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Found 44 results

  1. I just want to be clear with the title, hence the ultimatum, and really, I live chemical free, so if there is no awesome way to use hydroponics naturally, then i am sticking with soil, I still cling to the hope that there might be a good way, that's why i posted this, can it be done?
  2. Hello all, I've currently got 2 monsters growing well in DWC. My current light is Viaspar 450w. As the plants exploded in growth quicker than expected in the late veg state, and are now in the early stages of blooming (flowering has started), I've upgraded to a bigger tent for both height, width, and climate control. The current (new) tent is 1000x1000x180. I purchased a new Marshydro TS1000 with the new tent. My big question is, should I change the lighting in the new tent to the TS1000 or keep growing this batch under the Viaspar 450 lights, as that is what they are used to. The current light distance is around 40cm and growth has stabilized. I don't want to shock them at this point with a 550w light spike if it will be a danger to them. Even if this new spectrum will be better for harvest. Does anyone know anything about switching lights at this stage? This is my first hydro grow and everything has gone great so far (except for the late veg growth spurt) and I don't want to fuck things up for them in the last stages Any input would be really appreciated!
  3. Please post any general questions you may have and we'll get back to you ASAP
  4. Hi Everyone, Welcome to One Tree Horticulture. www.onetreehorticulture.co.uk We are here to help you so please feel free to ask any questions and we'll do our utmost to help you. We are adding new products all the time, so please keep checking back for updates. Recent products include the Adjust-A-Wing light kits and reflectors and we are just about to add the Intense nutrient range. Don't forget to take advantage of our 15% discount using the code UK420. We look forward to hearing from you. take it easy One Tree Horticulture
  5. Day 10 from first true leaves. Got a think different seed from 2 years ago, didn't expect it to grow as its old but it has. I've got it in a started plug from root it. It came out nicely and is now on the second week from first true leaves which showed up on the 1rst January. How is it doing? I'm using masterblend, calcium nitrate and magnesium sulphate and some benifcial bacteria Mycorrhizal inoculant. TNC Mycorr hydro is the name of it. It done wanders for my other herbs like basil In dwc. The roots have started growing very fast. Ph is at 5.9 at the moment. And around 1000 ppm but I do have a cheap tds metre so not sure on accuracy. My water is between 200 to 300 out of the tap. I leave it for 24 hours to evapourate most of the chlorine before I use it. I mix masterblend first then magnesium sulphate then calcium nitrate. My tent stays around 24°C Which I read maybe a little high but it is stable. I did have a very weak nutrient water at first, I'm now following the table I have put up which is grams per litre of water. I am using week 1 at the moment, sorry for my hand writing. Anyone see if I'm doing anything wrong or a better guide for masterblend for a grow such as this.
  6. Got a think different seed from 2 years ago, didn't expect it to grow as its old but it has. I've got it in a started plug from root it. It came out nicely and is now on the second weed from first true leaves which showed up on the 1rst January. How is it doing? I'm using masterblend, calcium nitrate and magnesium sulphate and some benifcial bacteria Mycorrhizal inoculant. TNC Mycorr hydro is the name of it. It done wanders for my other herbs like basil In dwc. The roots have started growing very fast. Ph is at 5.9 at the moment. And around 1000 ppm but I do have a cheap tds metre so not sure on accuracy. My water is between 200 to 300 out of the tap. I leave it for 24 hours to evapourate most of the chlorine before I use it. I mix masterblend first then magnesium sulphate then calcium nitrate. My tent stays around 24°C Which I read maybe a little high but it is stable. The leaves are a little dipped at the ends and new leaves towards them stem is slightly pale but I did have a very weak nutrient water at first, I'm now following the table I have put up which is grams per litre of water. I am using week 1 at the moment, sorry for my hands writing. Anyone see if I'm doing anything wrong or a better guide for masterblend for a grow such as this.
  7. Thinking about giving hydro a shot and I was looking at Hydrofarm/Waterfarm. My question is: In an indoor setting is there a need to regulate the temps in the res? And if so, how do you guys go about it in the simplest and most cost-effective way. I have an Inkbird already if that's any use. TIA Just to add, I can keep my ambient temps within the 23 - 25C range lights on and 19C lights off.
  8. wardrobe

    Hi all, Glad I found this site! I’m starting my first grow in a few weeks when rest of set up gets here. ive bought a complete wardrobe set up from Moxy Garden in the UK. Part lack of tools, lack of time and it looks the absolute nuts! i was planning on just 1 plant as tester but a friend who has quite a lot of experience said I could get maybe 4 in this space! I decided on 2 which will be in their own Aeros bubbler pots, no res or any recirculating as I don’t have the space inside the wardrobe. The measurements are... 76cm W x 52 D x 176 H. Height will be shorter when I put the rhino pro’s and Invisible sun LED265 in. I was looking at mainlining/manifolding as it looks the simplest and productive way. My question is I’m not sure if I have enough horizontal space for the plants to branch out using this method. im worried I’m going to start and train early and then realising I’ve fucked up later. I’m think I’m okay with height once I put a scrog in, just can’t quite grasp a sense of scale any advice is much appreciated. J
  9. hydroponics

    Hi new on here ,I’m using nft and Wilma in tent,my water is only prop 10 degrees,Iv heard people say don’t bother running at correct temp which I believe 20 degrees,Iv just bought water heater £15 it keeps heating up too 70 if left on then turns self off,which is too high,would it do any harm if put heater on electric timer?so heats up now and again,
  10. When growing cannabis in hydro (RDWC), does it matter if the air temperature surround the leaves/stem/buds is high (e.g. 22-35 degrees C), if the roots are bathed in chilled water (at 19-20 degrees) constantly? I am starting a hydro attic grow soon, and my attic gets quite hot. However, I have a hydro water chiller that can keep the water at a constant temperature of my liking, and I have plenty of circulation fans. I can also, regularly mist the leaves of the plant if needed. However, is there any point at all in starting an attic grow if I can only control the temperature of the water reservoir?
  11. Greetings all, So my grow-room re-build is almost complete...on to the next stage. I'm trying out an Intellidoser by Autogrow and will be using the Flora Gro trio by General Hydroponics. Has anyone here done this? I'm struggling with the "sequential dosiing instructions", and that's even before I have to tackle the proportions.... Hoping someone will see this :-)
  12. Hi guys. growing in soil now for just about a year .1.2m tent 8 inch extraction Passive intake. . 600hps. Normally run 4 plants average between 10-14 oz with a 4/5 week veg. Not great numbers but the bud always seems good quality. Looking to go hydro to see if i can increase yield a bit . My environment seems decent. Average lights on around 25 lights off 17/18. Stay in scotland so very rarely outside temp is over 20. Looking at dwc single pots most likely have been speaking with @badbillybob and his info has been great. Is it possible to run dwc bubbler buckets and have good results with the chiller?. The recirc system i would need would be to expensive and building one will need to wait.
  13. Hi everyone, I'm a new to hydro grower. Have a couple soil and coco grows before but am making the switch to hydro, hoping to pick up some tips here as I go. Thanks in advance.
  14. So I’ve had half a dozen successful grows in an traditional Coco/Perlite (watered manual) I think i want to try Deep Water Culture Hydro. what kinda setup could I run in 60x60x140 tent at the minute I can get 2-3 10l fabric pots. would I be best with 5gallon bucket setups or like a 6 pots tray etc.. all a bit new for me...
  15. I haven't actually seen much on the site about bioponics so here goes fuck all. Bioponics (BP) is a blanket term for a number of organic, hydroponic based growing systems. For the purpose of this post, I'm sticking to the method I used on some maskotka tomatoes. In normal hydroponics (NH), nutrients are in an available form that the plant can use without any intermediates. In BP, as with any organic method of growing - nutrients have not undergone processes which make them immediately available. In soil organic growing, these unprocessed solutions enter the growing substrate and are met with a carefully curated force of bacteria and fungi which mercilessly break down substances into their available forms. So how do you replicate this stage in the process without a growing medium? A biofilter (BF). Which is actually a fairly poorly chosen name for what it is; it doesn't actually filter out anything as the name suggests. I have seen people trying to use synthetic materials like chopped up door mats to "filter" the solution due to this description. A more accurate description would be a "digestion substrate" but I'm not going to confuse anyone by slinging new words into the mix. A BF is as simple as this: a natural substance which bacteria and fungi can form a home in through which the undigested nutrient solution is continually fed through and drained back into the reservoir. This performs the first and most obvious task of feeding the microbes the nutrient solution to be broken down but also aerates the solution (you're still going to need an air stone in your reservoir). This can be as simple as a 5L bucket with lid (don't go any smaller) with holes at the bottom and a med-low micron gauze bag lining the bucket (most mid range bubble bags can be recycled to perform this task) to prevent the substrate from falling through. For the substrate, you would be safest starting with PH adjusted (organic adjusted) coco which you can inoculate with trichoderma (G.O. do a fantastic little culture called BM that is perfect for coco). Much like a sourdough starter, this filter will improve with time if you look after it. Initially, I was discouraged by nutrient deficiencies galore because I hadn't given it enough time to digest nutrients prior to the tomatoes first feed. Equally, if you set this going too early, you will find you will have to change your water more often than you like. However, if you take care of your filter by replacing the water before it goes bad, you won't have to change out your filter (although it's not the end of the world if you do - just a little lost time). At this point I'll mention: - the pump feeding into the BF absolutely has to be on 24/7, passing the solution through once will not break it down completely, it has to go through as much as possible. Also, try smelling your BF when it's gone dry... - place your BF directly over your reservoir and let it drain in slowly - too quick and you will flush the substrate - aeration will determine how long you can keep your nutrient water for (and whether it works full stop - I use a small wave emitter too) - make sure the entire substrate in the BF is getting soaked - when drilling holes in the BF bucket lid for the input - make sure there isn't light getting in - DON'T POUR THE UNDIGESTED SOLUTION DIRECTLY INTO THE RESERVOIR FIRST. Pour (slowly) through the filter to begin with, as it will catch the chunkiest parts of the nutrient solution to save the life of your pump In terms of nutrients, there isn't much around formulated for BP and you will often see people wailing about how it goes off quickly, or is full of chunks or how they have to use double doses. It's organic, so naturally it will go off quicker than synthetics. It's full of chunks? FUCKING GOOD. LOVE THEM CHUNKY BITS. They get trapped in the BF until they are broken down which is more efficient than being cycled through 1000 times. Finally, if you find you're having to use double doses, there's something wrong with your BF as it's not breaking things down efficiently. Don't be frightened by bad reviews. Personally, I favour the G.O. bio thrive line, and the rest of their Terra Aquatica supplements. They are specifically formulated for use with BFs. I have had little success with other brands. G.O.'s line tend to stay stable for longer (don't start smelling like the fetid love slot of a yeti on day three) and work well with the culture I mentioned before. Now, I've spent a year or two perfecting the process and have found that the smallest changes in the inputs or the system itself will require re-tuning to work/be efficient. I've started using larger BFs, hollowing out pond filters instead of using buckets, different substrates etc with more success but it's taken many instances of saying "fuck KISS to death", many of which have ended in tears. Do not try this if you're not willing to experiment. Other than all the above, the process is pretty much the same as normal hydro and you can apply it to DWC, drippers (use an inline dripper filter) etc. I'd love to hear of any attempts made and will pass on more empirical knowledge to any intrepid bio-poneers. NERVOUS
  16. I used to grow kale, spinach, cucumber, and tomatoes. And I thought the same principles would apply, so when Canada made it legal to grow four plants I was sold. I have a space, and odor constraint, and was not on RIU, or GC, so I was doing my own research, and ended up spending some money on BCNLs Roommate Hydro setup. About BCNLs Roommate The Roommate is the smallest growing box offered, measuring in at 28” Wide, 54.5” High, and 28” Deep (external measurements). I’m currently at work, so I will measure the internal compartments later. It comes with 4 air stones that are set up in a series-parallel configuration on the bottom of a 16L reservoir. A water pump also sits in the reservoir that pushes the water up to a feed line that has 4 drip line inserts. Each drip line will go into the rockwool that they provided as well as mesh pots, giving me the potential to grow four beauties (hopefully). They provide 12 1.5” rockwool, and 4” rockwool both branded Atami BCuzz Roxx. For lightning they provided MH and HPS 400W lights and ballast ( I could upgrade to :The RoomMate’s LED fixture has one panel with four Citizen COBs, 120-degree lenses and a HLG 185 Meanwell drivers. The unit will use roughly 225 watts as opposed to the 400 watt digital ballast. For an extra 600 CAD, could use some input on this upgrade). As far as air circulation, both the intake and exhaust fans are built in, and a carbon filter is included. The box comes preprogrammed for when to feed, and when to turn on/off lights. On my end all I had to do was program the time of day, and choose if I want 12/12 or 18/6 for lighting. They also provided 3 cycles worth of Holland Secret Future harvest nutrients (it comes with their silver package which means I also got carbo blast, and Super B+, and bud boom). They also included some root cloned, and a propagation dome (I believe that is what it’s called). There are other ads-ons like clip on fan, blue lab pH controller, LED option, T5 lighting for under the plants (also interested in this, hoping to get your input!), and a ventilation package. Note that they have modified these so they don’t plug into normal ac outlets. I will show you what I mean when I go to the box next. Hopefully I’m not missing anything, but let me know if you have any questions! The Grow After I ordered the box, it was time to get some seeds. I opted to go with 4 femmed seeds from a local shop. Went there, and came out with AK-47, Amnesia Haze, Northern Lights and Dream. My first mistake is not labeling the packages they came in, so after picking them... I have no idea which bag has which seed-not making that mistake again. My germination process consists of putting the four seeds in Nestle Pure Life (based upon what they said the pH of the water was I thought it was a good idea) water and storing them in a cabinet above my stove. After 24 hours, I took them out, soaked some paper towel (squeezed out most of the Nestle water) and placed the seeds in the paper towel, placed them in a ziplock bag and put them back up above the stove for another 72 hours. By this time all of the seeds have sprouted, so I soaked the rockwool in tap water (pH of 6.4) for 2 hours, then added one seed per rockwool. Since they were damp, I placed a plastic tray under the rockwool before placing them back above the stove. My next mistake was when the first sprout came through the top of the rockwool. I didn’t know about protective casing, and I thought the plant was growing upside down. I tried removing the new growth from the rockwool to flip it, but in the process the new sprout tore... I tried taping and putting it back with the others. Within three days, all the plants sprouted, and they all had the protective casing- another mistake that will not be made. I left the seeds as they were above the light for 5 days, feeding them every other day with Nestle water. From there I placed the small rockwool with the seedlings into the larger 5" rockwool, and placed the larger rockwool into its forever home within the mesh pots in the grow box. I watered the entire rockwool. The light schedule was 18/6, and I was watering using RO water for the first week-no nutes, non pHd- no adverse affects but I would most likely pH the water next time around. I put the plant that I cut, hoping it was just stunted and would pull through. A day after I put the rockwool in the box, one of my more stretched plants was having difficulty staying up. I tried to support him with a souvlaki stick- successfully. Within three days of putting the seedlings into the box, they have developed some leaves (1st set), though the protective casing is still stuck on. Within six days from moving to their new home, they have nearly shed the protective casing, and have the second set of leaves growing in, although the casing is still there... I decided to intervene and physically removed the casing myself, being as gentle as I could be. Anyways, I finished my grow and have been searching for seeds for some time, and when I came across Seedsman I felt like a child at a candy store. I continually added and added and then removed strains. I finally decided to pick randomly at what to keep and ended up getting: 10x Peyote Gorilla Fem, 5x Cookies Chill CBD, 3X Gelat.OG auto, 5x Zkittlez Auto, and 5x Purple Kush CBD Auto. Has anyone tried growing any of these? I’m really excited, and hope to do some group grows
  17. Five things you may need to know: 1. Output voltage: Usually, the ballast has four dimming output: 1100W, 1000W, 750W and 600W. It’s better we can adjust higher than the rated voltage under some specific scenario. 2. Power factor: should be higher than 0.97, the higher the better, however, it’s impossible to equal or be greater than 1. 3. Case temperature: should not exceed 50°C. 4. Voltage drop range when starting: 5000-6000V. 5. Launch time: 3-5mins, the shorter the better, if it's less than 3mins, it will provide high initial voltage which may shorten ballast lifespan.
  18. casey jones

    Hi all, ive attached some photos of some yellow leaves I’m experiencing on some casey jones.. the photos aren’t great but hopefully you can see the issue. Hoping to fix the sick plant before she goes into flowering. All the other ladies are absolutely fine, under pretty much the exact same conditions. Any advice would be helpful.
  19. Hello and welcome to my Humboldt Seeds tester dairy It feels great to finally get this up and running, looks like I'll be the first to kick things off. Genetics: Humboldt Seeds Platinum Yeti Sour 76 Lighting: Migro 200 for veg. Migro 600 for flower. Growing Method: Hydroponics DWC + Aeroponics 4 x 20 litre buckets + 4 inch net pots. Nutrients: General Hydroponics Flora series Additives: Diamond Nectar B52 URB Natural PK 13/14 Cal Mag Grow Room: 4x4 Homebox Evolution Tent. Cheap 4 inch inline fan + passive 4 inch intake. Hydro-X controller - Just being used to monitor temps and humidity for now. Hailea 4 outlet air pump - need the upgrade this to a larger pump. Two monkey fans. Bluelab PH pen + Bluelab EC Truncheon Cheap reverse osmosis system with 60 litre reservoir. Aeroponics System: Diy Aeroponics 6 six site system. The seeds will be taken from the wet paper towels and put into 1 inch rockwool cubes then put into this system with 3 inch net pots and clay pebbles, They will spend a few weeks in here and I will flip them in this system to determine sex before revegging and putting them into the DWC buckets And finally this is where we are at now, 3 seeds of each strain have been soaking in straight tap water not ph'd for the last 20 hours, after 24 hours in the water they will go into paper towels with just tap water I know it's total bs but I tried to sex the seeds based on characteristics, we will see how that one pans out Thanks for dropping by I'm looking forward to seeing everyone else's grow dairies and having some fun in this section. Peace out.
  20. I am growing 4 plants in a Wilma using hydroton.. I had some issues at the start but seem to have got through it.. The problem I have is one plant is looking ready to start flushing (70% of the pistils are red) but the other 3 plants are still all white and look 2/3 wks behind. Do I take that 1 plant off of the Wilma to flush manually or leave it while the others catch up? What's best for the crop, I don't want to ruin it. Any advice would be a great help. Thanks
  21. Hi all, I'm a complete noob to all this and need to get some decent advice before I get things going as the seeds have arrived!! I have very little space to play with which meant I got a 75x75x200 (WxDxH) tent, 450w LED light, carbon filter/extraction fan, a 65x65 wilma with 4 x 11ltr pots.. I have a bunch of extras like oxygen pump, heater (as the tent is in a shed, a concrete shed but a shed all the same), oscillating fan etc. This will be my first grow ever and the advice I get seems to change often, I've been reading this forum and everyone seems happy to help so here are my questions.. I was told to use 1" rockwool starter cubes, move them to 4" cubes once ready and then the 4" cubes into the 11ltr pot filled with clay pebbles.. Is this a good way to go as some people are telling me not to put rockwool in with clay pebbles? If I do stick with this medium setup do I drip feed or flood as rockwool and clay seem to prefer the opposite method? I appreciate there is no real set watering schedule but if i am going with rockwool held in clay pebbles can anyone give me a good starting point for the number / duration of feedings the plant should have? i can dial it in from there. I will be on an 18 on 6 off light schedule (maybe 19:5 just to test it) and was told not to feed during the dark period. I think i have the EC / PH / reservoir cleaning all down and i will pull back on the nutrient dosage to around 1/4 of recommended as I am growing autos and that seems to be common advice from everyone. Any tips / advice you can offer would be really appreciated Let me know if any of you need more info on my setup before offering up ideas.Thanks