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Found 47 results

  1. led

    Hi guys. I’m a new member with a pretty technical question. Hopefully there’s a few led boffins out there that can answer this for me. So I’m currently doing a grow. Nice bit of Pineapple Chunk almost ready to harvest. I’m using 180w Hanns panels which are working really well. but here’s my question. I have a marine tank led fitting which I have been unable to sell on eBay for a decent price (£540 new) so I’m wondering if I can use it to grow. It’s a maxspect rsx 150. 4 channels with the following leds. Channel A 6x Cree XT-E 450-455nm Royal Blue 6x Cree XT-E 6500k Cool White Channel B 12x Cree XB-D 450-455nm Royal Blue 12x EpiLED 470-475nm Cool Blue Channel C 3x EpiLED 390-395nm Violet 3x EpiLED 400-405nm Violet 3x EpiLED 410-415nm Violet 3x EpiLED 440-445nm Violet Channel D 3x EpiLED 500-505nm Cyan 3x EpiLED 660-665nm Deep Red 6x Cree XB-D 3000k Warm White Anyone out there in the know about whether I can make use of it or not? TIA
  2. Hi Gardeners of Paradise A blog about the light and its effect on plants. Always good to read about, no? Let's see..... How Cannabis Plants Utilize Light and Effects on Yield In order to cultivate any cannabis plant, you need two things - light and water. Given these two essential elements any plant will fulfil its obligation to a natural life cycle and grow! However, there is a big difference between a cannabis plant that ‘just’ grows and one that fulfils its true potential. In order to maximize the harvest yield you need to maximize how cannabis plants utilize light. Enjoy and take care !
  3. light

    From the album blog

    Light & plants
  4. Looking for options besides Lumatek to replace a 600w HPS? No china crap
  5. Hi guys.Im newbie here and im planing to grow in a pc case.Generally indicas are short and easy to grow for beginners.I learned bunch of things like lumens,cool air and etc.My case is about to 48cm height and i'll use 7cm pot with 6 liter soil.These are the items that i'll use in my grow box. 3*50W full spectrum cob led (with fans and alluminum block leds have to stay cool) 10 liter of biobizz light mix soil 48cm height pc case 2*120mm good fan with good rpm(one will be exhaust fan with active carbon filter the other one will inhale fresh air from outside) 1*white widow auto or something that mostly indica and dwarf And im gonna cover inside of the case with alluminum car sun visor. I checked real statistics of leds.They are real 50W. 1*120mm fan for the leaves can feel the wind At the growing stage i'll use biobizz nutrients like bio bloom-grow and all mix. Do you think is there any problem about my system?50W led can produce 80lm/watt and 3*50W can produce 12K lumens.I searched for the lumen thing and i saw for the 1 plant it has to be 10K lumens minimum.Do i have to change something or system will be ok with 1 plant? Btw i'll use 18/6 at veg stage,12/12 at flowering stage.And i'll try to use low stress techniques for control my yield in case. Is that all?Do you guys wanna help for the better result? If this system will success this topic can be the best for people who wanna grow in a pc case.So please dont hesitate to fix something if its wrong on this setup.
  6. Hi chaps, I'm back in the game after a long break. I no longer have my PL2 propagation light and was wondering whether I actually NEED it to shell out 50-60 bucks for it, or will the ladies be ok putting a 600W light (high as i get get it) from seed? Cheers for any advice or pointers!
  7. Eyup, I got bored and did a thing to my light. I got another light and made them kiss. Seems there aren't any true uvb leds, so tis a 24W t5 arcadia 14% uvb light, which fits nicely with samsung / diyleduk strips. also gives 30% uva for good measure rough estimate it adds just shy of a natural level of uv in proportion to the rest of the fixture. Taste tests begin roundabout new year! Fitting was easy enough, clips included and whatnot, just bolt them on. I already had holes for mounting my driver, so I cut the oscillation button from a fan in half and used them as a spacer to give it 3/4" clearance for breathing room. The strap's a bit bowed because I had to invert one of the fasteners to clear the power cable, which I did in situ, but it will do until grows end.
  8. As the title suggests. Viparspectra, Mars Hydro 300W units? 250W HPS? What would you guys recommend? Budget is <£100 and looking to grow a couple autos at a time.
  9. Hey Guys, still out here trying to decide on which grow light to get and i've come across both the mars hydro ts 1000 model and the sp 150 model. Both seem like great value for money and really on the cusp of modern led technology. considering either one of them for my 60 x 60 tent. Linked below: Just wondering are any of you guys currently growing with these lights or how they stack up against similar specced lights such as the Migro lights or @diyleduk?
  10. Hi all, First time grower here. Been trying to figure this one out with search and google but I'm out of ideas. This girls is on her 28th day - 250w HPS in a small 60x60cm (4inch RAM exhaust). PH level read 7 - 7.5 Pic1 As you can see she has white marks on her upper leaves, and some 'burn' spots on others. She also had yellowing of the lower leaves (trimmed all the worst affected). Earlier this week she was looking worse, with all new growth with white marks and suddenly quite slow growth (before that she had been great). So she had the first round of nutes (Tomorite), and raised the lights up which helped a lot overnight. also bought some Cal Mag in case it was an iron, or magnese deficiency, which was given to her 48 hours ago which helped-ish (less than than the raising of the light and Tomorite). Pic2 Is from before all this happened about 7 - 9 days ago As the title, do you think this is a deficiency or just light/heat stress? Very wary not to over-counter it and make problems worse. The new growth at the top doesn't seem to be affected. There has been with low humidity levels (around 30 - 40) which I corrected with humidfyer when really low and spaying walls of tent in case that's relevant. I am aware that a 250w is fairly big (?) in such a small tent so maybe it was too close (followed guidelines on here). Thanks lads Seed is O.G Kush RQS
  11. Hi guys, finally got around to getting a small tent for my 2 somango xl's. They're currently under a little 10/15w ikea led, which in fairness has worked wonders for them up to this point. But the time has come for an upgrade and I need them to start putting on size in veg now if I want smoke by christmas. They've also just been transplanted to 6.5 litre pots, will likely repot before flower to something bigger (maybe 15l+? depending what fits). Hoping to pull 7 oz's at least between the two plants. Have explored options with LED, liking the minimal heat and low energy costs. Would like something at least 200 actual watts, would an led of this power achieve the 7oz goal? Also open the hps/cmh, just not sure which ones are a good safe brand, a lot of shite online. Would appreciate some real world recommendations from you guys!
  12. Looking at different options for starting off some seedlings and came across this thingy: The led is made by a company called vaxer, can't really find much about them. How much growth do you think 2 seedlings could get from this light? currently have them on the windowsill but know they can't stay there for much longer. Will be getting a larger light (at least 400watt) in a month or so
  13. Just. Brought this light but does not come with much information of what brightness i start the seeds on i can have mono red light mono blue light of red and blue light together and starts from 20% brightness to 100% but I do not know what brightness to start with or when to change it any help appreciated
  14. Right. lets see how many different opinions I get On this!! Ok So Is it ok to lollypop a little in veg? The thing that most bothers me is the way people say "Blocks the light" "buds in the shade" . Plants dont see light like us and light passes through the leaves. Also the fact the the fan leaves do all the photosynthesis and removing these seems backwards?I fully understand letting the energy go towards bigger buds but still find it all a little odd?
  15. Sincerest apologies for the dumb question to follow... I'm looking for a little reassurance! So, due to an unforeseen event I'm forced to break the light schedule of a grow - the grow went 12/12 only yesterday and I need to move the plants and break down the grow for a few hours - I'll have to bring the plants into light around 4 hours early so they went from 18(on)/6(off) to 16(on)/8(off). As I only just turned them yesterday, I reckon I'm unlikely to have an explosion of bollocks... Does that sound right?
  16. Hi all, I wanted to purchase a nice branded, widespread shade with air cooling ability. At the time, I was unable to find anything so I made my own. I've had this for some time, but thought I'd finally share as I've installed some sensors and it's given me the chance to photo the previous work I've done to convert it. Unable to find anything, I decided I would modify my current shade to suit the 1000w double end (DE) light setup. To my surprise, it was surprisingly easy because MOST euro shades I have measured fit inside this unit. As well as recording what I've done, consider this a how-to. Before you say I bought a DE 1000w shade I had one to hand and didn't see the need to buy another shade just to wire it myself. If anyone know's of a decent branded DE shade please share, but for now, here's my how too including sensor installation for retro fitting. First, you'll need; Air cooled shade of your choice - I was extremely happy with the build quality and overall integrity of the SunSystem's shades so grabbed myself the 6 inch setup. Double ended 1000w system - measure the length of the euro shade - ensure it will fit inside. I'm using an Adjustawatt 1000w DE 400v setup. I'm hoping to replace this soon but it shouldn't matter what ballast or bulb you use. Drill / bits, sizing depending on the wire size of your setup Wire cutters Insulation tape Various sized grommets (depending on your setup) A camera - to share with your local uk420 forum Test fit the euro shade into the unit, if the length is measured correctly it will fit inside, open up and support itself within the shade. Without having to modify the end reflectors. If the euroshade does not fit, modify it best you can to be slightly wider than the overall width of the air cooled shade. There will be a ledge inside, this is what the euro shade sits on. You can then best the lamp position into the air cooled lamp, with the shades wings giving the typical V stance, they will be supported. Cutting the reflector material is easy using tin snips. Just be careful with any cut metal and ensure you use needle files to deburr edges and hoovering is a must - try and do metal drilling / filing outside (shed). Additional; I have installed three temperature/humidity sensors and a light sensor into this unit. I'm using a 7 core wire to transfer the signal, which is why I've also included a roof sensor and an external shade sensor. I am measuring inside the shade temperature/humidity to understand the system, not to use as an environmental measure. Canopy height is the main temperature to go by, this will be done separately. As well as lower tent temperature. I am using DHT11 sensors and TS2561 light sensor. Once you've collected your items, take apart fully the air-cooled shade. You'll need to re-wire the ballast to bulb loom and feed it into the light. There may be a hole already, which would save you some drilling time. Ensure when removing part of the shades reflector, you install the suitable grommet to allow for the cable to run. Heat and pressure on the wire will eventually short out. With 400v setups being common with DE units, you don't want this to happen! Use plenty of electrical tape between the wires, I opted for amalgamating tape around the lot at the end. Holes will be required for any sensors you wish to install. Make sure any temperature/humidity sensors are not directly against a surface, the airflow on surfaces is inaccurate as a measurement. 3mm hex pillars are an easy way to do this. I'm unsure the effects of air flow causing temperature variation in this setup, but until someones tried it and proven it's inaccurate then I'm hoping to gather some useful data. Lay the euro reflector down inside the unit, if all is well, it will fit and the sides will hold in place. I've tried different shades, I was unable to find one that didn't fit. Of course, the width of the euro reflector will be important as this will determine the height and central location of the lamp. Just ensure you measure it first; I'm certain most will fit. But check! Once in position, ensure all wiring is tucked out the way of air flow and confirm all wires are still secure. Plan your holes ahead of drilling. The side unit shows the wire for the tent roof sensor, the external shade sensor and the 7 core wire which has the sensor voltage and signals. Always mark up the wires if they use the same colours, I've notes wire colours for connections. I label the sensors, these will be the sensor numbers which will reference the programming code when I install them and begin to data log. Above are showing the grey 3 core wire for top of the tent sensor, 7 core wire and the largest power cable for the lamp. I placed my external shade temperature sensor near the safety catch for when the glass panel is open so I can secure it neatly. I'm sure there are options for shades with DE system's already installed, I've only found cheap units which I wouldn't personally buy. If someone already has an air cooled shade, but purchased a non-air cooled setup I hope this will be useful. The instructions are basic but clear; Be safe protecting any re-soldered wires Ensure wires are supported, not tight and use grommits when going through metal to ensure wires are not cut Do not use crimps with any high voltage wires - my personal opinion Don't coil high voltage cables Use cable ties on the wire inside the unit to ensure they don't get pulled out if knocked externally I'll post some of the data when I have begun to capture it. I'm still finishing off the main data collection system. Photos of the finished unit; Above showing location of the external shade temperature. Directing away from the light, to stop light impacting air values (potentially). There are a million places I would have put the sensor. However, of ease of installation and repeatability, I thought this location was best. Directly facing the lamp at such close contact may give me inaccruate results (unless I use top industry sensors). I'm not light expert, so I'm hoping for some feedback at light degredation at least - even if I'm unable to use as a comparitve value in other situations. The orange wire shown is the additional CFL lighting I have in the corners. White cable is for the corner fans. Showing below is the top air temperature sensor. Feedback is welcome, of course, please be nice, I'm new!
  17. I currently use 600w hps digital ballast systems. 9 plants to 1x 600w hps, 1 to 1.5msq. 20ltr soil. I wish to convert to LED. I have browsed KING LED 3000W lights due to their cost. A typical HPS at 600w is aprox 90k lumens. Looking at the specs of a 3000w King LED fixture it gives the lumen output as aprox 24k. Can anyone help me with this disparity? I really wish to switch to LED but want King LED prices..but 24k lumens sounds wrong for 3kw of LED light? Any advices and experiences sought. Thank you
  18. Hi, I am fighting heat at the moment and with regard to air cooled lights and was wondering if anyone has experience with this. Is there is a big benefit to cooling the lights down via a dedicated fan vs using the exhaust fan I already have? Cheers
  19. im new to this, can anyone advise me if i will get a reasonable yeild using a 600w dual spec bulb for 6 plants. they are in 10l pots in plagron batmix, around 18-20 inches in height and ready to go into flower. i only have that one light at the moment and wondered if i could get through this first grow with that alone. i plan on using some canna terra flores neutrients for flowering stage. sorry if this seems a stupid question im just learning
  20. Hi all I am looking to purchase a cheap LED for a tiny veg cab with limited height, around 90cm, its a small room and I currently have a 125w CFL in it. Enrionment is okay but I want higher wattage to cover 9 young plants and be able to raise my light up somewhat. I also know the LED will create some nice bushiness having used a bigger one before, and then I can really pump them in flower under a 600w digi hps in a parabolic. Thing is, being a Yorkshireman I am a tight arse, but I also know I do not need the advanced platinum sun shines out of the crystal backside of my creation series of light, just something with a max draw power of 300w from my socket, something equivalent to 300-450w of MH or HPS light. My imaginary budget is between £40-65. Can it be done? I know the tech is getting better all the time, and prices are coming down as more competitors come on the scene. Does anybody have a joyful story to tell of getting a bargain LED that literally just needs to 'do the job' nothing extra special. Ive considered HPS but even a smaller one will run too hot in there, and because of the space of the loft, flower room and veg cab do not want nor need to take on another ballast if I can avoid. Would ideally like to acheive 30w per plant so 9 x 30w somewhere around 300w of true wattage, but no more from its draw. I have done lots of searching myself, so just wondered if anybody else knows anything.
  21. Hi! I went away at the weekend and I think my electricity stopped for 12 hours. I was planning on harvesting today and I noticed my timer was 12 hours out. So the plants got full light during the dark hours for 1 / 2 days! Do you think this would have any negative effects on my crops? Or is it so close to harvest now that it does not matter anymore. Thanks for any knowledge!
  22. Hey all. I have recently just built a veg room in my loft, adjoining onto my main room. Dimensions: 1.7m long, 0.85m deep, 1.2m tall. Solid room made of beams and loft paneling, insulated with 50mm poly boards and then fully mylared. I Will be putting a 4 inch output fan in to vent out and leave door ajar to bring air in with an small desk fan to oscillate around, this will be done next week. Ive just fitted a 300w CFL with reflector in as I just had it doing nothing and as I speak running some tests with 3 hemp seeds just as a practice, As I am a newb to doing. I will be aiming to crack open my 5 Kalashnikovas (GHS) soon, and a choice of 1 or 2 others. I have a red diesel and Honeysuckle which keep taking my fancy. My temp is averaging at 24 degree, highest this week so far 25.7 and lowest is 23.1, light on 24.7. My light is as high as will go, around 1m high, with the 3 hemps on the floor. I soaked seeds for 30 min while I saturated coco in small pots with some root stim and let that just drain and soak in in the meantime. then just stuck the seeds 1cm into each pot. Took 3 days for them to rise which was yesterday and since that they have grown 4 inches. Now I know these are hemp seeds and they might grow differently I dont know that much, but 4 inch seems a lot to me. Could the stretch be having the CFL light up at 1m? All 3 pots already have a big root coming out of the bottom and im just giving them small amounts of Growers ark rootstim and first feed, little and otfen to keep moist. Im confident this environment is good enough to crack my Kalashnikovas soon. Is yet to be vented but I am installing a small 4 inch fan next week. But is the CFL good enough at that height as Im a bit surprised at the stretch of the testers im running. My actual area is only one half of the room, as it is long and narrow. Im aiming to be able to house 8 to 9 young plants when im confident over time in there in a 60x60cm deep garland tray. Would I be better switching to a cooler bulb in the hotter months as I feel all that CFL is a warm old thing. And if so, what are the best bulbs for that space? A lot of questions I know, but I love this site and trust you all to be as helpful as we always are. Thanks lots.!
  23. Hi all, I'm new on the forum and the growing world so bare with me please I was trying to find a better section where to post this but I couldn't seem to find one, so here it is. (Moderators feel free to move around, or please PM me before removing as it'll be a quite long one ). So, a bit of background. I've been a smoker/lover for about 20 years, then for unknown reasons I started having bad reactions to (I think) THC so I had to quit Now, this all CBD world is exploding all around, did a bit of research about medical strains and, as where I leave it's impossible to find anything but crap, I decided to give it a go and try and grow my own. Problem is I don't really know if these weaker strains will cause me the same problems when "consumed" So I'd like to stay on the cheap and upgrade further on in case of success. I've ordered some Sweet Nurse Auto CBD 5-10% THC/10-15% CBD and CBD Critical Cure 5% THC/8.5% CBD (and I also received a whole bunch (10/12) of high THC seeds), started buying some of the needed equipment and I'm "building" my tent (80x90x150cm, I used electrical pipes for the structure and I'll cover it with cardboard using emergency blankets as reflective material on the inside). As for lights I went for LED and I got a cheap COB 300w one off ebay (not sure if linking is allowed https://goo.gl/ugPPM6 ) Now the questions: I've been reading about fans and filters but I've seen on youtube some pretty experienced growers having good results without and saying that for air circulation it's enough to open the tent once/twice a day (https://youtu.be/lt-KNNAY80g min 4.14) And adding 1/2 small conventional fans for airflow. What's your take on that? This leads to opening the tent, from my understanding it's ok to open the tent given you respect the light cycle (hence you open it when the light is on and keep it close, especially during flowering, when the light is off). Is that right? Ventilation when the tent in closed. I was thinking to add a line of small holes close to the bottom on one side (where I'd put my fan so that it would kinda pull fresh air in from there) and the same on the top to the opposite side (from where the warm air is supposed to get out). Would that do? Also, shall I worry about the light leaking in from those holes or, making them small enough (say 6 holes 10mm), the amount of light will be irrelevant? Finally, last but not least, I'd like to go as "organic" as possible, avoiding chemical nutes (even because they require flushing and water is kind of an issue on the island where I leave). I do make my own compost (coffee ground, tea leaves, egg shells and all the veg waste from salad, greens, fruit etc...), would you use it when potting? What else you suggest to use as an aid? I think that's about it for the moment, be assured I'll be back bothering you guys with more questions once I'll start! I can't wait!!! I'll probably start with one because of the very small tent, most probably I'll go with the Sweet Nurse which is stated to be ready in 8 weeks from germination! Peace
  24. my mate has a 2.4x1.2x2.0 grow tent which he is running 2 x 1000w lights is to much or ok.
  25. So there's magistrates guidelines saying a personal grow is 9 plants per person with no more than 24 in one location before those guidelines supposedly change but it says nothing about how much light is used!!!! 9 x 1 plant 1000w scrogs would surely be taking the piss will domestic uk electricity suppliers notice that kind of thing ? even if you are paying for it, or is it they are not bothered as long as your filling their coffers ? So how much is too much for a perpetual personal grow in the average uk household ?