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Found 6 results

  1. We are happy to announce we are an authorised stockist for Ecothrive. We have the full of range of amendments and micros aswell as the Ecolife soil, (coco is coming) The lads modeling the new gear Full range. CHARGE avalible in 1L 5L and 10L https://diyleduk.com/collections/ecothrive/products/eco-thrive-charge?variant=27604690993252 Biosys. Avalible in 10g 50g 250g https://diyleduk.com/products/eco-thrive-biosys?variant=27604614643812 Lifecycle. Avalible in 250g 1KG 5KG https://diyleduk.com/products/life-cycle-organic-amendment?variant=27604818591844 Neautralise Avalible in 50ml 250ml https://diyleduk.com/collections/soil-and-amendments/products/ecothrive-neutralise-declorinator?variant=29423432499283 These guys are ten mins away and excellent to deal with. so it won't ever go out of stock. The smaller packs will go out as freebies with orders. and you get 5% OFF WHEN YOU PAY BANK TRANSFER OF CASH. USWE CODE "CASH"
  2. Disco biscuits #3

    From the album a HEMPFRUIT ugorg pics

    © Disco biscuit#3

  3. Hey guys, this is my auto grow (perpetual) experimenting with something i came across on sinistergram ........ bio char I bought about 30 seeds over the past 2 months and just planting them with a few weeks in between 10 at a time. I'm mixing coco, biochar and worm castings for a 'soil like environment' with a coco way to grow, the biochar houses the bacteria and pulls in food, really don't know what am talking about but i'v done some youtube research n shit, i think biochar is ph up in large amounts so i've just been adding a good handful per pot and inoculating with the worm tea. I bought this drunk (img below) and it said npk 2-5-6, realized it wasn't but it's all good, this stuff is packed with micros, the N is bat shit which is unknowingly good for flower said an oldtimer once, i didn't disagree after testing, Liquid seaweed all good for denser buds with natural pgs. Anyways, my phones lost atm amma get a new one and upload some auto pics in the few days or so. Seeds -- little kushy, ak-47, ak-48, ak-49, ak-420, ak-someonesmom, and some others i forget easy :/ Lights -- 2 400w hps, 1 600w hps, and 2 mars 300w leds that i add as and when, just hang over one plant with the shit footprint. Food -- as above but with added chicken shit pellets (not much), dextrose, and some other shit Grow room -- bedroom size 20-30 plants atm, could get more at a push Trim gets turned into hash n oil (learning but doing all good!) god bless sonnyB
  4. Organics - To Flush Or Not To Flush? that is the question,vote above and thoughts and comments below please im debating whether or not to flush(water+molasses) for 2-3 weeks before harvest to maximise taste and cleanliness of the buds,i know its said not to be needed but i still see some doing it regardless so i wanted to get an idea of the general consensus on flushing organics,would be much appreciated and might be good for future reference especially for beginners like myself. H4rdc0r3.
  5. Hi guys. Hope you're all good... Wanted to hit the forum today with some organics-related questions. Any guidance anyone can offer will be highly valued and appreciated. I've recently been pretty taken in by the latest wave of 'SuperSoil' hysteria, and always wanting to push results as far as can be achieved, I've decided I want to go back to basics and try an 'organic' mix, which depending on my calculations being correct, may or may not need to be fed with Guano Tea or whatever, an eventuality that I'm cool with; we'll let the plants tell us what they require and when... The reason I say 'organic' in quotations is because I'm told that 'supersoil', and in particular Subcool's mix are not entirely organic as such, and also aren't sustainable therefore not organic as most vegan folks, which I am not, would define them. Also before anyone says it; I know the whole idea of supersoil is to be able to just add water etc. blah blah blah BLAH BLAH (and that's nothing short of fucking awesome, Subcool is the man, but it's just not an absolute requirement for my situation, and I can supplement with EWC / Guano Tea should the need arise). And when I use the word organics in this post it is more the general sense of getting back to basics I'm talking about, not true and pure vegan full-on-ness. The layering of the soil is certainly something I can prescribe to, although many people say it's better to make a homogenous mix and just cut the super with more bag soil when vegging in the smaller pots. I will be layering mine I reckon. I already achieve strong results with my inorganic liquid nute regimen(can get some photos up should someone be keen for a look), but just want to take it the extra mile in terms of the finer points, not just yield and cannabinoid content, both of which are always good at worst and excellent at best. After seeing some supersoil and TLO results over the last few years I'm taking the plunge and I've gone out on the town in sunny Switzerland where I live at the moment and purloined the following: Plagron Bio-Supermix (1.2-1.6-0.35)... Contains feather meal, bone meal, Peruvian and Indo Guanos, Rock Phosphate, Maerl, Bentonite, Basalt, Kelp Meal, Lava Meal, Bacteria and Fungal. (Don't say it please; I already feel dirty using a large-company pre-mix, but some of these ingredients are SO damn hard to come by where I'm at, and the cost of transporting loads of single bags internationally, I just couldn't bring myself to do it) Plagron Bat Guano (3-15-4)... Stimulates bio-life. Will be replaced with Guano Kalong for the purposes of any compost tea later on. Plagron Mega Worm EWC... (100% castings from Dendrobena Veneta) Rich in bio-life and stimulates more of it. Oekohum Bio Univeral Earth... Contains no peat, humus from greengoods and bark, coconut fibre, wood fibre, pumice with bio-fert from horn and semolina. pH of substrate 6.3,range 5.9-6.7; EC 1.9-2.0, 20% organic substances Peltracom 307 Professional Substrate... VERY EXPENSIVE pH stabilized pure peat and perlite mix. EC 0.0 pH 6.0 Oekohum Cacao Gold (2.7-0.7-3 with 0.4 Mg)... A pure cacao shell mulch of sorts with much heavier mid-size chips and flakes of cacao shell (allegedly a waste product from the chocolate industry) Oekohum Bio Nutritional Humus (0.5-0.25-0.35 with 0.15 Mg) Rich in bio-life. Hauert Biorga Composted Manure(0.6-0.3-0.6min through 0.9-0.5-0.9max) 10-15% organic substance from cows and horses, 5-10% from plants. Rich in bio-life. Perlite Hydroleca / expanded clay. Will be smashed up to make smaller aeration chunks I also had lying around the house from my other grows some AN Voodoo Juice and Piranha liquids which so long as they'd be alright to use as liquids in my mix (help, someone please let me know if they shouldn't be added to the soil pre-cook) as I imagine they would be. I won't be adding much Piranha till the plants go in as I'm told Myco dies if there is no root host present within 24 hours, but Tricho does still bind without roots so we'll whack a little in 'fore she cooks; can't hurt... Again if any of this information strikes you as inaccurate please correct me. I'm never too old to learn something new and your advice will be greatly appreciated and taken on-board. So really my question for the organics champions out there is how much of what? Anything else you'd go for? I am formulating enough to make about 400 liters of the cooked stuff, and will have some left or obtain more of the base mix to layer with... I am also working on my mix in the meantime on paper and comparing, researching etc so I will post my thoughts soon as I have something put together a little better, just wanted to get this post up so I could have some replies and thoughts coming in while I went to work on it. I have about 27 days or so till I will need the mix so really need to get on it to have decent cooking time. To a large degree Subcool's mix is the Gold Standard that is widely accepted by those that don't grow organic and don't know but is not so widely and entirely accepted by aficionados of organics in general and I'd love to know why to be honest. I feel the results speak for themselves, obviously, but Sub's mix strikes me as a tad high in nitrogen as I'll only be blooming with this mix with maybe just one week of veg to get the girls settled in when they are potted-up to their final homes. Has anyone else thought this over? Also obviously the 1/3 to 1/2 layering tech that Sub speaks of is in relation to a minimum 7 gallon (approx 26 liter) pot, but he's growing large beasts and few of them whilst I grow more manageable beasts and more of them currently with my inorganic liquids and light-mix combo in smaller 14 liter pots that can actually be filled extra high to incorporate about 15.5 liters. Will I need to adapt my style to fewer, larger plants to take advantage of Subskie's methods? Or will these third to a half full pot measurements be needing upscaling due to the smaller size pots? Jesus christ, that was a long post... Sorry if I killed you with boredom reading all of it but there's just so many questions and as you guys know very well by now I'm sure, the world is full of so called 'expert of everything and master of nothing' fuckhead stoner wannabes that throw about regurgitated, outdated, and often just plain wrong information in the name of appearing knowledgeable among their friends. So I thought the internet and in particular UK420 Forums might have the answers without the bullshit. Everything and anything you've got to say on the matter please guys, please you Americans out there, we love your help, but please save the blah blah about FFOF and Roots etc, you can't get it in Europe. The soil I have is plenty quality( CERTAINLY in line with top end Plagron mixes and actually better I'd have thought); it's more the 'hotness' of the final mixed product that concerns me, so really the advice I'm after is for the proportions of nutrition related stuff mostly. And yes I am sure this topic has been heavily discussed here before and I've read most of the supersoil threads around the net without asking questions and of course if you don't use an identical mix there's gonna be questions, along with the fact that I'm not hardline to using Subcool's approach; if anyone has any other ideas I'd love to hear about it. My apologies to the mods if this post should be somewhere else and thanks again enlightened posters of the UK420 forums, it's sites like this and people such as yourself who make wading through the bullshit possible. Cheers and Peace Keep It Rolling Chaps Timmy
  6. Hi, First of all, sorry for my english, it’s not my native language So I had ca 4 unsuccessfull round with very poor yield. As a beginner i made a lot of mistakes, for example over watering, under watering, under feeding, over feeding, adding too much kind of fertilizers, addictives. I wanted to make it organic, so i used the BioBizz line. For veg i used Plagron Grow mix soil, for flower BioBizz All mix soil. As fertilizers i have BioBizz Grow, Bloom and now i have BioBizz Alg-amic and BioHeaven. I want to open a diary soon, but i need some pre-discussion about some topic. I think one of my problem is my tap water source. It has a PH of 8.2-8.4 and an EC of 0,76 (380 ppm on scale 500) after 24 hour sitting. I used BioNova Citric acid as PH down and ph’d to 6.0-6.2. I have ph’d the plain water and the water with nutritients also. Maybe this was also a mistake, i don’t know. Then I bought now a RO system. My RO water has a 20 ppm of salts, and a PH of 8.0 by letting sit. If i add nutes the PH is 5.2. So my questions about the water source topic: What is the best water source in my case? (Tap, RO, Tap + RO) If I go with RO water and use BioBizz Alg-a-mic (plus possible BioHeaven) with every waterings, it will be OK? Will it cure the Cal/Mg deficiency? If not, what else should I buy? Should I ph my water and feed water? How can I prevent my soil of PH goes off? Can I mix something in BioBizz All mix soil?