I've got two of these growing really well, after only 3.5 weeks from seed they were topped, tied and went into 12/12. They've now been 12/12 for 22 days, on flowering nutes but there's no sign of buds. Just wondering if there's an internal 'clock' which prevents flowering until they're a certain age? Cheers

Hi all, Hope all's well. My temps have been dropping to around 60f (56 some mornings when it's coldest for a couple of hours), i'm a week into flower, not seeing any deficiencies but not a great deal of stretch and not a huge amount of pre-flowering. Rectified it now as I've resorted to whacking heaters on full (christ my lecci bill!), but gradually insulating the room properly. Just wondering how much impact this may have down the line? Could I have limited the amount of flower formation and impacted yield? Thanks in advance!

The Dio-Tech offers several pre-programmed spectral outputs, which utilise light recipes tailored to provide your garden with the ultimate spectrum at every stage of the growth cycle, The first to market pre-programmed TRUE dual spectrum LED grow light. Vegative Growth - When your plants are in the vegetative growth cycle (18 hours of light/6 hours dark) – they need a much higher proportion of blue light to prevent excess lateral growth during this early period. Plants grown with blue light have shorter internodal spacing averaging more flowering sites and have thicker darker green leaves compared to plants grown with a high proportion of red light. Flowering - Once you switch your photoperiod to 12 hours light/12 hours dark – you have entered the flowering phase. This is where the flowering heads are formed and the plant begins to switch its focus away from growth and into flower formation. Red light encourages the plant to flower (or fruit) and it can greatly enhance the rate of photosynthesis in the plant, allowing the plant to use this extra energy in fruit formation. Chlorophyl is very efficient at absorbing and using red light. Your plant also uses a lot of blue light during this period in the same way as it does through the vegetative period, to enhance photosynthetic rate and to prevent excess lateral growth. Flowering With UVA/Far Red Infill Bars - Optimise your plants performance and yield throughout the flowering period with our unique UVA/Far Red Light Bars. Recent plant research states that expanding the spectrum of light outside of the “traditional” PAR range has significant effects on plant behaviour. Exposure to UVA can increase terpene, antioxidant, flavonoid, plant resin and vitamin production in your plant. Far Red stimulates a phenomenon called the Emmerson Effect – this is an increased rate of photosynthesis when plants are exposed to light of wavelength 680nm (Deep Red) and wavelength greater than 680nm (Far Red) simultaneously. This creates a higher photosynthetic rate that far exceeds the sum of the Deep and Far Red photosynthetic rates individually.

6 days into 12/12 and i am noticing loads of tiny little branches on the lower half of my plant. I tried keeping all secondary branches on the main trunk but the lowest 2 are now way below where i was expecting them to be. Would removing the little shoots this soon after the flip negatively affect the plant in any way? Removing as in pruning of the tertiary branch with its respective fan leaf at the base of the secondary branch that is still attached to the main trunk. Also, would the same apply to the removal of the lowest 2 secondary branches from the main trunk? or should i leave them? they were 2 thirds of the way up, but now 6 days into flower they are below half way. Here's some examples. Main branches on either side that are half way up, never made it past 2/3 of the way to the canopy, full of tertiary branching. Bending or LST is a little bit difficult as the plant is currently a short but wide ball of green (i may have overdone it on a spray that i dont know the ingredients of), wherever i tri to bend to i am bending against something, so i decided to reduce density by removing the little shits that are being atrophied by the second, but not sure i can do this this soon? I will appreciate any and all info

Not a hydro question, all mediums. Does anyone here stagger feeding phosphorus (p) and potassium (k) during the flowering stage, or is using a combined PK booster the general consensus? Not tried myself yet, but read cannabis plants prefer increased phosphorus in the early stage of flower, and then more potassium towards the end. I'm going to try it and see if it makes any difference with my current run, but wanted to hear from anyone who has hands on experience. My plan is to use an even NPK base line feed throughout, and peak the 3 at different stages. (veg, early flower, mid flower)

After looking about it seems a somewhat contentious subject, but when should you start the flowering day count? I have read that some seedbanks suggest beginning the count at the first sight of pistils, (not early sexing, actually at the flower head), and some from the day of light schedule change. But this could mean differences of 2 weeks or more depending on when the count starts. What do you guys do?

Hello All This morning I noticed some of the branches (on a plant I’ve had in the greenhouse and is in week 7 of flowering) has what looks like a bad case of stem rot where the branch meets the stem. Plant looked really healthy up until a couple of weeks ago when leaves started showing signs of stress. They went very pale/yellow and tips went brown. Figured it may be nute burn so flushed, but it has gone downhill rapidly since then. Trichomes still mostly clear so not keen on harvesting but I think it may be only option. Would love a second opinion! Pics below. Ps - Apologies if I’ve posted this in the wrong section or have somehow not followed forum guidelines - I’ve read the rules so I think I’m ok, but pls let me know if not.

Hi....relatively new grower here... I'm hoping that someone can help me figure out a problem I've had growing autos. Specifically, I've grown several autos but despite growing well in veg, the plants effectively 'stopped' mid-flower and did not fully mature. In addition, very little smell which seems to suggest that something was 'wrong' despite appearances. The bud was nowhere near the quality I'd expected although the overall volume of dried bud was good (appx 400g per plant). I've had this issue with several autos - it does not appear to be a one-off. I kept a grow diary with regular photos so can supply further details if required but here are the basic details of my most recent grow: Strain: Dutch Passion auto White Widow (also had the same issue with Dutch Passion auto orange bud). Growing environment: 1x1 metre area grow tent with oscillating fan & air extraction unit 11 Litre airpots Substrate: Canna Coco Pro Plus with appx 30% perlite added. Nutrients: Canna Coco A & B, Calmag, Rhizotonic, PK 13/14, Boost (all from the Canna range) Lights: 2 x SF-1000x Spider Farmer LED's (each @ 97 watts power draw) + 1x150watt HPS. Light schedule: 20/4 then 18/6 for the final 4 weeks. Water: RO water with calmag added to bring typical water ec to 0.4 (target) Watering schedule: twice daily after veg got underway and then three times daily when in flower. Always watered to at least 30% runoff minimum. Input EC and output EC checked at each watering. When in flower, typically flushed once per week as output EC tended to drift too high suggesting nutrient buildup within the coco. EC typically back within acceptable range (i.e. no more than +0.4 ec compared to input ec) after flush. Nutrient schedule: broadly in line with Canna recommended schedule. No major issues with leaf burn although a little leaf tip yellowing did occur. In general, I tended to go a little under the suggested Canna 'light' schedule ec values. Defoliation: minimal. LST: None - essentially left the plants to grow naturally. Temperature & humidity: typically 20 to 25C. Humidity in tent was usually around 40% during flowering. Problem description: Flowering started off as expected at approx 8 weeks after germination but did not mature as expected - no amber trichomes even after 17 weeks when I did the final cut. Some leaf yellowing did occur but regular inspection of trichomes suggested that plants were not developing as expected. One theory is that because the plant was relatively large, the nutrients supplied could not support the plant through to full maturity although this is little more than a guess. I got a big volume of bud off the plant (400 gram dry weight) but quality, as stated earlier, was very poor. Would have happily settled for a much lower yield but decent quality! I researched the requirements for growing autos and am reasonably confident that the overall growing environment was roughly 'correct'. No obvious signs of disease or pests. Can anybody suggest what my problem is? I'm sure if the growing environment were inherently poor then I would not have managed to grow the plants through veg stage and into flower. Thanks in anticipation!

Whilst I understand that it is pointless counting the days from the flip to 12/12 in order to guage when plants are ready to harvest as plants vary and seedbanks make ludicrous claims sometimes too. So which of these photos would you use as a base to begin counting "days in flower"? This was Day 9 following flipping to 12/12 Moving on This photo is 10 days older than the previous one, so Day 19 after the flip. Which one would you count as "flowering starts" or is the start of flowering somewhere between the two?

Im wondering if there is something non toxic I can use to control spider mites in late flower and that which would not harm the flower or diminish the taste something other than IPM since predatory mites are gamble and hard to get from where Im from. Im asking both for greenhouse and indoor (my go to alternative for indoor would be keeping it really clean and in low temps, but Im not sure if it would be enough) Outdoor better said greenhouse is more of a concern for me, Im not sure if oscillating fans would be enough since s.mites are called borg for a reason. I can use D. earth on around the roots and only feed from bottom but Im not sure if it would help anything since those mf are smart as fuck. In the pest I bring home little travelers from africa (bed bugs) they were pitta to get rid of but diatomaceous earth helped like nothing else. The reason why Im mentioning this is that I found a little bag of shroomie leftovers that got lost behind a cabined, those little critters were in it munching on it. I then realized that those motherfuckers go hard af evolving rapidly tripping on shroom probably plotting their new adventures and tactics Forgot to say, I know how painful is to lost plants before harvest because of pest problem. It hurt my heart badly and I stopped growing for many years afterwards. Still Im looking for a solution, I found one for grow but not yet for flowering Im wondering if essential oil blends like those from build a soil can harm the plant in late flower or mess up the actives like thc and cbd I would really appreciate your help with this

Hows it looking folks? 1st grow. Coco. 22L fabric pots. 1.5L water/feed (top fed) a day. Monster gorilla glue photo's, they are 8 days into flower. ~31C. ~50% r/h. Ive defoliated heavily over the past week as it was so rammed and thick with the supplemental colas which grew in addition to the ones I had planned.... which meant that the whole lot would have been compromised through not getting any light down the plant. And today ive bent over the higher ones to make the canopy more level. My light is a Maxibright daylight 480W pro LED @ 500mm. I thought they might be a bit pale green on top? any observations would be appreciated - everything seems to be in order other than the colour on top mysticriver

Hi guys, need some help/advice this my first time growing anything so been trying my best, had a bad start with these babies and tried to slowly help it get better unfortunately it hasn’t been so great, could you guys have a look and let me know what I can do to make sure the budsites I do have on my small auto will create some nice buds?, the plant is only about 12 inches tall, it’s in a plastic pot that has been terrible for letting soil dry out or receive enough oxygen. This has been a lesson learned for me as the soil I used (John innes no2) combined with the plastic 11litre pretty deep pot has been horrible and never dries out fast enough and had issues being always wet at bottom in the beginning , I believe I’m about 1 week in flower but I’m a total newbie so not sure exactly when it started,and help or advice appreciated and also let me know if the bid sites you do see would have some potential? My light is mars hydro ts1000 working at 150w 18inches above plant as it’s started it’s flowering, humidity 55%. Also about nutrients.. I’m using bio bizz nutrients... how much bloom, and grow do you guys suggest feeding my plant at this stage in the soil I’m using? Thanks for your time all

Dont know how to post photos, some help? the leaves show yelowness with brow spots, some leaves totally "burned" , some plants more than others. AMNESIA HAZE 7th week of flowering ( DAY 48 ) temp is 29•C/84.2•F by day - 23•C/73.4•F by night fluence LED 70cm from the top 98% power ( no purple seen in any stem, like luminic stress sympthom) tap current Water is EC 0.2 (tds500 is 100-ECx700 is 140)with temp 18.5 •C /65.3•F watering is: ride the ECEC 0.6 (ppm500TDS is 300)(ppmECx700 is 420) even for water irrigations only with CAL/MAG (up to 0.6) and PH (now 6.5) after nuts and adding BLOOM A/B water rise to EC 1.2 =(ppmTDS500 is 600) (ppmECx700 is 840) PH 6.5 (comes from veg 5.7/5.8 FLOWER 6/6.1/6.2...etc) 50% soil 50% coco humity is below 60% CO2 is 1500ppm today Extraction runs 15mins per 1 hour lowering CO2 to 470ppm (so air flow seems to work) 2 fans (ventilation not a issue) LAST EC MEASSURE/FLOOD from irrigation water full with A/B+ nuts EC 1.2 in 2 taller and 2 shorter plants result 1.3/1.4/1.6/1.6

Hello again everyone, I have a small issue once again . My grow tent started smelling a bit "damp" in the last few weeks ( 2-3 weeks, 1 week after flowering started ). I removed my humidifier, had another defoliation session and the smell has decreased decently. This made me think that is should change my airflow in the tent. I will send links as to how my oscillating fan is placed. I have it facing the right corner of my grow tent as i had some mild wind burn on some leaves during the veg period. Should i turn my fan in order for it to blow towards my stems and lower plant in general? I read online that another fan should be placed and blowing air over the top of the canopy. Is this true? Thanks! https://ibb.co/Fw5d9ws https://ibb.co/WKx5P8V

Hi guys!running 3 autoflower lost track of flower!but one plants seems to be maturing good!!and the other two I think one is doing okay and the other I don’t seem to notice the maturing of the buds any guess??also attached some photos of all three flowering sites please let me know if may just be younger stages of flower compared to main one using GHE 3 parts also atami bloombastic statin is lemonberry haze

Hi guys, Hope someone can help I flipped some bag seed GG4 X GSC which have unfortunately put out a few seeds themselves. Nothing too bad, they're continuing to fatten up and are hella frosty, but i'm seeing a seed or so on every other cola they're at day 42 and maybe 2 weeks from chop, i've just started flushing them. I've got two GMO's ready to flip and I want to put them in with the glookies now whilst they're finishing. I don't forsee the GMO's to have really started flowering after 14 days and expect them to be just finishing stretching when i come to chop the hermies - so how unadvisable is this? I don't see any naners so i don't see why there should be any pollen? And if they did put out any pollen would it have already happened by now? Will attach some pics. Pretty long winded and thanks in advance

I was wondering if somebody can tell me what's wrong with my plants, I am on week 10 super lemon haze auto GHS strain. Been feeding advanced nutrients under 2 x 600 watt, 8 x 12L fabric pots and one 15L autopot (just trying it out) Soil. Past few weeks they have been getting Bloom A and B 1.5ml per litre and last week switched from Big bud to Overdrive 1.5ml per litre aswell. So they're on: Cal-Mag 2.5ml per litre B-52 1.5ml per litre Bloom A n B 1.5ml per litre Overdrive 1.5ml per litre 3 fans plus extractor fan so plenty of airflow. 16/8 light cycle 55% humidity 30 degrees Celsius day temps The leaves at the top have turned yellow and crispy but the buds look and smell absolutely fine. I just want to know why leaves have turned yellow and crispy? Will the buds be fine after harvest? How do I avoid/fix this issue? Any help would be much appreciated, thanks in advance.

Alright people, I am 5 weeks into flower and all of the leaves are starting to go yellow, so I read online that it could be the salts building up in the medium and it could be 'nute locked' so I have started checking my ph now which I wasnt before and I yesterday I flushed the coco with of ph'd water ( with 2× the volume of the pot it is in) which I read online), but now im starting to think it is the pot size, I am using a 9 litre pot and my plant is just over 4 foot tall, I would upload some pics but it only gives the option for a url upload. I would appreciate any reply's Thanks