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Found 30 results

  1. I haven't actually seen much on the site about bioponics so here goes fuck all. Bioponics (BP) is a blanket term for a number of organic, hydroponic based growing systems. For the purpose of this post, I'm sticking to the method I used on some maskotka tomatoes. In normal hydroponics (NH), nutrients are in an available form that the plant can use without any intermediates. In BP, as with any organic method of growing - nutrients have not undergone processes which make them immediately available. In soil organic growing, these unprocessed solutions enter the growing substrate and are met with a carefully curated force of bacteria and fungi which mercilessly break down substances into their available forms. So how do you replicate this stage in the process without a growing medium? A biofilter (BF). Which is actually a fairly poorly chosen name for what it is; it doesn't actually filter out anything as the name suggests. I have seen people trying to use synthetic materials like chopped up door mats to "filter" the solution due to this description. A more accurate description would be a "digestion substrate" but I'm not going to confuse anyone by slinging new words into the mix. A BF is as simple as this: a natural substance which bacteria and fungi can form a home in through which the undigested nutrient solution is continually fed through and drained back into the reservoir. This performs the first and most obvious task of feeding the microbes the nutrient solution to be broken down but also aerates the solution (you're still going to need an air stone in your reservoir). This can be as simple as a 5L bucket with lid (don't go any smaller) with holes at the bottom and a med-low micron gauze bag lining the bucket (most mid range bubble bags can be recycled to perform this task) to prevent the substrate from falling through. For the substrate, you would be safest starting with PH adjusted (organic adjusted) coco which you can inoculate with trichoderma (G.O. do a fantastic little culture called BM that is perfect for coco). Much like a sourdough starter, this filter will improve with time if you look after it. Initially, I was discouraged by nutrient deficiencies galore because I hadn't given it enough time to digest nutrients prior to the tomatoes first feed. Equally, if you set this going too early, you will find you will have to change your water more often than you like. However, if you take care of your filter by replacing the water before it goes bad, you won't have to change out your filter (although it's not the end of the world if you do - just a little lost time). At this point I'll mention: - the pump feeding into the BF absolutely has to be on 24/7, passing the solution through once will not break it down completely, it has to go through as much as possible. Also, try smelling your BF when it's gone dry... - place your BF directly over your reservoir and let it drain in slowly - too quick and you will flush the substrate - aeration will determine how long you can keep your nutrient water for (and whether it works full stop - I use a small wave emitter too) - make sure the entire substrate in the BF is getting soaked - when drilling holes in the BF bucket lid for the input - make sure there isn't light getting in - DON'T POUR THE UNDIGESTED SOLUTION DIRECTLY INTO THE RESERVOIR FIRST. Pour (slowly) through the filter to begin with, as it will catch the chunkiest parts of the nutrient solution to save the life of your pump In terms of nutrients, there isn't much around formulated for BP and you will often see people wailing about how it goes off quickly, or is full of chunks or how they have to use double doses. It's organic, so naturally it will go off quicker than synthetics. It's full of chunks? FUCKING GOOD. LOVE THEM CHUNKY BITS. They get trapped in the BF until they are broken down which is more efficient than being cycled through 1000 times. Finally, if you find you're having to use double doses, there's something wrong with your BF as it's not breaking things down efficiently. Don't be frightened by bad reviews. Personally, I favour the G.O. bio thrive line, and the rest of their Terra Aquatica supplements. They are specifically formulated for use with BFs. I have had little success with other brands. G.O.'s line tend to stay stable for longer (don't start smelling like the fetid love slot of a yeti on day three) and work well with the culture I mentioned before. Now, I've spent a year or two perfecting the process and have found that the smallest changes in the inputs or the system itself will require re-tuning to work/be efficient. I've started using larger BFs, hollowing out pond filters instead of using buckets, different substrates etc with more success but it's taken many instances of saying "fuck KISS to death", many of which have ended in tears. Do not try this if you're not willing to experiment. Other than all the above, the process is pretty much the same as normal hydro and you can apply it to DWC, drippers (use an inline dripper filter) etc. I'd love to hear of any attempts made and will pass on more empirical knowledge to any intrepid bio-poneers. NERVOUS
  2. I used to grow kale, spinach, cucumber, and tomatoes. And I thought the same principles would apply, so when Canada made it legal to grow four plants I was sold. I have a space, and odor constraint, and was not on RIU, or GC, so I was doing my own research, and ended up spending some money on BCNLs Roommate Hydro setup. About BCNLs Roommate The Roommate is the smallest growing box offered, measuring in at 28” Wide, 54.5” High, and 28” Deep (external measurements). I’m currently at work, so I will measure the internal compartments later. It comes with 4 air stones that are set up in a series-parallel configuration on the bottom of a 16L reservoir. A water pump also sits in the reservoir that pushes the water up to a feed line that has 4 drip line inserts. Each drip line will go into the rockwool that they provided as well as mesh pots, giving me the potential to grow four beauties (hopefully). They provide 12 1.5” rockwool, and 4” rockwool both branded Atami BCuzz Roxx. For lightning they provided MH and HPS 400W lights and ballast ( I could upgrade to :The RoomMate’s LED fixture has one panel with four Citizen COBs, 120-degree lenses and a HLG 185 Meanwell drivers. The unit will use roughly 225 watts as opposed to the 400 watt digital ballast. For an extra 600 CAD, could use some input on this upgrade). As far as air circulation, both the intake and exhaust fans are built in, and a carbon filter is included. The box comes preprogrammed for when to feed, and when to turn on/off lights. On my end all I had to do was program the time of day, and choose if I want 12/12 or 18/6 for lighting. They also provided 3 cycles worth of Holland Secret Future harvest nutrients (it comes with their silver package which means I also got carbo blast, and Super B+, and bud boom). They also included some root cloned, and a propagation dome (I believe that is what it’s called). There are other ads-ons like clip on fan, blue lab pH controller, LED option, T5 lighting for under the plants (also interested in this, hoping to get your input!), and a ventilation package. Note that they have modified these so they don’t plug into normal ac outlets. I will show you what I mean when I go to the box next. Hopefully I’m not missing anything, but let me know if you have any questions! The Grow After I ordered the box, it was time to get some seeds. I opted to go with 4 femmed seeds from a local shop. Went there, and came out with AK-47, Amnesia Haze, Northern Lights and Dream. My first mistake is not labeling the packages they came in, so after picking them... I have no idea which bag has which seed-not making that mistake again. My germination process consists of putting the four seeds in Nestle Pure Life (based upon what they said the pH of the water was I thought it was a good idea) water and storing them in a cabinet above my stove. After 24 hours, I took them out, soaked some paper towel (squeezed out most of the Nestle water) and placed the seeds in the paper towel, placed them in a ziplock bag and put them back up above the stove for another 72 hours. By this time all of the seeds have sprouted, so I soaked the rockwool in tap water (pH of 6.4) for 2 hours, then added one seed per rockwool. Since they were damp, I placed a plastic tray under the rockwool before placing them back above the stove. My next mistake was when the first sprout came through the top of the rockwool. I didn’t know about protective casing, and I thought the plant was growing upside down. I tried removing the new growth from the rockwool to flip it, but in the process the new sprout tore... I tried taping and putting it back with the others. Within three days, all the plants sprouted, and they all had the protective casing- another mistake that will not be made. I left the seeds as they were above the light for 5 days, feeding them every other day with Nestle water. From there I placed the small rockwool with the seedlings into the larger 5" rockwool, and placed the larger rockwool into its forever home within the mesh pots in the grow box. I watered the entire rockwool. The light schedule was 18/6, and I was watering using RO water for the first week-no nutes, non pHd- no adverse affects but I would most likely pH the water next time around. I put the plant that I cut, hoping it was just stunted and would pull through. A day after I put the rockwool in the box, one of my more stretched plants was having difficulty staying up. I tried to support him with a souvlaki stick- successfully. Within three days of putting the seedlings into the box, they have developed some leaves (1st set), though the protective casing is still stuck on. Within six days from moving to their new home, they have nearly shed the protective casing, and have the second set of leaves growing in, although the casing is still there... I decided to intervene and physically removed the casing myself, being as gentle as I could be. Anyways, I finished my grow and have been searching for seeds for some time, and when I came across Seedsman I felt like a child at a candy store. I continually added and added and then removed strains. I finally decided to pick randomly at what to keep and ended up getting: 10x Peyote Gorilla Fem, 5x Cookies Chill CBD, 3X Gelat.OG auto, 5x Zkittlez Auto, and 5x Purple Kush CBD Auto. Has anyone tried growing any of these? I’m really excited, and hope to do some group grows
  3. Five things you may need to know: 1. Output voltage: Usually, the ballast has four dimming output: 1100W, 1000W, 750W and 600W. It’s better we can adjust higher than the rated voltage under some specific scenario. 2. Power factor: should be higher than 0.97, the higher the better, however, it’s impossible to equal or be greater than 1. 3. Case temperature: should not exceed 50°C. 4. Voltage drop range when starting: 5000-6000V. 5. Launch time: 3-5mins, the shorter the better, if it's less than 3mins, it will provide high initial voltage which may shorten ballast lifespan.
  4. casey jones

    Hi all, ive attached some photos of some yellow leaves I’m experiencing on some casey jones.. the photos aren’t great but hopefully you can see the issue. Hoping to fix the sick plant before she goes into flowering. All the other ladies are absolutely fine, under pretty much the exact same conditions. Any advice would be helpful.
  5. Hello and welcome to my Humboldt Seeds tester dairy It feels great to finally get this up and running, looks like I'll be the first to kick things off. Genetics: Humboldt Seeds Platinum Yeti Sour 76 Lighting: Migro 200 for veg. Migro 600 for flower. Growing Method: Hydroponics DWC + Aeroponics 4 x 20 litre buckets + 4 inch net pots. Nutrients: General Hydroponics Flora series Additives: Diamond Nectar B52 URB Natural PK 13/14 Cal Mag Grow Room: 4x4 Homebox Evolution Tent. Cheap 4 inch inline fan + passive 4 inch intake. Hydro-X controller - Just being used to monitor temps and humidity for now. Hailea 4 outlet air pump - need the upgrade this to a larger pump. Two monkey fans. Bluelab PH pen + Bluelab EC Truncheon Cheap reverse osmosis system with 60 litre reservoir. Aeroponics System: Diy Aeroponics 6 six site system. The seeds will be taken from the wet paper towels and put into 1 inch rockwool cubes then put into this system with 3 inch net pots and clay pebbles, They will spend a few weeks in here and I will flip them in this system to determine sex before revegging and putting them into the DWC buckets And finally this is where we are at now, 3 seeds of each strain have been soaking in straight tap water not ph'd for the last 20 hours, after 24 hours in the water they will go into paper towels with just tap water I know it's total bs but I tried to sex the seeds based on characteristics, we will see how that one pans out Thanks for dropping by I'm looking forward to seeing everyone else's grow dairies and having some fun in this section. Peace out.
  6. I am growing 4 plants in a Wilma using hydroton.. I had some issues at the start but seem to have got through it.. The problem I have is one plant is looking ready to start flushing (70% of the pistils are red) but the other 3 plants are still all white and look 2/3 wks behind. Do I take that 1 plant off of the Wilma to flush manually or leave it while the others catch up? What's best for the crop, I don't want to ruin it. Any advice would be a great help. Thanks
  7. Hi all, I'm a complete noob to all this and need to get some decent advice before I get things going as the seeds have arrived!! I have very little space to play with which meant I got a 75x75x200 (WxDxH) tent, 450w LED light, carbon filter/extraction fan, a 65x65 wilma with 4 x 11ltr pots.. I have a bunch of extras like oxygen pump, heater (as the tent is in a shed, a concrete shed but a shed all the same), oscillating fan etc. This will be my first grow ever and the advice I get seems to change often, I've been reading this forum and everyone seems happy to help so here are my questions.. I was told to use 1" rockwool starter cubes, move them to 4" cubes once ready and then the 4" cubes into the 11ltr pot filled with clay pebbles.. Is this a good way to go as some people are telling me not to put rockwool in with clay pebbles? If I do stick with this medium setup do I drip feed or flood as rockwool and clay seem to prefer the opposite method? I appreciate there is no real set watering schedule but if i am going with rockwool held in clay pebbles can anyone give me a good starting point for the number / duration of feedings the plant should have? i can dial it in from there. I will be on an 18 on 6 off light schedule (maybe 19:5 just to test it) and was told not to feed during the dark period. I think i have the EC / PH / reservoir cleaning all down and i will pull back on the nutrient dosage to around 1/4 of recommended as I am growing autos and that seems to be common advice from everyone. Any tips / advice you can offer would be really appreciated Let me know if any of you need more info on my setup before offering up ideas.Thanks
  8. Hi guys hope you all are well. Newbie here in need of some help ASAP that will be greatly appreciated. Here is my life story don’t know how much info to give so I’m giving pretty much all. I have grew a couple of times in the past on very small budget this time around I have invested well over a grand and want to get a big a yield as possible. I have 4 recirculating dwc 33litre pots. I have had all cuttings in a week 3 bubba island Kush cuttings that we’re about 150mm high before moving into pots. 1 blueberry og cutting that was very small but rooted about 70mm before moving. 2 600w hps omega dual specdrum bulbs about 300mm above plants. 5m2 room with milar film all around. 8 inch phresh hyper silent fan and 8 inch mountain air filter (awesome bit of kit) water temp is around 20* ec is 1.5 (it was at 1.0 but was told to up it with leaves being light coloured) ph 6.3 First problem is leaves are drooping on all 4 plants, I was told by an expert to keep them above the pots they’re currently about 1inch above, will I drop them to 1 inch below? The roots are flurishing on all 4 and dropped well into water. the smaller blueberry og has barely grew at all and is very pale don’t know what to do with this? how often am I meant to drain the water and refill with nutes? Sorry I am struggling to put any pics to this site on a mobile is it possible on an iPhone XS Max? thanks in advance.
  9. 5c1a222b69b53-pre99bb.jpg

    From the album Pre 99 big bud

    day 4
  10. Hi all, I'm a complete noob to all this and need to get some decent advice before I get things going as the seeds have arrived!! I have very little space to play with which meant I got a 75x75x200 (WxDxH) tent, 450w LED light, carbon filter/extraction fan, a 65x65 wilma with 4 x 11ltr pots.. I have a bunch of extras like oxygen pump, heater (as the tent is in a shed, a concrete shed but a shed all the same), oscillating fan etc. This will be my first grow ever and the advice I get seems to change often, I've been reading this forum and everyone seems happy to help so here are my questions.. I was told to use 1" rockwool starter cubes, move them to 4" cubes once ready and then the 4" cubes into the 11ltr pot filled with clay pebbles.. Is this a good way to go as some people are telling me not to put rockwool in with clay pebbles? If I do stick with this medium setup do I drip feed or flood as rockwool and clay seem to prefer the opposite method? I appreciate there is no real set watering schedule but if i am going with rockwool held in clay pebbles can anyone give me a good starting point for the number / duration of feedings the plant should have? i can dial it in from there. I will be on an 18 on 6 off light schedule (maybe 19:5 just to test it) and was told not to feed during the dark period. I think i have the EC / PH / reservoir cleaning all down and i will pull back on the nutrient dosage to around 1/4 of recommended as I am growing autos and that seems to be common advice from everyone. Any tips / advice you can offer would be really appreciated Let me know if any of you need more info on my setup before offering up ideas.Thanks
  11. Hi buds. I'm posting this here as well as on my diary. I've already started with the 18/6 lighting cause the sprouts popped out and added the nutrients. However, I'm having a hard time setting the environment. My main problems are: 1. The 400w HPS bulb is hanging few inches from the top of the tent and I'm still getting a minimum of 28.8 C (in the picture I'd just switched the light on). Too hot :/ 2. RH has gone from 60-70%, which I considered ideal, to 40% with the lights on. Not looking good. 3. Water temperature is also a problem, even with bottles filled with ice the minimum I get is 21 degrees, and just for a couple hours. 4. I removed the air pump because of the noise and ordered a new one that's supposed to arrive on Monday. Not that it worries me too much because roots didn't reach water yet. All in all, I don't expect much from my first grow, as I understand hydroponics requires more experience and I'm a complete newbie. However, I would like to get tips from experienced growers and learn from my mistakes. Cheers buds!
  12. I'm hoping you can help me. I'm trying to decide the best system for me and am stuck. I definitely want to go hydro having only ever done soil before. I've got a 1.2m x 2.4 tent and intitally I had thought autopot would be the way to go but after lots of research I'm leaning towards either 4 of the Oxypot XL (2 in each half of the tent) or going for a 4 pot R-DWC system (although there is the temptation to go for the 8 pot version and take some pots out if it' s too much?). I'm looking at getting either of these set ups from growell as I've got all my other bits there. The guy at the shop has suggested the 4 pot R-DWC system and the only thing that' s making me think twice is that the pots are 19litre oxypots. Compared with the Oxypot XL which has a 70 litre tank/pot, it seems small. I will be most likely sticking to 4 plants with a small possbility of doing a maximum of 8. I guess my natural instinct is with the 19 litre pots on the R-DWC I may need to do about 6 plants in my grow space and if i tried to scrog it with only 4 19litre pots, it would take ages? So would need the extra 2 pots to speed things up. Is this about right? Whereas I'm imagining with the 4 Oxypot XLs, the plants would be able to grow bigger roots and therefore get better yield and quality. It' s obviously a bit of a pain in the a** to fill up the 4 oxypot chambers instead of the 1 reservoir but I'm imagining it not being too difficult if I've cleared the lower branches as I could just get under my net to get access. 1 other issue regarding the Oxypot XLs is I'm not sure how to flush them weekly. Do i just get a pump and a bucket and access one of the sides of the pot? Is this quick and easy? I'm reasonably confident of controlling the environment and will buy a nutrient chiller. I've looked at the hailea models which look good. I believe they can be used in either a reservoir or with the 4 oxypot XLs? And also will need a nutrient heater/s. On a slight tangent, I've already ordered the autopot system from a shop but I haven't picked it up yet so I'll need to be relatively quick as I want to exchange it. On another slight tangent, I've also thought of the potential to connect the 4 oxypot XLs And turn it into a big R-DWC system? But I'm not that handy, although I do have a toolbox so may need help from my brother if it went that route. And I don't want to mess it up. Anyway guys, that's enough. I know some of the questions may be a bit noob but I don't want to buy the wrong system (which I think I already did with the autopot). Thanks,
  13. Hi folks- it's been a while since I posted last..was looking for some advice.. has anyone used a bluelabs dosetronic system? I'm getting one as I need to go away and leave my grow from time to time and the hassles of getting someone to look after my girls vs an automated system has finally made it worth while. I'm just wondering wether to get a solenoid system or paying the extra for a peridoser kit... I have 24 plants growing in three flood n drain trays so I'd come in as a 'hobby grower' but would rather pay the extra if it meant more reliability. Thanks in advance for any advice - cheers peers x
  14. So here maybe a new idea for you all. ive come across something called the Kratky method. A hydroponics system with is just a bucket filled with water and a basket In the lid filled with perlite. Plant in the middle add nutes to water and grow outside. And it works! People have mentioned that stem rot and things would be likely but from what I’ve seen it works amazing and the buds come out beautiful. gas anyone else done this or is it just a lucky break he had? Also thing for Guerilla Growing purposes it’s amazing. Hang a bucket in a tree with an auto.
  15. Hi all, I am new the the growing scene and am looking at a maybe a 3ft x 3ft x 6ft apollo grow tent with a mars hydro 600w led light hydroponic system. Would the led light produce the heat for the plants? What else do you suggest I go for as I haven't decided. This will.be my first grow, the easiest place for me to grow would be outside in my barn so I am concerned about the temp going down during the night. Any feedback is appreciated! Thanks Also how many plants do you think I could fit into that size tent?
  16. Hello again guys !!! Just been out and bought a Wilma 4 pot system Just need some help on how to use it do i need it on a timer if so on what times or does the pump do it itself on a schedule ?? if i had nutes to the 30 liter tank with the correct ph how do i water them without the nutes by hand or shall i just use a small amounts of nutes in the tank and let it do its thing?? just dont want to over feed or give them to put fluids thanks in advance
  17. Hey all, assuming clones from a soil based mother, lets say ... 20cm sprout length, that will be put into root riot blocks, expected to be in immediate flower period (Is this optimal?) what is the perfect distance between each plant? I am currently using ... 175mm but would love a pro input
  18. Hi and welcome. Since the seeds are popping up to say hello it is time to get the diary started. I have two Wilma systems, identical ones, 4 pot 11 litres using clay pebbles - side by side. Total of 8 pots. Each pot is covered with a see through plastic dome propagator I got from Homebase, 3 for £6.99. There are 4 Killer Kush, 4 Sweet Trainwreck and then 2 Sweet Cheese I have just added into the pots of the two smallest/latest germinating Killer Kush seedlings. Lighting is a 125w CFL 6400k Blue light for the first 2 days and I have now put them in their own big pots in the main tent so added in my dimmable ballast which is set to 400w, shall up this in a week or two when the seedlings are bigger. Nutrients in the 30 litre tank is as follows : 50mil A and 50 Mil B Canna Veg, 60 mil ATA Root Stim, 30mil ATAZYME. Same nutrients in each tank. My cheapo pH pen seems to have failed so should have delivered in 2 days a proper BlueLab pH Pen, it has set me back £75 so it better be good ! In the meantime I am unsure what the pH of the nutrient solution is. A couple of pics, today is day 3. The Setup Killer Kush & Sweet Cheese Day 3 Lazy Killer Kush (day zero for her still) & Sweet Cheese Day 3
  19. Hey all new to the forum do not want to get in trouble for double posting but I think I just posted my help question in the wrong topic, As topic says a generic question about water; original thread is here: http://www.uk420.com/boards/index.php?showtopic=360067 If your an op or admin could you move my other thread if its in the wrong place cheers -- Mojo
  20. So I'am growing in NFT. Girls are of Blue Cheese strain.this is my second grow, and I'm facing problems again at about the same time as the first time. At the start of fourth week of 12/12. This is how my nft tank looks like from the side: Before going to 12/12 mode I have read a lot in forums about Vitalink MAX and was told those are good nutrients. But their Buddy addative for bloom/flowering is not as good, so people use something else for it. But other then that all the other nutes by vitalink are good. I went to a local hydroponics shop to consult, and actually got a different A and B all together, because I think a shop owner did not understand what I actually needed, but I thought I will give it a try, as its specifically designed to be used by growers of my local area, because of tap water specifics, I suppose. It is called: Ferro essex hydro garden A and B bloom, base nutrients. So I started my 12/12 using this A and B base nutes with other remaining Vitalink addatives like Vitalink biopac, bioplus and fulvic. I also use GEN silicone, almost forgot, and plagron universal green sensation booster for blooming/flowering since vitalink buddy is no good. So it turned to week 3 and a half of 12/12 and I asked a friend to cover me for few days. He forgot to switch on the water pump for like 14 hours after lowering down ph levels, which I try to keep to 5.7. And my EC was about 1.3 during third week of 12/12. Obvously the first row of my plants dropped dead because of drought. They eventually recovered when they got back their water and nutrient supply, but the lower part of leaves decided to pass away indefinatelly. After that horrible period, I found out that temperatures were also not as pleasant 34 celcium at the highest peak during that same day of 12 hours of light period. So girls must of suffered "double penetration". The second day after water pump incident, temperatures peaked as high again, plus the temperatures in the tank medium were also very high, 27 celcium the highest. So afterwards, I started to notice many problems straight away. Pictures just for you, guys: I've fixed my faulty air movement system eventually, and now temperetures stays at 28 celcium the most. I use frozen water bottles to chill the water inside the tank. from 21 to 23 celcium. I also use two CO2 buckets with tubes through the fan to get that extra boost for my girls, forgot to mention. Obvously its a third week of 12/12 so I decided its time for some major leaf trimming. It was exactly after all these problems I've faced. So I cut down all the lower leaves and useless branches that wont get exposed to the maximum light in their entire lifes. (the picture of my setup is done after the trimming) Many of those leaves with these problems went away as well and I took pictures on a normal light on my table just to show you guys and get some help. Here they are: Notice. 1,2,3 are the numbers for those three different types of leave problems I've noticed, one looks like heat burn, and the other two, I cant recon. One of them are redish spots near the sides and tips and the other are discoloration and curling of sides that spreads to entire leaf. I left couple of these effected leaves on my babes, they were 90% healthy, so I though they still gonna do some good for the plants development. Now couple of days have pasted, and I can see that these three types of problems keep spreading to the uneffected leaves. Here are the images taken yesterday: the first: the second: the third: Now... There are still about 80% of leaves that seem to be healthy, but I can see it continues spreading. I hope it is possible to recover. I hope there are some of you who could really help me to detect what is going on here, so I could do big prevention step. I've posted other topics with some of these pictures, I was told its mostly nute and heat burns. Heat is not an issue anymore and plus that yellowing was accuring not on the longest plants and it still keeps spreading. I keep my nutes at 1.5, 1.6 EC now. Through all this dissasterous period my EC was from 1.3 to what is now, So how could it be nute burn? Some keep EC at 1.8 during the third/fourth week of 12/12. I've also explained my nutritional recipe. Which could be wrong using one base with another brand nutrients, and yet another flowering addative. What should I do in this case? Flush, and then start Vitalink Max A and B with the rest of vitalink as I've should of from the beginning? Would that do any harm? Or is it safe?how long should I flush it and so on? I would still use another brand for flowering of course, because VITALINK BUDDY is crap as I've mentioned. So many questions, but yet no answers.I count on you bros!
  21. Hello fellow uk420 crew I am glad to be aboard. I was hoping for some advice from seasoned hempy growers that would be fantastico. Ok my plan is to do a hempy style using perlite in the res just above the drainage hole and the rest coco. Maybe 50/50 mix up to half way then the rest coco not decided yet. My question is I have read from hempy that you feed full strength nutes from the very beginning? I cannot get my head around this how can you give such young plants full strength nutes and not burn them? I have always been taught to start off light and work up when the plant is strong enough to handle it. This goes against everything I have known for so many years so it is a difficult transition to go straight in with full strength nutes. Has anyone taking the plunge and gone full strength from the start? If so what was the results?