Hey everyone, Welcome to our organic soil Vs Hydro Vs Coco comparison grow dairy. From left to right we have organic soil, RDWC system and Coco, these have transplanted almost three weeks now. The plants used for the comparison are all cuttings from the same mother plant which is cayenne pepper. The three tents are 4ft x 2ft (120cm x 60cm) The lighting for each tent is our ARAY 4 - 250w fixture. https://migrolight.com/collections/all/products/migro-aray-4-140w-265w# The plants grown in organic soil and coco are both in 38 litre aeropots. The RDWC system is the older four bucket system from AlienHydroponics which we made into a two bucket system to fit into the grow tent, the system is 165 litres. https://www.alienhydroponics.co.uk/ The organic soil mix is made up of 40% Promix, 40% good quality compost and 10% perlite, the compost has well rotted horse manure added along with worm castings and mushroom compost. We will be using the Biobizz organic nutrient line in the organic soil setup along with Biosys microbial tea, the nutrients will be given only when needed and the microbial tea will be added once a week. For the RDWC system we will be using the full range of hydroponics nutrients by Shogun Fertilisers. And for the Coco setup we will also be using the full range of coco nutrients by Shogun Fertilisers. https://www.shogunfertilisers.com/en/ The three ARAY 4 fixtures are daisy chained together for dimming so light output for each tent in the same and we’re using the Inkbird controllers to control the exhaust fans. https://migrolight.com/collections/all/products/inkbird-grow-room-temperature-fan-heater-controller-itc-308-uk-and-eu-versions-only# Organic Soil We had some minor issues with overwatering at the start but these have now bounced back to health. Hydro - RDWC These were a little slow taking off and were top fed for the first week until the roots dropped down into the nutrients solution, they seem to be catching up now. Coco These plants have been really going for it since the moment we transplanted them into the coco, these are by far the biggest plants at the moment. We will be doing a weekly update on this comparison grow, we welcome all your comments and any advice you guys may have regarding this. Thanks for dropping by.

Morning gents, Having a think about sealing my grow space and injecting co2 into the area to improve growth and yield Grow space is approx. 2m x 2m x 1.8m Question: How many KG of CO2 is likely to be needed per week to keep room at desired ppm concentration? (1200 -1600ppm) My lights are more than enough to give the higher ppfd levels required Obviously air from outside the grow room will be pumped in via the air stones which will carry oxygen and the plants will also produce oxygen so the CO2 PPM will be constantly diluted. Also Any recommendations for an all in one monitor / controller that will meter the correct amount of CO2 to maintain concentrations at desired level. Thanks in advance for any help / advice

I haven't actually seen much on the site about bioponics so here goes fuck all. Bioponics (BP) is a blanket term for a number of organic, hydroponic based growing systems. For the purpose of this post, I'm sticking to the method I used on some maskotka tomatoes. In normal hydroponics (NH), nutrients are in an available form that the plant can use without any intermediates. In BP, as with any organic method of growing - nutrients have not undergone processes which make them immediately available. In soil organic growing, these unprocessed solutions enter the growing substrate and are met with a carefully curated force of bacteria and fungi which mercilessly break down substances into their available forms. So how do you replicate this stage in the process without a growing medium? A biofilter (BF). Which is actually a fairly poorly chosen name for what it is; it doesn't actually filter out anything as the name suggests. I have seen people trying to use synthetic materials like chopped up door mats to "filter" the solution due to this description. A more accurate description would be a "digestion substrate" but I'm not going to confuse anyone by slinging new words into the mix. A BF is as simple as this: a natural substance which bacteria and fungi can form a home in through which the undigested nutrient solution is continually fed through and drained back into the reservoir. This performs the first and most obvious task of feeding the microbes the nutrient solution to be broken down but also aerates the solution (you're still going to need an air stone in your reservoir). This can be as simple as a 5L bucket with lid (don't go any smaller) with holes at the bottom and a med-low micron gauze bag lining the bucket (most mid range bubble bags can be recycled to perform this task) to prevent the substrate from falling through. For the substrate, you would be safest starting with PH adjusted (organic adjusted) coco which you can inoculate with trichoderma (G.O. do a fantastic little culture called BM that is perfect for coco). Much like a sourdough starter, this filter will improve with time if you look after it. Initially, I was discouraged by nutrient deficiencies galore because I hadn't given it enough time to digest nutrients prior to the tomatoes first feed. Equally, if you set this going too early, you will find you will have to change your water more often than you like. However, if you take care of your filter by replacing the water before it goes bad, you won't have to change out your filter (although it's not the end of the world if you do - just a little lost time). At this point I'll mention: - the pump feeding into the BF absolutely has to be on 24/7, passing the solution through once will not break it down completely, it has to go through as much as possible. Also, try smelling your BF when it's gone dry... - place your BF directly over your reservoir and let it drain in slowly - too quick and you will flush the substrate - aeration will determine how long you can keep your nutrient water for (and whether it works full stop - I use a small wave emitter too) - make sure the entire substrate in the BF is getting soaked - when drilling holes in the BF bucket lid for the input - make sure there isn't light getting in - DON'T POUR THE UNDIGESTED SOLUTION DIRECTLY INTO THE RESERVOIR FIRST. Pour (slowly) through the filter to begin with, as it will catch the chunkiest parts of the nutrient solution to save the life of your pump In terms of nutrients, there isn't much around formulated for BP and you will often see people wailing about how it goes off quickly, or is full of chunks or how they have to use double doses. It's organic, so naturally it will go off quicker than synthetics. It's full of chunks? FUCKING GOOD. LOVE THEM CHUNKY BITS. They get trapped in the BF until they are broken down which is more efficient than being cycled through 1000 times. Finally, if you find you're having to use double doses, there's something wrong with your BF as it's not breaking things down efficiently. Don't be frightened by bad reviews. Personally, I favour the G.O. bio thrive line, and the rest of their Terra Aquatica supplements. They are specifically formulated for use with BFs. I have had little success with other brands. G.O.'s line tend to stay stable for longer (don't start smelling like the fetid love slot of a yeti on day three) and work well with the culture I mentioned before. Now, I've spent a year or two perfecting the process and have found that the smallest changes in the inputs or the system itself will require re-tuning to work/be efficient. I've started using larger BFs, hollowing out pond filters instead of using buckets, different substrates etc with more success but it's taken many instances of saying "fuck KISS to death", many of which have ended in tears. Do not try this if you're not willing to experiment. Other than all the above, the process is pretty much the same as normal hydro and you can apply it to DWC, drippers (use an inline dripper filter) etc. I'd love to hear of any attempts made and will pass on more empirical knowledge to any intrepid bio-poneers. NERVOUS

ITS FINNALY HERE! The PAR+ Ultra LED grow lights are now available to order. Introducing the PAR+ LED ULTRA powered by Telos Mesh! Designed, manufactured an assembled in the UK by expert lighting technicians from the ground up, this LED grow light boasts unrivalled functionality and flexibility alongside an efficacy of 2.9 or 3.1 With a frame size of 100cm, the ULTRA LED can cover a legnth of up to 1.5m providing an exceptionally even distribution of photons over these footprints and helping growers to achieve perfectly uniform canopies, balanced flower production and excellent harvests. MADE IN BRITAIN Our uncompromising demand for the highest levels of quality and integrity have allowed us to achieve the Made In Britain accreditation mark. We're one of only a select few LED lighting brands who have received this mark and we're extremely proud to have achieved this. With the backing of this independent mark of provenance - which can only be achieved by passing rigorous criteria - you can be confident in both the build-quality and performance of the ULTRA. After all, only the highest quality LED grow lights can genuinely call themselves Made In Britain! Membership Number 3347. ALGORITHMICALLY SPACED SAMSUNG LEDS. The new ULTRA light engines. Each Light engine within the ULTRA range features 320 of the highest bin 'full spectrum' Samsung LM301H LEDs with a mix of 3000K/4000K diodes as well as 10 Samsung LM351H V2 660nm deep reds. This combination of mixed 'full spectrum' and deep red LEDs creates the perfect spectral balance and is guaranteed to provide better harvests than other recipes. Our PCBs are protected by a water-resistant conformal coating, improving LED resilience and allowing for easy cleaning. MESH DRIVER WITH BLUETOOTH CONTROL Working in partnership with Telos, we're excited to be the first third party LED grow light manufacturer to power our ULTRA LEDs with the innovative Mesh system. The Mesh drivers are a SELV certified power supply that operate at low voltage (48V), making them an incredibly safe choice for grow rooms and commercial applications alike. When used with the Telos mobile app, you'll have complete and secure control over your ULTRA LED fixtures from your fingertips; no expensive controllers, no masses of wiring - just simple and effective control. With the Telos app and Mesh driver system, you can dim either by selecting a percentage of total power or by choosing Precise PPF™ output, as well as creating custom lighting schedules, sunrise/sunset modes, independent groupings and 5-step manual touch overrides. FULLY MODULAR DESIGN Each ULTRA strip is fixed to a parallel rail system via an integrate ball-bearing slider and thumb screws, allowing you to easily reposition all light engines to any desired configuration and achieve the most optimal photon distribution for your shape/size grow space without any tools. The modular nature of our design also makes upgrading and expanding easy; each strip possesses a disconnectable waterproof connector and thumb screws so that the fixture can be disassembled with ease. WARRANTY INFORMATION We're so confident in the construction and component quality of our PAR+LED lights that we're backing it with a 5 year warranty and lifetime service guarantee. CLICK HERE TO FIND OUT MORE The ULTRA 320 LE The ULTRA 320 SE The ULTRA 640 LE The ULTRA 640 SE These are preorder for delivery 1st week of august. Were offering 10% off to uk420 members on preorders using code ULTRA10 Buy here. https://ledgrowlights.co.uk/collections/ultra-led

Hi Growmies I'm having a small panic about keeping my environment bang on and wanted to ask for your tuppeny bits! I've got 8 - 58L pots with healthy plants just at W4 flower - My temps are 27* and 20* and very stable - Im using the GAS enviro controller with the Revolution V2 8” - I’ve tried to drop my humidity to 50% using the GAS but it won’t seem to pull it down below 60% - I’ve checked all my settings and as it gets to 62-63 heater kicks in (dry air blower) and humidity rises… I’m a bit stumped! Could it be my outside tent humidity is just to high ? I’m using passive intake through two vents 400mmx300mm and have two clip fans blowing at them. I have good NAP on tent walls but not daft bowing - fan is set 30% min 70% max - if I go higher than that / worried it’ll suck itself into some sort of black hole implosion.. hope this is making perfect sense to someone ! Pd

Shogun Nutrients Now in Stock We're happy to announce we have the full range of Shogun nutrients in stock for next day delivery. https://ledgrowlights.co.uk/collections/shogun For new customers Code UK420 gets you 10% off. If you have made an order before please contact us so we can discuss getting you on our customer loyalty program. All products listed below for easy access. Shogun CalMag https://ledgrowlights.co.uk/products/shogun-calmag Shogun Dragon Force https://ledgrowlights.co.uk/products/shogun-dragon-force Shogun Geisha Foliar https://ledgrowlights.co.uk/products/shogun-geisha-foliar Shogun Katana Roots https://ledgrowlights.co.uk/products/shogun-katana-roots Shogun PK Warrior 9/18 https://ledgrowlights.co.uk/products/shogun-pk-warrior-9-18 Shogun Samurai Coco https://ledgrowlights.co.uk/products/shogun-samurai-coco Shogun Samurai Coco Multipack https://ledgrowlights.co.uk/products/shogun-samurai-multipack Shogun Samurai Hydro Bloom https://ledgrowlights.co.uk/products/shogun-samurai-hydro-bloom Shogun Samurai Hydro Grow https://ledgrowlights.co.uk/products/shogun-hydro-grow Shogun Samurai Terra Bloom https://ledgrowlights.co.uk/products/shogun-samurai-terra-bloom Shogun Samurai Terra Grow https://ledgrowlights.co.uk/products/shogun-samurai-terra-grow Shogun Silicon https://ledgrowlights.co.uk/products/shogun-silicon Shogun Start https://ledgrowlights.co.uk/products/shogun-start Shogun Sumo Active Boost https://ledgrowlights.co.uk/products/shogun-sumo-active-boost Shogun Sumo Boost https://ledgrowlights.co.uk/products/shogun-sumo-boost Shogun Zenzym https://ledgrowlights.co.uk/products/shogun-zenzym Thanks Adam

Canna Nutrients in stock now We're happy to announce we have the full range of canna nutrients in stock for next day delivery. https://ledgrowlights.co.uk/collections/canna for new customers Code UK420 gets you 10% off. If you have made an order before please contact us before so we can discuss getting you on our customer loyalty program. All products listed below for easy access . CANNA PK13/14 https://ledgrowlights.co.uk/collections/canna/products/canna-pk13-14 CANNA FLUSH https://ledgrowlights.co.uk/products/canna-flush-1 CANNAZYM https://ledgrowlights.co.uk/collections/canna/products/cannazyme CANNA START https://ledgrowlights.co.uk/products/canna-start CANNA CURE https://ledgrowlights.co.uk/products/canna-cure-1 CANNA RHIZOTONIC https://ledgrowlights.co.uk/products/rhizotonic CANNA CALMAG AGENT https://ledgrowlights.co.uk/products/canna-calmag-agent CANNA HYDRO FLORES A+B SET https://ledgrowlights.co.uk/products/canna-hydro-flores-a-b-set CANNA COCO A+B SET https://ledgrowlights.co.uk/products/canna-coco-a-b-set CANNA HYDRO VEGA A+B SET https://ledgrowlights.co.uk/products/canna-hydro-vega-hard-water-a-b CANNA TERRA VEGA https://ledgrowlights.co.uk/products/canna-terra-vega-a-b-set CANNA TERRA FLORES https://ledgrowlights.co.uk/products/canna-terra-flores CANNA AQUA VEGA A+B SET https://ledgrowlights.co.uk/products/canna-aqua-vega-a-b-set CANNA AQUA FLORES A+B SET https://ledgrowlights.co.uk/products/canna-aqua-flores-a-b-set CANNABOOST ACCELERATOR https://ledgrowlights.co.uk/products/cannaboost CANNA TERRA STARTER KIT https://ledgrowlights.co.uk/products/canna-terra-starter-kit CANNA COCO STARTER KIT https://ledgrowlights.co.uk/products/canna-coco-starter-kit Thanks Adam.

I just want to be clear with the title, hence the ultimatum, and really, I live chemical free, so if there is no awesome way to use hydroponics naturally, then i am sticking with soil, I still cling to the hope that there might be a good way, that's why i posted this, can it be done?

Hello all, I've currently got 2 monsters growing well in DWC. My current light is Viaspar 450w. As the plants exploded in growth quicker than expected in the late veg state, and are now in the early stages of blooming (flowering has started), I've upgraded to a bigger tent for both height, width, and climate control. The current (new) tent is 1000x1000x180. I purchased a new Marshydro TS1000 with the new tent. My big question is, should I change the lighting in the new tent to the TS1000 or keep growing this batch under the Viaspar 450 lights, as that is what they are used to. The current light distance is around 40cm and growth has stabilized. I don't want to shock them at this point with a 550w light spike if it will be a danger to them. Even if this new spectrum will be better for harvest. Does anyone know anything about switching lights at this stage? This is my first hydro grow and everything has gone great so far (except for the late veg growth spurt) and I don't want to fuck things up for them in the last stages Any input would be really appreciated!

Day 10 from first true leaves. Got a think different seed from 2 years ago, didn't expect it to grow as its old but it has. I've got it in a started plug from root it. It came out nicely and is now on the second week from first true leaves which showed up on the 1rst January. How is it doing? I'm using masterblend, calcium nitrate and magnesium sulphate and some benifcial bacteria Mycorrhizal inoculant. TNC Mycorr hydro is the name of it. It done wanders for my other herbs like basil In dwc. The roots have started growing very fast. Ph is at 5.9 at the moment. And around 1000 ppm but I do have a cheap tds metre so not sure on accuracy. My water is between 200 to 300 out of the tap. I leave it for 24 hours to evapourate most of the chlorine before I use it. I mix masterblend first then magnesium sulphate then calcium nitrate. My tent stays around 24°C Which I read maybe a little high but it is stable. I did have a very weak nutrient water at first, I'm now following the table I have put up which is grams per litre of water. I am using week 1 at the moment, sorry for my hand writing. Anyone see if I'm doing anything wrong or a better guide for masterblend for a grow such as this.

Got a think different seed from 2 years ago, didn't expect it to grow as its old but it has. I've got it in a started plug from root it. It came out nicely and is now on the second weed from first true leaves which showed up on the 1rst January. How is it doing? I'm using masterblend, calcium nitrate and magnesium sulphate and some benifcial bacteria Mycorrhizal inoculant. TNC Mycorr hydro is the name of it. It done wanders for my other herbs like basil In dwc. The roots have started growing very fast. Ph is at 5.9 at the moment. And around 1000 ppm but I do have a cheap tds metre so not sure on accuracy. My water is between 200 to 300 out of the tap. I leave it for 24 hours to evapourate most of the chlorine before I use it. I mix masterblend first then magnesium sulphate then calcium nitrate. My tent stays around 24°C Which I read maybe a little high but it is stable. The leaves are a little dipped at the ends and new leaves towards them stem is slightly pale but I did have a very weak nutrient water at first, I'm now following the table I have put up which is grams per litre of water. I am using week 1 at the moment, sorry for my hands writing. Anyone see if I'm doing anything wrong or a better guide for masterblend for a grow such as this.

Thinking about giving hydro a shot and I was looking at Hydrofarm/Waterfarm. My question is: In an indoor setting is there a need to regulate the temps in the res? And if so, how do you guys go about it in the simplest and most cost-effective way. I have an Inkbird already if that's any use. TIA Just to add, I can keep my ambient temps within the 23 - 25C range lights on and 19C lights off.

Hi all, Glad I found this site! I’m starting my first grow in a few weeks when rest of set up gets here. ive bought a complete wardrobe set up from Moxy Garden in the UK. Part lack of tools, lack of time and it looks the absolute nuts! i was planning on just 1 plant as tester but a friend who has quite a lot of experience said I could get maybe 4 in this space! I decided on 2 which will be in their own Aeros bubbler pots, no res or any recirculating as I don’t have the space inside the wardrobe. The measurements are... 76cm W x 52 D x 176 H. Height will be shorter when I put the rhino pro’s and Invisible sun LED265 in. I was looking at mainlining/manifolding as it looks the simplest and productive way. My question is I’m not sure if I have enough horizontal space for the plants to branch out using this method. im worried I’m going to start and train early and then realising I’ve fucked up later. I’m think I’m okay with height once I put a scrog in, just can’t quite grasp a sense of scale any advice is much appreciated. J

Hi new on here ,I’m using nft and Wilma in tent,my water is only prop 10 degrees,Iv heard people say don’t bother running at correct temp which I believe 20 degrees,Iv just bought water heater £15 it keeps heating up too 70 if left on then turns self off,which is too high,would it do any harm if put heater on electric timer?so heats up now and again,

When growing cannabis in hydro (RDWC), does it matter if the air temperature surround the leaves/stem/buds is high (e.g. 22-35 degrees C), if the roots are bathed in chilled water (at 19-20 degrees) constantly? I am starting a hydro attic grow soon, and my attic gets quite hot. However, I have a hydro water chiller that can keep the water at a constant temperature of my liking, and I have plenty of circulation fans. I can also, regularly mist the leaves of the plant if needed. However, is there any point at all in starting an attic grow if I can only control the temperature of the water reservoir?

Greetings all, So my grow-room re-build is almost complete...on to the next stage. I'm trying out an Intellidoser by Autogrow and will be using the Flora Gro trio by General Hydroponics. Has anyone here done this? I'm struggling with the "sequential dosiing instructions", and that's even before I have to tackle the proportions.... Hoping someone will see this :-)

Hi guys. growing in soil now for just about a year .1.2m tent 8 inch extraction Passive intake. . 600hps. Normally run 4 plants average between 10-14 oz with a 4/5 week veg. Not great numbers but the bud always seems good quality. Looking to go hydro to see if i can increase yield a bit . My environment seems decent. Average lights on around 25 lights off 17/18. Stay in scotland so very rarely outside temp is over 20. Looking at dwc single pots most likely have been speaking with @badbillybob and his info has been great. Is it possible to run dwc bubbler buckets and have good results with the chiller?. The recirc system i would need would be to expensive and building one will need to wait.

Hi everyone, I'm a new to hydro grower. Have a couple soil and coco grows before but am making the switch to hydro, hoping to pick up some tips here as I go. Thanks in advance.

So I’ve had half a dozen successful grows in an traditional Coco/Perlite (watered manual) I think i want to try Deep Water Culture Hydro. what kinda setup could I run in 60x60x140 tent at the minute I can get 2-3 10l fabric pots. would I be best with 5gallon bucket setups or like a 6 pots tray etc.. all a bit new for me...

I used to grow kale, spinach, cucumber, and tomatoes. And I thought the same principles would apply, so when Canada made it legal to grow four plants I was sold. I have a space, and odor constraint, and was not on RIU, or GC, so I was doing my own research, and ended up spending some money on BCNLs Roommate Hydro setup. About BCNLs Roommate The Roommate is the smallest growing box offered, measuring in at 28” Wide, 54.5” High, and 28” Deep (external measurements). I’m currently at work, so I will measure the internal compartments later. It comes with 4 air stones that are set up in a series-parallel configuration on the bottom of a 16L reservoir. A water pump also sits in the reservoir that pushes the water up to a feed line that has 4 drip line inserts. Each drip line will go into the rockwool that they provided as well as mesh pots, giving me the potential to grow four beauties (hopefully). They provide 12 1.5” rockwool, and 4” rockwool both branded Atami BCuzz Roxx. For lightning they provided MH and HPS 400W lights and ballast ( I could upgrade to :The RoomMate’s LED fixture has one panel with four Citizen COBs, 120-degree lenses and a HLG 185 Meanwell drivers. The unit will use roughly 225 watts as opposed to the 400 watt digital ballast. For an extra 600 CAD, could use some input on this upgrade). As far as air circulation, both the intake and exhaust fans are built in, and a carbon filter is included. The box comes preprogrammed for when to feed, and when to turn on/off lights. On my end all I had to do was program the time of day, and choose if I want 12/12 or 18/6 for lighting. They also provided 3 cycles worth of Holland Secret Future harvest nutrients (it comes with their silver package which means I also got carbo blast, and Super B+, and bud boom). They also included some root cloned, and a propagation dome (I believe that is what it’s called). There are other ads-ons like clip on fan, blue lab pH controller, LED option, T5 lighting for under the plants (also interested in this, hoping to get your input!), and a ventilation package. Note that they have modified these so they don’t plug into normal ac outlets. I will show you what I mean when I go to the box next. Hopefully I’m not missing anything, but let me know if you have any questions! The Grow After I ordered the box, it was time to get some seeds. I opted to go with 4 femmed seeds from a local shop. Went there, and came out with AK-47, Amnesia Haze, Northern Lights and Dream. My first mistake is not labeling the packages they came in, so after picking them... I have no idea which bag has which seed-not making that mistake again. My germination process consists of putting the four seeds in Nestle Pure Life (based upon what they said the pH of the water was I thought it was a good idea) water and storing them in a cabinet above my stove. After 24 hours, I took them out, soaked some paper towel (squeezed out most of the Nestle water) and placed the seeds in the paper towel, placed them in a ziplock bag and put them back up above the stove for another 72 hours. By this time all of the seeds have sprouted, so I soaked the rockwool in tap water (pH of 6.4) for 2 hours, then added one seed per rockwool. Since they were damp, I placed a plastic tray under the rockwool before placing them back above the stove. My next mistake was when the first sprout came through the top of the rockwool. I didn’t know about protective casing, and I thought the plant was growing upside down. I tried removing the new growth from the rockwool to flip it, but in the process the new sprout tore... I tried taping and putting it back with the others. Within three days, all the plants sprouted, and they all had the protective casing- another mistake that will not be made. I left the seeds as they were above the light for 5 days, feeding them every other day with Nestle water. From there I placed the small rockwool with the seedlings into the larger 5" rockwool, and placed the larger rockwool into its forever home within the mesh pots in the grow box. I watered the entire rockwool. The light schedule was 18/6, and I was watering using RO water for the first week-no nutes, non pHd- no adverse affects but I would most likely pH the water next time around. I put the plant that I cut, hoping it was just stunted and would pull through. A day after I put the rockwool in the box, one of my more stretched plants was having difficulty staying up. I tried to support him with a souvlaki stick- successfully. Within three days of putting the seedlings into the box, they have developed some leaves (1st set), though the protective casing is still stuck on. Within six days from moving to their new home, they have nearly shed the protective casing, and have the second set of leaves growing in, although the casing is still there... I decided to intervene and physically removed the casing myself, being as gentle as I could be. Anyways, I finished my grow and have been searching for seeds for some time, and when I came across Seedsman I felt like a child at a candy store. I continually added and added and then removed strains. I finally decided to pick randomly at what to keep and ended up getting: 10x Peyote Gorilla Fem, 5x Cookies Chill CBD, 3X Gelat.OG auto, 5x Zkittlez Auto, and 5x Purple Kush CBD Auto. Has anyone tried growing any of these? I’m really excited, and hope to do some group grows

Five things you may need to know: 1. Output voltage: Usually, the ballast has four dimming output: 1100W, 1000W, 750W and 600W. It’s better we can adjust higher than the rated voltage under some specific scenario. 2. Power factor: should be higher than 0.97, the higher the better, however, it’s impossible to equal or be greater than 1. 3. Case temperature: should not exceed 50°C. 4. Voltage drop range when starting: 5000-6000V. 5. Launch time: 3-5mins, the shorter the better, if it's less than 3mins, it will provide high initial voltage which may shorten ballast lifespan.

Hi all, ive attached some photos of some yellow leaves I’m experiencing on some casey jones.. the photos aren’t great but hopefully you can see the issue. Hoping to fix the sick plant before she goes into flowering. All the other ladies are absolutely fine, under pretty much the exact same conditions. Any advice would be helpful.