil is slower in all senses (growth rate, time between something going wrong in the soil and the plant showing symptoms - con soil is better for taste - only true of REAL organics, and even then the difference is marginal soil produces far less for the same amount of time spent - con soil is far less water and nutrient efficient - con soil when saturated holds minute amounts of O2 - con Coco is marginally better than soil - 30% aerated when saturated, but cal to mag cation exchange rates differ greatly bag to bag, so sod that. NFT is superior for dissolved oxygen content, but the systems are easy to clog, plants fall over easily, and the good systems have tanks that are just too long to move conspicuously. Aero is aggressive, but hard to keep stable and regulate root zone temps - one for the meticulous only.... dripper systems are basic and a bit dull, but they work - generally you lose more ceiling height to them too. DWC is the simplest, and arguably the best hydro system out there - more oxygen, better availability of nutrients, superior growth rates, massive yields - unforgiving as all mighty hell's bandits. If your air pump fails, you fucked. water temps too high or water quality bad? say hello to instant pythium. it seems scary, but we can minimise the risks by using beneficial bacterial innoculants, water chillers, and powerful air pumps. Please feel free to debate any of my points above by the way - just my opinion, no fact in sight
  4. Hello, my fellow herb enthusiasts, I have decided to put up a short build guide for people considering RDWC. Now I have pictured 2 of my previous system builds, but unfortunately, the pigs stole them so I'm a bit limited in showing actual photos of various parts of the build. I have built quite a few of these over the years, each one has been a learning process, and not without disaster along the way, as u do. The systems shown will fit in a 2.4 by 1.2 tent (the 4 pot one) or a 1.2 tent (the 2 pot one) These are NOT undercurrent systems, they are simple recirculating systems, utilising 22mm spray bars for the delivery and 40mm returns to the res. I have located the res outside of the tent in both systems, because this helps keep the temperature of the nutrients cooler, and reduces the work for the chiller (i'll come to that later) So the system works by the process of pumping nutrient around the system, through the spray bars. This nutrient solution is highly oxygenated, with high levels of dissolved oxygen produced by the falling water disturbing the surface tension (which creates DO(dissolved oxygen). Now I'm not saying that this system is perfect or cant be improved upon, because nothing is perfect is it, its all a compromise in some way or other, before you all start slagging it off and telling me how I should have done this or that or whatever. I'm not really interested, ok? good.......... then we shall proceed Lets start with a list of stuff you will need to complete this build (2 pot system) The pictures are meant as a guide only as some of the stuff I describe is what I would do differently if I was to do it again 3No. really useful boxes (2 for the plants , one for the res) either 64 or 84 litre jobs (the more nutrient you have the more stable the EC and Ph will remain). this is why I use big boxes A hole cutter for 22mm and 40mm pipework. A number of 40 mm tank connectors (6 in this case), plus 40mm pipework, bends and tees to suit. I use solvent weld fittings, which do not leak if done properly, unlike the push fit ones. The solvent weld fittings are also cheaper woop woop. the down side is that if you ever want to move the system or dismantle it, you will need a hacksaw lol. A number of 22mm pipework fittings including bends, tees and pipework. I am not stating how many of each you use because it will depend on how you lay it out. I'm sure you are capable of working this part out for yourselves A water pump _ I would recommend a 4000l/hr one for this size system, the 4 pot system I used a 6000l/hr one, but should have gone bigger. A reducer from the water pump outlet to the 22mm spray bar. These can be bought off ebay as silicone reducers , just pump in the sizes, e.g 22mm to 26mmm or whatever it is. Stainless hose clamps to suit this reducer, both ends. various drill bits, a drill, A chiller- will depend on the total capacity of your system, for a 2 pot system I reckon you would be ok with a 150l chiller, I used a 300l one on the 4 pot system Maxijet 1000l/hr pump and hose to suit the chiller. Right, now to the construction part. we will start with the returns. these are 40mm, which are a decent compromise, you can go bigger (but they are expensive) or smaller (more likely to block with roots etc) So take your really useful boxes and lay them in the tent where you want them to go, this is how I did it As you can see the totes are side by side with the return pipes at the front and back of each box. Its always a good idea to set things out to make sure there is enough room for like lids to fit on (ahem), and all the pipework to fit etc. Now once you know where its all going measure out your pipes, notiing where each one goes. I lay them out on the floor the way they will go in the tent, makes life a little easier. The return pipes are attached to the box via the 40mm tank connector, which is solvent welded to the pipe When you drill the hole for the tank connector/ bulkhead, you want to try and get it very close to the bottom of the box,, BUT make sure you still have room to screw on the nut. When you get the tank connectors you will see a rubber washer type thing - this goes to the outside of the box ok? A word on solvent cement- you can get high as fuck off it so use in a well ventilated area (that's the health and safety pish out the way) Also, when using solvent cement, this is what I do to prevent bailing water out of the tent/ leaks . Saw cut the end of the pipe, then sand off the rough end where all the scrappy bits are, and a small chamfer on the end of the pipe. (Use 100 grit sandpaper or above) Make sure nothing is sticking out from the pipe, like rough edges etc Put the solvent cement on the end of the pipe, AND on the inside of the fitting it is getting connected to. Now stick em together, you don't get long. When I join them together I kinda push the pipe in and give it a 1/4 turn at the same time. wipe off the excess glue (don't put it back in the glue pot) Leave this for 15 minutes and it will be solid. So glue all the returns together, putting it in the box, measuring trimming etc as you go, to be sure it will all FIT properly. No point glueing it all together then finding out your 10mm out on a measurement has fucked half of it up is there. The returns are at opposite sides of the really useful box to equalise the return flow, so that the roots stay in the centre of the box. If both returns were at the same side of the box, the roots WILL migrate there and clog the returns. In the picture above you will see just below the spray bar Tee, the return pipes go to a tee fitting and then back to the res. If I was to do it again I would have 2 returns to the res, just in case the one was to block with root (unlikely tho it may be). The picture above also shows the spray bars, the 22mm pipe inside the box which delivers the nutrients to the tote. Drill the holes for these as high up the sides of the box as possible, you want as much fall from the water as possible. This one is drilled just below the top lip. These are done in a similar fashion to the returns, but it is easier to drill the holes for the nutrient to spray from before you glue the lot together. I use a small drill bit for the holes, and for this system, if I remember I had something like 4 holes on each long side and 2 on the short sides. I had these holes drilled in such a way to spray the water around the base of the net pot, about an inch or 2 away from the actual pot itself, but its not really critical where the holes go, as long as the water can splash on the surface, creating DO. The spray bars go to a TEE which goes to a single pipe from the water pump. A word of advice - the pump outlet has a reducer attached, and then it goes to the 22mm pipe. You will see that this pipe goes through the side of the res. there is a reason for this, which is - if somehow the pipe detaches from the reducer, it will not go flying out of the way allowing the fountain from the res to flood the room, as the side hole will keep the pipe in place. See pic below. Again if I was doing this again I would have the pump closer to the tent side of the box. this pic also shows the reserviour, outside the tent. You can see the single return at the bottom of the box. The red thing on top of the pump is the reducer Like a said, id do a double return next time, but you get the idea. If you look at the pic above, then this one, its like, inside the tent- outside the tent Here is my 4 pot system in action with spraybars (the spray bars are a different design, but the principle is the same). On the subject of dissolved oxygen, you can also add an airstone or 2 to this system. You don't really NEED to, but they help by creating yet more oxygen to the rootzone, like I did in the above system. so that's the spray bars and returns done, you are nearly there. For the net pots you need to make some holes in the lids. I use 200mm net pots, and to make the hole I devised a cunning plan, baldrick would be proud of. here is how its done. Mark the centre of the box lid, drill very small pilot hole, then get a piece of timber, and put a drywall screw through one end, so the tip of the screw ids protruding by about 3-5mm. then measure out 95mm and put another screw through the same amount. Put one screw in the pilot hole you drilled, and then turn the wood through 360 degrees scoring a perfect circle into the plastic. Then you just keep on scoring round and round till you eventually go through the lid , or it gets so thin you can cut it with a Stanley. Also when this is done insulate the boxes if possible, ive used Kingspan in the top pics, or even the silver reflective bubble wrap stuff for the lids is better than nothing, DO it. chillers - you WILL need one Chillers have a separate pump- a maxijet 1000l/hr job from the res to the chiller, and the warer will naturally return from the chiller to the res, , if you can try and get the return to make the water fall back to the res - more DO - you know it makes sense. Pop in your net pot, fill with hydroton and grow big fuck of trees. My first run in the 2 pot system produced 700grams from two (whisper it ) autos Mission accomplished. If I think of anything else I will add it. Mon the water
  5. Hey guys. I'm back with another HSO diary! After loving the Sapphire OG's so much from my last run - with BOTH phenos coming out cracking, I decided they deserved the RDWC all to themselves for another run. This time they're getting the SCROG net all to themselves. I've upgraded my tent from 1.2mx1.2mx2m to 2mx2mx2m. The difference is massive. I have an 8inch vortex fan and carbon filter (variable), with a 5inch fan for the cooltubes and lots of passive intake holes. Plenty of fans for air movement and plenty of light. Thanks again to @HSO-Mark for providing me with these awesome seeds (amongst some others). Lots more diaries from me to come! Nutrients being used (at various stages). Never used PK boosters before, going to take it easy with them and introduce to my res for a week or two, from about week three post 12-12. This is the SCROG net I'll be using. The string you see on it in this picture is NOT the string on it currently. I've upgraded to some mason line. So off I was! Only problem is... when I originally took the seeds out of their lovely wooden block for my first run, I ended up mixing up the vials and not knowing which strain was which. As I had 3 seeds left of each strain, my only option really was to pop two of each, let them grow a little in the bubblers, then use my eye and experience from last grow to identify the strains and remove the Green Cracks from the system. Don't get me wrong, I loved the Green Cracks, but I loved the Sapphire OG's much more! I'd planned to transplant the GC's from the RDWC system into soil as soon as I was able to differentiate between them with certainty. Here's a photo from just after I'd transplanted the Green Cracks into soil. They're the ones sitting in the slightly larger pots on top of the buckets, far left and bottom right (not the fabric pots). They didn't like the transplant too much, and sulked around doing nothing but looking hungry for about a week or so. They soon recovered in time, with a little TLC. Thankfully they had a good head start in the RDWC, so they've ended up at least as large as the other soil plants. Here they are in larger pots, about a week before the flip... So now the Sapphire OG's have the large RDWC to themselves, they can spread their legs a bit and crack on! IIRC this photo is about a week into the flip. Flipped on 28th May. I vegged the lot under a 600W MH conversion bulb, added a second for the first week of flower, then swapped the bulbs out for 2 600W x Omega Super HPS's, and added the MH back into the centre as a third light. Here's my lighting... Did a bit of tweaking with the ducting, trying to shorten the distance that the hot air is travelling. As you can see I've swapped my MH conversions in the cooltubes for the Super HPS, and added a MH back in, onto the cheap winged reflector. Here's the current canopy....coming along nicely - although it's been hard to train this time as the shape I'm working with is coming from a line of two plants, rather than a nice sqaure of four plants. Not much more training left before they stop stretching. These aren't big stretchers at all, so I've still ended up with quite the bush rather than flat canopy. We'll get there, but I'm debating how much to strip from the underneath. I'd appreciate some advice from anyone experienced in these things. Here are my current ambient and res temps. I snapped a top branch from one of the Sapphire OG's while I was training it, so decided to see if I could save it as a cut. Three weeks later she's showing some nice roots. Thanks for stopping by, until next time! SVS
  6. First of all, big thanks to HSO Mark (sorry won't let me tag) for providing me with these awesome seeds. I've never grow anything from HSO, so I'm excited to experience their genetics. I've heard great things about the Blue Dream, but after spending some time reading up on and drooling over a few of their strains, I decided to go with these interesting sounding ladies. Arrived in the post on Wednesday. So into the rapid rooters they go! I'm going to be growing them in my 4 bucket (with 5th control) RDWC, under a dimmable 600w hps, in a 1.2mx1.2m tent, with scrog. For now they're staying in their dome in a warm cupboard until I see those first signs of life. Wish me luck guys!
  7. hi people thanks for the mebership im new to forums etc but thought bout time to give something back to the comunity have bin growing for bout 10 years mainly soil and coco but last 2 years in rdwc had my fuck ups but seem to have it nailed now got a little bok full of disaters and how i mannaged to recover from them hit me up if your having isues and ill see if i can help
  8. I read on here about dropping frozen bottles of water into the control tank/brain to keep reservoir temps down in the summer so the nutes don't get too hot, and after seeing a nice temp controller for a good price I had a brain wave. The idea is having an insulated box with bottles of frozen water in it, I think the 5 litre square bottles might work better and last longer before thawing. There will be a pump in the reservoir with some tube attached that will exit the reservoir and into the inslated tub with the frozen bottles of water and the tube will basically coil around the bottles and continue out and back into the system. When the res gets too warm the controller will switch the pump on and the solution will go round the frozen water bottles cooling it as it goes around, dropping the temp to whatever is set on the controller, then switch off. Has anybody done this?
  9. here is a pic or two of a couple of systems im workin with just now. First up is my home brewed RDWC which is made from 2 84 litre really useful boxes, and has a waterfall supply from the 2 Y pieces. I have updated it a bit by puntin in a couple of airstones, and a couple of dead ends on the end of the Y which were then drilled to effect a wider spray pattern, and more dissolved oxyjen. Its fed by a 3500l/hr pump, via reducers to 19mm pipe, and the returns are made up from B&Q tank connectors and push fit pipe. Heres my latest system below. It is 5 84 litre totes, which will have 2 net pots per tote, and the spray bars instead of waterfalls, just to see which is best for me. the nets will sit between the spray bars, and i wil, have the option of removin the middle spray bar if i decide to do more trees. It is fed by 2 No 5000l/hr pumps and uses the 40mm tank connectors and push fit, and will not have airstones. the pipes to the LHS are the returns and it is not quite finished yet, im waitin for another pump and some rubber jrommets for the pipe holes to keep lite out of the res. Let me know what you think.
  10. Hi stoners, im currently experimentin with a new RDWC system which i have built, and it appears to work quite well, if i say so myself Here it is Basically 2 84 litre totes, with 2 200mm net pots, and the water is fed from the res at the bottom of the pic via a 3500l/hr pump. It uses waterfalls from the Y pieces, which have since been updated to includt spray nozzles on the end, for more DO. Anyway they were a wee bit slow to start, so i punted in a couple of airstones, and they are fair takin off. Here we are at 2 and a half weeks. you can see abit of leaf curl which was caused by me havin the ph too hi for a few days, doh!! they are on 0.5 EC and phn is 5.6-5.8.. I had it too hi for a start, with an ec of 0.6, but in this system you really want to keep it low. I will be removin the airstones from the system in a week or 2, once they are established. This foto was taken 2 days past, and she has expanded since then. Quality stuff the Dinafem, cant wait to see them explode. Nutes are IOnic basic jrow and bloom and PK, with a little superthrive and fulvic. Its all you need. Cheers
  11. rdwc In Veg

    From the album pot noodle grow comp

  12. rdwc In veg.

    From the album pot noodle grow comp

  13. rdwc In veg..

    From the album pot noodle grow comp

  14. rdwc In veg...

    From the album pot noodle grow comp

  15. rdwc In veg....

    From the album pot noodle grow comp

  16. rdwc In veg.....

    From the album pot noodle grow comp

  17. Pot noodle RDWC

    From the album pot noodle grow comp

    just a diagram of how I made my RDWC for the pot noodle grow competition!
  18. IMG 3646n

    From the album RDWC

    DIY made RDWC alien copy
  19. Image00006a

    From the album NLx5 scrogged topped under LED in RDWC

    RDWC first fire up
  20. 08 August

    From the album Old stuff

    My last plant.. grown using a one plant RDWC system, under a Gavita Pro and a 300 watt led in a 1.2m tent Yield 1026 grams
  21. rdwc design - 4 Pot system

    From the album Old stuff

    a 4 pot RDWC design.. air stones not needed